Jason is looking for a new fragrance. It should be long lasting, mysterious, and change throughout the day. He's willing to consider vintage and/or discontinued fragrances. Here is what we know about Jason:
He's in his late 20s, lives in London, and works in an office job in the theater.
He says he is subtle, focused but very playful and sensual.
Jason likes...
The Serge Lutens line for its clarity and mystery. He owns Fille en Aiguilles and is thinking of buying Chene. Muscs Koublai Khan is "very nice".
The Amouage Attars are great, especially Afrah, but he is apparently anosmic to something in Amouage Gold. He also likes Amouage Lyric.
Guerlain Mitsouko for its peach/green top and cinnamon dry down, but he finds Shalimar dull.
Chanel Coromandel for its mystery and playfulness, Chanel Pour Monsieur for its complexity.
Hermès Bel Ami for its weirdness.
The Micallef men's range for its class.
Christian Dior Eau Noire for its sugary woodyness.
Penhaligon's Endymion for its coffee.
Yves Saint Laurent Paris for its artistic qualities — he finds the "synthetic composition attractive" although he doesn't think it smells like rose.
Jason doesn't like...
Bvlgari Black, although he appreciates its conceptual qualities.
Christian Dior Eau Sauvage, because it is a little too sweet and preppy — he wishes it were sharper.
Christian Dior Fahrenheit is nice (he likes the spice notes) but a little flat.
He hates Guerlain Jicky, and to some extent Caron Yatagan.
What say you?
Note: top image is Letterbox [cropped] by Roby Ferrari at flickr; some rights reserved.
The first thing that came to mind when reading the words “change throughout the day” was Etro Shaal Nur. I find that it starts off quite dry with vetiver and incense but but gets sweeter, spicier, almost oriental in the drydown. Definitely not a linear scent.
Thanks Abyss,
I tried some of Etro but not Shaal Nur. I read alot about and was interested in Messe de Minuit because of its gothicness. Whilst its beautiful and dark, I also find it too pretty and girlish in a way to wear it. I look forward to exploring Shaal and the line in much more detail. When starting to explore fragrance, I was also worried that EDT or cologne strength lines did not last as long or were less complex on the skin.
Much appreciated,
J
If you are interested in gothic, jason, have you tried CdG Avignon? It is cold, gothic, and not a bit girlish.
Hello MJR,
Thanks so much for your reccomendation. I LOVE Comme des Garcons Luxe Patchouli. If only it had more development! I’ve tried the Insence range and look to explore it further, I tried the Japanese sounding one and Zagorsk which didnt have much effect one me but look forward to Avignon.
Many Thanks,
J
I’d recommend:
– Ormonde Man – for its notes of juniper berry, cardomom,hemlock, sandalwood, vetiver, oudh and musk. Wonderful.
– Le Labo’s Rose 31 – Sexy, a little ‘dirty’ and certainly a fragrance that evolves. read the nst review here: https://nstperfume.com/2006/04/01/le-labo-rose-31-fragrance-review/
I second Ormonde Man!
I third OM, second LR31, I was thinking about Noir épice too (F. Malle)
What they said. Jason should trek over to Ormonde Jayne and pick up a couple of samples.
Yep, and make sure to try Ormonde Woman as well! Would be great on a man I think.
I am terrified for asking for samples, they always say no, and deny all knowledge of having samples. Is this because I am a man??!
I was also going to say FM Noir Epices. I think it’s the sexiest thing ever, so just a warning that you may be followed by hordes of admirers when you wear it.
Hello Miss Kitty,
I like Frederic Malle very much, there is this richness and clarity like in Serge Lutens perfumes which is very attractive. I tried Muscs Ravageur which reminded me too much of Muscs Kubali khan, but will re-explore Noir Epices, again, scary perfume reps at Liberty.
J
Hello Sayitisntso,
Thanks for your reccomendation. I was in Harrods just before the sales and I came across their counter. The sales assistants were a little off putting and their pushy qualities made it difficult appreciate the fragrance. My nose was also a little blunted before trying the fragrance. I tried Zizan and Tolu on my wrists but I couldent smell anything at the time. However I will try them in more depth.
