Today we're helping Lucie, who says that although she has been wearing perfume for years, she is only just starting to realize the power it can have. She has usually worn fresh, green, citrus-y scents, but now she'd like to find something deeper and more seductive. The perfect perfume would cast a spell, but also be sophisticated. She lives in London so has good access to stores, and she doesn't have a price limit. Here is what we know about Lucie:
She's a book editor in her late 30s. She's blonde with blue eyes and an English rose complexion — she is told she is very feminine.
She's single, and she likes going out to restaurants, dancing and parties. She also spends lots of time in the country — walking, riding, picnics.
Her taste is classic and elegant, but she also has a daring and sexy side.
Lucie likes warm, sexy vanillas, cinnamon, caramel, and toasty leather. Some of the fresher scents she has worn in the past include Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert Extreme, Chanel Cristalle, Hermès Orange Vert, Chanel No. 19 and Keiko Mecheri Peau de Peche.
Lucie wants to avoid heavy florals and old-fashioned scents, and she doesn't think rose or sweet florals work well on her. In the past she has also worn Ralph Lauren Romance, Chanel no. 5 and Serge Lutens Sa Majeste La Rose, but she says they tend to dry down woody, stale and a bit flat.
Here is what Lucie has tried so far:
Christian Dior Hypnotic Poison: She finds it interesting and sexy, and she can't stop smelling it, but she is worried about whether it is classy enough.
Guerlain Shalimar: interesting, but too sour.
Piguet Fraca: too floral and heady.
Hermès Hiris: light & feminine, but too flimsy for what she's looking for right now.
Hermès Caleche: sophisticated but older.
Hermès 24 Faubourg: she preferred it over Caleche, but doesn't find it sexy.
Hermès Eau des Merveilles: she really liked it.
Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel: she likes it, but for a summer day rather than a night out.
Yves Saint Laurent Opium: too heady and old-fashioned.
Chanel Coco: too sultry and exotic.
Chanel Allure: pretty, but just not distinctive enough.
Givenchy Hot Couture: delicous smell that she'd like as a room spray.
Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle: overpowering but she might try it again.
What say you?
Note: image is lettres by jenny downing at flickr; some rights reserved.
Prada Candy is a nice vanilla caramel fragrance. Very interesting, sweet enough to impress others.
It’s another beautiful creation from Prada, definitely worth trying!
I second Prada Candy.
First, I would send anyone in London to Ormonde Jayne. Tolu might be a winner if you’re looking for something warm, but definitely be sure to smell Ormonde Woman too! I’d also suggest sampling Hermes Ambre Narguile, L’Artisan Traversee du Bosphore, Dior Dolce Vita, and Ginestet Botrytis. And for a more modern, sophisticated take on florals, Puredistance Antonia is worth trying.
Was just about to suggest the same! Head straight to Ormonde Jayne and try everything – based on your taste I’d bet on Champaca, but they have something (great) for every taste and it’s all the kind of next-level stuff you are looking for.
Tolu is a great recommendation. I can’t get enough of it!
Agree – Puredistance makes sense!
What about Citizen Queen or Vengence Extreme by Juliette Has A Gun? CQ has a leather note. VE has vanilla, rose and patchouli, I think. It’s dark and seductive.
Chanel Coromandel!
Ditto – absolutely gorgeous, a real comfort scent of gingerbread/vanillic amber/benzion goodness. I see it as sexy, as my fiance always nuzzles me when I wear it.
Also second the suggestion of Prada Candy and Bottega Veneta. For more “sexy”, have you tried Cuir de Lancome or Chanel Cuir de Russie? I always think of the Dior Poison range for that oriental sexbomb, but it has never worked for me. Guys always say Chanel Coco Mademoiselle is sexy!
OK, I have said sex a lot!
I’m thinking Cuir de Lancome for toasty leather. The one caveat is that it’s discontinued, and while it’s easily found online in the U.S., I’m not sure if that holds true in the U.K.
Maybe also Chanel Cuir de Russie? It’s an older scent, to be sure, but I don’t necessarily find it old-fashioned.
Bvlgari Black might be worth a shot — leather, vanilla, not in the least old-fashioned, and definitely daring and sexy!
I’m also thinking of Etat Libre d’Orange Tilda Swinton Like This, for some reason. It has warm-gourmand elements, but the end result is quite different from anything else in that genre.
Seconding Chanel Cuir de Russie – especially in parfum!
Bulgari Black is definitely sexy! Great vanilla/leather fragrance. (I love it on men, personally.) Cuir de Lancome has less vanilla but dries down to an almost caramelly resinous scent.
For warm/cinnamon, try Feminite du Bois.
I think there have been some great suggestions already. But what about Bottega Veneta or Givenchy Organza Indecence?
