Our subject today is Claire, who would like to find a signature scent for her first year of college. Claire is 18, and says she has "always loved the intricacy of classic perfumery" — her new fragrance should be rich and complicated, and should reflect her love of the classic and the unusual. She'd like to keep the cost under $150, and she'd prefer to shop online.
Here are some details about Claire:
Her style "tends towards the darkly feminine and poised, with a hint of the whimsical"...she likes to "combine the darkness, mystery and simplicity of 1930’s Hollywood with opulent, Marie Antoinette-like florals".
She is a classically trained pianist, and music plays a large part in her life.
Claire loves foreign and classic films, especially Bergman, Woody Allen, Hitchcock, and Fellini; she also loves the theater and reading.
She says she is passionate, determined, creative, introspective, and idiosyncratic.
Claire loves jasmine (she wouldn't mind a jasmine-centered fragrance if it had "a few small twists to keep it interesting"); she also loves rose, cedar, honeysuckle, spices, incense, myrrh, lavender, oakmoss, sandalwood, animalic notes, osmanthus, and lilac.
Claire doesn't like ozonic “sea” notes or intense citrus. She says she likes most well-made perfumes, but for some reason she can't stand Shalimar.
Perfumes Claire loves include...
Chanel Bois des Iles: "Delicious, woodsy, understated. I love everything from the interplay of flowers and woods to the high quality ingredients. It has a spiciness that I find very appealing, as well."
Shiseido Féminité du Bois: "Dusky, silky plums and violets streaming along a perfect cedar note. I can’t resist the inherent magic of perfumes like this."
Guerlain Mitsouko: "The spicy, musky peaches coupled with the sharp earthiness of chypre are intoxicating to me. Mitsouko strikes me as confident and romantic."
Etat Libre d’Orange Putain des Palaces: "Name aside, this fragrance always captivates me. I love the elegant flowers smeared with the slight hint of hot leather and powder. I wear this sometimes when I go out, usually for dates."
Guerlain Jicky: "It’s strong, but it still manages to be subtle and feminine. I like the modern sleekness of this old classic. I wear it when I want to feel very confident and analytical."
Yves Saint Laurent Paris: "Although sweet, this never gets on my nerves. It’s a very flirtatious and 'larger than life', and I adore it. I wear it while shopping and hanging out with groups of friends."
Chanel No. 22: "I love the unbelievably creamy florals and aldehydes, followed by a sad little wood base. It reminds me of Impressionist ballerinas and abandoned studios."
Frederick Malle Une Rose: "This complex and unusual take on a crimson rose is just the perfect balance between sensual and bizarre. Plus, I love the earthy truffles in the dry down."
Jean Desprez Bal á Versailles: "I wear this when I want to feel supremely sensual and comfortable. The syrupy indolic jasmine mixed with spice and animal notes is so sexy and dirty."
Donna Karan Black Cashmere: "I love the heady, peppery incense in this one, combined with everything dark, smoky, and hazy. It smells the way black cashmere feels. I wear it in winter, usually."
L'Occitane Jasmin d’Egypte: "Although their perfumes are generally pretty average, I love the jasmine/sandalwood combination and I think it’s well done. Of course, I’ve never met a jasmine I didn’t like."
What say you?
Note: image is Richmond Green by Mike_fleming at flickr; some rights reserved.
omg! Are you sure you are only 18?! What a wonderful nose you have for perfume!
I suggest sampling some Ormonde Jayne (I love woman myself and I love all the ‘fumes you list above!). I think Soivohle/Liz Zorn samples might be worth a sniff. I’m also enjoying Etat’s Tilda Swinton Like This…very smoky…
Have you sampled Chanel Sycomore or Coromondel?
Armani Prive Eclat de Jasmine comes to mind…and you can get it under $100 online.
Have you thought about crossing the “gender line” and trying fragrances aimed at men? This can be quite sensual and unexpected while still retaining the classic edge you love.
If so try L’occitane Eau de Baux – after the initial cedar blast it is a lovely incense with vanilla in the dry down.
I would also recommend M7 YSL, Givenchy Gentleman, Guerlain Habit Rouge and Caron 3rd Man.
I second the idea of trying men’s fragrances. Habit Rouge and The Third Man are lovely!
Oh, also Guerlain Derby. Tried it for the first time recently. Wow!
I haven’t really considered it in my shopping thus far, but L’Occitane Eau de Baux sounds lovely, cedar is so nice in the fall! I’ll have to check it out, thanks!
