Today we're helping Anastasia, who says she's a complete perfume beginner, although she has recently discovered niche fragrances. She's looking for a perfume or two to expand her relatively small collection. She would love to get suggestions for fragrances that are fairly versatile and age-appropriate, while still being unique and interesting. She can't afford to spend much more than $100 for any one perfume.
Here is what we know about Anastasia:
She lives in the Northwestern US, and is graduating from high school this year.
Her life is almost entirely devoted to her training as a classical harpist. She says she lives music and art, and also enjoys exploring philosophy and literature.
She loves old churches, Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland, children’s books, rainy days, lighthouses and the smell of baking bread.
Her style is off-beat but very romantic, and her friends have described her as dreamy, warm and passionate.
Anastasia's dream perfume would be the olfactory equivalent of a Debussy. She loves notes of vanilla, orange blossom, lilac, honey, honeysuckle, tea, licorice, rose (especially when blended with other things), light powder, anything creamy, tobacco, sweet spices and most fruits.
Anastasia doesn't like white florals, “classic” smelling perfumes, immortelle, anything medicinal, “clean” fragrances, aquatics or sharp green notes.
Perfumes she owns or would like to own include:
Lolita Lempicka Premier Parfum: Her first fragrance, and she still enjoys it although it's a bit sweet. If the licorice were stronger she would like it even better.
L’Artisan Havana Vanille: A beautiful cold weather scent, but she has not splurged because she can’t imagine using it in warmer weather.
L’Artisan Traversée Du Bosphore: A bit strong on the leather but definitely a favorite. The not-too-sweet Turkish delight dry down is something she’d love to find on its own.
Lostmarc’h Laan Ael: So simple but somehow enchanting, but it only lasts 20 minutes on her skin.
Tauer Perfumes Un Rose Vermeille: She loves it but it's out of her price range — she'd love to hear about cheaper alternatives.
Bond No 9 So New York: Pretty if not overly exciting, but she has used up multiple samples up and would probably own a bottle by now if it weren’t for the price.
Prada Candy: She recently purchased it, and is really enjoying it as a cold weather day scent.
Perfumes that didn’t work for her include:
Etat Libre D’Orange Tilda Swinton Like This: This would have been a great fall scent but the immortelle ruins it for her.
Lolita Lempicka L: Again with that immortelle!
L’Artisan Poivre Piquant: Pepper shaker.
Lush Twilight: The lavender was too medicinal for too long.
Keiko Mercheri Loukhoum: She liked it at first, but it quickly became too baby powder sweet and almost sickening.
Ineke line: She liked Field Notes from Paris, but the rest didn't work well on her skin.
What say you?
Note: image is Buzon-de-correos [cropped, doubled] by alicedice at flickr; some rights reserved.
My first was Frederic Malle’s En Passant, with its notes of lilac and bread. It’s out of Anastasia’s price range, but what about a decant?
I think she may like Dolce Riso by Calé Fragranze d’Autore Assolo, another dreamy and sweet (but interesting) fragrance. I’m not sure where it can be found in the US but the price point is right, I think.
I second FM En Passant. Lilac and bread, and just heartbreakingly beautiful.
I really feel like I’d love this one, and maybe a couple other F. Malles as well. I thought I’d read online that they offer 10 ml travel sprays – can anyone confirm that? Could I potentially find them at the Barneys in Seattle? Thanks!
Yes, they do sell 10ml x3 of their fragrances. They have them online through Barney’s but I’d call ahead to check for the travel size at the store.
I wish all perfumes were as potent and long lasting on my skin as SSS wAs. Laurie is making an outstanding product, I just want more, more, more, 3 FAVS are Champaign du Bois, Incense Pur, and Wood Violet. I wish I could have 100 ml bottles of those three I would signature scented.