Second Bottega Veneta!
Thirded Bottega!
There are several SLs I would suggest: Cuir Mauresque, Daim Blond, and El Attarine. I also second the Bulgari Black suggestion.
Anyone who lists cinnamon as a favourite note should give L’Artisan Tea for Two a sniff – it’s a smoky cinnamon tea scent, and to my nose it’s classy but not old.
Also, you might try Hypnotic Poison Eau Sensuelle – it’s a fresher take on HP, but the two still have much in common. (It’s probably sacrilegious, I prefer the Eau Sensuelle to the original.)
And L’Artisan Dzing! has leather, vanilla-ish tonka with woods (cedar, to my nose.) It’s one of my all-time favourites.
Other favourite leather scents of mine have been mentioned above, but I completely agree that anyone looking for a leather note should seek out Cuir de Lancome, Chanel Cuir de Russie and Bottega Veneta.
Happy hunting!
I’d love to try Tea for Two myself…
I’ve read recently that Tea for Two is being discontinued – by all means check it out quickly…
Oh, that’s sad to hear! It is well-respected, why discontinue?
I get the feeling it’s just a matter of keeping the line manageable. They’ve seen to have launched about 6 scents in the past two years or so…sad
Ooh, I love Tea for Two too.
first of all, give Hypnotic P a try if you can’t stop smelling it…
Dzing! L’Artisan, vanilla sugared leather!
second Coromandel
Un Bois de Vanille, Serge Lutens
I find Sensuous Noir, Estee Lauder quite attractive, not sure why
For vanilla–Diptyque’s Eau Duelle
For leather–Parfumerie Generale Cuir d’Iris or Parfum d’Empire’s Cuir Ottoman
For caramel– Marie St Pierre’s B
Lots of great suggestions already, but here are a couple I thought of as I read about Lucie:
-Try Eau Claire des Merveilles for lighter, fresher EdM. Classy and wearable for all situations.
-Try Parfums Delrae Mythique – iris and leather, light and very nicely done.
– Yes, Dzing! for a wild and crazy leather ride.
– Several Heeley fragrances might fit the reqs for various reasons – Cuir Pleine Fleur, Menthe Fraiche, Iris de Nuit…
– Parfums de Nicolai offers a variety that are reasonably priced and she often uses cinnamon in her fragrances.
– And Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille for a warm, sexy spicy vanilla and something completely different from all the others.
Best of luck to Lucie!
I second the Parfums de Nicolaï recommendation. A really classy line, and not very expensive. My personal favourites are Sacrebleu, and New York.
Oooh forgot the Tom Ford line – Private Blend and regular. I think Lucie might find something she likes. I find Tobacco Vanille and Jasmin Rouge quite gorgeous and very long lasting – I am a fragrance gobbler and most scents don’t last very long on me.
Yes, the de Nicolais have a quiet elegance. And Sacrebleu is a beauty.
It seems you may like gourmands. Give Serge Luten’s Jeux de Peau a try. It can be challenging and is not for everyone, but it may float your boat. This is not a typical gourmand.
For elegant and classic, try Jil Sander No. 4.
I also agree with Bottega Veneta, and all things Ormonde Jayne. For a special evening, Ta’if Parfum.
many of my recs already mentioned: bulgari black, dzing!, bottega veneta, so I’ll add Kelly Calèche (Hermes), Puredistance M in the leather catogory. There’s a new maitre gantier & parfumeur out which could be also interesting (sorry haven’t checked – cuir fetiche or something similar). Just for the kick of it you might want to try absolue pour le soir (Francis Kurkdjian), and Felanilla (parfumerie generale)
Why not get a sample set from Parfums d’Empire? Cuir Ottoman has already been suggested but you might also like Ambre Russe and Wazamba, and the whole line is very much worth exploring.
Histoires de Parfums has some gorgeous fragrances as well, and they too offer a good sample program. I love their 1740, 1876, 1725 and Noir Patchouly.
Have you ever tried any Goutals? Songes might suit you as might Passion and maybe Gardénia Passion.
Have fun exploring!
Seconding these recommendations. I like almost everything Lucie has worn in her salad days, and am on a similar journey; the PdE sample set has been a revelation!
Oh and if you like Allure, you really ought to try Dior’s Dune! ( if you haven’t already)
Another line that can be explored easily and relatively cheaply is Divine. They do a sample set of all their fragrances. It’s a small French niche firm. They started in the late eighties, and have some really classy scents. My favourite is the original Divine from their women’s scents and L’Homme de Coeur for the men. Last year they released the original Divine in extrait which makes it even more lovely. If you want to find them just google the name, they are based in Brittany, France and have excellent customer service. I am not affiliated!