Regarding Le Labo, patcholi was a little linear and I couldent smell labdanum, however I look forward to Rose. The two rose fragrances I really like are Lyric Amouage and Dark Rose by Czech and Speake but the latter I guess because of its stifled victorianness.
Many Thanks,
J
Skip the Harrod’s counter and go directly to the OJ boutique! The reps there have been trained to help you find the basic notes you’re after before spraying the perfumes. Very knowledgeable and relaxing…(I hear).
i love talking to knowledgable reps such as at the Roja Dove perfume room, however I feel very guilty as I cant buy full bottles at full retail price. Are there any good sales reps you’ve come across ; )
I second Le Labo Rose 31.
Hey Jason –
Check out the Histoire de Parfums line of fragrances…..especially 1740, 1804 and 1969. Another great line is Parfums de Nicolai – all of her fragrances are wonderful, classic and power houses of sillage.
Good Luck,
Marko
Hello Marko,
You are so right about Histoires des Parfums. I ordered a box set of their samples as one of my first perfume purchases. However Because there was only 1ml in each vial, I tried to conserve the fragrance too much and didnt put enough on. By doing so I didnt really appreciate the fragrances. It was only last week that I was in Selfridges where they have the full bottles that I was able to spray liberally. OMG, 1740 Marquis de Sade was a revelation, its the first fragrance I’ve smelt that I can honestly say I san smell the story, the history and its background through the perfume as opposed to the marketing release! Its so wonderful because its so romantic, dark, complex, unusual and beautiful. I look forward to trying the rest of the line, and wonder if I should try the rest of the Tuberose Trology and Moulin Rouge which I dont have access to currently.
Many Thanks,
J
Oh My! Jason’s taste (judging by his choices) appears to be the opposite of mine!
So instead of offering him the fragrances I most dislike (which should be the obvious choice)… I dare to suggest Antaeus by Chanel.
IMHO it is long lasting, mysterious, and changes throughout the day.
Go for the vintage formulation if you can find it!
Hello Dixie,
Thanks so much for this. Something I have no idea on is vintage or discontinued fragrances. Its so terrible reading so much about perfumes in history and having small budgets. I’ll try to ebay an old bottle or perfume court it. Fantastic,
Jason
Hello Kaos Geo,
Thanks so much for your reccomendation. I am really unfamiliar with high street/mid scale fragrances which was one reason I applied to this blog. I’ve tried the aftershave lotion of Egoiste Platinum which was dish washer like, I love Pour Monsieur but somehow wish the lemon could be mixed with something else, I cant wait to try anateus again.
Many Thanks,
J
Jason, it sounds like you’ve already tried so many wonderful things. I do have one suggestion: Take a look a the Neil Morris Fragrances website. Neil is a Boston-based perfumer whose creations are wide-ranging, complex, and beautiful. My very favorite, so far, is Hologram. Neil sells very generous samples, so if you are intrigued, you might consider trying some!
Hippie and Midnight Tryst are fantastic!
Midnight Tryst is lovely, and I keep going back to Rumi. There are definitely interesting scents to try in that line.
Hello Haunani,
I’ve thought alot about American niche perfumers, and have not even had the chance to try Andy Tauer, Neil Morris is someone I’ve never heard of so I’ll give his work a try. Gotham sounds particularly interesting as do your reccomendations and Neils sample packs for his main collection, yet should I stick to his Vault collection or try out his main line as well.
Many Thanks,
J
Speaking of American niche perfumers, try Dawn Spencer Hurwitz.
I’ve heard of Dawns work, but is there one you would reccomend in particular. Im sure shes done many fantastic things, but its a little difficult going to a perfumers website for the first time not knowing which one to buy ; )
She has lots of sample packages. You might try Cimabue for mysterious and Cafe Noir for coffee.
Hi Jason! I know that Gotham is very well thought of by other fans of Neil Morris. I think the sample pack of the regular line would give you a good idea of his style and range, but the vault fragrances are really interesting too!
P.S. My taste may be very different from yours, but the three I own are Hologram, Dark Earth, and Mariner. They’re all from the vault collection.