Tocade, wonderful and cheap. Diptyque’s Eau duelle is also worth a try, as well as Yves Rocher’s Vanille Noire (quite sweet, definitely a cheapie). Patricia de Nicolai’s Kiss Me Tender might also be a good choice (reasonably priced, available as a 30ml bottle), as well as Fragonard’s Fleur d’Oranger, which is very affordable. For a more rosey perfume, try the Rosine: Secrets de Rose or Poussière de Rose (they are pricy, though).
Kiss Me Tender was the first thing I thought of as well! Along that vein, I’d also recommend Olympic Orchids Little Stars.
Perfume suggestions for Anastasia to try:
Lolita Lempicka Couture Black Eau de Miniut
Tom Ford Black Orchid
Stella McCartney Stella
Estee Lauder Sensuous
Estee Lauder Sensuous Noir
Bvlgari Jasmin Noir
Bvlgari Pour Femme
Bvlgari Rose Essentielle
Narciso Rodriguez For Her
Lancome Tresor
Chanel Coco
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle
Some more suggestions:
Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial
Hermes Kelly Caleche
Have you tried Courture Courture by Juicy C and La Haie Fleurie by L’Artisan Parfumeur? La Haie Fleurie has jasmine as one of its notes but it’s not promiment.
Hi Anastasia! What about Love Chloe? Or maybe Hermes Eau Claire des Merveilles?
For a lilac perfume I’d recommend Ineke’s After My Own Heart and for honey I’d recommend Lollia’s Relax
Vanilla-Hypnose
Lovely licorice( I too love that note)-Bvlgari Jasmin Noir L’essence
Honey-Lady Million
Vanilla+creamy-Burberry Brit
Vanilla+powdery-Spiritueuse Double Vanille Guerlain
Vanilla+Licorice-Un Bois Vanille Serge Lutens
How about Sonoma Scent Studio Vintage rose? Soft, nostalgic, different. Not overly expensive. One of my favorites!
Tea for two by L’artisan sounds like a candidate too, but I’m not sure if it’s still available in the US.
They still have some Tea for Two, I believe, at the Blue Mercury in Bethesda (DC area). If you call, you may have luck. They had a few bottles just a couple weeks back, and there didn’t seem to be a run on them.
Tea-Eau The Rouge BVL, Eau The Blanc, Eau The Vert, Omnia-BVL
Lilac-BVL Omnia Amythyste
(Sorry, I put a couple of pricey ones up there before reading the price limit.I would still recommend them for if/when the budget may increase.)
For some reason the first thing that popped into my head was Kelly Calèche. It’s described as a rose with a touch of leather but I find that the leather is barely noticeable so definitely not something that would scare a beginner off. It’s youthful and light without slipping into inane and pedestrian territory.
Also, a similar old-fashioned, fruity rose on vanilla base like Une Rose Vermeille try Robert Piguet Calypso.
You might try Caron’s Aimez-Moi and perhaps Guerlain’s Apres L’Ondee (the latter is a bit above your price point, and perhaps too “classic,” but I think both are worth a try).
Second both of these!
As you are a classical harpist I think you should at least smell once Arpege de Lanvin, and this is why: ‘However, her most significant expansion was the creation of Lanvin Parfums SA in 1924 and the introduction of her signature fragrance Arpège, in 1927, inspired by the sound of her daughter Marguerite’s practicing her scales on the piano. (“Arpège” is French for arpeggio.)’
However, it is a typical ‘classic perfume’, so try it just for reference and general knowledge 😉
and the source of the information above: wikipedia.
This is so cool! The 1920s is one of my favorite eras to study/daydream about – between that and the music reference, I’ll have to try this one. And who knows, maybe a “classic” perfume will end up being my next fragrant love affair?
How nice to hear from you 🙂 It might well be that your appreciation of scents will develop whilst gathering experiences and communicating about them – just like a musical taste does. Also knowledge of the history of fragrances helps to understand (and thus often: value) their idiom and the context in which it was created.