Since you’re in London, I would say get thee to Roja Dove’s perfumery in Harrod’s. I’m a big fan of his, especially his own Unspoken (a beautiful chypre). Tom Ford is quoted as calling Dove’s perfumery, “the most inspiring, distinctive and lavish perfumery anywhere.”
For cinnamon, SL Rousse.
I wish I were in London right now because the idea of heading to Roja Dove’s and Ormonde Jayne would be dreams come true and – more to the point – good ideas as well. Ormonde Woman is very unique, an amzing scent I think you’d enjoy. And try Kelly Caleche from Hermes as well – it might suit you and is less well-known.
another roasted toasted vanilla+cinnamon Ambre Narguille: labdanum, benzoin, vanilla, tonka beans, roasted sesame seeds, cinnamon, coumarin, orchid.
for a soft and sexy leather with some floral underpinnings, I suggest Heeley’s Cuir Plein Fleur
And I second the Perfume de Nicolai Sacrebleu, Chanel Cuir de Russie, and if you like a sexy jasmine, The Different Company’s Jasmine de Nuit, which I personally find sexier than Annick Goutal’s Songes. It’s a bit indolic: yum.
I love Jasmin de Nuit! Yes!
Agree with Jasmine de Nuit!
That Heeley is beautiful!
and Musc Ravageur, Edition Frederick Malle try the oil concentration of this one as well. Its really nice
Parfums MDCI – Vepres Siciliennes.
It’s a journey-taker. It has amazing opening and warm, noticeable, well-balanced basenotes. It is an absolutely signature.
Vepres Siciliennes Notes
mandarin, grapefruit, peach, pepper, green leaves, cardamom, muguet, magnolia, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, tuberose, heliotrope, osmanthus, raspberry, cloves, plum, coconut, musk, amber, oakmoss, cedarwood
I was going to say Ormonde Jayne Tolu and Woman as well. But here are some other ideas:
Bois 1920 Sushi Imperiale for a spicy vanilla
Mona di Orio Vanille for a gorgeous, slightly smoky vanilla
The Different Company: Oriental Lounge, sheer, modern amber-vanilla with amazing curry leaf twist.
Arquiste Anima Dulcis for Mexican chocolate, vanilla and spices without sweetness
Amouage Lyric Woman for a deep, spicy Middle Eastern rose scent that might work on you
I’ll take a bottle of every single one of those, please.
Patricia de Nicholai actually has a shop in London, so you should go check it out (wish I could come with!). She has two really interesting vanillas: Vanille Tonka and Vanille Intense that I think are rich and sexy. Her other orientals might interest you as well.
Seconding Tonka Vanille and OJ Tolu.
Have you tried Chanel 22 or Bel Respiro?
3rd PdN Vanille Tonka – fell in love at first whiff…it’s not a sweet-young vanilla. If this came in body lotion, I’d bathe in it (not that I need to tell anyone…)
All my new recommendations are Guerlains (and you did say price was no object!). For a soft, vanillic leather, Cuir Beluga. For a more ambery take, Elixirs Charnels Oriental Brulant. For a vanilla with a green touch at the beginning (looking forward to wearing this spring), Angelique Noir. Seconding Traversee du Bosphore, Organza Indecence. Also, Bvlgari Omnia is a nice, lighter, spicy frag. Good Luck! Sounds like we have similar tastes.
second organza indecence!
Seconding Omnia! Surprisingly sexy without being pushy or over-the-top.
Definitely go play with the Chanel Exclusifs—Cuir de Russie and Coromandel as others have mentioned, also 31 Rue Cambon. And, based on Angela’s review, perhaps Chanel No. 19? In any case, I don’t think you can go wrong with Bottega Veneta, it’s a mighty fine leather.
Before I read that Lucie found Chanel Coco “too sultry and exotic”, it was the first perfume to come to my mind to suggest.
Perfumes to try::
Bottega Veneta
Hermes Kelly Caleche
Bvlgari Jasmin Noir
Tom Ford Black Orchid
Estee Lauder Sensuous Noir
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle
Serge Lutens/Shisedo Feminite du Bois
Givenchy Organza Indecence
Theirry Mugler Angel
Prada Candy
Geurlain Shalimar Parfum Intial
Gosh, most of my suggestions have been mentioned already so I will just strenuously second Bulgari Black and Cuir de Lancôme. And I would add Jo Malone’s Amber and Lavender- it is just gorgeous and hits a lot of your requirements without being too ‘too’, if you see what I mean. Also, Donna Karan Essences Wenge is warm cinnamony woody spicy goodness. Ooh and that reminds me of Kenzo Amour- ‘spicy wood pudding’ as Robin put it! I know House of Fraser carries the DK Line and the Kenzo.
