Today we're helping Lee. She says every perfume she tries ends up "going to sugar" in the dry down, and she wants our help finding something dry — nothing fruity, nothing amber-y, nothing sugar-y and definitely nothing powdery. She is open to fragrances geared towards either gender, and she's love to find something under $100.
Here is what we know about Lee:
She's in her late 30s.
She works in science, but in an office, not a lab.
If she could make a California Girl perfume, it would smell like hiking through the grassy, sage and California laurel hills of Marin County on a hot day, then down through the wet redwoods, pine sap and black earth of Mt. Tamalpais, then coming out at last through the gardens of Stinson Beach to the beach itself with its cold breeze off the ocean.
Lee likes earthy and vegetal smells: wet dirt, sun-heated rock, brick, lumberyards, sage, grass, lime, tomato leaves, campfires. She loves salty fragrances. She wore Issey Miyake L'Eau D'Issey Pour Homme for years, but she got bored with it eventually. She currently wears Hermès Concentré d'Orange Verte, and she likes that too, but again, she's getting bored of it, and while she appreciates the staying power, it doesn't have that lovely initial sparkle of Eau d'Orange Verte.
Here are some of the perfumes Lee has tried or worn in the past:
Comme des Garcons Wonderwood: It smells great, but it's a little too realistic — she would like more complexity and abstraction.
Caron Yatagan: She found it interesting and appealing but her husband politely requested she never wear it again.
Tauer Perfumes Lonestar Memories: Fun, but too much burning tar.
Tauer Perfumes L'air du Desert Marocain: She likes it, but it's too sweet for her.
Diptyque Eau de Lierre: Too watery.
Estée Lauder Azurée: Smells like soap and powder to her — she missed the herbal, leather and marine notes she expected after reading a review here.
What say you?
Note: image is Buzon-de-correos [cropped, doubled] by alicedice at flickr; some rights reserved.
The original Azuree is very heavy. Like Dune, it’s not very oceany.
Try Bronze Goddess Soleil instead. Also: Bulgari Aqua, He Wood Ocean Wet Wood, Michael Kors Island, Bond No. 9 Hamptons and Montauk ( both expensive).
Ocean Wet Wood by Dsquared is nice, you could also try their Silver Wind Wood
Andre Putman Preparation Parfumee, CB:IHP Mr. Hulot’s Holiday, and Hermes Eau de Mervielles are the first things that came to mind. You might give Heeley Sel Marin and TDC Sel de Vetiver a sample, though they are over your price range. If they the one, you could get a decant.
Ooh, I second the Hermes Eau des Merveilles. Perfumes tend to turn all sweet on my skin too, but the salt in this one is gorgeous. The composition paints an abstract beachiness on my skin – perfect summer.
Thirding Eau des Merveilles!
2 the AA PP.
Seconding the Sel de Vetiver, and a few others also came to mind: Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel is a salty fragrance that also smells of hay and is not at all sweet. Comme des Garcons Sequoia and Hinoki are both very dry, woody scents (and both have been reviewed on this site). And CB I Hate Perfumes is a very realistic tomato-leaf scent.
Oops, that last sentence should be “And CB I Hate Perfume’s Memory of Kindness is a very realistic tomato-leaf scent.”
I have a few suggestions:
1) Bergamotto Marino by Gianfranco Ferre – salty sea air, bergamot, blackcurrant, jasmine and musk. Beautiful and can be found on the cheap (<$35 for a 3.4 ounce bottle) at online discounters
2) Guerlain Vetiver – green grassy delicousness; lemon, vetiver, coriander, nutmeg and tobacco. Sounds more butch than it actually is and it's extremely wearable by either gender.
3) Beach by Bobbi Brown – jasmine and salty air; reads slightly more feminine and floral than the Bergamotto Marino above but still can be a 'shared' scent
4) Kenzo Pour Homme – probably the saltiest, most sea-inspired fragrance I've experienced; with bamboo, ozone, iodine, sage, vetiver, amber, oakmoss, cedar and sandalwood – along with a host other things I cannot recall. Odd but definitely wearable.
Since Lee is not afraid to cross the gender aisle, I’d suggest Terre d’Hermes. And since Lonestar Memories was almost right, I’d suggest Sonoma Scent Studio’s Fireside Intense (a favorite of mine). CdG’s Hinoki has a wonderful lumberyard feel to me, but I think it’s a little above her price range.
Heeley’s Sel Marin!! Its salt air, salt water, sunwarmed cedar and vetiver- should be perfect for you. Or, how about Creed Silver Mountain Water or Zeste Mandarin Pamplemousse? Also Pacifica Tibetan Mountain Temple ( they are having a 20% off sale) or Malibu Lemon Blossom- which has a very definite salt note. Good luck and happy sniffing!
I second Heeley’s Sel Marin – but at $150, it’s slightly out of Lee’s requested price range. But I’m sure she can acquire samples to test.
Jo Malone Lime Basil & Mandarine never disappoints
There is a flanker for Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, called Pour Homme Eau, which to me is a smell alike for Heeley Sel Marin, and can be found at online discounters and some mall perfume kiosks for less than $50.
