Today we're helping Desirae. She loves "heavy, opulent scents with plenty of cleavage and wiggle" — perfumes like Guerlain Shalimar and Mitsouko, and Rochas Femme. She needs a perfect perfume for hot, muggy summer days, but she tends to find light and cooling fragrances boring. She'd like our help in finding something appropriate that will hold her attention. She'd also like to keep the cost under $100, although she's willing buy decants if need be. Here is what she know about Desirae:
She's in her mid 20s and lives in Canada, where she works as an administrative assistant.
She loves retro things: furniture, clothes and ... perfume styles.
Desirae likes notes of civet, peach, vanilla (non-foody), leather, rose, jasmine if it isn't that terrible "air freshener" jasmine, tobacco and various spices. She also likes wood notes and maybe fig. Favorite perfumes, besides those mentioned above, include Jean Patou Joy and Tauer Perfumes Lonestar Memories.
Desirae doesn't like galbanum, violet, berries, heavy aldehydes, melon or aquatic notes. Certain kinds of patchouli or musk go sour on her skin. Perfumes she doesn't like include Chanel No. 5, Chanel No. 19, Chanel Cristalle and Estee Lauder White Linen. She found Frédéric Malle Parfum de Therese absolutely stomach turning.
Here is what Desirae has tried so far:
Estee Lauder Jasmine White Moss: sour and thin on her.
4711: refreshing but gone in three minutes.
Dior Eau Sauvage and Guerlain Vetiver: both seem too classically masculine.
Sonoma Scent Studio Fig Tree: she thought she didn't like fig, but she liked this one, so a summer appropriate fig might work.
What say you?
Note: image is Buzon-de-correos [cropped, doubled] by alicedice at flickr; some rights reserved.
You’d love Van Cleef & Arpels Gem. It’s d/c in in the US but still sold in France at all the perfumeries, and you can still get it on Ebay. The pre-reformulation is civet heavy, the reformulated version is still very much an old school chypre but with more of a vetiver in the base. I find the new version much more wearable, actually. The old version 90ml is in a gold refillable ‘wicker/lattice’ cutout pattern spray cannister, the new one is still a gold refillable cannister but the cut-out pattern is small stars.
EL Knowing is like a lighter Mitsouko, swapping out peach for orange blossom, so is Pierre Cardin Choc (unfortunately also seems to be France only, although dead cheap). Balenciaga Quadrille if you can find it, another light peachy chypre that’s very good.
Hmmm. The first to pop into my mind is Chinatown, though I don’t know if it can be found for $100 or less unless you go the decant route. But it is the definition of opulent to me with the peach, incense, wood and spices in abundance, and the lasting power and sillage are fantastic. It was my first niche love and is still in frequent rotation in my wardrobe. I also thought perhaps Songes (wonderfully lush jasmine in there grounded with a woody/vanilla base) and Piguit Bandit because of its smoke, leather and aldehyde combination. Also, Estee Lauder’s original Private Collection is a great take on green that smells more of moss and earth than fresh green leaves to me. These have great lasting power and sillage on my skin, and are pretty easy to find as well. Good luck and happy sniffing! 🙂
Ninfeo Mio by AG is a beautiful fig evolving into woody citrus. Otherwise, ELO’s Jasmin et Cigarettes might do the trick, and Yves Rocher’s Tendre Jasmin might be worth a sniff. Une Folie de Rose by Rosine is a retro chypre that Desirae might like.
If Eau Sauvage and Vetiver were too masculine then how about Diorella and Vetiver pour Elle (vetiver + jasmine)?
Futur is a really nice dewy green jasmine. Or Guerlain Chant d’Aromes for a peachy floral.
You might try picking up a sample of Ghost (2000). It’s hard for me to get in the US but it may be more available in Canada. I typically buy tester bottles of it from ebay. It’s a Vanilla Rose fragrance but you might find the vanilla a bit too sweet. It has decent lasting power and if you want more sillage, all you need to do is add an extra spray. Depending on the size and retailer, it should be right at-to well under your $100 max.
You might want to consider trying perfumes like Diorella or eventually Eau Sauvage Extreme (but of course you may find it to manly)
I would also suggest 1969 Parfum de Revolte by Histoires de Parfums. It has a gorgeous, yummy peach note and deep, rich chocolate aroma!
A couple of people have suggested Diorella, so that is for sure going on my to try list. Thanks!
What about 1969? Will you give it a try?
I’m pretty sure I have a sample of this one already – I will have to revisit.
I think Womanity is a terrific fig. You can layer it with a rose scent to add some vavoom. Atalier Cologne’s Ambre Nue manages to be complex and efferevescent, but unfortunately it is only available in large sizes. The Vanilla Insensee might work for you.
On a more retro note, have you tried Guerlain’s L’Heure Blue. It is complex, has a civet note, plus that Guerlain accord you seem to like.
What about Caron Tabac Blond (vintage). I got a sample the other day and it is absolutely gorgeous. The new formulation is fine, but doesn’t have the oomph of the vintage one. You can still find it on eBay, etc. I also recommend Annick Goutal Songes. It may not be a summer scent, but if you like the heavy floral of Jean Patou Joy, you might enjoy it.