Thanks so much Haunani,
Samples seem quite reasonable and I’ll check out your ones in particular. Im really excited about them, ; )
J
Tabac Aurea by Sonoma Scent studios. Pungent, moist, sweet and salty tobacco leaves. Very long lasting, very mysterious and a bargain.
Thanks Helle,
That sound really interesting, I love unusual combinations and I love the homley feel of the brand. I got some samples frangrances from Aftelier e.g. cepes & tuberose and cognac. They smell wonderful from the sample bottle, but i cant smell them when they meet my skin.
All best,
J
Chanel Sycomore has a lovely development (at least on my boyfriend) and is unusual.
I recommend the Andy Tauer line-particularly Lonestar Memories, Vetiver Dance, and L’Air du Desert Marocain. The entire line is worthy of consideration.
L’Artisan Passage D’Enfer
Mazzolari Patchouli-very smooth
Chanel Egoiste – the original (not platinum)
The Different Company Sublime Balkiss
I absolutely second the Tauer line. Incense Extreme is a stunning scent, as is Lonestar Memories (which morphs as you wear it throughout the day) and L’Air du Desert Marocain is a beautiful, exotic scent. Def worth a thorough investigation! I also recommend popping into Dover St Market and checking out the Commes des Garcons range. There are some very unusual, wonderful scents in there – the incense range is a highlight.
Thanks so much Blimunda,
I was in Dover Street for the first time last week. I tried Stephen Jones which I’ve never tried, I really wanted to enjoy it, but couldent, it smelt sort of samey, but Im sure its just a matter of my nose acclimatizing.
Many thanks ; )
J
I tried Sycomore once, but again I was in a perfume hall and couldent focus properly on all the perfume mist in the room. But I look forward to it more. I have a sample of Beige but cant smell it at all! I love Bois des Iles and Rue Cambon.
Cant wait for Andy Tauers too, I over looked some of the L’artisans focusing on Timbuktu, Dzing and Patch, but I want to reexplore this.
I’ve never heard of the Mazzolari range, so will check it out, interesting website. I just discovered Fior d Ambra by Profumum. Love their wierd wierd Volo! I wasnt so aware of Italian niche lines but they are very interesting. Will get some vintage Egoiste (love the vintage ads) and will try The different company, though lots of the reccomendations are from American companies which Im not sure about availibility here, but I’ll try.
Much, much appreciated.
J
How about Czech and Speake’s Dark Rose, it’s woody with an oudh note-might be appealing??
I also second the Passage D’Enfer.
Jason, have fun sniffing and spritzing!
To continue on the dark rose theme:
L’Artisan Voleur de Rose
Lumiere Noir Pour Femme by MFK
Rose Paestum by Eau d’Italie ( a great line worth checking out anyway).
Dixie,
I LOVED Lumiere Noir. It made me want to try the rest of his scents and made me try Eau Noire which I listed above. But was unsure of the rest of the line of his own brand. Aqua Universalis???
Eau d Italie is another brand I’ve never heard of but sound really really interesting; )
Many thanks,
J
Frederic Malle Une Rose? It’s beauitiful and dark, very intellectual, and it never stops changing. I think for the right man, this could be an excellent choice.
Perfect,
Some of the line is conceptually beautiful, such as Therese, but I look forward to the Rose, even though I didnt register it the first time. I’m really curious about the headspace chambers
; )
J
Don’t let the name throw you, but you might want to try Rochas Femme. I’ll admit I don’t notice a difference between new and vintage, but most people seem to swear the vintage is so much better.
Hello Miss Kitty,
I tried Tocade, which was scary. Womanly womanly scents can make me cringe. Fem de Bois and Dolce Vita scare me a little but Im up to trying other parts of the line and Rochas Femme could be it.
Thanks so much,
J
I don’t think it’s girly at all. The cumin makes it… well, not pretty-pretty- girly-girly.
Long-lasting, changeable, and mysterious sound like vintage Magie Noire to me–and I think it could work for a man. The vintage edt is long-lasting and complex, but the current version has lost much of the complexity and much of the mystery.
That sound really really good, did a quick look on ebay, how do I diferentiate between vintage and non vintage. On perfumed court they sell the parfum, but should I get Edp? as I would like a larger bottle to explore over time. Fantastic ; )
J
The parfum is no longer made, so any you find will be older. I think, however, that I might start out with the edt, and only try the parfum (which is heavier) if you like the edt.