I really must get my bottom in gear and get into Ormonde Jayne! I live a 20 minute train ride from London but never seem to get in there. Largely because I have 3 and 5 year old daughters who would love to help Mummy shop for a new ‘furfume’ as the little one puts it!
Awww…. I *love* furfume. How sweet.
She lives in London — Theo Fennell’s Scent is a no-brainer, as are a variety of Ormonde Jaynes! (Woman, Tolu, Ta-if). Based on her preferences I would also say Lolita Lempicka is perfect, and easy to get anywhere. It’s super herbal-y, anise-y in the beginning but a fabulous musky, vanilla drydown. Classy but also funky, edgy, sexy.
I havent read ALL the comments so i might be repeating, but if u like warm, kinda dark and leather, but still be a lady, give a try to Boxeuses by Serge Lutens,,, and is from the exclusive range so its pretty unique
Serge Lutens and L’Artisan, try to sample as many as you can and you will find at least 5-10 you must have I promise.
Prada Candy for day, Kelly Caleche for country all day and/or evening out dancing, and Chanel Coco Mademoiselle for dinner-date! These were 3 of my FB purchases last year, among others
Agree with many of the suggestions above and adding, for spice, Frapin Caravelle Epicee and 1697.
Chiming in for PdN’s Sacrebleu and also recommending JHAG’s Calamity J (woods, amber and leather but perhaps not warm enough) and Tauer’s L’Air du Desert Marocain (warm, spicy and very sultry).
I was going to suggest Prada Candy as well~ but instead, how about Jimmy Choo? it’s very cozy with toffee. : ) Hermes Amber Narguile. Angel (when worn correctly) is very seductive. I just ordered some samples from Smell Bent and they have some vanillic/spiced concoctions you might like. Check out the website. Good Luck!
Hmmm, so many GREAT suggestions above – there were so many!
I second: Coromandel and Cuir de Russie, both are incredible.
I also second: Ormonde Jayne – Ormonde Woman is incredibly modern, chic and warming – Tolu and Orris Noir are probably right for what you’re looking for.
For Vanilla, I would suggest MOna di Orio’s Vanille. It isn’t too gourmand but just delicious all the same! Her Tubereuse is a watery, dusky take on the flower which you could compare to Criminelle.
Parfumerie Generale is the first line I would suggest you check out for caramel/vanilla/leathery scents with sophistication. Aiomassi, Musc Maori, Felanilla, Cadjmere, Coze, Cuir Venenum.
Frederic Malle’s musc Ravageur is perfect for this cold London weather, as is Le Labo’s Patchouli 24 (a dash of vanilla in the undertones tames it for ‘women’s wear’!)
I think you need to visit and rummage through my perfume collection as it sounds like we’re pretty similar! As well as a trip to Ormonde Jayne I’d recommend spending a happy afternoon in Liberty’s – they have the *best* perfume department and the staff – in my experience – are really helpful – and usually give you a fistful of samples too! Also, a visit to Les Senteurs to sniff and sample. Plus, they carry Amouage which, if money really is no object, you may just want to explore for the hell of it. They might not be to your taste but I think everyone should sniff them just to appreciate the sheer quality.
Can only second (third? fourth? fifth?) some of the suggestions above:
Givenchy Organza Indecence (sexy cinnamon and vanilla) – you can get a huge 100ml bottle from Harrods
Parfums d’Empire Cuir Ottoman (had a man stop me when I was in a bar just to tell me how good I smelled!)
Bottega Veneta (my current favourite everyday scent – absolutely delicious and sexy in a quiet way – soft suede and apricots)
Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur (for when you don’t want to be subtle at all)
Ormonde Jayne ‘Woman’ and maybe also give Orris Noir a try if you like the idea of iris but need something that packs more of a punch
L’Occitane are, I understand, re-releasing their ‘Amber’ perfume – keep an eye out for it – rediscovered an old half bottle I had lying around and it’s a delicious, warm scent. I’ve been layering it with the Bottega Veneta
Caron Perfum Sacre Intense
Amouage Epic Woman – this might not be you at all but give it a squirt. Yes, it’s got rose in it but it’s also warm and spicy and has both cinnamon and vanilla in it. I wore it on my wedding day, I’m wearing it today. It nearly bankrupt me to buy it but it is absolutely beautiful
ormonde jayne woman, ormonde jayne orris noir, chanel cuir de russie, chanel sycomore
Happy Valentine’s Day to all… SOTD Eau Sauve I think! The roses seem appropriate…
For the leather fragrance I would say Kelly Caleche by Hermes. Smooth leather accompanied by a light bouquet of rose and vanilla.
Warm sexy vanilla I would suggest Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens.