The muffled world of perfume does not hide its concern and anger over European legislation continues to restrict the use of natural and synthetic materials for designers. "We're very worried, says, exasperated, Patrick Saint-Yves, president of the French Society of Perfumers (FPS). If you were running an association of painters and suddenly you are prohibited to use the blue?
— The Chrome browser's (middling, but what can you do?) translation from the original French in Parfums: chefs-d’œuvre en péril at Le Temps. The (long and detailed) article is about IFRA restrictions on modern perfumery. Found via the Tauer Perfumes Advent calendar; don't forget it's day 2!
It’s wonderful to hear that they’re finally waking up after I heard “We were asleep at the wheel” (when I interviewed a retired USA perfumer, who gave that quote when I asked how in all things holy did the perfume industry allow such IFRA/EU-driven restrictive nonsense take place). Perhaps with the big houses and societies taking a stance, or at least making a mild statement, such as the FSP, we can avoid a crash into a ditch, which could destroy the industry as we know it.
I don’t know that anybody is really taking a stance…once again, the only perfumers they got to make statements were from the smaller independent houses. Nobody from the big companies that make 95% of the world’s perfumes said a word.
And to put that the other way…the only perfumers who would talk didn’t have to worry about their jobs because they don’t work for the F&F companies that fund IFRA…
Robin, what is an F&F company? thanks : )
Fragrance & Flavor company. The big ones are International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF), Givaudan, Firmenich, etc
thank you Robin
I have never understood how it has reached this level in Europe? I mean they can prove that people have peanut allergies but the use of peanuts hasn’t been banned in products, they just need a warning label. Why are perfume ingredients any different? I understand it’s basically an industry now controlled by manufacturers of chemical scents or is this wrong?
You could argue that the industry is controlled by the big fragrance & flavor companies, yes, and they set up IFRA in the first place, and voluntarily agree to abide by IFRA rules.
Do you think it’s likea conspiracy theory against the smaller niche houses?
Like perhaps they feel a little threatened by them?
No, not at all.
And peanut allergies could be lethal.
I hope they gave Denyse over at Grain de Musc credit for that one. :/
For what one?
She said a year or so ago that banning ingredients was like prohibiting artists from using red.
Oh, good recall — I’d forgotten!
It’s an analogy that I myself have cribbed once or twice. ;P
Actually, that is an interesting analogy, since artists have been effectively banned from using certain pigments due to toxicity concerns. Many formerly common pigments which contained heavy metals and hence are no longer used in artists’ paints or are restricted. In other cases, the pigments may be used in artists’ paint but not in house paint (e.g. white lead), wallpaper, or printing ink.
I definitely think there’s a difference between heavy metal poisoning and a mild rash but it IS interesting to know. Too bad, though. Lead paints are so fantastically pretty. xD
There is most certainly a difference between heavy metal poisoning and its effects–diabetes, blindness, neurological problems, cancer–and the vast majority of adverse reactions to fragrance ingredients. Usually, the latter seem to be on the order of skin rashes, headaches, or mild respiratory distress. Such things are almost never fatal and almost always reversible. If oakmoss or citrus oils were as hazardous as white lead or Paris Green, I would totally understand the restrictions. As it is, I think the IFRA regulations are totally ridiculous and excessive. Just put advisory labels on the perfumes and leave it at that.
Definitely. But who ever said restrictions are always rational?
thanks for the link to this article!
R, thank you for posting the link. It is a very interesting overview of the recent developments. Actually, the way things work in the industry, it is even better to see some response from the client side (Demachy while working for Dior nevertheless is still a client of the suppliers,) because frankly, they often have much more weight.
As far as I know, Patrick Saint-Yves works for Takasago, which is a company that funds IFRA (along with Firmenich, Givaudan, IFF, Robertet, Symrise.)