The rectangular 2.5 oz edt bottles with the gold cap are the current version of the edt. Any of the round splash bottles should be older versions, as are the glass spray bottles with black plastic on top and black sort of mushroom-shaped caps.
Have fun checking things out!
I think you’ve got excellent recs.already but I don’t think anyone has recommended yet Timbuktu by L’Artisan, and maybe Diorella which I think is an improvement of Eau Sauvage,good luck,Lo.
Oh, yes. If you haven’t tried Timbuktu, Jason, that is a masterpiece!
Oh, YES! Timbuktu is one of favourites. I reckon Mechant Loup is a weird, wonderful and quite stunning scent as well – I bet it would be incredible on a man.
Merchant Loup is one I havent tried yet, so cant wait ; )
J
Im curious about the Dioretc ranges. I know Diorissimo, which is too girly for me, but have read terrible terrible things about the rest of the Dior- range (where the fragrance name begins in Dior, dune, poisons, farenheits are all good). I found a bottle of the Dogtooth check bottle of Diorama, but have yet to try it. Timbuktu is very very good but not quite me, it just makes me want a woody lutens ; (
I think you should definitely explore the Comme des Garcons line; I would suggest Stephen Jones (Comme des Garcons X), as well as Odeur 71.
Definitely recommend the Tauer line (I too think Lonestar Memories might be up your alley), as well as Profumum (perhaps a touch more linear, but gorgeous).
I am very partial to the Les Nez line, especially Let Me Play the Lion (a dry wood scent), and L’Antimatière (an intimate skin scent stripped of any top notes), which I find terribly sexy.
(not sure what is sweet about Eau Sauvage though; that bit had me confused)
Am really curious about Odeur 71,saw it at Dover Street with Stephen Jones, I know 71 got great reviews, however I saw other sister ones Odeur 53 and dont know too much about them.
I smelt Volo once and WOW it was a mind blower, Fiori d ambr was very good, looking forward to try the rest of them. Le Nez I cant find in London but I’ll try some samples, I never know if skin scents are more complex and beautiful then scents with more silage?
The high street fragrancea I know are from a high street store called boots, these are displayed in very hot high fluro cabinets, so i do appreciate some of these scents have deterioated when I smell them. Eau Sauvage is quite sweet for me, maybe its the hedione? Im not sure yet. I would prefer it to be more dry. Maybe its the candied pine too?
All best,
J
Hey Jason —
I think you may have stumbled on the scent you should track down in vintage form… L’Eau Sauvage. There was a minor ’80s reformulation, but the major reformulation took place in the past year or two — this is no doubt what you have been smelling… I have a bottle from ’82, and it has the sharp quality you seem to be seeking… no way should Eau Sauvage have a candied pine quality! At least, not the classic formulation of the scent. (I can’t believe they have done that…!). Here is an article comparing a ’70s version of Eau Sauvage to the current:
http://www.peredepierre.com/2009/05/eau-sauvage-then-and-now-dior.html
The classic Eau Sauvage literally makes me swoon; I have been known to follow Eau Sauvage scent trails in crowds… in my case, there is a very primal scent imprint at work, but the original work is a masterpiece. From the article above, it is clear that the original formula is more complex and has a touch of green chypre — which to me sounds like the fragrance you are seeking.
The scent that I have gotten for my husband is Malle’s French Lover. Although a very different fragrance, it is the same calibre as Eau Sauvage — gentlemanly, and well-behaved but at its core, deeply sensual. It might be another possibility for you…
http://perfumesmellinthings.blogspot.com/2008/05/perfume-review-frederic-malle-french.html
http://www.nathanbranch.com/2009/08/photos-frederic-malle-bois-dor.html
L’Antimatière literally has no head notes; that is the conceit of the fragrance. What I find so beautiful about it is it’s intimacy, that shamelessly comfortable morning-after crumpled linen sheets sort of intimacy; a salty, briny softly sweet musk, which I have read compares to the scent of true ambergris. Many people (usually those who appreciate high sillage) are actually anosmotic to this scent, so a sample is vital.