I have been wanting to try Tabac Blonde for ages now, but with the news of the reformulation coupled with it’s scarcity (it’s an urn fragrance, right?) I sort of gave up hope. Do you have any tips for vintage hunting?
Being an antique dealer, I come across some when I go to antique and vintage markets, fairs, etc. When you find someone specialising in vintage perfumes in such places, make friends with them and ask them to let you know when they find one. Most dealers would be happy to oblige.
You can also get a sample of the vintage one from Surrender to Chance and ebay.
Ormonde Woman. Definitely.
Opulent, epic, bosom heaving WOMANLY scent. Woody. Potent. Long lasting. The Ormonde Jayne team suggest it as a summer fragrance. This is my número UNO choice for you!
Other than that, how about an animalic orange blossom with civet and oomph? Tauer’s Orange Star or Montale’s Fleur D’Oranger.
And for a spicy fragrance – try L’Artisan’s Piment Brulant. Black chocolate, chilli pepper and tomato leaf. Ah. May. Zing.
Ormonde Woman is stunning, and there’s nothing else like it. I think Eve could have smelled like this – or maybe I should stay Lilith! I had a sample that I used up happily but I admit I was thinking of it as a winter scent. Because of the fir/pine note, maybe? I also thought it was more expensive than it is – but I just checked and the 50 ml EDP is in the $120 range. This is a very real possibility.
I wear Ormonde Woman all year long, personally. And yes, I’ve never found anything else like it. In fact, I got it for Mother’s Day last year since they offer free worldwide shipping at this time of year. (Free shipping! Act now! How’s that for enabling? ;))
Okay, now you’ve done it. I was fine until the free shipping … I’ve ordered it.
I second the Tabac Blond recommendation as well as Private Collection and Knowing- oh and Youth Dew in the bath oil. I would add Ralph Lauren Safari (discontinued but still found online), Tauer L’air du desert Marocain, Mecca Balsam and SSS Tabac Aurea ( with a very light hand). Also, Eau de Guerlain- lasting power isn’t too bad for an eau.
Just a note on the Ghost recommended above- I live in the UK and kept going back and forth about buying a bottle but ultimately found it too sweet. It is quite nice though so I hope it works for you!. Btw, Shalimar is one of my desert-island fragrances. 🙂
Shalimar is what turned me into a fumehead. I knew perfume could be pretty but before trying Shalimar I didn’t know that it could be so INTERESTING. It was swoon at first sniff.
Maybe Diptyque Philosykos as a go-to fig and peachy-suede Daim Blonde (Lutens) as a lighter, summery leather, but my best recommendation would be to try Visa by Robert Piguet. It’s *updated retro*, peachy and full-bodied. I don’t know how it wears as a summer scent but it has a very upbeat, summery vibe. As a plus, the Piguet line seems well-priced for the quality.
I was going to suggest Daim Blond – really great and matches the notes she likes.
For retro chic, how about Anna Sui (“Sui Dreams”) in the turquoise bottle that looks like a little handbag? Also Nahema is a bittersweet Victorian rose, very turn-of-the-century.
For a non-foody vanilla, would recommend Diptyque Eau Duelle. Very similar to this is Atelier Cologne’s Vanille Insensee, though I think the vetiver at the end of that one turns a little sour on me. Donna Karan Black Cashmere is an easy incense to love. For a light, vanillic leather, L’artisan’s Traversee du Bosphore is wonderful, and wears well in warmer weather, as well as cold.
The description of your perfume style is virtually identical to mine, so I’ll give you what I wear in the heat (85 here today!): Guerlain Vol de Nuit (blooms beautifully in the heat), Chamade, Nahema, Samsara (preferably the older versions found on ebay), Jardin de Bagatelle, Jicky, Terracotta Voile d’Ete and Mahora. I’d also recommend Sonoma Scent Studio’s Champagne de Bois (I agree that her Fig Tree is the only fig I like!) and Chanel Cuir de Russie – I like the edt in the heat and the extrait in the winter.
Good luck and have fun!
I think we might be perfume twins – I’ve tried many of those and liked them. I have a Cuir de Russie decant and a vintage Samsara perfume – it never occured to me to wear either in the heat, but I will be trying them the next time a hot day rolls around.
If I can send you any samples, email me at rappleyea11 at yahoo dot com.
I’d recommend Jasmin et Cigarettes and Fils de Dieu from Etat Libre d’Orange. The former is a non-air-freshener Jasmine with tobacco, the latter a new take on Shalimar, with a vanilla/citrus/leather that manages to be sheer and ephemeral.
I’d also suggest Jardins de Kerylos, although it may be out of price range. Beautiful green fig with peach.
Jasmin et Cigarettes sounds interesting.
