Today we're helping Kate. Kate is just turning 40 and her daughter is just turning 1; she wants to mark the occasion with a new perfume that will help her 'reclaim her sense of self'. She's happy to consider all sorts of fragrances (day, evening, summer, winter, women's, men's), and she's also happy to consider decants, so she doesn't have a specific budget in mind. Here is what we know about Kate:
She's a part-time PhD student living in London.
She says she is quiet and fairly introverted, and tends to prefer solitary activities, but she can be quite outgoing in the company of friends.
She has an ironic (and probably fairly British) sense of humor, and she's a perfectionist.
Kate loves art galleries, reading, ballet, single malt whisky, antiques, and things of quality.
Her style is classic, but unafraid to experiment - if she had the money, she'd wear Alexander McQueen.
Kate likes leathers, mossy scents, earth, freshly cut wood, white florals, vetiver, the smell of old books, freshly extinguished candles, and real ink. Favorite perfumes include Chanel Cuir de Russie, Geurlain Heritage, Serge Lutens Un Lys and Prada Infusion d'Iris. She used to love Chanel Sycomore, but she stopped liking it when she was pregnant.
Kate doesn't like powder, fruits (some citrus is fine), anything remotely foody, vanilla, sandalwood, patchouli, incense, aniseed, anything sweet, violet or soapy smells.
Here are some of the fragrances Kate has tried recently:
Tauer Perfumes Verdant: too overwhelming.
Tom Ford Grey Vetiver: too corporate.
CB I Hate Perfume: she tried 15 different scents, and found them uninspiring and dull (and hopes that does not disqualify her as a real perfumista).
Guerlain Shalimar: smells like a not particularly successful bathroom air freshener.
Chanel Coromandel: she liked it, but it's maybe a bit too sweet.
Prada No. 3 Cuir Ambre: too much vanilla in the dry down.
Bottega Veneta: nice, but too quiet.
What say you?
Note: image is lettres by jenny downing at flickr; some rights reserved.
What about Untitled Martin Margiela?
Thanks for the suggestion. Interesting! One to test, I think!
I guess there will be loads of people screaming Ormonde Jayne here, DO PLEASE try Woman! sorry for the caps, but they seemed appropriate.
Just read Robin’s 2005 review and the foodiness/sweetness of the top notes worries me rather, as does the violet. But the grass oil and the vetiver sound great. And it sounds too intriguing to not try! And your upper case emphasis also counts
Thank you!
Yup, OJ Woman was my first thought, too. It is not foody to my nose.
It sounds like Kate and I have very similar taste. I’m pretty new to this world, but one of my favorites that she might like is Terre d’Hermes. It is actually the scent that made me realize that I don’t ‘not like’ perfume – I actually LOVE the ones that are right for me. I find Terre somewhat similar to Sycamore, but hopefully it’s different enough to not turn her off. It is less sharp-woody-green and more earthy-citrus-skin. It is refreshing but grounded. Oh, and I’m a woman, and although Terre is labelled as a men’s fragrance, I find it perfectly suited to me. There’s a good review of it on here by Robin.
Thanks CJ. People who don’t ‘get’ perfume don’t understand this, but it really is so distressing that I can’t stomach Sycomore any more! I reach for my decant (thank the dear Lord I only had a decant and not a ‘real’ bottle!) and remember what I used to smell and how it used to make me feel. And then reality kicks in and I want to throw up
I recently tried Tom Ford Tuscan Leather and found that I had similar problems. More sadness ensued…. So if Terre d’Hermes might have enough of the Sycomore about it, that is a brilliant reason to try it! Thank you!
Perfumes Kate should try:
Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.
Hermes Kelly Caleche
Chanel No. 19
Christian Dior Miss Dior (Original not Cherie)
Thanks for the suggestions! LILY is on my to try list – I passed a huge display of it the other day, but had run out of available un-spritzed skin.
I’ve found Kelly Caleche too fruity for me – once my nose homes in on it, I can’t shake it off.
I have no idea why I have never given Chanel No 19 any serious consideration. Ditto Miss Dior….
If you find Bottegga Venata “nice but too quiet,” try Daim Blond, which is quite similar but much brassier and richer.
Thank you. But too fruity and sweet for me
Howsabout CdG 2 or Hermes Vetivyr Tonka?
Vetivert Tonka has got to be tried!