Let Me Play the Lion is tauntingly, teasingly, dry and elusive until it climaxes and resolves into a gently dry-down. Stunning. I am constantly surprised that it is not more well-known than it is. Les Nez are so hard to find, I just order directly from the website.
Good luck in your pursuit Jason — and keep us posted on what you finally pick.
I’d like to recommend that you try both CdG 2 as well as CdG 2 Man. Both smell amazing on my husband. If you’re at a CdG counter, try CdG 3 as well which is weird but wonderful. I’m also a fan of Terre d’Hermes. Not sure if you’re into Creeds, but you might want to give Tabarome a whirl.
Last of all, have you considered 31 Rue Cambon? You might really enjoy it and its little sister (to me anyways), Tom Ford Black Violet.
Another hand up for CdG2!
I haven’t smelled the men’s version.
You’ve had some fabulous suggestions here Jason. If you try all this and still want more, I recommend trying the Parfumerie Generale line.
Iris Taizo (now Iris Oriental) has a fantastic development.
Cuir d’Iris has a loyal following.
Many here love his Aomassi but I didn’t. Definitely worth checking out!
Bois Blond?
Hello Jemimagold,
I didnt quite CdG 2 Man but look forward to CdG Woman. 3 I havent come across yet! I love some creeds like Royal Scottish Lavender, but some of the other ones less so, couldent smell Green Itish Tweed but Tabrome I want to try. I love La Pausa, not tried Cambon, and Tom Fords are so Ubiquitous in London it puts me off alittle as does their sales reps. Tried Mossy Breeches which was so so, but will try Black Violet,
Most appreciated,
J
If Jason likes Fille en Aiguilles AND weirdness, I would recommend Wazamba by Parfum d’Empire. It shares many of Fille’s elements (pine needles, woodsmoke) but throws in a fascinating and fiery burnt-apple note. Its persistence is superior to Filles, but it isn’t at all linear. It sits alongside Breath of God in my personal weird category. (For that matter, throw Breath of God into the mix. Now THERE’S changeable.)
Take a sniff of Eau Suave (Parf. DEmpire) and they also have a smoky one…Fugerie (sp???) cant remember the name…
Hello Olenska,
Thanks for your reccomendations. I heard of Wazamba and its pine qualities however I didnt want to try it initially because I was afraid that it would eclipse Fille! But however Im sure its time to give it a go, and Im sure it will throw up other aspects to the pine accord. Superior silage would be fantastic, as Fille is a little too close to the skin for my liking.
Breath of God sounds really exciting too. I like wierdness and unusuality. I got the Dreamer, Versace, and found it medium interesting, but I dont love it. It smells very sugary and watery, almost like a sugar almond left outside in the rain on the road next to a pool of leaked petrol which is starting to refract. Black was ok, but dosent change much, I dont mind the tarry notes, its just a bit anodyne…
All best,
J
You have great taste, Jason!
I want to second the PGs and suggest that you also sample Coze, Cuir Venenum and Brulure de Rose from that line. Happy hunting!
Fantastic, I found a place behing Victoria which sells this line, but again its going to be mighty difficult to try only one at a time and focus. ; )
Much love,
Jason
You have great taste and what a great read this was today! Ill 2nd trying Neil Morris (Burnt Amber and the Jasmine for men…) and add Vie de Chatea Parfums d Nicolai. And def. stop by Ormonde Jayne to try some of the OJs…I have a feeling you will really like OJ Woman! Also, have you ever tried CAron Sacre? I just happened to have some parfum on hand tonight and thought you might like…
Caron!
I tried Sacre in its EDP, but didnt let it linger long enough. I love Tabac Blonde Parfum where the EDP/Parfum difference is really noticable. I like Troisemme Homme, which would be an everyday fragrance for me. Its not really special special intimate love. Something Im really really interested in is Nuit de Noel. EDP and EDT of this was terrible but I got to smell the Parfum once and really liked it. I read alot about its chestnut drydown and like the idea of this, but I only get it to a degree. It also smells very asian and not at all European.
All best,
J
A male perfume friend of mine just fell in love with Nuit de Noel. He’s sending me a sample. It sounds very special!
