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Laura Mercier Ambre Passion Velvet & Ambre Passion Elixir ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 20 September 2010 115 Comments

Laura Mercier Ambre Passion Velvet & Ambre Passion Elixir

Amber fragrances can pose a conundrum. On one hand, amber is warm, easy, and seductive — a crowd pleaser. When it's cold out, a spritz of an amber-based perfume or burning an amber-scented candle are almost as good as pulling up a thickly knit blanket. When I wear amber, I get compliments. Everyone should have an amber in his fragrance collection.

On the other hand, amber is sweet and can cloy, making for suffocating, cilia-searing juice. After a few hours of wearing some ambers I feel like I'm clamped in a trap in a cheap candle shop and the ventilation has shut down. I have to gnaw off my arm to escape. Plus, amber can be boring. (Vanilla fragrances can have these same advantages and drawbacks.)

In my opinion, with Ambre Passion Velvet Eau de Parfum (shown above right) and Ambre Passion Elixir (shown above left), Laura Mercier does a great job highlighting the best parts of an amber-based perfume while minimizing potential shortcomings. Ambre Passion, a hard-to-find Mercier fragrance from 2005, inspired the new Velvet and Elixir versions (notes include geranium, saffron, apricot, rose, jasmine, patchouli, amber, cedarwood, and musk.)

Ambre Passion Velvet smells of sweet amber, sure, but right away an infusion of almost skin-like saffron cuts the syrup. The fragrance's florals only register as maybe 10 percent of what I smell, but it's enough rose to freshen the amber and enough jasmine to make it diffusive and lighter than many caramel-like amber fragrances. Ambre Passion Velvet is only faintly spicy and smoky, and those aspects of the fragrance come out after it's been on skin for a few hours. As the scent ages, the saffron fades, and its ambery sweetness turns vanillic.

Ambre Passion Velvet has stealth sillage, and just when I think it's disappeared, someone arm's length away will tell me how good I smell. It lasts about five hours on me and comes in a bottle with a satisfyingly heavy lid and an atomizer that makes an especially fine mist.

Ambre Passion Elixir is a more concentrated version of Ambre Passion Velvet. The Elixir has the same dreamy saffron as the Velvet, but I smell more apricot and patchouli. The Elixir also lasts a few hours longer than the Velvet. While the Velvet melds into a seamless blend, the Elixir seems to stay more distinct. I can smell its components more clearly.

The biggest disadvantage to the Elixir is that it's a topaz-colored oil. If you don't let the Elixir dry before you get dressed, you'll be washing a golden blot out of the cuff of your silk blouse (listen to the voice of experience, my friends.) Between the Elixir and the Velvet, I'd probably choose the Velvet because I like spraying fragrances, it doesn't stain like the Elixir, the Velvet isn't significantly different smelling than the Elixir, five hours wear is plenty for me, and it costs $50 less.

Laura Mercier Ambre Passion Velvet Eau de Parfum comes in a 50 ml spray bottle and costs $75. The Ambre Passion Elixir comes in a 15 ml splash bottle for $125. For information on where to buy them, see Laura Mercier under Perfume Houses.

Possibly of interest

Eris Parfums Mxxx. ~ fragrance review
Shalini Amorem Rose & Aftelier Antique Ambergris ~ fragrance review
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir ~ fragrance review

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: amber, laura mercier

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115 Comments

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  1. Alyssa says:
    20 September 2010 at 12:58 pm

    Sounds great — Laura Mercier really does some nice things, doesn’t she? And I love all the little details that make the difference for you here, Angela–a satisfyingly heavy lid, and especially fine spray–the sort of thing only the real, um, collectors appreciate… ;-)

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 2:05 pm

      Those details make such a difference! It’s so nice to have an atomizer that sprays well–cleanly and with a fine mist.

      I have to admit I’ve only tried Minuit Enchantee and now these ambers, but so far I’m really impressed by Laura Mercier’s quality for such a low price.

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    • Ari says:
      20 September 2010 at 3:21 pm

      Yes, I think she’s really good for gourmands. I’m still kicking myself for not buying her violet scent a few years back.

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      • Angela says:
        20 September 2010 at 3:41 pm

        That would have been an interesting one to try!

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  2. HemlockSillage says:
    20 September 2010 at 1:09 pm

    Both sound lovely. Thanks for the review! I love the way you delineate the subtle differences. . .