Have you tried FM Une fleur de Cassie? It’s plenty rich, complex and unusual and the cassie flowers seem to posses the same animalic character as jasmine.
According to the description on the FM website, it was even inspired by the 1930s era!
Second! This is what sprang to mind for me at first, too.
My second thought was Bond no. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory, a rich incensy fragrance – I find it a touch masculine, but bet you could pull it off.
Oh dear, I should have looked more closely at the price guidelines before I suggested Bond no 9! But if you poke around online you can find it for CLOSE to 150…
And they sell travel bottles, too. They used to be $50, but I think they went up to $70.
2nd Silver Factory…you can get a decant…
And Bond no. 9 Silver Factory sounds like it would be perfect, I love AG Encens Flamboyant just because the incense note is so intense and persistent.
Ooh, I love FM. Never tried Fleur de Cassie, but it’s been on my list for a while. It sounds great!
Hi Claire!
This will be fun recommending scents for you!
My first suggestion would be Jolie Madame by Balmain. It has Neroli and Coriander in the top notes, violet, jasmine, tuberose, and orris in the middle, and civet, tobacco, oakmoss, patchouli and vetiver in the base. This scent runs along the same lines of those you love already mentioned above. It can be found for a song at online discounters, I found a 3.4 oz bottle for under 40 U.S.
If you love woods/incense/plummy notes, my other suggestion would be Jo Malone’s Pom Noir. Beautiful fruity incense scent with excellent staying power. Notes are Plum, Raspberry, Pomegranate, pink pepper, incense and patchouli. It’s one of my favorite fall/winter scents. Have fun sniffing!
Thanks! These sound intriguing, especially Jo Malone Pom Noir. Nothing like a fruity woodsy scent in the autumn
I agree with Parfum Sacre and add Ormonde Jayne’s Ta’if…
I love Claire’s list of favorite perfumes — it reads very much like my own! Based on that, and based on her list of notes, I would recommend Caron Parfum Sacre (spicy, warm florals) and Serge Lutens Bois et Fruits (spicy, fruity cedar — rather like a brighter, fruitier Feminite de Bois).
In keeping with your love of jasmine, have you tried the simple but smoky Bulgari Jasmin Noir? Inexpensive and easy to find. I also love Keiko Mecheri’s Jasmin.
Montale has Jasmin Ful…I have not tried it though…
Montale’s Jasmin Full is full-on jasmine, taking no prisoners
I agree with the Coromandel. Very classic but with a femme fatale edge. Also, have you tride Etat Jasmin et Cigarettes?
I’m excited to try the Coromandel, it sounds awesome. And I have indeed tried Etat Jasmin et Tabac. I thought it was a deliciously savory/fruity and well balanced scent, but for me it’s one of those “only-when-I’m-in-the-mood” fragrances.
Hello, Claire. Two fragrances that are floral-based and work on any age range are Rampage Butterly ( red rose with hints of non-cloying fruit, on a vanilla base) and Ralph Lauren Notorious.
Alfred Sung Jewel and Jo Malone Nectarine Blossom & Honey are fresh floral/honeysuckle with no overwhelming citrus. Hope this helps!
This is fun! I am going to suggest two:
Bond No 9 Success is a Job in New York. It is a beautiful rich & spicy gourmand. Also, Serge Lutens Daim Blond, an elegant mix of white suede and apricot. Lovely! Both are currently available on discount fragrance sites and the price is within the range listed. Much success to you!
I wish I would have been this sophisticated at 18!
Definitely second the Jasmin et Cigarette and the Parfum Sacre. If you love Bois des Iles, you will most likely enjoy Sonoma Scent Studio’s Champagne de Bois – I often layer the two to give the BdI some staying power.
My last recommendation is L’Heure Bleue, but since you have some of the classic Guerlains on your list already I am sure you have tried this by now!
Forgot the Andy Tauers! L’air du desert marrocain and Le maroc pour elle could be interesting for you too.
Also Reverie au Jardin, a Lavender with oakmoss, galbanum and incense. It’s incredible! And his Incense Rose and Incense Extreme are worth a good try too.
Seconding the Champagne de Bois. That was one of my immediate thoughts upon seeing her list. Great choice!
Champagne de Bois sounds fabulous, can’t wait to try it. I have tried L’Heure Bleu, which I liked; the only problem is that it reminds me of my grandmother, who has worn the similar Coty Lorrigan every day for the last 40 years of her life!