Black ink!?!? FANTASTIC!!! Will be trying CdG 2 as well. Thanks so much!
Second the Vetiver Tonka, and would also suggest trying the original CdG fume which is full of old books and single malts to my nose.
I agree that Daim Blond is pretty similar to BV but not quite as well-mannered. Ormonde Woman is another good suggestion.
Also, how about Dzing?
Or Le Labo Patchouli 24. It’s at the top of my own To Try list since all the reviews I’ve read peg it as being rather mis-labelled and more about birch tar leather and old books than patch.
Oh and what’s that exclusive Cartier that’s meant to smell of horses/leather/tea/smoke? 13th hour? 4th? Someone please chime in with the proper name!
Is it this one: IV L’Heure Fougueuse – The Ardent Hour ~”A modern chypre perfume. A heady blend of magnolia, thoroughbred horse and oak barrel notes.” ?? (from Robin’s review)
There are so many of them that I think I’d inadvertently rolled two in one. The Fougueuse that you mentioned and XIII La Treizième Heure (which Kevin reviewed). Both sound quite interesting.
Agreed!
The “Horsey” one? = L’Heure Fougueuse = GORGEOUS
The XIII hour one is also great = dark, smokey with a very nice
tea note.
I tried Dzing years ago and although I remember I didn’t like ith I can’t remember why I didn’t like it, which is as good a reason as any to try it again. So thanks for the suggestion.
Le Labo Patchouli 24 sounds like a good one for the list, although the vanilla dry down sounds a bit scary. But won’t know until I try! Thank you.
I agree with L’Artisan Dzing! Leather+old books= Dzing!. A complicated perfume, and an intellectual experience.
Dzongkha from L’artisan, Cuir d’Iris from Parfumerie Generale and, M/ink from Byredo are what come to mind. M/ink has an ink note if I remember correctly
Agian, I tried Dzongkha years ago, again I didn’t like it, and again I can’t remember what it was about it that turned me off. Having a look through the list of their perfumes, I remember others I’d tried at that time that just didn’t do it for me. Maybe I;m just not a L’Artisna kind of gal? Be that as it may, I will give Dzongkha another go and thank you for the suggestion.
M/Ink sounds a little bit scary…..
Cuir d’Iris sounds fantastic!
Thank you!
I suggest Kate tries Heeley’s Cuir Pleine Fleur. I think it has vetiver, leather and cedar amongst a few other notes.
Not sure I’m going to be able to do the violet leaf in this one – but thank you.
Vetiver and real ink immediately made me think of Lalique Encre Noire. Second Dzongkha — I know Kate isn’t an incense fan, but the incense note in Dzongkha is pretty subdued (in my experience).
And it seems like I recommend this for everyone, but I’m also going to suggest Robert Piguet Futur — earthy-damp green jasmine over a cedar/vetiver base. Hrmm, maybe also DSH Pandora, if that’s obtainable in the UK?
Futur – hmmm. As with some of the other suggestions the violet scares me. But Angela’s review doesn’t focus on this, and this sounds really interesting. Good suggestion!
Pandora sounds interesting. As for availability – I shall be submitting a long order to The Perfumed Court
Haha, I forgot Futur had violet in it until you mentioned it just now — I’ve never noticed that note at all. (And, like you, I’m not a huge violet fan generally.)
Hope you’ll find something that works, and happy sniffing!
Seconding the Lalique, the original one, not the pour Elle.
Okay, one more and then I’ll shut up — inspiration seems to come in phases this morning. Parfums de Nicolai’s Odalisque: lily of the valley, jasmine, iris, and some earthy-mossy goodness in the base.
Odalisque – hmmm interesting…..
Encre Noir has been lurking on my to try list and, having just re-read Robin’s review, I have no idea why I have neglected it for so long. Thank you for reminding me to try this one!
OK – if there’s 2 votes for Dzongkha, I shall give it a go!
I also second Encre Noire (the men’s version) for an inky vetiver, dark woodsy sexiness (quite affordable too)!
I second (Third? Fourth?) both Ormonde Woman and Encre Noire. Encre Noir has the added bonus of a great bottle.
Serge Lutens Boxeuse and Chanel 31 Rue Cambon.
I agree – 31 Rue Cambon is an absolute must. It’s such a beautiful, complex and ‘grown up’ scent. I tried this again recently and was sniffing my wrist compulsively my entire journey home.