    Question for the more chemically intelligent: which has a longer shelf life? A perfume in alcohol base or in oil base? (Assuming both are kept in cool, dark, ideal conditions, of course) Is there an advantage in longetivity for the oils?

    My gut says the -OH group on the alcohol would tend to oxidize the perfume oil/essences, but then some base oils could turn and go rancid! My small chemistry knowledge is a dangerous thing. Anyone else out there know the answer? You guys are so knowledgeable. . .I’m sure someone will :D

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 2:05 pm

      I hope someone with better knowledge than I have will be able to answer this–it’s a good question.

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    • Rappleyea says:
      20 September 2010 at 2:17 pm

      I don’t know the chemistry of it, but I can say from my own experience that the alcohol based scents lasted much longer than oil based ones!

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      • Bee says:
        21 September 2010 at 10:02 am

        I would also tip on oils oxidising first. To be an oil they would have to contain unsaturated fatty acids, these tend to oxidise with time, even at optimal storage conditions. This can be delayed by adding antioxidants (so, check the label), and many plant extracts have an antioxidant effect, so this could prevent rancidity of the oil base. Alcohols (with -OH-groups) are not oxidants generally, and alkohol does tend to have a preserving action, so I would rather claim that alcohol-based scents have a longer shelf-life than oil-based scents.

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    • Outlandish says:
      20 September 2010 at 2:28 pm

      Oil shelf life depends on a lot of the same factors as perfume – temp, exposure to light, etc. Also if antioxidants are added, it can extend shelf life. Here is a list of common oils used in sopamaking, some of which are also used in making perfume oils, with their basic shelf life shown: http://www.soapandmore.com/cart/pages.php?pageid=27
      Best advice is to make sure you put the lid back on tight tight tight!

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      • Outlandish says:
        20 September 2010 at 2:29 pm

        Eek – *soapmaking!

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      • Angela says:
        20 September 2010 at 2:34 pm

        Thanks for the insight!

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      • HemlockSillage says:
        20 September 2010 at 3:56 pm

        Thanks for the link! I love learning about things, and in my zanier moments think to try things like making soap from raw components. Probably fit only for laundry. I had no idea there were so many oils for a base. Now I have to study the antioxidants. Thanks.

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  3. Joe says:
    20 September 2010 at 1:44 pm

    Thanks for reviewing this so quickly, Angela. Nice review… except now I’m biting my nails again. I need to go retest the EDP and I may very well pull the trigger on buying if I walk into Nordstrom. It would be a great fall scent — not that I need another one. I enjoy the EL Amber Ylang Ylang, but I realized recently it has an odd “Play-Doh” type note in it to my nose.

    When I tested the Elixir, I put some on skin and also on a test strip — the paper strip retained a beautiful, seductive sweetness for days and days.

    I think this and Minuit Enchanté are both really well done fragrances. LM does a good job. (Also, re: buying information, I think this one is exclusive to Nordstrom at the moment.)

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 2:07 pm

      I’m very seriously considering buying this one, too, Joe, even though my battered pickup truck is screaming for new tires and I really should be saving up for that. Safety first and all that. But then again, wouldn’t it be nice to show up at the emergency room smelling really nice?

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      • Rappleyea says:
        20 September 2010 at 2:18 pm

        Oh, Angela! Don’t even think that!!

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        • Angela says:
          20 September 2010 at 2:21 pm

          O.K., I’ll change that image: I’m showing up at the emergency room, sure, but it’s to meet up with one of the several handsome doctors there that are begging me to go to dinner with them. And I smell of Ambre Passion. How’s that?

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          • Parfumesse says:
            20 September 2010 at 2:49 pm

            *LOL* that’s cute Angela

          • Rappleyea says:
            20 September 2010 at 3:04 pm

            Much better!

      • miss kitty v. says:
        20 September 2010 at 4:34 pm

        Yeah, and you can always call me and I’ll come get ya. :) Of course, I’ve bought decants instead of changing the oil in my car, so we’ll see if your tires or my engine go out first. (Oh, and not that I want you in the hospital, but I can direct you to some of our city’s finer, I mean finest doctors…)

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        • Angela says:
          20 September 2010 at 5:32 pm

          Well! Nice of you to offer to come and get me when you’re car might break down on the way! Then again, our fragrances will keep our focus keen, and we won’t get into any accidents.