This is my first post in a Monday Mail (I’ve never been game enough to step in due to my cluelessness and believe me very little has changed) but I’ll recommend Divine L’Homme Sage because it’s one of my favourites and I think has that interesting, mysterious, changing vibe going on. A little smoke, some incense a little sweetness from the lychee, hopefully you’ll give it a try Jason!
Great reccomendation,
Divine is a name I havent come across. I love the idea of Sage and Lychee. Sage can be problematic though, I hate the sage lavender in Jicky, Sage on its own is good. I love smells like Tarragon, but Sage is a kind of Beef and Lamb smell!???
All best,
J ; )
As Nozknoz said, “You have great taste, Jason!” Based on your tastes, I’m guessing something that comes across as a woody-spicy, dry floral might be your game. Some of these options might seem counterintuitive, but give them a try:
1. “1000” by Jean Patou. Dried flowers and tweed on a rainy day. A scent I always thought would develop beautifully on a man’s skin. Contains high amounts of osmanthus note, something I think you might appreciate for its dry, almost woody density, combined with a creamy-smooth, floral headiness.
2. “Bois des Isles” by Chanel. A dark, smooth, wood and dried leaves surrounded by woodsmoke blend, with a little incense thrown into the pile.
3. “Ambergris Oil” at Caswell-Massey. Cheap and charming. Reminds me of polished church wood with a liquorish, salty, spicy kick. Kind of like a drunk, crusty sea captain taunting and mocking parishoners at Sunday service.
4. “Chere Louise” by Crazylibellule and The Poppies. I’m back on a “kick” with this brand. This velvety, dry wood and frayed cotton smelling blend, is cheap and perfect for both men and women. The guaic and opponax give a distinctly masculine feel to it.
5. “Let me Plasy Lion” by Les Nez. An almost infuriating incense that teases, puffs and sweetens, before deciding on being pencil shavings and polished wood. In other words: Excellent.
I hope you find something that’s perfect for you!
Hello NLB,
I think thats really accurate. I do appreciate florals, but prefer them dry and woody spicy fits the bill.
I’ve only tried the Jean Patous in EDT’s which is a shame, but 1000 is one I wanted to know better. I read of its complexity which is something I like.
Bois de Iles it one I wanted to explore more. I am unsure of the staying power of the Chanel Exclusives range. I used to not buy EDT’s because I thought they last for so short a time their cant be much development. Im sure it differs between perfume. Beige I cant smell at all.
I love the thought of Ambergris as of cheap! To find an everyday scent I can afford on a daily basis would be much much appreciated.
Chere Louise- I brought the Opponox and Guiac essential oils to try and see what they’re like in real life, quite wierd! but very interesting. Fantastic.
Let me Play the Lion, I think I this will be one of my first choices to buy as I’ve heard so many great things about it and its really specific to my tastes.
Thanks so much for reccomending these and tailor making them. With appreciation,
J
do try them all… (the chanel exculsives, I mean) rue cambon has a huge staying power on me, bois des iles doesn’t, but it’s very individual! You have received such great recommendations, I’m sure we’re all pondering over the list. I’m not sure, but I have the impression that Montale is missing, the oud note can be a bit harsh at the beginning but mellows down, try a selection…
Serge Lutens Bois de Violette!!! This scent, on me at least, goes through so many gorgeous incarnations. Also recommend Pascal Morabito Or Black and Guerlain Derby. Would have also recommended Histoires des Parfums but you have discovered them already, and yes, absolutely go to the Ormonde Jayne boutique off Bond Street to smell Ormonde Man.
And oh, Masion Francis Kurkdjian… I have actually liked everyone of the scents in this line… from the bright, clean, fresh purity of Acqua Universalis to clean white shirt fresh citrus breeziness of Cologne pour le Matin to the delicious darkness of Lumiere Noire and the snuggly warmth of Cologne pour le Soir…
In case Jason checks back in one last time, I should have recommended the Nasomatto line! Duro is a spicy masculine and you might also like Absinthe.
Hello everyone,
I’ve taken this list and crunched it down into an excel spreadsheet.
Over the next two months I’m going to go through all the reccomendations and let you guys know how I’ve done.
Thanks so so much for it all and I look forward to letting you know.
All best,
Jason