I forgot to post the Monday Mail on Monday, again! Here it is, a day late.
Today we’re helping Eleni, who lives in Romania and has just finished a degree in theater directing. She'd like to find a daytime perfume she could wear to rehearsals. It shouldn't offend or distract others, but it should help her confidence and make a statement — a "creative-signature work-scent". She can pay up to $130, and she is happy to shop online.
Here are some more details about Eleni:
She's an art- and film-buff with a somewhat moody personality. She wears simple unisex clothes, earthy/green tones, the occasional splash of color. She says she looks "like the plump version of Shirley Manson from Garbage back in the nineties".
She has strong views on life and enjoys the simple pleasures. She likes housecleaning, opera, Russian and Japanese literature, American poetry, Poland, art-scouting and art-squatting, festivals, collecting old/vintage clothes for theater costumes, mahjong, mikado, chess, poker and swimming.
Eleni likes notes of cedar, fir, aniseed, iris, honeysuckle, almond, nutty notes, incense, leather, suede, verbena, and ripe fruits. She says she has a love-hate relationship with patchouli and vetiver, and she likes spices (clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom) only if they are balanced by something green. She loves the Guerlinade accord, and Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue were instant loves. For "evening wear" she wears Guerlain Nahema, L'Occitane L'eau d'Iparie and The Different Company Jasmin de Nuit, but they are all too feminine for her daytime scent. The Different Company Bois d'Iris, Guerlain Cologne du 68 and Chanel No. 19 are all close to what she's after for her daytime perfume.
Eleni dislikes rose+pepper (The Different Company Rose Poivre), tuberose or gardenia (she likes them when they're not in perfume though), heavy gourmand or ozonic/fresh notes, citrus fragrances, pear and apple, rubbery or plastic accords. Perfumes she doesn't care for include Dior Poison, Chanel Egoiste, Lolita Lempicka, Davidoff Cool Water, Nina Ricci Nina, Givenchy Ange ou Demon, Dior J'Adore, Gucci Rush, Kenzo Jungle, L'eau Par Kenzo, the new Lanvins, most Lancomes.
Here are some of the perfumes she has tried:
Dior Dioressence, Hermes 24 Faubourg, Molinard Habanita, Guerlain Shalimar, Burberry Classic: she admires them but they don't suit her.
Guerlain Apres l'Ondee: too sad.
Eau d'Italie Bois d'Ombrie: cloying and agressive.
Thierry Mugler Womanity: she likes the smell but finds it overwhelming.
Love, Chloe: too perfumey and indistinct.
Hermes Voyage: no.
Hermes Kelly Caleche: reminds her of a friend who wears it.
Guerlain ldylle: synthetic floral hand-grenade.
Robert Piguet Bandit: She likes it, but it's too agressive and demanding.
Sisley Eau de Campagne: too sharp and linear.
Bulgari Rose Essentielle: boring.
Guerlain Cuir Beluga: far too sweet.
Etat Libre d'Orange Jasmin et Cigarette: acceptable but fleeting.
Etat Libre d'Orange Like This: interesting but distracting.
Lubin Vetiver: smells good on her boyfriend but not on her.
What say you?
Note: image is Southgate Street by Martin Pettitt at flickr; some rights reserved.
Interesting! Eleni, my initial thought is L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Dzongkha, though some people have trouble with the longevity of L’Artisan scents (I don’t – they all last a long time on me, so wanted to mention it in case you haven’t tried it). Notes from Robin’s review here on NST: peony, lychee, cardamom, tea with milk, vetiver, incense, cypriol (a grass used to make papyrus), cedar, leather and iris.
Dzongkha sprang to my mind instantly!
wow! sounds excellent and probably has tons of personality as a perfume. hope i can live up to it
I say Serge Lutens Bas de Soie—Luckyscent calls it a “green-tinged, stripped-down descendent of Chanel N°19,” and I agree heartily.