          And I didn’t mention the muffler and shocks I need, too.

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          • miss kitty v. says:
            20 September 2010 at 6:21 pm

            Between the two of us we might have the parts for one functional vehicle!

      • FOandW_oh_my says:
        21 September 2010 at 6:44 am

        Angela, I don’t mean to come off dictatorial but, BUY THOSE TIRES. Besides, we need you, not to mention, your family needs you….The muffler can wait as it is simply an annoyance fixer, not a life threatener!

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        • Angela says:
          21 September 2010 at 10:27 am

          Oh, I’ll get tires all right–thanks for the encouragement!

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          • FOandW_oh_my says:
            22 September 2010 at 12:15 pm

            II’m sorry if my comment was too serious for the lighthearted chatter. In my defense, it was early, no coffee (yet) and I think proper perspective had yet to descend. I reread it later and though “what? seriously? they were JOKING!)”. My bad, I meant only the best.

          • Angela says:
            22 September 2010 at 10:14 pm

            I was definitely joking–although I feel the temptation to put perfume before tires!–but it’s always nice to have someone remind me to be sensible. It makes me feel loved, so thank you!

  4. Jonette says:
    20 September 2010 at 1:45 pm

    Well, I certainly have to hunt this down and try it out. Angela, you really sold me on this — hope I love it as much as you made me believe I would. I just can’t get this image out of my mind of a woman with a gnawed-off arm exiting a candle shop! :-D

    Hemlocksillage — love your screen name!

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 2:07 pm

      It’s definitely worth a try if you like amber at all!

      Sorry for the gruesome image. It *is* nasty if you get a visual at all.

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    • HemlockSillage says:
      20 September 2010 at 4:09 pm

      Thanks. You made my day. It will be even better if I can swing by and try LM’s Ambre Passion on the way home.

      Angela’s writing is dangerous to my pocketbook. I think when I started here at NST years ago, she was my unknowing enabler for several FB unsniffed purchases. I love her spot on word paintings of fragrance. Will be curious to see where this fits on my amber pantheon. OJ’s Tolu is my reigning favorite. . .

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      • Angela says:
        20 September 2010 at 4:23 pm

        I’ve had plenty of enablers of my own! I’m getting better about not buying unsniffed, but it’s taken years.

        Do let me know what you think of Ambre Passion if you get the chance to smell it. Tolu is a hard one to beat.

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        • HemlockSillage says:
          20 September 2010 at 11:27 pm

          I tried it tonight! On paper, it scared me, the patchouli was very prominent, but it died down quickly and I was willing to give it a chance on skin.

          The comments on well made atomizers in LM were true. It was a very fine mist, and the bottle and cap have a nice heft. The scent was loud for only about 10 to 15 minutes. The apricot/peach notes up top were lovely against the spices, amber and patchouli. I put the parfum on one wrist, and oil on the other. At first I could tell little difference. Both settled quickly, and seem moderate in sillage. Ambers are often very loud to me, and this was soft for this genre.

          Still opulent, oriental and rich, but with a lighter weight than I expected. Perhaps it is the florals, but I don’t interpret much jasmine or rose. The patchouli nearly disappears, and vanilla, amber and musk linger. The oil/elixir seems sweeter and more vanillic four hours into the wearing. The perfume still has a bit more wood/ spice bite. At $75, the perfume may have to join my collection. Thanks Angela for your review, and inspiring me to go try it. Be well.

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          • Angela says:
            21 September 2010 at 1:57 am

            Thanks for the on the spot review! I really appreciate that you checked back in to let you know how they wore on you. I’m still seriously toying with buying a bottle of the Velvet, too.

  5. miss kitty v. says:
    20 September 2010 at 1:52 pm

    I can’t do ambers– I feel like I’m on fire when I wear them, and my face starts to blaze red. But I will admit that I want to try these, only because the names “Passion Velvet” and “Passion Elixir” sound so enticing. Of course, your review also did nothing to deter my interest. Dreamy saffron? Sign me up.

