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The Monday Mail ~ help Malte find a new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 7 June 2010 36 Comments

Letterbox

Before we start with today's subject, Malte, I wanted to note that we've just about cleared through the waiting list for the Monday Mail: if you ever thought you might like to be a subject, this would be a good time to apply. You can find the instructions here.

So, Malte lives in Germany, and he's looking for a new evening-wear fragrance. He's willing to pay about $100, and although he doesn't want to shop online, he lives in a town with good perfume shopping, including many niche options. Here is what we know about Malte:

He's in his early 20s and is studying English literature.

He is interested in fashion, traveling and (new wave, indie rock, electronic) music.

His style could be described as modern, European, sophisticated — slim silhouettes, mostly black, white and grey.

Malte likes dry and woody fragrances with amber and/or patchouli; he also likes iris. His long-time favorite is Prada Amber Pour Homme. He also owns Marc Jacobs for Men, Kenzo Power, Annayaké Tomo, Viktor & Rolf Antidote and the new Balenciaga Eau de Parfum. He recently tried Comme des Garçons 2 Man and loved it, especially the dark, leathery masculine quality. He'd love to find something similar:  leathery, warm and a bit out of the box.

Malte doesn't like anything with aquatic or citrus notes.

Here is what Malte has tried so far:

Lalique Encre Noire: close to what he's looking for.

Balmain Ambre Gris: started out well, but became weirder and weirder as it dried down.

Dior Homme Intense: smelled good on paper, but transformed into heavy vanilla bomb on skin.

Boudicca Wode: too short-lived.

What say you?

Note: top image is Letterbox [cropped] by Roby Ferrari at flickr; some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: monday mail

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36 Comments

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  1. PetronellaCJ says:
    7 June 2010 at 10:38 am

    More of inside the box: Penhaligon’s Artemisia, Ulrich Lang Anvers or Hermès Rocabar.
    More of outside the box: Bulgari Black, L’Artisan Dzongkha or Robert Piguet Bandit!

    Log in to Reply
    • 734elizabeths says:
      7 June 2010 at 11:07 am

      Bulgari Black is exactly what I was thinking! Malte, you’ll either love it or hate it.

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    • boojum says:
      7 June 2010 at 12:59 pm

      Second the Bandit!

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  2. Dixie says:
    7 June 2010 at 10:56 am

    Andy Tauer L’Air du Desert Maurocain
    ” ” Lonestar Memories just because
    L’Artisan Dzing for leather
    Mazzolari Patchouli-deep and resinous
    Bois 1920 Sutra Ylang and Sushi Imperiale
    Il Profumo Ambre del Nepal

    I hope some of this is helpful!

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    • elise says:
      7 June 2010 at 10:57 am

      2nd Ambre Nepal….

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  3. elise says:
    7 June 2010 at 10:56 am

    Not a leather expert, but Cuir de Lancome comes to mind…maybe Chanel’s Cuir or Coromandel as well?
    I 2nd Bvlb. Black … for anyone. Just love it!
    Oromonde Man is worth a sniff for the woodsy-ness.
    And I’ll throw in Parfum’s Empire/Eau Suave for just something different…worth a sniff to see if you like something unisex that might simply be interesting….

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    • Dixie says:
      7 June 2010 at 11:03 am

      Ormond Man-amazing! Good suggestion!

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  4. Rictor07 says:
    7 June 2010 at 10:59 am

    I suggest the following, which i prefer over Encre Noire, but i feel is in the same vein.

    Etat Libre D’Orange – Fat Electrician
    Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier – Route du Vetiver

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    • Dixie says:
      7 June 2010 at 11:06 am

      Can you imagine some one nuzzling up to you? “Mmmmm, You smell sooooo good(purr purr). What are you wearing?”. “Um, I’m wearing Fat Electrician.”

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      • elise says:
        7 June 2010 at 11:15 am

        I was thinking the same thing!!! haha!

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  5. Suzanne941 says:
    7 June 2010 at 11:11 am

    Third the Bandit! Also, he sounds like a guy who might like Bois 1920 Come la Luna. No leather, but would pick up on that woody, dry, amberish liking. Happy sniffing!

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  6. Evil Emma says:
    7 June 2010 at 11:20 am

    What about Parfum d’Empire Cuir Ottoman? Lovely combination of leather and iris.

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    • jirish says:
      7 June 2010 at 1:50 pm

      Second this! It’s a great scent. He might also want to consider Ambre Russe.

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  7. Liza says:
    7 June 2010 at 11:29 am

    I second the Dzongkha, and suggest:

    Frederic Malle’s French Lover (known as Bois D’Orage in the U.S.)
    Pascal Morabito’s Or Black
    Caron’s Yatagan

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  8. Haunani says:
    7 June 2010 at 12:05 pm

    I third the Dzongkha and suggest that Malte sniff Timbuktu also. And if he has access to the Parfumerie Generale line, there are lots of treasures that he might love!

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    • boojum says:
      7 June 2010 at 1:00 pm

      Agree with all the above!

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  9. meadowbliss says:
    7 June 2010 at 12:11 pm

    I agree with PdE Cuir Ottoman. A beautiful choice. And Santal Noble although that’s a bit over budget. Dzing and Dzongka are also good and my favorite of all, Lonestar Memories. Someone just sampled me with Tom Ford Noir de Noir and my heavens! Wonderful. Again, could be out of price range since I’m heard tell on here that his pricing is way high.