I’m afraid I’m not going to be able to do the plum or the licorice in Boxeuses
My two ( or three cents)
Lancôme : Cuir
Etat Libre d’Orange: Rien
Goutal: Mon Parfum Chéri
Clinique: Aromatics Elixir or maybe their Anniversary Edition
Lalique: Encre Noir
Thanks!
Might have a problem with the dry down in Cuir – possibly too sweet and vanilla for me? But otherwise it sounds promising so I shall have a try.
Not sure about the incense in Rien – but again, will give it a try.
I think the violet and the plum will kill the Annick Goutal for me.
The Clinique sounds like one to try and the Lalique has moved well and truly to the top of my list!
Cuir de Lancome isn’t sweet – give it a try if you can. It’s along the same lines as Bottega Veneta, a very floral leather, but I’d call it more leathery-vetiver, and the florals are drier.
Thanks for the reassurance!
Second the Cuir de Lancome. My memory of the drydown is that it was a nicely blended leather floral, not too foody or sweet. If you like candle smoke, I wonder if you’d like some of the “cathedral” genre, although sometimes these are described as being incense-y, which was on your “no” list: Avignon by Comme des Garcons is not sweet or cloying at all, or SSS Fireside. You may also like 1740 by Histoire de Parfums, a tobacco-leather with some floral. Idole de Lubin also has a nice leather note; it is spicy, but not too sweet. Donna Karan’s Black Cashmere is also nice. Good luck!
Thanks for the words on the Lancome – will try!
Avignon sounds interesting. And although I wasn’t that keen on the idea of Fireside, Fireside INTENSE does sound more like one for me to try – so thanks! Lubin Idole and Black Cashmere are also now on the list…. Thank you.
First, OJ WOMAN!
Also Hermes Caleche, Kelly Caleche, and Terre d’Hermes. Tauer Lonestar Memories, SL Chene and Smell Bent In the Library.
And Costume National Homme – ‘There is an appealing “closed space” aroma (a scent blend of old wood; antique, crumbling papers; and dried leather) in mid-development’ to quote Kevin’s excellent and spot-on review here on NST.
Agree on OJ Woman and Terre d’Hermes
Caleche is too soapy for me.
The Tauer sounds good. My one experience of Tauer to date (Verdant Pentachord) left me feeling like my nose had been mugged, so I am slightly concerned that I will be overwhelmed here as well, unable to detect any of the intricacies and layers. But, nothing ventured, nothing gained, right?
Can’t get on with Chene. I keep wanting to like Serge Lutens more than I do. I love Un Lys and quite go for Sa Majeste. But most of the others, although I find them interesting to smell, they’re not really what I’d want to smell of.
The list of notes for Costume National Homme sounded pretty scary to me. But having read Kevin’s review, it sounds lovely!
It is going to be an expensive month at the Perfumed Court
That has been my experience with much of the line, too; many seem very heavy on the patchouli.
Not just me then!
I am currently falling for several of my Facebook sample packs, so I was thinking some of the By Kilians might appeal to Kate. I love Back to Black and the four Oud scents. (Yes, I know Oud scents are increasing exponentially, but the Kilians are great.)
Back to Black is going to be too sweet for me and I;m not sure I can do Oud
Just too ‘much’.
But I’ve been intrigued to try another tuberose and By Kilian’s Beyond Love looks like that fits the bill. So thank you for drawing my attention to a perfume house I hadn’t really paid attention to before.
Beyond Love is very nice. I have never been able to wear or even appreciate Ouds until Kilian.
If this is a different take on Ouds, then I will investigate further.
L’Occitane Eau de Baux. Very woodsy and mossy. It does contain a bit of vanilla and incense, but the dominant effect here is wood.
Diptyque Tam Dao. I feel like I’m always recommending this! Clean, pure wood. Like sitting in a sauna. Don’t fear the sandalwood — it’s almost entirely cedar.
I think Eau de Baux is going to be too spicy for me. But Tam Dao could be interesting, once it’s calmed down! Thank you!
Just tried the Tam Dao. I was right – it did need to calm down, and once it did it was interesting. I think I need to live with this one a bit longer before I can make up my mind, so a decant may be in order.