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 2:08 pm

      The saffron made all the difference to me. Really, I think it’s what sets these ambers apart from the crowd. Still, if amber doesn’t work for you, lord knows there are plenty more perfumes out there…

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    • pyramus says:
      20 September 2010 at 5:29 pm

      If you love saffron, I suppose you already own L’Artisan Safran Troublant? It gets around the amber problem by using vanilla instead, and it’s a stunner–and amazingly long-lasting: I wore it this morning, and I can still smell it clearly over ten hours later, saffron and all.

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      • Angela says:
        20 September 2010 at 5:33 pm

        I do! In fact, right after the first time I tested Ambre Passion, I dug out my Safran Troublant and fell in love with it in a new way. It used to smell a little too “paella” for me with its saffron, but this time around I adored it.

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      • mals86 says:
        21 September 2010 at 8:52 am

        Wish *I* got 10 hours out of ST – it’s a shy little rose thing on me.

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        • pyramus says:
          21 September 2010 at 9:23 am

          Weird, isn’t it? On me the rose shows up early, hangs around long enough for a cup of coffee, and then goes away to leave the saffron and vanilla to hash it out.

          The other two Epices scents (I had the coffret) didn’t work on me AT ALL. I went through phases of liking them but then I realized I was deluding myself so I gave them away. And then I bought a full bottle of Safran Troublant.

          I really do need to try the Mercier Ambre. Maybe I’ll get to try it in London next month.

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          • Angela says:
            21 September 2010 at 10:29 am

            I have the coffret, too, and I have to admit I’ve largely ignored it for the past two years. Now I’ll definitely spend more time with Safran Troublant.

          • boojum says:
            21 September 2010 at 1:35 pm

            Could be worse…for me, the rose waves as she jogs on past the window.

  6. Jill says:
    20 September 2010 at 1:55 pm

    This is a must-try for me (I think I’ll go for the Ambre Passion Velvet — I love that you describe it as having “stealth sillage”)! I am an amber fan, but I totally agree with you on the pros and cons of it. I had been so excited about trying Minuit Enchante, but somehow never got around to it! Still want to. Thanks for the review!

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 2:09 pm

      If you try it, be sure and let me know what you think!

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  7. Jared says:
    20 September 2010 at 2:04 pm

    Reading this, Angela, I’m reminded that the amber section of my fragrance collection is a gaping hole. I don’t think I have any! I really don’t know why this is, except that possible I just haven’t worked up to that family of fragrance yet. Incense and woods has far and away taken the lead, as have the chypres, vetivers, leathers, and the hunt for my favorite patchouli. I doubt I could even tell you what exactly amber smells like. But I’m thinking that the Donna Karan Gold I have contains an amber note? Does Coromandel? I know patchouli isn’t the only thing in there, and I’m guessing Coromandel’s crowd-pleasing status, even among patchouli haters, is due to some amber….

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 2:11 pm

      Amber is a big player in practically every oriental fragrance, and once you’ve identified the note you’ll smell it right away. I’m sure it’s in Coromandel, and you can pick it up in a flash in Shalimar and Tauer’s L’air.

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      • Jared says:
        20 September 2010 at 5:30 pm

        Oh true…there are probably a bunch I own and I don’t realize what I’m smelling. I just need some training. I’ll drift to my orientals and do comparisons. Thanks!

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        • Angela says:
          20 September 2010 at 5:35 pm

          Ambre Sultan, Ambre Russe, and Ambre Fetiche are some heavily amber fragrances if you want a comparison and have a sample of any of those handy.

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  8. lovethescents says:
    20 September 2010 at 2:17 pm

    Ooooh, the Velvet sounds lovely. Unfortunately, even though there is a Laura Mercier distributor in my city, they don’t carry any of her fragrances. As a result, I’ve tested only Minuit Enchantee, a purchased sample from Posh Peasant. It wasn’t quite my thing, though as I found it too sweet on my skin. I’ll have to seek out a sample of this now….:-)

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 2:23 pm

      Ambre Passion Velvet is definitely sweet, being an amber and all, but it’s not as spicy-sweet as the Minuit Enchantee. Too bad the Laura Mercier counter doesn’t have the perfumes, though!

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  9. Rappleyea says:
    20 September 2010 at 2:21 pm

    These both sound delicious, Angela! I haven’t tested too many ambers as I was traumatized by AG’s Ambre Fetiche. I almost resorted to a chain saw!! The patch heavier Elixir sounds more enticing to me personally.