Claire – I’d also recommend Laurie’s (Sonoma Scent Studio) other florals: Cameo, Lieu de Reves, Vintage Rose, etc.
The first thing that came to mind was Bal a Versailles…but that’s already on the list! Mitsy…on the list….
Jasmine and rose —maybe Jean Patou Joy ?
Ormonde Jayne Woman ….Amouage Lyric but for the price! A decant would work though.
Bal a Versailles was one of my picks too! Great minds….
two of the greatest….of course we’re modest as well…
Heheheheee…..
Ormonde Jayne Woman is stunning and unlike anything else. I think you’d like it, it’s dark and woodsy and yet has a warm amber note that simply vibrates at a deep level with warm energy.
With your love of myrrh and aldehydes, I would suggest getting a sample of Lutens La Myrrhe, though the sweet citrus may be more than you want. Gucci pour Homme is a wonderful frankincense composition. And Estee Lauder Private Collection (the original).
Wow! You have some beauties already! I share your love for Une Rose. Aside from the earlier suggestion of looking at some fragrances marketed to men, I will leave the recommendations to others more savvy about classic fragrances. Best wishes with your search!
For some reason Rose de Nuit popped up in my brain for you. Then I thought of Daim Blond. Both are SL. I know, neither are Jasmines, sorry, I am not all that well versed on variety.
Good luck in your search as I know all these commenters have wonderful ideas that will give you days and days of hunting and experimenting fun, if you are so inclined.
For Jasmine, what about A La Nuit by SL. It may be too singular for you.
I feel like I’m stating the obvious here, but Songes would be worth a try surely, doesn;t get much more jasminey than that. Also maybe fendi’s cinema – not sure what the notes are, but certainly has that older, more complex feel to it.
Claire, what a wonderfull taste you have! I hope I’ll be the first suggesting A la Nuit by SL. It’s a beautifull jasmine, a hint of animalics and woods. La Chaisse aux Papillons Extreme by l’Artisan is nice too bit more fresh with jasmin and gardenia. Get a sniff of Mariella Burani if you’ll get a chance! It’s old-school floral aldehydic, classy but cozy. Les Exclusifs Chanel sounds like very your type of perfume, if you haven’t tried Cuir Russe – do it now, it’s great
A girl after my own heart! Oh, too bad Amouage Gold is so far out of the price range (yours, mine, and everyone else’s), because I think you would love it. Others of interest in the more (sort of) affordable range: Bond No. 9 Chinatown, Tauer Une Rose Chypree, and Givenchy III Les Mythiques (which Ann S. recently introduced me to). Dang, there was one other thing, and now I can’t remember…
Idole de Lubin! That was the other one!
And Balenciaga Le Dix. Geesh, I’m not very on the ball today.
Oh, and Weil Antilope.
I second Parfum Sacre and Jasmin Noir. Jo Malone’s Honeysuckle and Jasmine might also be worth a try. it may be a bit sweet for you, for it’s a delightful scent that is greta for everyday (and can be layered with others JM scents as well). It’s being discontinued but is still widely available (if I haven’t bought up all the extant bottles!)
Well of course I think you have wonderful taste in perfume – you like several of my favorites!
My very first thought (before Bal a Versailles and Champagne de Bois) was Guerlain’s Samsara – a jasmine heavy floral with a beautiful sandalwood base. Do you mind shopping eBay? Because the best version is of course vintage – easily obtained there and well within your budget. You want the *clear* bottle in the red box with black on top. Second choice would be the slightly newer red bottle but still in the red box with black at the top.
I think you would also love Guerlain’s Chamade or Jardins de Bagatelle. Good luck and please let us know if your search is successful.
P. S. Also meant to say, please email me at rappleyea11 at yahoo dot com if you’d like samples of any or all of my recommendations.
Ah…- not very original, but what about Canel No 5 or Coco – there’s jasmin in #5 and probably your cohorts won’t be wearing the perfume (or EDT) version, plus not over budget –
oops- meant CHANEL No 5 – LOL
Hi Claire – what great taste you have
I’m going to throw out a vote for Divine (by Divine), which smells like classic French perfume with a 1950’s vibe. Definitely old school, and beautiful. Notes are peach, coriander, gardenia, Indian tuberose, May rose, oak moss, musk, vanilla, spice.
Good choice!
I agree, Claire–you have lovely taste.
