Today we're helping Jacqueline. She's looking for a replacement for her long time signature scent, Escada Margaretha Ley. She says everyone knew her by that fragrance, and she misses it. She also wore Dior's Tendre Poison, and she misses that too. Here is what we know about Jacqueline:
She's in her mid 40s and is happily married. She lived in Bangladesh for a few years, right now she is living in the Netherlands.
She is tall with dark brown hair. She used to work in luxury cosmetics, but now she helps in her husband's logistics company and does volunteer work.
She loves gold, and hates fake things: she says she wants the real thing or nothing at all.
Jacqueline is currently wearing Chanel Coco and Boucheron. She also owns Ralph Lauren Safari (wears it now and then), Jean Patou Sublime (ditto), Must de Cartier (only wears in very cold weather), Jil Sander 4 (gets lots of compliments, but she finds it cloying), Fendi Palazzo (her wedding scent, but now discontinued), Chanel No. 5 (gorgeous but she gets sick of it quickly), Hermès 24 Faubourg (lovely but too soapy), Estee Lauder Spellbound (she does not like the reformulation), Estee Lauder Knowing (she wore it for years, but now finds it gets dirty on her skin) and Bond no. 9 Chinatown (her "love hate" scent).
She does not like too much vanilla, musk or patchouli.
Here are some of the fragrances she has tried recently:
Lalique Amethyst: beautiful and her husband loves it, but she goes crazy smelling like berries all day.
Lalique Encre Noire: too flat and soapy.
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Soie Rouge: she almost loves it, but too much carnation and too sharp.
Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial: she loved it for a week, then found it too powdery.
Clinique Aromatics Elixir: she loves it, but finds it not feminine enough to wear.
What say you?
Note: image is lettres by jenny downing at flickr; some rights reserved.
What about Caron Parfum Sacre, Chanel’s Bois des Iles, Ormonde Jayne’s Tolu, or Estee Lauder Cinnabar? They are all feminine, classic-feeling orientals without too much musk, patchouli or vanilla, but plenty of character. Feminite du Bois might be a good one to try, too! Good luck!
Hi!
parfum sacre and bois des niles are on my to test list!!
In a month i’ll visit Vienna, I let you know!
Thanks a lot!
jacqueline
Theo Fennell’s scent.
I will put this on my testlist, thank you!!
jacqueline
Badgley Mischka Fleurs de Nuit, perhaps? It has that mixed white-floral-with-peach angle, though it might be less oriental than Margaretha Ley. It’s very pretty particularly in parfum.
O this makes me curious!
i tried the original bagley and that whas behh..to me, never thought of this one, thanks a lot!!
The Party in Manhattan, Nuit de Noel or Jubilation 25
Seconding Jubilation for Jacqueline, and maybe Etro’s Shaal Nur for something else in the same vein?
Hi, jubilation and my skin were not happy together:)
but I will try the other two, thanks!
“Nothing fake,” eh? All those fragrances contain synthetic ingredients. If that doesn’t matter (it doesn’t to me), I suggest Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois. If it does, perhaps Aveda Ancient Attar or Aftelier Secret Garden.
Haha, yeh, you’re right, it is probably the main reason I don’t like anything at the moment, but I won’t give up!!
Hi Jacqueline,
We have 2 perfumes in common – vintage Spellbound – I still have my original bottle from 1992 or 1993 and yes, the current formulation is a pale comparison to the original.
The other perfume is Must de Cartier which I bought in 1998. I have a 1/4 of of it left and it works beautifully on very cold days.
So, from those 2 above, I thought Amouage Ubar might be good for you to sample. There’s something similar to it in the drydown which I find in the original Spellbound. It’s almost animalic…possibly civet that they share? I don’t know but I love it in small doses. Lasts forever and ever on the skin.
Also 2nd’ing the Party in Manhattan which was suggested above. It has a vintage feel to it and it has a carnation note which you might like.
Have fun sampling!
~D
Hi, I loooooove must, but only when it’s really cold, and here it’s only a few weeks a year, so…
Ubar didn’t match imo.
The only amouage I love is epic, but it makes me crazy!!
party in manhattan i put on my to testlist!!
Thanks!!
I am wearing Cinnabar today and would definitely second the recommendation. Also Sonoma Scent Studios Champagne du Bois Arpege (vintage if you can) and Magie Noire (again vintage if possible). Divine’s L’Imperatrice would be a possibility as well.
Seconding Champagne de Bois, and adding Laurie’s new vintage-style fragrance, Nostalgie.
oh…magie noire vintage..the new one is HORRIBLE, isn’t it?
I put the other suggestions on my to testlist!
Thanks !!
Hi Jacqueline! First, I want to thank you for mentioning Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Soie Rouge. I hadn’t heard of it and it sounds like one to put on my “to try” list!
I want to recommend that you look at reviews for two newer fragrances, DSH (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz) Mirabella and Lubin Black Jade. Both are interesting and really good floral blends with an oriental vibe, and well worth testing. Good luck with your search!
Hi, I am gonna try them asap!!
Soie rouge is soooo nice, but it is with me the whole day and makes me nuts haha.But is a beautiful scent!
Are you able to test it where you live, If not I will send you a decant, let me know!!
I’m not sure if it’s discontinued, but if she can get her hands on K de Krizia, I think she’ll like it. It’s a somewhat lighter, but still interesting take on the classical structure which she seems to be attracted to. She might also want to sniff Mary Greenwell Plum.
k de krizia has been my signature before escada!!
I still have 25 yrs old bottle, gooooood old memories!!
I will try mary greenwell plum, thanks!!