SIlk Stockings would be a wonderful theatre scent
Second Bas de Soie-beautiful Iris
For Iris- VC&A Bois D’Iris,
Parfumerie General Iris Oriental
For Incense -Josef Statkus
M.Micallef Shanaan
L’Artisan Passage D’Enfer
Should Try- Feminite Du Bois
L’Artisan Al Oudh
Chanel Chance Eau Tendre
Sonoma Scent Studio-Champagne du Bois
-Winter Woods
I second Féminité du Bois. It’s understated beauty in a bottle.
Second Champagne de Bois and would add to sample others in the SSS list.
these all go right on top of my sample list ! thanks !
If the orangey top notes aren’t objectionable (I find them very fleeting), Eau des Merveilles may be worth a shot — definitely a good everyday scent, and very woody. For something green, maybe Futur?
and Chanel’s Bois de Iles!
Serge Lutens Douce Amere came to mind first.
That’s strange. Douce Amere came to mine first, too! Great fragrance.
Also: Niki de St. Phalle, sprayed lightly. (If it’s as cheap in Romania as it is here, why not? And the bottles are awesome.)
Oh yes, excellent suggestion, and I am going to go put some on right this minute. Very distinctive, but not a sillage monster and not at all sweet. Love that marigold note.
Yeah, me too — also love how the scent balances subtlety and ass-kickery, for want of a better description.
And you know it would probably blend really well with all the theatre smells…the old costumes, old wood, dust, etc
Definitely! What a great affinity.
Excellent recommendation, I think!
Maybe Ormonde Woman would work (or maybe some of the others from the Ormonde line; the sample set is lovely and not unreasonably priced).
Also maybe something from the CdG incense line – Kyoto or Zagorsk?
I am seconding Ormonde Jayne Woman!
the OJ Woman seems to be getting lots of love here so I think I.ll get a sample very soon. the black hemlock note sounds to die for
I like many of the same notes as Eleni – for cooler weather I would agree with Kate of OJ’s Woman. For warmer weather, she may like Etro’s Heliotrope. I consider it a slightly nutty light floral that is cooling in warm weather.
Heliotrope is my marzipan favourite :).
„nutty light floral” sounds wonderful. Must try!
Seconding the Ormonde Woman, it sure makes a statement but it wears close to the skin. A good alternative to Chanel 19 would be Chanel’s own 28, La Pausa, a gorgeous iris scent, rather melancholic but all the more beautiful.
Yes! 28 La Pausa is stunning. I also recommend Cristalle. She should try both concentrations, though. They’re different and beautiful in their own way.
Oh, Woman for sure! It is amazing!
When I saw anise, almond and leather I immediately thought of Annick Menardo. I recommend that you try Bulgari Black, a contemporary classic that you can find for well under $100. You might also try Dior Bois d’Argent — same perfumer and has an iris note.
Seconding Bois d’Argent — it’s a stunner.
How about Maison Martin Margiela’s Untitled? (Robin reviewed it here recently–notes are galbanum, boxwood, mastic, incense, bitter orange, jasmine, cedar and musk.) It’s very green and not too overpowering, and lots of people have commented on a nutty note in it. I didn’t get any orange from it at all.
Good minds think alike.
Mastic is something that foe sure I haven.t smelled in any perfume so far. MMM sounds very intriguing!!
Maison Martin Margiela Untitled.
I would also like to suggest Annick Goutal Mandagore Pourpre. **don’t be too startled about the black pepper note – it’s not noticeable to my nose, but as always, sample first **
The fragrance incorporates bergamot, mint, star anis, aromatic herbs and spices, along with amber, rosemary, geranium and black pepper. A base adds heliotrope, incense, patchouli and myrtle.
Etat’s Like This is so fun and unique. Since you like clove, I’ll also recommend Sarah Horowitz’s LOVE. Also, have you tried Serge’s Jeux de Peau?
This is challenging…I second Bois des Iles (mostly ’cause I think everyone should wear it) and thought, too, of Cristalle Eau Vert, which is a quiter version of her big sister. 24 Faubourg Eau Delicate is also a possibility – it’s a light floral, really different from the original.
I would also recommend Aimez Moi (violets spiced with anise and mint, close to Apres L’Ondee but not that fragile), and maybe the even more confident diva Tabac Blond (sensual leather and carnations)! Both Caron, now that I’m thinking about it
Rousse by Serge Lutens: a very cinnamon-y scent., a little sweetish and it has a nice airy feel after a while.