You must try Parfums Delrae. Especially Amoureuse (big jasmine/tuberose that starts out with some cardamom and ends with a lovely potent honey musk drydown) and Bois de Paradise (fig, rose, woods). Amoureuse is one of my all-time favorites and has always struck me as a fragrance that a 30s or 40s film star would wear.
Other possibilities: Sonoma Scent Studio’s Tabac Aurea and Vintage Rose; other Etat Libre d’Oranges (especially Jasmin et Cigarette); and Andy Tauer’s L’Air du Desert Marocain.
I second the Amoureuse, one of my favorites. Just one spray, this is potent juice. Bois de Paradise has a berry note that can be hard to take for some people (like me), be sure to sniff before you buy (always, of course)…
I agree that Amoureuse would be a good one for you to try!
VERY sophisticated scent palate! Excellent choices and suggestions read here.
Since everyone’s covered pretty much all the ones I would’ve suggested via niche/mainstream, I’m going to plump for an indie – Liz Zorn’s Cordovan Rose (it’s not on her website but I think she’s still making it – I hope). A rich, plummy, dark, rosy leather. Perfect for autumn-into-winter!
xo
I wish I had such sophisticated tastes when I was your age!
However, you must try Vintage Miss Dior (though I realize this may not be the “signature” fragrance you are looking for, I do think you will appreciate it.
From the house of Caron:
Narcisse Noir
Montaigne -this certainly deserves much more attention
Parfumerie Generale Iris Orientale (formerly Iris Taizo)
Paestum Rose
EL Jasmine White Moss
EL Azuree
EL Aliage Sport
Any of the Andy Tauer’s
How could I forget Musc Ravageur?
The first thing that comes to mind is Jasmin de Nuit by The Different Company. It’s a warm, spicy, snuggly jasmine.
Claire…I admire your sensitivity and tastes! I discovered real perfume when I was 18 or 19ish and smelled Mistouko at the mall. Instant love. Sadly, not too many years after that they pulled it. Sigh.
We have some simlar tastes in notes.
My suggestions:
Caron Fleurs de Rocaille–Femme springy floral from 1934
Top note : Violet, Gardenia, Lilac, Rose Middle note : Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Mimosa Base note : Sandal, Rosewood, Orris, Musk.
Caron Narcisse Noir and Narcisse Blanc
Caron Tabac Blond (sexy tobbaco)
Caron French Cancan-It’s composed of white flowers, lilac, violet, rose, patchouli, iris, with an oakmoss base.
Patou Joy-Lots of jasmine, ladylike, (obvious choice, okay
Patou 1000 (“Mille”) -Slightly ripe florals, jasmine, osmanthus, over a classic base with sandalwood, civet and patchouli…classy, refined, elegant.
Guerlain Samsara
Piuget Fracas–full on white floral
10 Corso Como-Sandalwood.
Any andy Tauer with Jasmine, or Rose Chypree, L’air du Desert Marocain, Le Maroc Pour Elle
Nasomatto: Narcotic Venus-super tuberose jasmine “ultimate vixen perfume – feminine, sultry and warm, that manages to blend tuberose, lily and jasmine into a white floral that’s not indolic or cloying”
Carthusia La Ligea
Estee Lauder has some great old blends.
Estee Lauder Private Collections Jasmine & White moss-new retro soapy jasmine
Estee Lauder Cinnabar (cinnamon oriental)
Estee Lauder Original Private Collection-rich deep green floral
Notes: green notes, honeysuckle, linden, jasmin and orange blossom bulgarian rose, chrysanthemum, reseda, ylang-ylang, coriander, sandalwood, heliotrope, amber and musk.
Estee Lauder Youth Dew (kinda Bal a Versailles, I imagine.)
Top : Aldehydes, Orange, Spices, Peach, Bergamot.
Middle : Cinnamon, Cassia, Orchid, Jasmine, Cloves, Ylang-Ylang, Rose. Base : Tolu Balsam, Peru Balsam, Amber, Patchouli, Musk, Vanilla, Oakmoss, Vetiver, Incense.
happy sniffing!*
Also maybe worth trying Parfum de Nicolai’s Odalisque? Very classic, there’s a touch of jasmine in there as well. The Nicolai website’s hopeless, but it’s sold at First in Fragrance; I don’t know about US retailers I’m afraid.
Dark rose with myrrh? There is nothing better than Paestum Rose.
Another one to try, since you like FM’s Une Rose, is L’Artisan’s Voleur des Roses… It is a deliciously dark rose, storm-blown and earthy (for when that mood strikes you).