That’s amazing – you don’t hear too much about K de Krizia in the blog world! I used to wear it too and recently bought a bottle at a store that had old stock. I know it’s hard to go back to something you wore before, I myself just spritz it on once in a while for the sake of memories. Mary Greenwell is much more floral than KdK, but you may enjoy the modern take on the structure. It’s a little sweet to me just applied, but sometimes that’s just what I want.
Hi to you all,
beside the personal replies I want to ad that I found something I never expected to like, soire de lune from sisley!!
I feel scented, not perfumed. I am in loove (for now, haha)
It is perfect for days you don’t know what to wear, try it!!!
Soir de Lune is a chypre so you might try Guerlain Vega and Sous le Vent or Givenchy III.
may i suggest two perfume houses and 3 scents. The first is “Untitled” the Maison Margiela scent. It’s undefinable but from what you say, it would agree. The others are Ormonde Woman from Ormonde Jayne and Champaca from Ormonde Jayne. I actually remember having a conversation with the perfumer Linda Pilkington when i was visiting the Mayfair boutique once, about Ralph Lauren Safari and also Chanel 5! I find myself disagreeing with the earlier recommendation of Tolu by Ormonde Jayne although that was the first scent i thought of because of your gold mention – it has a powdery drydown that has also been likened to soap by some. (I personally find it deeply addictive!) . Their Discovery Set is $75 and a good bet and I just ordered a bathing oil from their new website http://www.ormondejayne.com and paid directly in US dollars which was a revelation!
thank you your input, on my to test-list!!!
Perfumes Jacqueline should try:
Elie Saab Le Parfum
Bvlgari Pour Femme
Bvlgari Jasmin Noir
Chanel Gardenia
Chanel Beige
Theirry Mugler Alien
Thank you, i am especially curious about beige, Thanks !!!
Thought of a few suggestions. It took me awhile, as I do happen to love vanilla, but you may want to try Natori edp, Bulgari Omnia (original) and Gucci Guilty Intense (the edp, not edt). Chanel #5 Eau Premiere stays lighter and fizzier than original #5 and is nice for spring and summer.
Ooh, Natori EDP is nice.
Have you tried Givenchy Organza or Donna Karan Gold? Organza is a floral oriental, less woody and baroque than Coco but about as sweet, and very warm. DK Gold is velvety and floral without being too soft or soapy, and smells rich and layered.
Jacqueline, the perfume that Angela reviews above (Parfums de Nicolaï Maharanih ) might be fun to try, as well! ( I think I am going to have to try it myself!)
That Maharanih did sound wonderful, didn’t it? Also, Ormonde Jayne Woman is a wonderful scent, unique and original. Might be worth a try for you!
What about :
Atelier, Bois Blonds
Dyptyque, Tam Dao
Something from Guerlain I love is Insolence and my Insolence
Balmain, ambre gris. Love this
Byredo, Bal d afrique could be for everyday.
Amouage, Gold
Not to be predictable or anything — I feel like I recommend this one every week, probably because my bottle just arrived — but I’m going to suggest Etat Libre d’Orange Tilda Swinton Like This. It’s distinctive yet comfortable, feminine in a not-obvious kind of way, and in my opinion would make a terrific signature scent.
Jacqueline also might try Piguet Calypso — elegant, understated scent with mandarin, rose, iris, amber, and a subtle suede-like note. I’ll put some on, temporarily forget I’m wearing it, and then wonder what on earth smells so divine. Oh, yeah — Calypso.
The first thing that came to my mind was Jean Louis Scherrer, then First by V&A. Not new, but you sound like a gal who loves an aldehyde blast.
wow what a lot of responses, i thanked everyone personal yesterday, I don’t have time to thank you all in person today, so may I thank you all for the suggetions???
As soon as I found it, I will let you all know!!!
Late to the game, but have you tried the original Carolina Herrera (polka-dot box)? I think it’s right up your alley. Peachy tuberose-jasmine floral. When I was a kid a friend’s mother wore CH and Escada — now I wear CH myself! It’s so nice in the summer.
I am going to second Elie Saab for you!
Lumiere Noire Pour Femme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Portrait of a Lady by Editions Parfum Frederic Malle
these two are among the most elegant, sophisticated and deliciously full bodied females of more recent releases.
How about Dune (slightly warm/spicy note) or Paloma Picaso Mon Parfum (mossy chypre, along the same veins as Aromatics Elixir)? Also, Lancome’s Tresor is very nice, and along the same vein as Jil Sander No 4. All are easy to find and aren’t too expensive.
“She does not like too much vanilla, musk or patchouli.”
I recommend, based only in my crazy criteria, Liz Earle Botanical Essence No. 1
And here is the link from Robin’s review.
https://nstperfume.com/2010/06/01/liz-earle-botanical-essence-no-1-fragrance-review/
I got it and wore it a couple of times, but I ended up giving it as a gift to a dear female friend, on whose skin this perfume developed an amazing character.
thank you for this, I’ll read the revieuw tonight!!
I’m going to throw Serge Lutens Daim Blond in the mix because I simply love this scent. It inspires me to stand straighter. My mom would be proud. Another option is Bottega Veneta. It has a wonderful casual elegance about it. Perfect for wearing with a string of pearls or your favorite pair of worn in jeans. A third suggestion is Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d’Iris. This is one that I always want to have on my vanity. Lastly, if you love/hate Chinatown, then give Bond No 9 Andy Warhol Lexington Avenue a try. I find it takes the heart of Chinatown, but makes it more wearable for me.
All the best!
Thank you as well, on my to test-list!!!