Style by Jil Sander: A creamy skin scent, with notes of freesia, mango and cardamom at the top, and a blur of florals in the middle; violets, magnolia, iris, jasmine. A light oriental? A wood pudding with some green mixed in? It’s hard to describe, but worth a try.
I am oficially drooling over your suggestions
Hello Eleni,
I think you might try Hermes Hiris, Hermes Eau de Merveilles ,and Annick Goutal Ninfeo mio. All of them have already been reviewed here on NST, so you could figure out if the are for you.
I am also happy you like Poland ( I am originally from there, but live in the US) ! I am noe in my hometown of Krakow, enjoying the city and new perfume shops.
Good luck!
Hiris and Ninfeo Mio! Good taste!
Thanks!
If I could choose where to live, I.d have a hard time choosing between Krakow and Gdansk
Enjoy your hometown, it.s fantastic indeed!
Wow, i am flattered. I was born in Krakow and went to college here.. to the Stary Theatre during its best times… Gdansk and Wroclaw are two other Polish cities I like..
Going “home” to the Pacific Northwest on Monday…
Please, let me know what perfume ypu settled with.
PS. Be aware that Caron Tabac Blonde is so much different than it used to be. I purchased a bottle, but it is a bit disappointing.
Behemot and Eleni – I was fortunate to visit Krakow around 1990. So lovely – I particularly remember sitting along the main city square on a Sunday watching children chase pigeons and seeing an elegant wedding party – the bride and groom in a fancy horse-drawn carriage with other riders on elegant horses. They went all around the square, stopping on each side. And there was a museum with a Da Vinci – the lady with an otter, I think. Amazing place!
Montana Parfum D’Peau, although there are some roses. Le Baiser Du Dragon is also a good choice. For me, the perfect one would be Kelly Caleche, but her friend uses.
I live in Romania too, and i’m happy to hear about a perfume lover. I know only a few here…
I bet on Serge Lutens Bois de violette and Etro Palais Jamais, Hermes Eau de Gentiane Blanche (musk, iris, incense, gentiana). Maybe Heeley Esprit du tigre (cardamom, clove, mint, cinnamon, green notes). What about the Hermes Jardins?
I.m glad we.re getting more and more choices about perfume in Romania, even though the more exclusive stuff is sooo overpriced (taxes etc.), don.t you think? Thanks so much for the perfume suggestions. Gentiane blanche and me are not friends, i.m afraid, but I will definitely give the Jardins a new sniff
I have just sampled Gentiane Blanche a few days ago ad initially liked it, but the dry down reminded me of ..Secretions Magnifique, so I quit.. But it smells great on other people , i admit.
Very fond of Bois de Violette and Palais Jamais – both are definitely worth sampling!
Gosh. I saw woods and spices and wanted to suggest Amouage Epic, but too expensive. . .may be fun to sample anyway?
Serge Lutens Douce Amere and Parfumerie Generale Cadjmere both have a wonderful anise-y thing going that you may like.
Serge Lutens Daim Blond, which is a wonderful apricot leather scent, would also be worth a try.
Seconding SL Daim Blond – it was the first thing that came to mind when I read that Eleni enjoys leather, fruit and drier scents!
How about Prada Infusion d’iris? It’s fresh and professional and very office friendly, I can’t imagine anyone finding it cloying. But it’s also got enough personality to be a signature scent for the right person.
The price and availability is good too.
Actually, since I sent the application for the Monday Mail, in the meantime I am a happy wearer of Infusion d.Iris (gift from bf). You described it perfectly, I reach for it very often, but I find it somewhat subdued for what I look for. But it was a nice coincidence to see you mention it
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the wonderful perfume suggestions!! I.ll sure have a busy summer sampling as much as i can of those
Except for the Hermes-es, Le baiser du dragon (excellent perfume, but maybe after i turn thirty :)) ) and Tabac Blond, I haven.t tried any of these and I.ll be more than justified to indulge :)) The Serge Lutens Douce Amere sounds amazing and there are also quite a few other suggestions that seem right up my alley. The Niki de St Phalle has me intrigued but I m not sure I can find it in a brick.n.mortar store where I live.