I would also suggest that you try FM’s Une Fleur de Cassie… although you don’t mention the notes specifically, I think that it is a very 1930’s screen goddess opulent sort of fragrance that you could probably pull off.
Definitely order a sampler set from Andy Tauer and start playing! Yes, rose Chyprée, and Maroc Pour Elle, but there are now many others…
I’ll be very curious what you finally decide on… Good luck, and keep us posted!
I’m usually no help whatsoever helping people in the monday mail.
but I do have some suggestions.
Chloé perfume, try the eau de toilette and the eau de parfum.
I haven’t tried Love, Chloe but might as well give it a shot.
John Galliano seems to fit the bill, but also I haven’t smelled that.
and dare I say Vivienne Westwood fragrances? they are kind of classic and “different”.
or maybe something by Chanel or Dior ?
but definitley try Chloé
hope this helps x
Ormonde Woman, for sure – at least, it’s definitely worth checking out.
Hello Claire! If you love jasmine scents, you should try Carthusia Gelsomini di Capri (jasmin from the island of Capri). It’s really a wonderful blend of 25 types of jasmine and has the classical, animalic signature of traditionally made perfumes. If you prefer a cleaner version but with a distinctive twist, try Le Labo Jasmine 17. Good luck with your search!
Check out Moni di Orio. SHe was trained by Edmund Roudnitska and is inspired by Guerlain. Her Lux scent feels like a contemporary homage to Jicky and her Musc/Ambre/Cuir Les Nombres D’Or are gorgeous meditations on those three ingredients.
The only jasmine I wear is Serge Lutens Sarrassins, for me the ultimate jasmine! Or Histoire des Parfums 1804 (Georges Sand) a floral amber or 1876 (Mata Hari) a spicy rose. Histoire is an excellent line!
Hi Claire. I agree: you have great taste! I also agree with many of the suggestions above and hope mine won’t overlap too much. I’m jotting down what comes to mind in haste, so forgive lack of detail; I’m sure others will fill you in!
– Annick Goutal’s Orientalistes, esp Myrrhe Ardente
– YSL Nu in EdP (though you may like the more flora, less ‘skanky’ / incensey EdT, too)
– I don’t generally like L’Occitane’s perfumes – for one thing they disappear on my skin and, though I’m glad of it in some cases, I wish Labdanum and Eau des Baux would stick around longer than 5 minutes – but you might perhaps like Eau d’Iparie (more myrrhe, some incense).
– I adore ELdO’s Putain (and Jasmin et Cigarette), too; maybe try Le Labo Rose 31 (a decant would surely be under $150, even if not a bottle!).
– Ormonde Jayne Ta’if has a similar vibe on me – and both are similar (again, in vibe if not actual notes) to Nu EdP.
– If you really like incense, I suggest Gucci pour Homme: fabulous stuff!
– For jasmine, apart from A La Nuit + Sarrasins, maybe try Keiko Mecheri and Patou’s Joy (as already suggested); and the DK Essence Jasmine is a simple soliflore (paraphrasing Luca Turin here) but extremely pretty. Again, a decant may be your best bet here.
– I had an interesting episode with Jasmin Noir (Bulgari) while in line at a Detroit airport Starbucks: a guy behind me kept sniffing loudly and muttering, then finally plucked up courage to ask what perfume I had on bcs he *had* to get it for his girlfriend. I told him some discount sites but he couldn’t wait and left his place in line to run off to buy it in Duty Free (which is where I’d squirted it on the back of my neck). Powerfully erotic stuff! But YMMV…
– A bit left-field, considering your other loves, and not sure where this came from but I’m sticking it in bcs it wouldn’t let me go (!): Jessica McClintock actually is a very pretty white floral – but I think plain ‘pretty’ isn’t your objective here~
– Satellite Padparadscha came to mind bcs of your love for Bois des Iles.
– Mona di Orio Carnation is a skank-ish skin scent with similar vibe (again, on my skin – YMMV) to Nu / Putain / LL Rose)
– Caron’s Tabac Blond might suit you rather well, and Narcisse Noir – preferably vintage extraits; but the budget might not allow for more than a decant.
– Strange Invisible Perfumes Epic Gardenia might wow you. It’s huge and indolic (on me).
– Finally (I think~) the older version of Vivienne Westwood’s Boudoir might suit you for its skanky-femme vibe.
I’d love to know your feedback when you’ve tried people’s suggestions!