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 2:24 pm

      The patch is subtle, but it’s there. I know what you mean about those ambers, though. They should be outlawed when the temperature goes above 60 degrees.

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  10. Parfumesse says:
    20 September 2010 at 2:53 pm

    Sounds so yummy! been wanting to try her frags for so long now! I’ll be going to the Mall of America next month…hopefully I can sample it there.

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 3:42 pm

      It seems like if they were anywhere, they’d be somewhere at the Mall of America!

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      • boojum says:
        20 September 2010 at 5:05 pm

        You’d be surprised how little the MOA has to offer, perfume-wise. Nothing exotic, anyway… just your standard department stores, Sephora, l’Occitane, and a couple of Perfumanias. Nordie’s will likely have it, though.

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        • boojum says:
          20 September 2010 at 5:07 pm

          (Oh, and it’s a sad little Sephora that has really scaled back its fragrance selection since the recession began.)

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        • Angela says:
          20 September 2010 at 5:35 pm

          I love how NST readers are everywhere and have the scoop on just about anything!

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    • cate says:
      21 September 2010 at 1:32 am

      Bloomingdale’s at the MOA has a big counter of Laura Mercier off by itself a bit outside the regular fragrance /cosmetic area. Nordstrom has a “fragrance festival” at the MOA Oct 2 and 2 with some special things brought in for the event, I was told by one of the SA’s last month. This is my first time posting, I have learned so much from this blog and so wanted to chime in!

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      • Angela says:
        21 September 2010 at 10:30 am

        Welcome! I hope you’re inspired to post often. And thanks for the insider’s info on perfume happenings at the MOA!

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      • boojum says:
        21 September 2010 at 10:33 am

        Oh, thanks for posting! I drive past the silly thing every day, but rarely have time to actually stop in. I didn’t know about the Nordstrom event, but will try to check it out.

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        • Rappleyea says:
          21 September 2010 at 11:10 am

          Let me know if you find anything that you hate. Heeheheheheee…

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      • Parfumesse says:
        21 September 2010 at 8:00 pm

        Thanks so much for the info! wont be there on the 2nd unfortunately but will drop into blommingdales for sure now. :)

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  11. norjunma1 says:
    20 September 2010 at 2:58 pm

    I was just rhapsodizing to the nice SA at Saks about my deep and abiding love for Hermes Ambre Narguile. But I need something that’s a little more, err…financially accessible to fit my amber needs. I really like Minuit Enchantee so I’m hoping Passion Velvet fits the bill. Angela, thanks for your take on these!

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 3:43 pm

      I think these are amazingly well priced, considering the quality. Ambre Passion Velvet is less gourmand and a little more sheer than Ambre Narguile, but you might like it.

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      • norjunma1 says:
        23 September 2010 at 10:01 am

        Angela, not sure if you’ll read this now that this post is pretty much done, but thanks again for calling this perfume out. I wen to check it out yesterday at Nordstorm, where I found it was completely sold out. The SA, who wears it herself, had a bottle squirreled away and gave me a spritz. When she saw how I was practically moaning over my arm she kindly gave me a vial, which I have been clutching greedily to my chest ever since. What can I say, I’m hooked. I might even like it more than Hermes AN, which, as you said, is a bit more gourmand and can make me feel swamped with scent sometimes. This might be my HG amber (only time will tell), so thank you, thank you!

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        • Angela says:
          23 September 2010 at 10:25 am

          I’m glad you like it! It’s definitely more affordable than the Hermes, although it’s a really different scent, too. Enjoy that vial!

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  12. Tiara says:
    20 September 2010 at 3:30 pm

    Both sound delightful, but I’ll listen to your advice on avoiding stains-yuk. Hope my local Nordstrom’s is going to carry these. Their perfume area is sort of a Nordstrom’s-lite. According to one of the SAs, people here (SW Ohio) just aren’t that into perfume so they don’t carry a whole lot like they do in bigger cities.

    I was in Nordie’s but for a few minutes the other night just to pick up perfume for my niece’s birthday and I didn’t linger. Now I have a good excuse to stop in again-thanks!

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 3:44 pm

      I hope they have it so you can at least try. It’s so frustrating to read about something and be intrigued, but not have the chance to try for yourself.