Oooh! Papyrus de Ciane by Parfumerie Generale. It is starkly green at first, then woody, earthy green, then dies down to soft wood. I love it, and have worn it nonstop this spring. . .but many, many people do not like it. It has the Mousse de Saxe base, which is fascinating. I’d recommend a spray sample, as it seems different sprayed compared to dabbed. The good news is that it is within Lee’s price range.
I’d second the recommendations for Terre d’Hermes. It is wonderfully mineral tinged, and I love it for both its initial sparkle and its dry quality. Happy fragrance hunting!
My first thought was Yatagan, but it looks like that’s not going to work.
Some other possibilities that cam to mind: Parfum d’Empire Wazamba; L’Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu; Jacomo Silences; and (a bit over the price point) Comme des Garcons x Monocle Hinoki or Laurel; Miller et Bertaux #3 Green, green, green, and green.
Dirt, grass, and leaves make me think of the Hermes Jardin series. Campfires made me think of chanel Sycamore. I’m also thinking something rubbery or leathery might be worth a shot.. Bulgari black, Cuir de Russie?
have you trie Hermes Eau de Gentiane Blanche? cool, dry, vegetal, peppery, i love it. i’d also recommend Sienne l’Hiver, which is along those lines but more complex.
third rec, out of the price range but worth sniffing: Chanel Sycomore. Bracing woody vetiver which screams California to me.
I would recommend Chez Bond by Bond No. 9
Loudly seconding Different Company’s Sel de Vetiver, Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel and Heremes Eau de Merveilles (NOT Elixir or Parfum–they smell quite different, but packaging is similar, take care). Comme des Garons Sequoia is an interesting suggestion, too. You might try some of the incenses in that line while you’re at it, particularly Ourzazate.
Adding: Not salty, but beautifully dry citrus/hay/leather in Santa Maria Novella’s Eva. From Diptyque I would try the fabulously weird L’Eau Trois which is as dry a scent as can be made, I think–resinous desert sap.
And oh gosh, coming back to add Roxana Villas’ Chaparral, which is designed to smell of the first half of that California landscape you describe above (Sequoia is the second half). You can order a solid sample for not too much to try. She’s on etsy.
L’Artisan Dzongkha might be worth a try. Cool stones, incense, rooty iris, and a bit of leather. Maybe also Lalique Encre Noir — inky, spicy vetiver and woods — and CdG Incense Series Kyoto. And “initial sparkle” + green makes me think of Chanel Cristalle EDT. There are great reviews of all four on this site.
Ooh, and Tokyo Milk Sea and Sky for a cheap thrill ($28). Dry citrus, peppery greens, and a lovely mineraly/salty aspect.
I second this, and the Eau de merveille, although I have never considered it to be a summer perfume.
Sorry, one more: Eau de Rochas. Terrific citrus (a lot of lime, to my nose) with a drydown of patchouli and a bit of a rocky/mineral/earthy element. The patchouli isn’t the hippie-cliche variety, but isn’t squeaky clean either. Again, there’s a great review on this site.
Love Heeley Sel Marin. Also, what about Ormonde Woman for a forest scent? Or CB I Hate Perfume Wild Hunt with notes of:
Leaves, Crushed Twigs, Flowing Sap, Fallen Branches, Old Leaves, Green Moss, Fir, Pine and Tiny Mushrooms
Another CB I Hate Perfume – Black March. Notes:
Rain Drops, Leaf Buds, Wet Twigs, Tree Sap, Bark, Mossy Earth and the faintest hint of Spring
Or…CB I Hate Perfume Ocean/Eternal Return. Notes:
Fresh Ocean Air, Wooden Ship and a faint hint of Cypress Trees growing on the cliff above the water
Sorry for all the posts.
Better yet, contact Christopher Brosius (owner of CB I Hate Perfume) at info at cbihateperfume.com, send your ideal perfume idea, and ask him for suggestions!
Second/third/fourthing Sel de Vetiver, and maybe also try Eau d’Italie’s Sienne L’Hiver if you’re willing to stretch the price range a bit. This is such an interesting one, the going-to-sugar thing really can be a problem! Do let us know what ends up working for you.
The answer is Ralph Lauren Polo — the original in the green bottle with the gold cap (1978, Carlos Benaim). Yes, it was a bit overworn in the 80s, but it is still a complex masterpiece with many of the notes Lee loves, and an entire flacon can be had for well under $100. Apply sparingly; it’s a bit of a monster.
(I know Yatagan was a nonstarter, but Polo lacks both the creosote and celery notes that prevent me from loving Yatagan.)
Lush Gorilla perfumes came to mind for me – try out Dirty, Ladyboy, and The Smell of Weather Turning if you get a chance. And maybe Breath of God, too.
Your perfect scent will be ready in a few weeks! Seriously. Laurie Erickson, perfumer of Sonoma Scent Studio, is currently working on a forest themed scent that I think will be perfect for you (I’ve smelled mods). She and Mandy Aftel are doing a series of letters on Nathan Branch’s blog about their respective, current projects:
http://www.nathanbranch.com/2012/03/letters-to-a-fellow-perfumer-mandy-aftel-laurie-erickson-ep-4.html
Oh oh! Sounds marvellous.
