Oud, or (most often) a synthetic chemical resembling its aroma, has established itself as a major fragrance note (and scent category) over the last ten years, but even with all the oud perfumes for sale, few people have smelled authentic oud. I’m guessing most perfume lovers (fanatics) no longer regard oud, or ‘Middle Eastern,’ scents as ‘exotic’ — oud perfumes are just another option in an overcrowded fragrance market. (Personally, I need a break from oud!)
The company SoOud was founded by Stéphane Humbert Lucas of Nez à Nez, who describes himself as a “painter-aesthete” who “writes and sculpts aromas.” The ‘oud’ in SoOud perfumes, if there is any oud in the formulas, is conjured by rich fragrance notes delivered in a Middle Eastern style.
Asmar, “the dusky one,” contains bergamot, white honey, carnation, roasted coffee, amber cigar, Grape marc, amber, tobacco leaf, chamois, musk and vanilla. I like the first minutes of Asmar best: a bold mix of honey and “amber cigar” (a creamy, sweet tobacco note). As the perfume develops, it becomes smoother, more gourmand. Many of the fragrances in the SoOud line provide a whiff of ‘chocolate-oud’ (as if you’re sniffing a dark chocolate bar filled with musky nougat); I don’t know if this is the way the ‘oud’ note smells in this line or if it’s an accord added to all the SoOud fragrances.
In Asmar, sweetness rules: from the quirky mix of grape and coffee to a hint of leather and MUCH vanilla and musk. This amber fragrance, thanks to the tobacco, has a talc-y barbershop vibe in the extreme dry-down. The lasting power of Asmar is good and its sillage is mild considering the density of the perfume itself.
As I tried the eight perfumes in the SoOud line, I realized they are hefty, hazy fragrances — a bit thick around the middle with their fatty, ‘indulgent’ notes. Nur in particular is a feminine-floral powerhouse…a perfume that lasts for days on skin and (still counting) weeks? on fabric. Al Jana smells of ‘oud brulée’ and dry cocoa. If you prefer light, dry, or sparkling fragrances, I doubt any SoOud perfume will interest you.
SoOud Asmar is available in 60 ml Eau Fine (Eau de Parfum), 148€ (in white bottle) and in 30 ml Parfum, 175€ (bottle as pictured above). Currently the SoOud line is available at First in Fragrance in Germany.
Note: top image is A Qajar prince and his attendant 1820 via Wikimedia Commons.
I thank you for the introduction to this line, though I am getting the impression I should approach with caution. It’s rather easy to veer too far into “sweet” or “gourmand” when my nose is the one driving. On the other hand, amber, tobacco, quirky (grape + coffee? is that the grape marc? mmm, grappa…) are all descriptors that push me to at least try.
I understand oud fatigue. It certainly has blanketed the market, hasn’t it?
But I’ll take an oud overload over the fruity scents that seem to dominate any day. That’s just me 😀
Kelly: for me I guess it depends on the fruit and on the weather…after all my recent oud trials I’m going for some orange, lemon, lime and tangerine scents.
Ooooh, tangerine might be the one citrus I can get behind….any suggestions?
Kelly, yeah…for me, oud leads to an instinctual “can I handle it?” reaction, but prepared to lean in and try. “Fruity floral” leads to a default “can I handle it?” reaction, but I’ve already got one foot running out the door. 😉 But that’s just me; I can see somebody else having the reverse. 🙂
I agree with you as far as oud overload and also the gourmand aspect of t his being perhaps too much for me, and I also agree with Kelly Red in preferring the oud overload to the fruity-floral one.
Jolie: soOuds are dense…and a few are on the verge of “edible”
SS: yes, and I got ANOTHER oud sample in the mail today!
It’s happening. “They’re out there.” 😉
With the honey-tobacco-gourmand notes, would you say this is similar at all to By Kilian’s Back to Black? Heavier? Or even sweeter?
Janice…going on memory alone, this may be a tad less sweet and it feels a bit heavier.
Im actually just getting into Oud, but none of these sound like they are for me if you say they lean toward gourmand. I think ill stick to the Montale line for now.
Rictor: Montales are mostly “austere” compared to these.
That’s a telling statement!
I didn’t care for the Nez a Nez line at all, and it sounds like this might be similar. I think you put the nail in the coffin with “lasts for days on skin”; even Bois des Iles lasts all day on me.
Agreed, I’m not sure I’m willing to commit to a fragrance for that long, no matter how lovely!
Halimeade: I got Nur on a wool coat…a nightmare.
Hi Boojum.
I too had a problem with the Nez a Nez line. I really TRIED to like these fragrances, but there was something overbearing about them initially, and if I remember correctly I was too impatient to wait for improvement in the dry down.
My favorite oud so far is Midnight Oud by Juliette Has A Gun. Also the Tom Ford’s with oud are pretty darn good.
Agree on both… I just got a JHAG Midnight Oud for my best friend for her birthday, the poor thing was still fooling around doling out the sample I gave her a year ago of it! Took a quick sniff before packaging it up, it really is so likable. Is it considered fair game as an oud? I feel like I’m cheating with it as far as ouds go, I almost get a sparkle out of it. Its like an oud for people who haven’t had luck with others. Really is a great fragrance imo.
boojum: ah…then these could be dangerous for you!
I got to sniff two types of real oud at Enfleurage when I was in New York last year. That’s how I know it’s not for me. 🙁 Coffee, honey, amber, tobacco? Mmmmm … I love all of those notes. Sounds like this might be good in very small doses.
Aparatchick. One spritz.
I’ve been interested in various Ouds, haven’t tried any from this line but it sounds wonderful, all the notes I love to wear. The phrase that hooked me was “dark chocolate bar filled with musky nougat” that’s all you needed to say Kevin!
Of course, I’ll have to wait for the seasonal allergies to calm down but then I’m off to sniff!
Smokey: hope you enjoy them!
I don’t think I can afford to come sniffing with you in Germany!
Oops…., I was so excited I didn’t read that part… *sheepish* grin.
I hear Rose Oud (By Kilian) is very good, has anyone tried this?
I didn’t care for the rose used in this one, but I think lots of folks here loved the fragrance. I believe Daisy hosted a split of it.
Sarahbeth: it was nice enough…but didn’t really hold my interest.
I was underwhelmed by it and everyone thought I was nuts. It has a lot of fans.
I’m a huge Calice Becker fan and love her BK Rose Oud. I also love sniffing Amouage Homage Attar but don’t wear it outside my home – it’s very intense. I’d encourage you to sample both, as well as other commenters’ favs.
I really like Rose Oud. It is much more of a candied rose scent than an oud one, which is fine by me because I’m not a huge fan of oud anyway. It reminds me of a more candied Montale Oud Rose Petals.
(Thanks everyone for your input! I will eventually get a sample of this…)
Funny, I wore my Tom Ford Oud Wood today, which is so far my favorite. I have sniffed many many – some go a bit soapy. It’s not over yet – I know of at least one perfumer working on one to throw in the mix (sworn to secrecy).
I am definitely interested in this line – I love this kind of richness now and again, and can always go for the tobaccos. Hopefully I’ll forget all about it and be surprised by it if it hits the US. Judging by some of the political hoo-hah around the line, might be a while.
Political hoo-hah?
Most likely becasue one of the fragrances in this series is named Burqa.
Tama: I like the Tom Ford too…the Le Labo oud as well.
I.MUST.GET.SAMPLES! These are right up my alley, aren’t they Kev? 😉
C: yes, I think so!
Do you know of a perfume containing real aoud?