Woody/spicy/leathery suggestions:
– Xerjoff Homme
– Humiecki & Graef Askew
– Gucci Pour Homme (discontinued though I fear :()
– Comme de Garcon Monocle Scent One: Hinoki
Green suggestions:
– Etro Palais Jamais
– Balmain Vent Vert
– Dior Eau Sauvage
– Diptyque Vetyverio
Etro Palais Jamais – YUM! I forgot that I love petit grain until I read the description of this
(again, why have I not tried this classic?? Shocking.).
The Balmain sounds gorgeous as well!
Ditto Eau Sauvage, provided it’s not too butch on me
I think Xerjoff is definitely going to be too butch for me
I will give the Diptyque ago, although I wonder if I might get a bit impatient and frustrated with it.
Askew : “A fragrance about fury. The demolition of the classical men’s fragrance. An abundance of fire and explosion, energy and virility.” YIKES!! But, hey why not? The notes sounds nice
The CdesG sounds like one I’ll enjoy in the bottle rather than on me. But I think I’ll really quite like it in the bottle, so might be good to get a very small decant to sniff at from time to time.
Oh God – have I really used 4 smiley faces in that comment I just posted??? Not that I’m not happy, but FOUR smiley faces??? Oh dear….
I second Ormonde Jayne Woman – and since you live in London, you’ll probably be able to stop by one of her boutiques and sample more than just the one scent: you might also enjoy Champaca, Tiare, etc. I’m no fan of violet scent myself, but Ormonde Woman is…amazing. It’s what I wear when I need to be completely, totally, and unapologetically myself. I hope you love it as much as I do!
Hi,
Thanks for the suggestions! Champaca sounds lovely. I’ve never really considered OJ before – too many perfumes and not enough time…. So thank you to you and to everyone who has suggested that I do.
Seconding Etat Libre d’Orange: Rien — NO sweetness there. Maybe their Vierges et Toreros.
CB I Hate Perfume has been a big snooze for me. Water-based? with my scent-eating skin I might as well just use water…
OK – two votes for Rien. Will give it a try! Vierges could be a good one, as long as the nutmeg and cardamom are kept under control.
I’m glad it’s not just me who is left cold by CB I Hate Perfume. I’ve never before come across a perfume house where I systematically dislike every perfume produced. Oh well….
Hi Kate, we have a lot in common besides the British humor! I like the notes you are mentioning, too. The first three that came to my mind: CDG 2 and Vetiver Tonka and L’heure Fougeuse by Cartier (the horse-mane smelling one). Because you like Un Lys, have you tried Frederick Malles Fleur de Cassie, Lys Mediteranee and Carnal Flower? You should revisit No 19 and Clinique Aromatics Elixir and maybe try some of the Red Series by Comme des Garcons
Hi Cybele,
So when you say we have a lot in common, you mean that we’re the exact same size and you’re going to let me borrow ALL of your extensive collection of Alexander McQueen, let me work my way through your lovingly curated collection of single malts, and let me sit in your box at the Royal Opera House, right?
CDG2 – am sold on the idea!
Ditto Vetiver Tonka
I wondered if that horsey Cartier was IV. Sounds like a good one, as long as it’s the right bit of the thoroughbred horse that they’ve incorporated into the scent….
Afraid to say I’ve never got around to Frederic Malle. I guess that admission blows my chances with your clothes, whiskey and box at the ballet…. Oh well.
Although the notes sounded like a tropical nightmare for me, Carnal Flower as described by Robin sounds lovely. As do the other two.
On crikey! What have you people done to me! This is going to cost me a fortune!!!
oh great, that sounds like a really fun evening! Carnal Flower is not particularly tropical but very potent. Fleur de Cassie is truly elegant, actually, like a ballet dancer ! as opposed to like a “lady”
They may be pricey, but the Tom Ford Private Blends have some slam dunks in the leather, woods, and earthy categories. Tuscan Leather, Bois Rouge, Italian Cypress, Moss Breches, Japon Noir.
Since you like single malts, ill crack open a bottle of Ardbeg with you to celebrate your choice of new fragrance.
Hi,
Yes, I’ve been working my way through the Private Blends at the counter in Selfridges every time I am in the area. I like Italian Cypress but was less taken with Tuscan Leather. It had the same effect on me as Sycomore. Why oh why oh why oh why did pregnancy do this to me!!!!!
Not got as far as the others you suggest. Last time I was there I tried White Suede, Jasmin Rouge and the Musks. Meh.
