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The Monday Mail ~ help Shelly find a new perfume

Posted by Robin on 23 April 2012 67 Comments

CorreosCorreos

Today we're helping Shelly. She's a school teacher, and she wants to find an everyday fragrance that appeals to adults more than 7 year olds, and that isn't so close to the skin that it doesn't get noticed. She can spend about $100. Here is what we know about Shelly:

She's 40-something, and lives and works in the San Francisco suburbs.

She has a large Bernese Mountain Dog and spends her weekends training her to pull a cart.

Shelly's current favorite is Chanel Cuir de Russie, but she says it never gets noticed. She would love to buy Cuir de Russie and Bois des Iles in a higher concentration but she can't. She also loves Guerlain Apres L'Ondee and Balenciaga Le Dix. Shelly also loves tea, but she's not sure if she loves it in perfume or not — L'Artisan's Tea for Two was too sweet and too smokey.

Shelly dislikes orange blossom and neroli.

Here are some of the fragrances she owns or has tried:

Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan: the kids noticed it but thought she smelled like brownies. She says that is not her goal and she is not a big fan of gourmands.

Caron Eau de Reglisse, Caron Parfum Sacré, L'Artisan Timbuktu: she owns them all, and likes them, but not everyday.

The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit & Bergamote: also a bit too expensive, and the Bergamote, while perfect for work, has poor staying power.

 What say you?

Note: image is Buzon-de-correos [cropped, doubled] by alicedice at flickr; some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: monday mail

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67 Comments

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  1. helenviolette says:
    23 April 2012 at 10:59 am

    hmmm- this one is a challenge! I think since she has access to San Francisco, she should visit the Ineke boutique- and also take a jaunt up to Healdsburg and visit Sonoma Scent studio- mainly because they both have notice-worthy perfumes at good price points. At SSS, I think she should try Champagne de Bois (the gamine country cousin of Boid des Iles).

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    • Abyss says:
      23 April 2012 at 11:54 am

      Seconding Champagne de Bois! I find it has more presence and tenacity than Bois des Îles and it’s so affordable that it’s a perfect candidate for an everyday scent.

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      • egabbert says:
        23 April 2012 at 3:14 pm

        Thirding Champagne de Bois! It will definitely get noticed and it’s affordable to boot.

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        • Rappleyea says:
          23 April 2012 at 3:28 pm

          And an enthusiastic fourth for Champagne de Bois! I’d also recommend the new SSS Nostalgie.

          If it makes you feel any better, I have Cuir de Russie in extrait and it is even more of a skin scent than the edt!

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        • shellyw says:
          23 April 2012 at 5:51 pm

          Affordable and a nice trip. Very interested.

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    • Julie says:
      23 April 2012 at 6:37 pm

      Sonoma Scent Studio doesn’t have a storefront. You can’t “go there”. waaaah!

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      • Rappleyea says:
        23 April 2012 at 10:07 pm

        I think if she emails Laurie, Laurie will let her visit the studio.

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  2. Ari says:
    23 April 2012 at 11:00 am

    Lonestar Memories ($105, but close enough)!

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    • shellyw says:
      23 April 2012 at 11:16 am

      I have not heard of that- I will look up where it might be in this area

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      • thegoddessrena says:
        23 April 2012 at 11:26 am

        Andy Tauer’s perfumes are not in wide distribution so you may need to order a sample from Luckyscent.com

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  3. thegoddessrena says:
    23 April 2012 at 11:04 am

    Cuir Ottoman from Parfums d’Empire is what came to mind immediately and possibly also Jolie Madame from Balmain

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    • kristens says:
      23 April 2012 at 11:08 am

      Jinx :D

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    • shellyw says:
      23 April 2012 at 11:17 am

      I love the leather note and am happy to have a new one to try

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  4. kp says:
    23 April 2012 at 11:05 am

    I like Sonia Rykiel Woman Not for Men–stupid name–for school. You can find it on Amazon and discounters. It has a “pencil shavings” note that just says school to me.

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  5. kristens says:
    23 April 2012 at 11:07 am

    Parfum d’Empire’s Cuir Ottoman? Notes of jasmine, leather, iris, benzoin, balsams, resins, incense

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  6. Dawnkana says:
    23 April 2012 at 11:16 am

    Hermes Kelly Caleche… ( if you a like a floral leather)

    Kelly Calèche: Jean-Claude Ellena as an interpretation of the memory of a visit to the Hermès skin warehouse, this expression of a light leather is at once feminine and joyous. Kelly Calèche gives a nod to two emblematic House references, translating the tactile, olfactory emotions of the perfumer while evoking a skin-deep leather, tanned by caresses and embroidered with fresh petals.

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    • shellyw says:
      23 April 2012 at 11:18 am

      Do you know the floral notes inthis? I seem to remeber trying it but can’t remember why I did not go for it.

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      • Dawnkana says:
        23 April 2012 at 11:27 am

        Hi Shelly,

        The notes listed are: jasmine, mimosa, tuberose, iris, benzoin and discrete leather accords.

        I have a bottle but I can’t remember if I have the EdT or the EdP. There was a quite difference between them. I think I preferred the EdT because it had more of a leather aroma and the EdP was more of a deep floral with less leather.

        I’ll check which one I have.

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        • shellyw says:
          23 April 2012 at 1:34 pm

          It must have been the Tuberose I recalled

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      • odonata9 says:
        23 April 2012 at 6:40 pm

        I get rose from this, and a lot of it.

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  7. tomorrows_eve says:
    23 April 2012 at 11:33 am

    Hermès – Eau De Gentiane Blanche Eau De Cologne Spray
    about 98$
    not for everyone, but I personally love it and find it very special. it might not last that long though..

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  8. lucasai says:
    23 April 2012 at 11:51 am

    Maybe Serge Lutens, Five O’Clock Au Gingembre, this should be a nicer and not that smoky tea.
    I would also suggest Voyage d’Hermes Parfum version. It is really stronger than original and has better longevity and sillage

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    • shellyw says:
      23 April 2012 at 1:35 pm

      I could easily become an Hermes fan – if I was not on a teacher budget. I have loved so many of their scents. Occasionally I work up the nerve to go into their SF store and try on one or two.

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  9. nycartist9 says:
    23 April 2012 at 11:58 am

    How about Bottega Venetta? It’s a great oakmoss/leathery suede with a bit of apricot. A very cozy scent.

    I’d also look into the Jo Malone Intense collection-

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    • lise says:
      23 April 2012 at 2:38 pm

      I second Bottega Veneta!

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      • shellyw says:
        23 April 2012 at 3:17 pm

        I have seen this mentioned a lot. I know nothing about it and will have to see where/who sells it.

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        • poshnerd says:
          23 April 2012 at 4:37 pm

          Another vote from me! It’s at Nordstrom, and probably plenty of other places in SF.

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  10. Bradamante says:
    23 April 2012 at 11:59 am

    I think you’ve got exquisite taste. For leather + violets, I second Jolie Madame, dead cheap too if you don’t want vintage. (just checked – there are no violets in Jolie Madame, but one smells them just the same – look here for example: https://nstperfume.com/2009/07/20/balmain-jolie-madame-fragrance-review/)
    For a butch leather: how about Knize Ten? http://boisdejasmin.com/2012/04/knize-ten-perfume-review.html

    Ambre Sultan – ‘you smell like brownies’ Haha….:-) Great noses, those kids. But maybe you could try Bas de Soie – galbanum, orris, violets. No leather whatsoever (I think at least), chic and ladylike.

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    • Emily says:
      23 April 2012 at 1:19 pm

      Knize Ten is a great recommendation. Maybe also Bandit?

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    • shellyw says:
      23 April 2012 at 1:37 pm

      I see a decant site in my future… So many to try and violets, leather and heliotrope always call to me.

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  11. Elisa says:
    23 April 2012 at 12:01 pm

    What about Chanel 31 Rue Cambon? I get many compliments on it; it has decent sillage, without being loud. At least to my nose, it is tied nicely to Cuir de Russie: both have a very sophisticated vintage feel, both are ‘dry’ as opposed to sweet, and both have a dose of that luxurious Chanel Iris.

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    • shellyw says:
      23 April 2012 at 1:39 pm

      currently in my top 5 to get next

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  12. SmokeyToes says:
    23 April 2012 at 12:19 pm

    How about Dans tes Bras by Frederick Malle? Beautiful violets and woods/cashmere musk drydown, on me it does have a suede vibe. Beautiful soft and uniqie. I second the Bottega Vanetta rec, the drydown is so beautiful and cozy.

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    • shellyw says:
      23 April 2012 at 1:38 pm

      I defiantly will have to go for just a sample, his stuff is not cheap…

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  13. Cybele says:
    23 April 2012 at 12:48 pm

    Samsara and second Bottega Veneta

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  14. Emily says:
    23 April 2012 at 1:12 pm

    Thirding Bottega Veneta, and for another floral leather, I’d suggest Cuir de Lancome. It’s discontinued but is still available online, and it’s well under $100.

    Osmanthus fragrances also seem like a natural fit — they can be floral, a bit leathery, and tea-like. Parfum d’Empire Osmanthus is within Shelly’s price range, and she might try decants of The Different Company Osmanthus and Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan.

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  15. Emily says:
    23 April 2012 at 1:16 pm

    Ooh, and since Shelly likes iris and leather, maybe L’Artisan Dzongkha? Not sure if it would be noticeable enough, though.

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    • shellyw says:
      23 April 2012 at 6:07 pm

      I found Artisan’s DZ very strong, but maybe that was a day I was in the car a lot, closed confined space, warm… I still have some in the vial, maybe I will try it again.

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  16. Aparatchick says:
    23 April 2012 at 1:33 pm

    Shelly has received a number of PdE recommendations – PdE has a great sample deal: 3 samples of your choice for approximately $13 or samples of the entire line for approximately $30. The samples are a nice 2ml spray and can be ordered from the PdE website.

    I’m going to third the SSS Champagne de Bois recommendation. Lovely stuff.

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  17. elise says:
    23 April 2012 at 1:46 pm

    I second Kelly Caleche..and how about trying the new Keroscene fragrance that is roses and leather? MIN carrries samples…

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  18. breathesgelatin says:
    23 April 2012 at 1:56 pm

    Cuir de Lancome is definitely within the price range! Also, Lonestar Memories is great for a butcher leather. ;)

    Many have seemed to like the new Matiere Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fetiche, but that’s a but above your price range I think.

    If you like Le Dix… How about a purse spray of Tableau de Parfums Miriam? A wonderful aldehyde, rose, violet, and gorgeous sandalwood. For me, the woodsiness is what comes through the most. And the purse spray is $40 I think.

    Sonoma Scent Studio also sounds like a house to try given your tastes.

    You seem to know the Carons; how about Nuit de Noel?

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    • shellyw says:
      23 April 2012 at 3:19 pm

      The counter I went to did not have a sampler of Nuit de Noel. Miriam had been one I thought was interesting when reading about it. I will have to see if they are carried in SF some where.

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  19. mals86 says:
    23 April 2012 at 2:03 pm

    Love, love Cuir de Lancome – and I think it might suit you. Or how about SSS Nostalgie?

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    • shellyw says:
      23 April 2012 at 3:20 pm

      IS the Cuir de Lancome a current scent? For example could I bug the lady at the local Nordstoms for a sample or is it harder to find?

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      • Bradamante says:
        23 April 2012 at 4:10 pm

        try the discounters. I think you’ve got a better chance there than with the Lancome Ladies.

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        • shellyw says:
          23 April 2012 at 8:27 pm

          Discounters ? on-line?
          TJMAXX?

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          • Bradamante says:
            24 April 2012 at 4:17 am

            I don’t know if its proper behaviour to mention them here. But I’m talking about the online discounters. You could google for example: online fragrance discount(er). Robin, is it allowed to give somes names?

          • Robin says:
            24 April 2012 at 8:31 am

            Oh, absolutely, go right ahead!

      • mals86 says:
        24 April 2012 at 12:54 pm

        Oops, sorry – didn’t make it back here yesterday to answer the question! It is only available at the online discounters (try fragrancenet or 99perfume.com), but TPC or Posh Peasant or Surrender to Chance would have samples if you didn’t want to buy unsniffed. I bought mine blind and loved it immediately.

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  20. maggiecat says:
    23 April 2012 at 2:28 pm

    I’m stumped as to an original suggestion, but second SSS Champagne de Bois, the Bottega Veneta, and Kelly Caleche. Good luck!

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  21. bella says:
    23 April 2012 at 5:21 pm

    Iris Poudre is ladylike and so sophisticated. Just beautiful!
    it’s by Frederic Malle. Yes, pricy, but so worth a decant.

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    • shellyw says:
      23 April 2012 at 5:52 pm

      I have a very long list of decants after today.

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  22. nozknoz says:
    23 April 2012 at 10:10 pm

    Seconding Cuir Ottoman (it’s a wonderful leather and should not fail to garner compliments) and Knize Ten (another wonderful leather that is within your price range). Given the historical links to Turkish Sultans and Habsburg Archdukes, these would seem especially delightful for a teacher. ;-)

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  23. amarie121 says:
    23 April 2012 at 11:29 pm

    As a former teacher, I understand not wanting to smell like play dough or old books! It is nice to “escape” the environment through beautiful scent, yet not anything that causes disruption with the children. I agree with Bottega Venneta, and think that Balenciaga Paris is quite nice if you like Apres l’Ondee. For a very affordable option, some of the Tocca scents may be worth trying (a mini collection is $18) and at Sephora you can ask for samples. Lastly, going out on a very commercial limb, Candy by Prada has great silage and lasting power. Adult but kid-friendly, too, and right at the price point. Have fun!

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  24. L says:
    24 April 2012 at 1:45 am

    I think the green tea and jasmine of Bulgari Eau The Vert would be worth a try for you. It’s perfect for daily wear and you can find it at all the online discounters.

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  25. Bradamante says:
    24 April 2012 at 4:27 am

    I thought about Eau The Vert too. Candy might be to gourmand (in stead of brownies, think caramel mouche). Then there’s one other trail you might explore: the Guerlain genealogie. Six years after Apres l’Ondee (1906) came L’Heure Bleu (1912), also built on orris, but with a lot of heliotrope. They are clearly related, but whilst Apres l’Ondee is about restraint and melancholy, l’Heure Bleu talks indulgence. C’est une odalisque venu de la peinture Ingres. And then, in the nineties, Insolence came, also about orris, violets and heliotrope. But Insolence knows about Andy Warhol, pop art, et all. She starts out all magenta hellraisin’ bootycall. After that you find out what family she really comes from (safety warning – start with the EDP, and avoid My Insolence)

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    • nozknoz says:
      24 April 2012 at 10:06 pm

      I love your genealogy of Guerlain, Bradamante!

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  26. Blimunda says:
    24 April 2012 at 5:49 am

    I kept thinking of dry, incensey frags for you! Great and unusual everyday scents from L’Artisan: Dzongkha, which is incense, woods and iris. And also, Poivre Piquant – it has milky tea, but not too sweet or smoky, more edgy from Pepper (which echoes Parfum Sacre). Very unusual.
    In the leathery path, try the modern suede of Heeley’s Cuir Pleine Fleurs. A perfect office/classroom scent – modern chic!
    For a tea scent – try Champaca from Ormonde Jayne, it’s got green tea and is unusual and wonderful and good for daily wear. Good luck and keep us posted!

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    • shellyw says:
      24 April 2012 at 10:30 am

      I just got a decant of Ormande Janyne, seems promising

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  27. CM says:
    24 April 2012 at 7:53 am

    You must try Citizen Queen by Juliette has a gun. Violet, rose, leather and labdanum. It’s my current HG, and one of the few perfumes I wear that gets compliments. Very pretty with a leather punch. You might also like bulgari Black which also has presence. I think of it as vanilla dressed in a leather/ vinyl catsuit. Cuir de Lancôme and Bottega Venetta are also really good. (I love leather!) Tom Ford Violet Blonde is another good violet. Finally,Try serge Lutyens Chergui when it gets cooler. I love this, but it’s too much in the summer.

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    • shellyw says:
      24 April 2012 at 10:41 am

      I forgot to put in my info that I have Extreme Vengence which is a rose scent by Juliette, it has a great amount of staying power compared to my normal choices so there Violet one could be good.

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    • mals86 says:
      24 April 2012 at 12:55 pm

      LOVE Citizen Queen. But I find it very sexy, so I wouldn’t wear it to work myself.

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      • CM says:
        24 April 2012 at 2:06 pm

        It’s interesting how you define this as “sexy” – what makes CQ more sexy than any other perfume? It’s in my standard rotation so I often wear it to work…I’m wearing it today, in fact! I don’t really classify this as sexy, but I would wear CQ on a date over, say, Mimosa pour moi, for example, and I’d wear both to work. (note: I work in your standard casual business cubicle environment)

        Ooo! That might might make an interesting Open Poll question!

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  28. Nile Goddess says:
    24 April 2012 at 9:46 am

    Since I’m so laaate there’s no reason to third/fourth/fifth Bottega Veneta and Kelly Caleche.

    Do they really have to be all leather?

    I recently tried a limited edition of Thierry Mugler Womanity with FIGS, and since summer’s on the way, how about a nice fig?

    Never loked Womanity but the fig gives it a nice touch.

    Has anyone tried Fan di Fendi? It’s supposed to have leather as well, and price-wise fits the budget.

    Am wondering whether to order one unsniffed or splurge on lovely Bottega Veneta – anyone who’s tried both?

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    • shellyw says:
      24 April 2012 at 10:42 am

      Bottega Veneta has been mentioned so often is seems to be a must.

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      • Nile Goddess says:
        24 April 2012 at 11:30 am

        A must try, anyway :-)

        Robin has reviewed it, Elena has reviewed it, heck I’ve reviewed it on my blog, and if you spend your budget on something else and run into BV later you may sorely regret it. It is that beautiful.

        I’ve even recommended it to a guy in a chat room and he bought it for his girlfriend, then ditched the girlfriend and kept the fragrance! I’m sure it was not the only reason, but it’s funny nonetheless.

        Seriously, check also the rave reviews on makeupalley.
        Peace!
        :-)

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  29. SmokeyToes says:
    24 April 2012 at 12:15 pm

    I don’t know now leathery or mossy you like your perfumes, but Estee Lauder’s Azuree also came to mind. Worn lightly (one spritz), it’s one of the best leathers around, and it ‘reads’ like a niche scent for 1/4th the price, and, not everyone will be wearing it too.

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