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  13. alotofscents says:
    20 September 2010 at 4:21 pm

    I know that Von Mar carries them here in Wichita, Ks. If that helps, definitely a must-try. I love Amber. I’m not much for Patch. or cedar. I think it’s sort of like some musks-it’s sweet. I don’t care for heavy vanilla, but amber is something soothing and rich to me, it never goes sharp. I understand the blanket analogy.
    Angela, what do you think of Profumum’s Amber Aurea? I use it to mix with other lighter florals to give them more depth. How does this compare?

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 4:25 pm

      I haven’t tried that amber, unfortunately. In fact, I haven’t tried many Profunums at all. I’m going to my sample box now to see if I have any samples…

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  14. elise says:
    20 September 2010 at 4:33 pm

    ack! more ambers to try! TY!
    Heading out soon and may stop to sniff if I can find them…

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 5:36 pm

      Let me know what you think!

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  15. March says:
    20 September 2010 at 4:58 pm

    You’re responsible for the fact that I own the other two of these (Minuit and Nuits?) and now I have to go try this one! The bottles are really nice as well.

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 5:37 pm

      I only review the Minuit Enchantees, so you’ll have to blame the other on someone else! It’s about time for me to pull Minuit into rotation again. The wool skirts and boots are back in the closet, and the spicy perfumes need to move to the front of the shelf.

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      • March says:
        20 September 2010 at 8:50 pm

        No, no … I distinctly remember I had a very good reason for blaming you for Nuits even though you didn’t review it! ;-P Did you reference it? Maybe I ran across it googling on NST.

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        • Angela says:
          21 September 2010 at 1:59 am

          I’m wiling to accept the blame, only because you’re at fault for making me try (and so often buy) so many fragrances!

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  16. Tamara says:
    20 September 2010 at 6:24 pm

    I only have one amber love affair and her name is Alahine but you have peaked my curiosity nonetheless. But God in merciful heaven was Minuit Enchante’ a gone wrong mish- mash of spices that screeched my nose hairs off! I was so sad about it.
    Maybe this line is not for me?
    For my cold windy SOTD here I wore Ormonde Woman and felt very fetching indeed. I need a FB of THAT one. :P

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 7:06 pm

      If you have and love Alahine, who needs another amber fragrance? You can put that money toward a bottle of Ormonde Woman, instead. I love that fragrance!

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      • Tamara says:
        20 September 2010 at 7:12 pm

        Angela I don’t need another amber as Alahine trumps all but I forgot I do love at least two more-Les Parfum De Rosine Rose d’ Homme is powdery amber galore on me and how in the hell could I forget URC, with it’s delicious amber patch’ oakmoss drydown that lasts for days???

        I’m losing’ it.
        Great review though!

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        • Angela says:
          20 September 2010 at 7:25 pm

          You’re right. Settling for just one amber-starring fragrance could mean cutting out so many delicious others.

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    • mals86 says:
      21 September 2010 at 8:56 am

      Oh, exactly my thoughts on Alahine and ambers – I’ve got My Amber, and if something stunningly ambery shows up now, it’s going to either slap Alahine down (not happenin’) or be startling and very different. Which is possible, I suppose. I do really love the amber bits of 31 RC and Attrape-Coeur and URC.

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      • Tamara says:
        21 September 2010 at 10:06 am

        Mals YES, startling and very different is what I want too most of the time, give me movaaahs and shakaaahs ladies! :)

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  17. AnnS says:
    20 September 2010 at 6:37 pm

    Angela – your effective and lovely review was the amber scented gentle breeze that knocked me off the fence. I have a sample of her Ambre Passion and I really liked it, but always decided I didn’t need it. Well, today I’ve decided that I do need the velvet version! Thanks so much!!!

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 7:07 pm

      I’d love to know how the two Ambres compare–the original and the Velvet, that is. If you do try the Velvet, please let me know how it compares.

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      • AnnS says:
        20 September 2010 at 7:17 pm

        Oh, I will! But I can say now that the original one is nice, even handed, linear, with a little rough about the edges – some resinous nearly smokey accords. Definitely unisex. Definitely not as sweet as her fragrances normally are. It’s warm and glow-y. Almost there, but it couldn’t compete with my other fav ambers.

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        • Angela says:
          20 September 2010 at 7:26 pm

          It sounds like the Velvet is definitely different, then. Just thinking of the saffron alone. Thanks for the mini review!