And there wouldbe others from SSS that might suit Lee’s taste as well.
Another home run from Laurie! I can’t wait to get a bottle.
OOH! so perfect:
SMELL BENT ~ Totem Eclipse of the Heart (western red cedar accented with champaca, skunk cabbage, evergreen, and earthy, vegetal musk)
Mountain High (fresh cannabis with balsam fir, lavender, vanilla extract, tonka, patchouli and sandalwood)
Brussels Sprouted (sprouted greens, himalayan cedar, and deep green musk growing in fresh, wet earth).
Great company, great oils/and sprays. order some samples! I did, and I’m SO glad….Brent the owner is awesome.
Have you tried Hilde Solani Stecca? It is a tomato based fragrance and is green and earthy.
Oops, typo. I meant Soliani.
L’Heure Fougeuse
Eau Sauvage
I would suggest Atelier Bois Blonds. They have a 30 ml bottle that is reasonably priced and it is a non-sweet hay like fragrance – very dry.
Seconding the Hermes Eau de Merveilles – easily found at discounters and dept stores and Sephora.
I wonder if you wouldn’t like Clinique Aromatic Elixir. It’s a weird one, but not sweet at all – very herbal-y.
And while I haven’t tried these, or even know if they are still around, but I thought Comme des Garcons Sequoia or Palisander might be up your alley, being very wood-y.
Dior’s Granville is dry herbs and windswept rocks. Not cheap because it comes in stupidly large bottles, but a large decant from one of the decanting services could be viable.
And Habanita? Very dry vanilla (not sweet vanilla, to my nose), vetiver, smoke, leather …
I haven’t actually tried it on skin, but how about Serge Lutens Filles on Aiguilles–pine forest type scent. Maybe someone who has tried it on can say if this is on target.
Coming to this thread a little late but I immediately thought maybe Clinique Aromatics Elixir or Sisley Eau du Soir? Both are wonderfully green and dry on me and if you shop around, the AE can be bought in a small size for around $40-50 and EdS can be found in a small bottle for under $100.
Also, many of Liz Zorn’s perfumes might have the sort of feel/dryness/greenness you’re hoping to find. At least that’s frequently been the experience on my skin and they’re often not so overly sweet despite some of the notes. I especially like Daybreak Violin for cool and green like an unfurling leaf plucked fresh from the branch during spring’s early days. It’s instant relaxation in a bottle.
Two more that some have found sweet but that don’t lean that way so much on my skin are Cabaret (a total bargain at around $25-30 for 100ml) and Chanel Coromandel which, to my nose, is more refined patch than amber.
Good luck!
Chanel 19 preferably vintage-you can find it on ebay.
EL Aliage.
profumo.it oakmoss or samurai-you can order this from the perfumer in italy-just google profumo.it.
More votes from me for Timbuktu, Bois Blond, 19, and eau de M.
My only addition would be Donna Karan Labdanum. Nice burning wood scent.
SL Gris Clair and MCMC Hunter. I second that you probably like some of the lighter leathers such as PdE Cuir Ottoman.
Nice challenge here, Lee! I like the recommendations so far, especially Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel. It is earthy, herbal, and salty. Just wonderful! A full bottle would be over the suggested budget, but do try a sample or small decant.
I second (third-fourth-fifth?) the suggestions that you try Hermes Eau des Merveilles and Terre de Hermes; Comme des Garcons Timbuktu, Sequoia, and the incense series; and Parfumerie Generale Papyrus de Ciane. If you like a little citrus, you might also try Annick Goutal’s Eau du Sud, which is a dry citrus/herbal blend, and great for summer!
Serge Lutens’s Gris Clair smells to me like sun-heated rock…
Hey, Lee here. You guys are the best! Very excited to see if I can try some of these out. Thanks!
I will suggest Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel (but over the budget!)- beautiful salty woodsy- I think you will love it.
Seconding Eau de Rochas and Guerlain Vetiver and adding Clarins Eau Ensoleillante and Etro Palais Jamais. Maison Martin Margiela’s Untitled and Balenciaga L’Essence might be worth a sniff as well. Good luck!
I agree with Sel Marin but it can be a little powdery, also a lot more affordable but a bit more chemical of a scent but still good is CSP Aqua Motu. SL Chene is a nice oak that could also be used to layer with the likes of Keiko Mecheri’s Mulholland, Jasmine, Datura or Osmanthus for a California scent. Mullholland sounds perfect for Lee with the exception of the amber which my nose doesn’t seem to detect with the KM line. I am always on the hunt for the perfect night shade scent that reminds me of the Hollywood hills on a summer night but alas it’s not to be. Good luck!
For Campfires- super smoky, and musky Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline and my favorite incense scent Nasomatto Black Afgano- strong incense/ tobacco/ oud. Both are over your price range but decants can be had. For salt/ oceanic I definitely re-recommend Eau de Rochas. And anything by Christopher Brosius- Memory of Kindness- tomatoes/ vine, Wild Hunt- a golden ambery pine forest, Soaked Earth Premium Accord.