Anyhow, I.m glad that Robin enabled me in this, and also I.m quite happy I could conjure the oh-so-particular smell of old theaters in your perfumista hearts. I wish you all a lovely summer and I.ll try to keep posted about the discoveries I make through sampling all these beauties.
I really think you’d appreciate many from the LesNez line:
– “Let me Play Lion” – a subtle, dewy incense (odd, I know) that slowly builds into a vaporous puff of pencil-like woods that remind me of a theater stage.
– “The Unicorn Spell” – very green, a hazy, crisp iris, with a cool, mineral kick.
More sweet woods and ripe fruits
! :
– “Luctor et Emergo” People of The Labyrinths (I think the EDT is cheaper than the EDP?) – a cherry-sweet, benzoin woodsiness, with a creamy kick of sandalwood and ripe berries.
– “Bois des Isles” Chanel – I just love this woody blend (I bring it up all of the time – they know :D). I love how it starts off oddly like crunchy leaves, only to warm into a creamy-soft incense.
– “Tamara Lempicka” from Crazy Libellule and The Poppies (in fact, if you love film, try the entire garconnes line – they hint at classic fragrances, but add a modern freshness). This a sweetly green absinthe kick, with a softness to it. These are tiny roll-ons, but are super cheap and I find they actually last quite a long time. A little goes a long way.
– “Iris Noir” Yves Rocher – The second most affordable, a velvety, deep iris, with a kick of ripe fruitiness (almost wine-like). Bright and fresh (and cheap!) despite it’s name and the depth of its iris note.
– Lavanila “Vanilla Lavender”. Fresh and soft, smells kind of like a richer version of Johnson’s Baby Shampoo (someone else mentioned this and they were correct), but deepens into a creamy, vanilla smokiness. Not highly floral, but still fresh and smoky.
Wildcards:
– “1000” by Jean Patou. A grassy, dried floral blend with a crunchy greeness and subtle fruitiness to it. It’s a different kind of floral. Rich, but not ripe and voluptuous. Has a woody quality to it that’s smoothed over by a green nectariness, with a sharp but pretty osmanthus cutting through the other flowers. If you like iris, you might like this blend because it has that dual etheral quality and tweedy, elegant richness that iris brings to a blend.
– Serge Lutens “Serge Noir”. I totally see a theater, film person (it’s very “silent film”) liking this weird, rosemary-menthol-camphor-anise and dark woods blend. It has a cherry-tobacco and ripe plum sweetness and a brisk saltiness to it. Some think it’s awful and jarring. I find it fresh and delightfully odd.
Good Luck :)!
Wait – another! You’d really love this one!
– “Caru” by Fragrances of Ireland (the house that does the more well-known oceanic herbal blend, “Inis”). Ripe, autumn fruits with leathery woods, a soft flower that smell like iris to me and a kick of something golden, like reisling. Really affordable. Really addictive.
One last one! “Perfumed Wine” by A Perfume Organic! Rich, berry woods, a golden honey-like quality. Sweet, hint of cinnamon and nutmeg, but very smooth. I love it. It’s also a totally guilt-free buy, with low environmental impact.
Eleni, I love the sound of your life – you deserve a very special perfume!
L’AP Dzing! is a lighter leather that works for day. On the fruit-leather theme, L mentioned SL Daim Blond, above, already, and Duchaufour did two fruit leathers that remind me of that, L’AP Traversee du Bosphore and MDCI Belle Helene (but the latter is expensive, I guess). TDC Osmanthus has that apricot scent and is light and crisp. It’s always worth trying Etro Shaal Nur and the beautiful SL Bois de Violette.
By the way, Hilde Soliani did a whole theater series, because her father was in theater. I’ve tried and liked some of them but don’t remember which is which at the moment.
Timbuktu, L’Artisan
Comme des Garcon 3
Brin de Reglisse, Hermessence
Eau Noir, Dior
Cristalle EDT or EdP