Hi, I’d like to second Kiss me tender by Parfums de Nicolai. That was the first one, I thought of, it sounds perfect for you.
Cheers
Safran
Licorice, eh? Then you must try Reglisse Noire by 1000 Flowers. Indiescents stocks it, and it is a licorice-lover’s fantasy. It’s at the upper end of your price range — $110 for 50 ml — but there’s a 15 ml bottle for $50. It’s a beautifully crafted, deep, complex scent, but it’s very wearable and seems to melt into my skin. I will be ordering a FB myself when my sample is gone. Happy sniffing!
And while you’re at Indiescents, also pick up samples of Tokyo Milk’s Honey and the Moon (for honey, obviously), Lucy B’s Royal Egyptian Amber and Honeysuckle (warm honeysuckle-jasmine floral with a bit of peach), and Jacomo Art Series #08 (milky chai tea). The first two are $28 a pop, and the Jacomo is under $70.
I second Reglisse Noir for licorice.
Also, try Lolita Lempicka au Masculin if you haven’t already — it’s inexpensive and very nice, I find the licorice note is more pronounced that in the feminine.
You might also like Hanae Mori or Badgley Mischka, which are pretty fruity-floral-gourmands.
I am totally thirding Reglisse Noire. Love it, love it. Also seconding Au Masculine. Both are great licorice scents.
I second the Kelly Caleche rec as well as the Arpege. I think you might like Lancôme Poeme ( spray lightly though as it has some sillage) or Ralph Lauren Safari ( discontinued but easily found online) and both are comfortably in your price range. Also Hôve Creole Days ( lightly spiced ‘dusty’ flowers – makes me think of a shadowy grand Southern antebellum mansion’s ballroom the morning after the ball) and Hôve Verveine.
She might enjoy exploring some of Christopher Brosius’s CB I Hate Perfume selections — unusual, evocative, exotic, and some aren’t too spendy. Russian Caravan Tea springs to mind. Also for the “weird and wonderful” category, some of the BPAL options might suit. For years my go-to summer scent (available on ebay at affordable prices) has been Annick Goutal’s Eau d’Hadrien: Seriously, one of the handful of scents that’s inspired men (straight men) to compliment me on how I smelled. 🙂 Oh, and I’d say Bottega Veneta would be worth her checking out, too. Sophisticated but still youthful, not fusty. And while I’m thinking of it, some of the LUSH /Gorilla scents would be good, too. Rose Jam (possibly discontinued), Silky Underwear, Vanilliary…
“Anastasia’s dream perfume would be the olfactory equivalent of a Debussy.”
I quit reading when I read that as it perfectly describes many of the creations of Sonoma Scent Studio’s perfumer/owner, Laurie Erickson. I highly recommend this line and would order several samples. Her scents are beautiful, soft, well-done and very reasonably priced.
Good luck!
Try Lieu de Reves from SSS.
The Debussey allusion allusion took me straight to SSS as well! And, at the moment Lieu de Rieves is my favourite…
Yup, try several from the SSS line! Tabac Aurea is a gorgeous tobacco scent, and Jour Ensoleille wears beautifully under hot sunshine.
Agreed! Sonoma Scent Studio is worthy of exploration due to the quality and price! Cameo is a lovely rose.
Sounds like we have pretty similar tastes. Would also recommend Dyptique Eau Duelle. Atelier Vanille Insensee is very similar, but has a little vetiver. They are woody, dry vanillas. For lilac, definitely En Passant. Ineke’s After My Own Heart didn’t work for me at all as a lilac. Eclat D’arpege is a nice, light floral with some lilac that is great for summer. I am still looking for the perfect honeysuckle soliflore myself and haven’t found it. Bulgari Omnia is nice (dry, chai tea type spices). The original in the brown bottle. Can be a little hard to find in stores, but easy at online discounters. SJP Covet is nice, a little offbeat with citrus, honesuckle, chocolate. Often found at TJMaxx or Marshall’s. Chanel No.5 Eau Premiere is worth trying if you want a softer version of something classic. Mild aldehydes at the beginning, then fresh/creamy/powdery after that. Good luck!
Have you tried L’Artisan’s Bois Farine? It’s the first thing that came to mind for the notes you like as well as your love of the scent of baking bread (mmm, me too). I’ll second the Tocade mentioned above as well — very pretty rose/vanilla, and dirt cheap (mine was $10 at Marshalls).
I second Stella McCartney’s Stella -a lso try Stella Sheer. Ditto Diptyque’s Eau Duelle, Bulgari’s Jasmin Noir L’Essence, and anything from Sonoma Scent Studio. You might also like Tocca’s Colette or Bianca – both have notes you’d like. All of the above, except the Diptyque are available in Sephora and other shops, and in your price guidelines.
She might like:
Guerlain Idylle Jasmine & Lilas
Givenchy Ange ou Démon le secret Elixir – almost all I get is lovely jasmine & honeysuckle honey
Dolce & Gabbana Sicily
all available in Sephora and affordable
How about Reglisse Noir, beautiful and whisper soft with notes of mint, anise, musk and vanilla, balanced and not cloying. My other rec would be Smell Bent’s Prarie Nymph, another soft scent with honeyed beeswax, carnation, clementine and soft musk. The clementine adds a beautiful sunny and uplifting note to the scent.
L’Artisan’s Bois Farine for ‘bread note’
Comme des Garcon’s Avignon for chuch incense ‘old churches’
Guerlain Nahema for a realistic rose
Decant of malle’s angeliques sous la pluie ‘rainy days’
Decant of luten’s deuce amere for anise ‘licorice’
second Tocade, Love Chloe
Feminite du Bois
Une Fleur de Cassie Frederick Malle for Debussy
A huge thank you to everyone for the suggestions so far! You have no idea how excited I am to try ALL of these – well actually, you guys of all people probably understand exactly (: Thanks again!
– Anastasia
I was looking through the list of fragrances for me to try and found Guerlain’s La Petite Robe Noire (the new version). It’s supposed to come out this spring and has a lot of the notes Anastatia likes.
There are some fantastic recommendations here, but I want to add another line: Parfums d’Empire. They offer a sample set, there are more than a few gorgeous fragrances in the line, and they are also well within your budget constraints. 🙂
Good sampling to you Anastasia!!
Anastasia, I’m so excited to read this Monday Mail: You and I are scent twins!! I have some great suggestions for you:
1. Profumum Dulcis in Fundo: very expensive, but a sample or decant is definitely worth it. This is a beautiful fresh, bright orange scent that dries down to the loveliest vanilla I’ve EVER smelled.
2. Frapin 1270: again, I’m sorry, a little over your price range, but this is a creamy, lovely, warm scent that is worth every penny!
3. Bond No. 9 New Harleem: slightly masculine, but an absolutely wonderful coffee/tobacco/vanilla scent I love on my skin.
4. Nanadebary Pink: spicy and warm and delicious
5. People of the Labyrinths Victor et Emergo EDP: cherry and tobacco
6. Tocca Brigitte: roses and spices–I think you’d REALLY like this one
7. Donna Karan Chaos: I never sampled the original version, but the re-formulated Chaos is still one of my favorite scents. Creamy chamomile and vanilla scent that wears close to the skin
8. Serge Lutens Jeaux de Peau: I have several sample vials of this scent and surprised myself by how much I crave it. It smells like toasted bread and dries down to sweet fruits (I get mostly apricot preserves)
I have a scent twin? Why, I feel initiated into perfumista-hood! Thank you for the suggestions, Valentine, they sound delicious (:
– “L’Huere Bleue” by Guerlain
– “Nantucket Briar” by Crabtree & Evelyn
– “Summer Hill” by Crabtree & Evelyn
– “Miss Marisa” by Ebba
– “Violetta de Parma” by Borsari
– “Inis” by Perfumes of Ireland
– “French Lilac” by Pacifica
– “Graciella” by Tocca
– “Infusion d Iris” by Prada
– “Geisha Blue” by Aroma M
– “Iris Noir” by Yves Rocher
– “Haiku” by Avon
– “The Unicorn Spell” by LesNez (a little pricier, but not very much over top end of the budget)
– “Naughty Alice” by Vivienne Westwood. Besides the fact that I think it might actually fit, it would be hilarious to tell people what you’re wearing :)!
Good luck :)!
I’m going to second the Tokyo Milk Honey and the Moon, Jacomo #8, and Sonoma Scent Studio sampling recommendations above.
But mostly I wanted to recommend the Oysterville church on the Long Beach peninsula. It’s a small but lovely building built in the 1890s and lovingly restored. There are occasional concerts held there.
Have you tried any Annick Goutal perfumes? You might like the floral compositions… your love of licorice brought to mind Mandragore Poupre, which features anise and has a very unique and mysterious quality.
I also second Estee Lauder Sensuous Noir, which is widely available for sniffing and not so expensive. It has a creamy sweetness and notes include honey, lilac, amber and vanilla.
Lastly, and this may seem a bit ridiculous, but because you are young enough to have missed the peak of its popularity, perhaps you have not thought to try Tommy Girl. Luca Turin raves about it and rues how under-rated it is just because it is so ubiquitous and affordable. It is a tea scent mainly, but includes a honeysuckle note. It is light and fresh (good for the summer), but not “clean” in a harsh aquatic cologne sort of way. Easy enough to pop into Kohl’s or what-have-you and give it a whirl.
Happy sniffing!
I second Tommy Girl. I bought a very cheap bottle from Boots and had a go of it myself – it was wonderful, and got better and better as it dried down. It’s been perfect for the slightly cool, sharp, sunny Spring days we’re having in London right now.
Easy to find and quite affordable:
Omnia Cristalline – Bvlgari
Ombre Rose – Jean Charles Brosseau
Lovely – SJ Parker
Closer to your limit:
Vanille Exquise – Annick Goutal
Honeysuckle & Jasmine – Jo Malone
Happy sniffing!
Oh!…and for a rose scent try YSL Paris. I think you can easily find a tester available at Macy’s.
Kenzo’s “Amour,” might work.
Vanilla, but not overpowering or overly sweet.
I think you might like Frederic Malle L’Eau D’Hiver. It has A very soft impressionistic vibe about it and the travel set is in your budget.
I’m going to suggest some lines that are within your price range and should be easy to explore in your area, without specific recs:
Sonoma Scent Studio (online – you can buy samples reasonably
Parfums di Nicolai (lovely range and great prices, small bottles, too
Annick Goutal (a little bit more than PdN, but you can find small bottles on ebay once you decide.
Jo Malone might be right up your alley & 50ml are reasonably priced. Her Orange Blossom is fantastic and she just came out with a limited edition lilac fragrance.
I know others have recommended scents from each line, but they are well worth exploration.
Hi Anastasia – I love your description of a ‘Debussy’ scent! I play piano, and Debussy is one of my favourite composers to play. He makes me think of watercolours, and that translates into these scents for me…..
Safran Troublant by L’Artisan (a rose with saffron and vanilla)
En Passant (a beautiful poem of a fragrance, a must for you to try)
Tea for Two (a spicy chai)
Le Labo Labdanum (slightly powdery)
Also was wondering about Dzing?
Yes – even if Brown Paper was not mentioned as a favourite note…
I love her reference to Debussy.
Another vote for L’Eau d’Hiver, if Monet’s paintings had a smell, it would certainly be that! And another vote for Apres l’Ondee, it seems very appropriate for a classical harpist.
I’ll add l’Eau de Neroli Dyptique and maybe L’Ombre Dans L’Eau