Enjoy the Ardbeg! I’m currently enjoying a bottle of Glenrothes
Glenrothes… exemplary taste!
Kate, I think you should try Liz Zorn’s leathers, particularly Journeyman (which has a top note that reminds me of single-malt scotch!) and Meerschaum (leather and tobacco). They are very rich and earthy and not too sweet.
Maybe also Aramis, a leather chypre that is kind of like Jolie Madame without the violet.
Mmmm Meerschaum sounds VERY nice. ICU sounds great too. And Dominion sounds intriguing. As do Green Oak Moss and Bottleneck Blues – paid a quick visit to her website. Oh dear – I am in trouble!!
Aramis?? Interesting idea – thanks!
I got distracted by Bottleneck Blues when something else was recommended during my Mon Mail and I adore it but you have to be able to carry some dirty skankiness (at least to my nose)
Dirty skankiness!
How about L’Artisan Nuit de Tubereuse? It’s white florals over a very earthy base, and I’m thinking that anyone who gets on with leather and moss and vetiver might find it quite interesting. It’s actually not particularly tuberose-y, in my opinion, but really fascinating. An intellectual fragrance.
Having read Robin’s review, I think I have to give this some serious consideration. Not sure I’m going to be able to wear it that often (Juicy Fruit???), but I agree it has to be investigated. Thank you!
Kate:
Encre Noir (original) = dry vetiver ‘black ink’
Ormonde Woman = a forest!
Malle’s French Lover – Top notes are spices and galbanum; middle notes are incense, cedar and angelica; base notes are oakmoss, vetiver and white musk.
Cipresso di Toscana – Acqua di Parma
Tom Ford Tuscan Cypress
Comme des garcons 2 man = snuffed out candle
Encre Noir, C de G 2 and OJ Woman are being recommended a lot – a good sign!
French Lover sounds very interesting. ‘a kind of plant-based animal quality that immediately evoked the smell of a man’. Gosh
For absolutely no good reason whatsoever I’ve never really gone beyond Colonia by A de P (which I like very much) and have really avoided the Blu M series. No real reason why…. Will investigate.
I agree on the Tom Ford – it is lovely.
Just tried A di P – started off a bit too ‘aftershave’ for me, but it developed really nicely and I love the dry down!
I thought you might like it! Do try french lover also
When I sprayed it on, I thought, ‘what on earth was she thinking?!?!?!’ but it develops so nicely
Unfortunately I had to wash it off after a few hours, because my daughter threw up all over me and I needed an emergency shower. I had been looking forward to seeing what it would do as the evening wore on!
Will try French Lover.
Thought of French Lover too, it’s very dry though. And I am also a fan of Rien ELO.
It looks like you might enjoy a more “masculine” fragance… have you tried on your skin Terre d´Hermes or Lalique´s Encre Noire?
I also would suggest Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist and Boudicca Wode…
More votes for Terre d’Hermes and Encre Noir!
And yes, I really do need to get my hands on some Iris Silver Mist.
And Wode sounds too interesting not to try! Thank you!
And of course O´clock au gingembre by Serge Lutens too
Too foody – can’t do it!
Thanks everyone – it’s late in London and I’m hitting the sack. Will read and reply to those comments that I haven’t got to yet tomorrow. Night night!
profumo.it Oak Moss and Samurai. Both are very mossy. Profumo.it is an italian niche line by Abdesalam Attar. He has samples and a variety of sizes. He’s most well known creation is Mecca Balsaam.
Never come across profumo.it before – looks like I shall be spending some time on the website. Thank you!
A couple of masculines:
Knize Ten: there’s a little strawberry but mostly old leather and furniture. Not exactly the books, more the reading room.
Yatagan: balsamic and dried-herbal, with oakmoss. I don’t sense the patchouli.
I second Aromatics Elixir and suggest Azuree.
Any of the above will save cash for your McQueen fund.
Knize Ten – ‘refreshing leather’ according to Kevin. One to try I think!
Yatagan might be a bit too herbal for me, but a sniff never hurt, so thank you.
Azuree sounds NICE.
Thanks for the suggestions. And for attempting to keep my A McQ fund intact (HA!). But with the list of must try scents I have now complied, it will be an expensive month (not complaining though!).