Boucheron Jaipur is a beautiful apricot scent. Very delicate fruity floral with a woodsy vanilla base. I find it to be quite elegant, soft spoken yet grounded. Wore it last weekend and got loads of compliments! Great all year round scent.
chiming in on Knowing – how about Shaal Nur by Etro? Incense combined with some elegant reminiscensing on the memory of orange peel.Not at all like Knowing, but somehow fitting none the less. (I wear them both, and Mitsouko, Femme and Shalimar (not all at once though 😉
I second Etro Shaal Nur. It’s an Oriental that works well in warm weather. Besides, it’s beautiful! 🙂
For opulence, and retro-appeal I would advise Tauer’s Un Rose Chypre.(pricey so maybe a decant) And, for a cool fragrance that is not BORING, try Aqua Allegoria, Herba Fresca. I agree that cool fragrances can be boring, but I like Herba Fresca and Hermes Sur Le Toit, ( although many perfumistas didn’t like the SlT). Also Prada’s Lieu Ambree is good for summer while still being fascinating, spicy and womanly. Hope you find something to hit the spot!
Oh, and you don’t get much more womanly than Comme de Garcons Daphne. The perfume world is split on it and sometimes I love it and other times can’t stand it; opulent, certainly, nearly overbearing. I think of it as the female counterpart of YSL’s M7, which I adore. Sometimes I like to wear both, as the oud gives them something in common, and they seem to balance each other out! (not a cooling frag though.)
Roberto Cavalli, YSL Belle D’Opium, Cartier Basier Vole (it smells much better than the written description)
bal a versailles by jean desprez lightly applied could work….
I’d say Yvresse (Champagne) YSL – a lovely peach/champagne cocktail; Elie Saab, a sparkling orange blossom; Orange Sanguine or one of the other Atelier colognes (I think they all have the same lovely woody musky drydown); or why not go classic with Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere? Still bosomy, but lighter. 🙂
I tend not to want perfume when I’m traveling in a new place. As a sensory-oriented person, absorbing the new smells is as much a part of a new place as well as the sights and sounds. If I’ve been there before, I have a pretty good sense of what I might be in the mood for when I’ve arrived and can bring it along.
Whoops! I absolutely thought I was in Angela’s new post, sorry!!
Not fair to do this, because of high price, but I suggest you read Angela’s review of Vero Profumo Rubj edp: (two words, famous by now: ravished ballerina.) https://nstperfume.com/2010/11/22/vero-profumo-rubj-fragrance-review/
Perfumes Desirae should try:
Chanel Coco
Thierry Mugler Womanity
Thierry Mugler Alien
Bvlgari Jasmin Noir
Lancome Tresor
Stella McCartney Stella
Hermes Kelly Caleche
Guerlain Samsara
Diptyque Philosykos
Cartier So Pretty – although, it is discountinued
Some more suggestions:
Estee Lauder Knowing
Estee Lauder Sensuous
Elie Saab Le Parfum
Prada L’Eau Ambree
Narciso Rodriguez For Her
Second Ormonde Jayne Woman and Guerlain Vetiver pour elle and Narciso Rodriguez For Her. You might also try NR Musc for her Intense (jasmine note in the latter). It’s light enough for summer, and the musk is soft and feminine.
With an eye toward summer:
Serge Lutens Daim Blonde – apricot, cardamom and suede
Guerlain Vol de Nuit – others have mentioned this; it does have galbanum but isn’t sour.
L’artisan Passage d’Enfer is really interesting – a light incense with lily. I’d own it but it disappears on me after 15 minutes oh sad.
Daim Blond – YES!
I would affirm several of the recomendations EL Knowing ,Sensuous,
Prada L’eau Ambree,
Coco,
Womanity,
Jasmine Noir
,Tresor(original NOT the two flankers -though the In love may be a remote chance)
Guerlain Samsara (richer than Sensuous)
And the D/C ed flankers Samsara Shine -samsara + fruit and
Un Air de Samsara -minty Samsara.
Other ones you may want to try
YSL Opium -new stuff is probably light enough for summertime
and Opium Pour Homme -nice tobbacco and mint +
Another Idea -Burberry Woman /or smellalike Fancy Love
sort of osmanthusy-peachy tea scent.
Also L-L.A.M.B.by Gwen Stefani/Maybe Baby by Benefit for a pear scent?
I adore Roberto Cavalli’s Oro as a transparent spice/incense scent for year round.
There’s also Barbara Bui Le Parfum .
I just wanted to thank everybody for all your great suggestions – I have a whole list of things to try now, and am quite excited.
In addition to SL Daim Blond, try AG Vetiver if you get a chance.
There is a very nice and inexpensive fig that Kevin reviewed, Buddha’s Fig, something like that. I got it on Amazon for a song.
Have you tried Fifi Chachnil? I think it blooms really nicely in the summer heat.
Adding in my favs since our likes are similar.
“heavy, opulent scents with plenty of cleavage and wiggle”
Jean Paul Gaultier’s Classique. Maybe the EDT would be light enough for the summer.
Jil Sander’s Sun. Vanilla, tonka, peach and orange. Can’t wait to wear mine again!
Lightly applied Givenchy’s Ange ou Demon might work for summer nights, vanilla, Brazillian rosewood, jasmine. Or Le Secret Elixir, lots of jasmine and vanilla, with almafi lemon and tea to give it a freshness for warm weather.
Another vote for Chamade and Womanity.
For cleavage I suggest Fracas.