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  18. cazaubon says:
    20 September 2010 at 6:42 pm

    I tested both of these a month or so back and was underwhelmed. The first few minutes were nice, but then they sort of fell apart into an undefined sweet smell that faded very quickly. I’ll stick with Ambre Russe myself.

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 7:08 pm

      Ambre Russe is a good one!

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  19. damselfly says:
    20 September 2010 at 7:16 pm

    Haven’t tested any Mercier perfumes for some time – I had pretty much written them off after trying several and disliking them. But these sound like they’re worth a try. Thanks for reviewing them.

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 7:27 pm

      Other than these, the only other one I’ve spent any time with is Minuit Enchantee, so I can’t really speak for them. But I’d love to know what you think.

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  20. Thanna says:
    20 September 2010 at 7:34 pm

    Oh I so love the smell of these but the lasting power is terrible on my skin. I sprayed myself wet and an hour later neither I nor my scent testing buddy could smell it at all. It does better for me sprayed on fabric.

    The Elixir lasted much longer for me but, at that price point, I’m firmly in the Ambre Russe camp too.

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    • Angela says:
      20 September 2010 at 8:11 pm

      I guess I’ve been lucky in that it lasts so long on me!

      I also like Ambre Russe, but its booziness can sit heavily on me, so I have to apply it sparingly. But come to think of it, maybe that’s why the new Ambre Passions work so well on me, though–they’re lighter.

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      • boojum says:
        21 September 2010 at 10:37 am

        You just swayed me to try these. I love Ambre Russe (wore it yesterday, in fact), but was finding it a little heavy. The day started out cool, misty and raining, but warmed up considerably later on, at which point I started really wishing I hadn’t worn it. It’s hard to find perfumes that straddle those changeable-weather days well.

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        • Angela says:
          21 September 2010 at 11:28 am

          I agree–these “now cold, now warm” days are hard to plan for, perfume-wise. I like Duel a lot when the weather is like this.

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          • boojum says:
            21 September 2010 at 1:08 pm

            I pulled out Mauboussin today instead, which was fortunate; by the time I got 2 miles up the road, the clouds started breaking up and it’s now a sunny fall day.

          • Angela says:
            22 September 2010 at 10:16 pm

            Nice choice!

  21. whitecrane says:
    20 September 2010 at 9:18 pm

    Ewwww. Well, at first… then… I had to rush down to Nordie’s after the intriguing review. I tried both the Velvet and the Elexir. I immediately loved the scent of apricot that appeared after a few minutes from the Velvet. On me, the Elixir was very subtle and has very little sillage compared to the Velvet.

    That said, the Velvet then was very cloying to me. That’s where the “ewwww” came in. I seem to constantly smell the cloying part and think I don’t like it. But when I’m not paying attention to it and move my arm, I suddenly smell a very beautiful perfume!

    I can’t say whether I like it enough to buy it, but I did manage to get a sample, so after different tries, perhaps I’ll decide it’s for me and why I like it, at which time perhaps someone would be interested in actually hearing my opinion.

    Many thanks for a wonderful and intriguing review that made me leave my home to try something new!

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    • Angela says:
      21 September 2010 at 2:01 am

      Ambers are so difficult that way! The bottomline is that an amber is often cloying and sweet. But sometimes, subtley, it’s really nice. Thank you so much for reporting on how it worked on you!

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  22. Carlos BFL 319 says:
    20 September 2010 at 11:03 pm

    Thanks for the review Angela. I love Amber, and these sound right up my alley. Will def give these a sniff. :)

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    • Angela says:
      21 September 2010 at 2:01 am

      I’d love to know what you think!

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  23. NinaraPoll says:
    21 September 2010 at 12:21 am

    Angela, you have made me determined to somehow obtain samples of these. Which given the scary experience I had with amber last week (blend of Perfumer’s Workshop Tea Rose + Auric Blends Sandalwood roll-on + Auric Blends Amber roll-on = slightly skunky, extremely sweet rose with MONSTER sillage that was still very noticible a day later, after two showers), is quite a feat. My hopefully-soon-to-be-emplyed self secretly thanks you. :)

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    • Angela says:
      21 September 2010 at 2:02 am

      Whatever the mysterious job you reference, if you want it I hope you get it very soon! Ambers are so tricky, really. I hope this one (or another one you find) works for you.