Since you like vetiver, I’d suggest that you try Annick Goutal Vetiver and the new Turtle Vetiver, Front Turtle, by Isabelle Doyen for Lez Nez.
Also, I’d encourage you generally to sample widely and not be deterred by the listed notes or even reviews. It is very hard to predict whether or not a listed note will be at all apparent, and I’ve yet to find a reviewer whose reactions always match my own. Enjoy the hunt!
Never got on with AG Vetiver. Turtle Vetiver Front is definitely on my list to try – smoky flinty vetiver sounds LOVELY. Thank you!
I totally agree about enjoying the hunt. Allow yourself to be surprised and delighted. There werethings on my list that I never would have tried otherwise that I’ll probably eventually end up with full bottles of and there are things that weren’t on my list that I’ve fallen for simply because I have perfume shopping ADD. I think it’s very important to keep an open mind and really let yourself experience each scent without trying to fit it through the filter of other people’s reviews
You are so right about other people’s reviews. Sometimes I’ve tried a scent and then read the review, or vice versa, and not been able to recognise what I’m smelling from what I’m reading!
Amouage’s Opus IV is reportedly both citrusy and woodsy/smoky – the Opus series is not as intense as the other Amouage’s and the library link somehow links to Kate’s PhD and love of paper and ink smells. Sadly, I do not know it, but do desire it! Description-wise, it sounds right for Kate – to me.
Never got on with AG Vetiver. Turtle Vetiver Front is definitely on my list to try – smoky flinty vetiver sounds LOVELY. Thank you!
Hi Kate, I think my taste in perfumes is similar to yours. I like ink and vetiver, too. As others have mentioned, do try Comme des Garcons 2 and Encre Noir. CdG 2 is supposed to smell of Japanese calligraphy ink. CdG 2 Man is a great option, too. Another recommendation would be Vetiver 46 from Le Labo. Have you explored Le Labo? They do a lot of interesting scents.
C des G 2 Man sounds lovely. Never tried Le Labo – I shall! Thank you.
Ok yes, it all screams Ormonde Jayne! Particularly as you are in London! I went there with my small daughter once and they couldn’t have been nicer – but you need to go to the lovely boutique either at Sloane Square or Mayfair and have the PERFUME PORTRAITS service which is serioulsy fantastic and …free! The nice manageress (i think her name was Natasha?) sits you down and you smell each of the raw ingredients of all 7 or 8 perfume families and need to be prepared to be amazed! There are ingreidents which we are familiar with on paper but you have no idea what they smell like on their own (Tonka for one). From that they tell you which perfume family (mine was balsamic even though i thought i was surely chypre) and then show you the most likely two perfumes and then after that they spray one and give you a tester to use for a few days (i then bought a full bottle of Tolu online with a promotion) . It is really a fantastic service and if you tell them you don’t have too much time, it takes around 10 minutes – actually my small daughter was quite happy so afterwards i was there for another 10 minutes or so chatting. But from what you say, i would hazard a guess at Champaca for you despite the basmati rice notes which don’t come across as food and that i can’t really detect. Good luck!
FANTASTIC! I shall pay a visit next time I am in town. Woman and Chamapaca have been recommended here a few times already
OJ sounds like it’s going to be good for me and, even in the very unlikely event that I don’t find something I like, this Perfume Portraits service sounds like a really fun and informative thing to do. I know exactly what you mean about individual notes in isolation. Thank you for describing this! Probably best to make an appointment?
Ormonde Jayne is absolutely the prime suggestion it seems! So there’s not much more I can add. Other than their Isfarkand is wonderful – pink pepper and cedar and citrus. Wonderful. Their Zizan is a Vetiver based scent, and worth checking out. Add those to the list! And obviously, for the White floral kick, their frangipani and Tiare are sublime. Sublime. It’s wonderful to find White florals that aren’t sweet, and her’s aren’t.
I also recommend Vetiver Extraordinnaire from Frederic Malle. It seems very grassy and rooty, yet green and fresh at the same time. For more earthiness, try Dirt by Demeter. It smells of freshly turned earth but is also slightly floral, so works as a perfume rather than just a smell.
I recommend Bandit and Futur from Piguet. Don’t be put off by the violet listing, as not all notes are necessarily discernible and ‘central’ to the fragrance. And Bandit is a fab leathery chypre, and Futur is a great green bunch of moss!!
A great woody fragrance is L’Eau Guerriere from Parfumerie Generale. It is unearthly and strange and undefinable!
Seems I really need to spend some serious time in OJ
Thanks for the suggestion of Dirt by Demeter. How similar is this line to CB I Hate Perfume? Just wondering if the Christopher Brosius connection will kill Demeter for me.
I will give Futur a go – 2 people have said they don’t get the violet. And a sniff can never hurt.
Bandit sounds interesting – might be a bit too heavy for me….
L’Eau Guerriere – WOW!
HI,
Another vote for Cartier’s Fougueuse. LOVE IT!
Adding Estee Lauder’s Jasmine White Moss. A very underrated fragrance in my opinion. ( do not let the violet note listed deter you. I smell NO violet in this. )
Private Collection Jasmine White Moss is a green floral chypre; the notes include mandarin, black current bud absolute, galbanum, bergamot, jasmin sambac absolute, jasmin India absolute, violet, orange blossom, orris, ylang-ylang, patchouli, vetiver and white moss mist. (Notes from NST)
And one more…. Dior Diorella. The only way I can describe this one is in two words: bohemian chic.
Have fun sampling. You have gotten tons of great suggestions.
Will try the Cartier!
Not a great fan of Jasmine, but will have a sniff of the Estee Lauder when I’m next passing the counter. It does sound very nicely done.
Never tried Diorella. The fruit sound as if it might be too much for me, but, again, always worth a sniff.
Thanks so much for the suggestions!
Tried Jasmine White Moss today – a perfect lesson in not letting a list of notes or a name sway you before you sniff. It was gorgeous! Beautifully done and very well balanced. I loved how it developed. I never would have thought to try this, so thank you!
Hi Kate,
My vote is for the beautiful Passion Boisee by Frapin. When worn, you can’t help but recapture the loving memories of the past. Passion Boisée is a sparking memory of the senses, blending fruit and spice aromas, like walking in the woods, sitting on leather settees or sipping sessions by a warm fire when it is cold outside. It ignites passion and truth.
“Skillfully composed” (Turing, L. and Sanchez, T. Perfumes the A-Z Guide, 2009:439).
Divine intoxication of the senses.
x
Sounds nice! Esprit de Fleurs and L’Humaniste sound like ones to try too. Thank you!
Hi Kate! I’m very late to this – sorry! Have you tried Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel? You might check out the reviews. I love the fragrance, and I have a hunch that you might, too.
Thank you! Sounds lovely – another one for the to-try list
Hi Kate, this is my first ever comment. I felt moved to write because I have similar scent preferences. I tend to go for chypres, leathers, green scents or true floral (but not sweet!!!) fragrances. I’ve been known to gravitate toward unisex scents and dabble in masculines (I now sometimes wear just a tiny bit of Aramis when the mood strikes, because I just love it so much, after a bit of “could I REALLY?” hesitation). Anyhow, I thought of some not-so-expensive fragrance options that are also fairly accessible for sniffing. These suggestions are:
1) Magie Noire by Lancome (Don’t be scared by some of the notes, please just try it! It is dark and mysterious and deeply satisfying, I find.)
2) Paloma Picasso (I can’t believe no one suggested this before because it has such a just-snuffed-out-candle note to me; I guess because it is not exactly “hip.”)
3) Niki de Saint Phalle (This is hard to describe, but incredible; I bought a bottle online un-sniffed and was extremely pleased! It is very complex, interesting and unique, yet I felt comfortable in it immediately.)
*Those are my three suggestions especially in light of your re-discovering yourself as a woman angle, but I also think you might like:
4) Les Nuits D’Hadrien by Annick Goutal (This starts out as a fresh herbal/citrus scent and moves into a cumin/masculine scent in a way I really enjoy. It is “unisex.”)
5) Eau de Gentiane Blanche by Hermes (This is a very dry woody scent; again, don’t be scared by the notes… it is like nothing else and you must just smell it! Also “unisex.”)
Happy sniffing. Enjoy!
Thank you – I really appreciate you posting! It does indeed sound like we have similar tastes in scent
I will try them all – and I LOVE the Paloma Picasso suggestion! It would NEVER have occurred to me to give this a go, but from a quick read through of the notes it certainly seems to tick my boxes
I just hope you find something you really love! I’m so interested to hear how you make out. Please post an update after you do some sampling!
Best of Luck,
Sarah