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  24. Valkyrie says:
    21 September 2010 at 2:18 am

    I would like a really smoky/ spicy/ different amber. When it ever gets Fall in my part of the woods I want to try Profumum Fiore d’Ambra and Neil Morris’s Burnt Amber. Has anyone tried these. Any other recs for less cuddly ambers?

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    • pyramus says:
      21 September 2010 at 9:27 am

      Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan has a certain controlled viciousness to it. It’s not all sweetness and light. You should maybe get a sample of that. For the longest time I was completely addicted to MPG Ambre Precieux, but now I find it a little too sweet and yummy; the Lutens is more to my taste.

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    • elise says:
      21 September 2010 at 9:42 am

      I have a sample of burnt amber…more burnt than amber,I’d say and quite strong (are all his scents this powerful?)…but I DO pull it out if I have an outdoor evening event to attend…it IS very unique, but the ‘burnt’ part is strong….

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    • Angela says:
      21 September 2010 at 10:32 am

      I haven’t tried either of those, unfortunately. Have you tried OJ Tolu? It’s a little more herbal than some ambers.

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    • Rappleyea says:
      21 September 2010 at 11:18 am

      Give Sonoma Scent Studio’s Amber Noir a try. Most ambers are waaayy too sweet for me, and this one wasn’t. It was very interesting.

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  25. ceelouise says:
    21 September 2010 at 7:47 am

    There are just too many perfumes and perfume lines. I have to eliminate somewhere. The Mercier I tried once was too gourmand, even for me. And I’m not a fan of amber. The amber in Tocade makes it almost unwearable for me. (But, I am excited about trying my sample of Ambre Narguile as soon as the weather gets really cold. And, I’m loving Knize Ten today, even though the sun came out after a foggy morning, and I think there’s some amber in it. So I guess I’m inconsistent.) Thanks for this review!

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    • pyramus says:
      21 September 2010 at 9:25 am

      Oh, Ambre Narguile!

      It’s not really an amber scent, though, not really, because in my experience all the Hermessences are pretty lightweight, and amber would just drag it down. On me, it’s more of a blond-tobacco thing, with surprisingly good lasting power, but still very much an Ellena transparent composition.

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      • ceelouise says:
        22 September 2010 at 4:29 am

        Oh good, looking forward to trying it. Such nice samples from Hermes. Good SA’s there, too, both at the store in Boston and here in Hamburg.

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    • Angela says:
      21 September 2010 at 10:34 am

      I know what you mean about being overwhelmed by the number of perfume lines!

      Knize Ten is wonderful. I do love a good leather fragrance.

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      • ceelouise says:
        22 September 2010 at 4:31 am

        Yes, but as it turned out, after a cloudy morning that looked like another chilly day in northern Germany, it was a beautiful summer-like day. I wished I had put on my sunny-fall weather Missoni instead. But KT – any good leather – is great for chilly days.

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        • Angela says:
          22 September 2010 at 10:17 pm

          Good point. I think of cool weather when I think of leather, too–except maybe Bandit.

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  26. mals86 says:
    21 September 2010 at 8:59 am

    Another lovely review, A. I don’t know why I’m not moved to sample either one of these, except as I mentioned above in a reply to Tamara, I love my Alahine and I guess I feel covered in the amber area.

    Really liked Minuit Enchante – those spices were wonderful. I still might see if I can hunt down a decant; I know I wouldn’t use a whole bottle over my lifetime!

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    • Angela says:
      21 September 2010 at 10:35 am

      It sounds like you’re completely covered in the amber category!

      Minuit Enchantee is pretty powerful. I have a bottle, but really I only needed 10 ml.

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  27. mitsouko says:
    21 September 2010 at 11:14 am

    This sounds wonderful – I must go try ! The Elixir sounds very appealing -even if it is an oil.

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    • Angela says:
      21 September 2010 at 11:29 am

      There is something satisfying about dabbing a little oil here and there! Just make sure to let it dry before you get dressed….

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  28. brazile says:
    16 October 2010 at 12:23 pm

    Wonderful article as ever – and I do love a perfume oil! An unrelated question: how do I write to you with an extensive question about rose perfumes, Angela? I tried angela@nstperfumes.com but am not sure whether my hazarded guess was any good…

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