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  10. boojum says:
    7 June 2010 at 1:02 pm

    Many/most of these would end up being decants, probably, but worth a try:
    Chanel – Sycomore, Cuir de Russie
    Eau d’Italie – Bois d’Ombrie or Sienne l’Hiver
    Everything else I would have suggested was already listed above.

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  11. Joe says:
    7 June 2010 at 1:07 pm

    I’m realizing it’s difficult to work within the “about $100” constraint sometimes, though 50ml bottles of L’Artisan & many of the Comme des Garçons line fall in that category.

    My recommendations for evening scents with Malte’s prefs in mind:
    – Lancôme Hypnôse Homme (amber lavender, very warm)
    – Hermes Bel Ami (not a favorite of mine, but many love this)
    – Santa Maria Novella Peau d’Espagne (amazing leather; very strong at first, but calms down to beauty 85€).

    I’d be curious to know what it was about Comme des Garçons 2 Man and Encre Noire that didn’t work — they sound like they were winners. What was missing?

    Good luck, Malte.

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  12. Ericgmd says:
    7 June 2010 at 1:13 pm

    Boss Bottled. Inexpensive and easily available. A true niche quality for a mainstream commercial fragrance thanks to Annick Menardo’s talent.

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  13. Blimunda says:
    7 June 2010 at 1:42 pm

    I reckon you will LOVE Escentric 01 and Molecule 01. They’re created by a Berlin based perfumer called Geza Schoen. Molecule 01 is the pure chemical Iso E Super, and it starts off very subtle and almost unnoticeable – it gradually develops on the skin though, and is described as more of a ‘pheremonic scent aroma’ rather than a perfume. The Escentric 01 is a development of the Molecule with added woody and peppery notes, and is quite masculine and very modern, sleek, woody and sexy.

    I second Bandit, Timbuktu and suggest trying Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan and (once it is released at christmas!) Cuir Mauresque.

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  14. jorid says:
    7 June 2010 at 1:50 pm

    Chanel Egoïste? Or is that maybe too sweet?

    I agree with Haunai that there are many treasures from Parfumerie Generale, and the 30 mls are well below the 100 usd limit. L’Ombre Fauve or Bois Blonde maybe? They are both lovely on my early-20s boyfriend :)

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  15. monkeytoe says:
    7 June 2010 at 1:51 pm

    You might like another Mark Buxton (CdG 2 Man nose) creation w/ leather Sander Scent 79 Man. PG Cuir Venenum is a wonderful outside of the box leather. In the direction of Encre Noir is Etro Vetiver. Good luck!

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    • nozknoz says:
      7 June 2010 at 10:29 pm

      Second PG Cuir Venenum – beautiful and weird! Also love PG Coze for patchouli.

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      • monkeytoe says:
        8 June 2010 at 11:59 am

        I love Coze, too.

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  16. Ericgmd says:
    7 June 2010 at 2:00 pm

    M7 by YSL. An amazing Vetiver and Amber with a little Oud…

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  17. maggiecat says:
    7 June 2010 at 2:20 pm

    Again, we might be looking at decants here, but Chanel’s Bois des Iles is a wonderful, dry, woody scent. Dior’s Escale di Pondichery has a delghtful woody- tea note as well, and both of these are easily unisex. And I love most of the Hermes masculines – they’re all definitely worth a try! Good luck!

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  18. detva says:
    7 June 2010 at 3:36 pm

    I’m also a big fan of Cuir Ottoman (PdE) when it comes to leather, especially when the call is for “evening wear”. Andy Tauer’s Lonestar Memories is also a favorite, winning big points in the “out of the box” competition, of course, but try wearing that, say, in a tux!
    As for wood, I would highly recommend a sniff of CdG Monocle Scent One Hinoki – just sensational, very dry, very out of the box, totally evening-wearable. And while we’re at it: how about that upcoming wonderwood stuff from CdG? Can’t wait.

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  19. meadowbliss says:
    7 June 2010 at 4:17 pm

    I also wanted to add that Malte might enjoy this link to the leather series by Helg which mentions Koelnisch Juchten. For leather lovers it’s a fascinating post.

    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/2007/12/leather-series-5-cuir-de-russie-vs-peau.html

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  20. TallulahRose says:
    7 June 2010 at 4:24 pm

    I have 2 suggestions…

    Malles’ French Lover, which is over his budget, but extraordinarily excellent, and just what he is looking for. This is one of the finest vetiver-based fragrances I know of.

    Next, I would suggest Let Me Play the Lion, from the Swiss perfume house, Les Nez. It’s aching dryness twirls and teases, until it leads to resolution. I find it unbearably sexy. This one has a character of dry woodiness.

    Oh — and a third suggestion for a leather fragrance: Andy Tauer’s Lonestar Memories. Dark, gorgeous leather with a touch of rubber; beautifully done.

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  21. SmokeyToes says:
    7 June 2010 at 5:25 pm

    I third all the suggestions for Bvlgari Black, but also would recommend Coriolan by Guerlain, or Gentiane Blanche by Hermes. Both contain lovely dry woods. Coriolan can be found for a song on discount web sites.

    If you want something out of the box, I’d also recommend Estee Lauder’s Azuree. It’s a great leather chypre, very sexy on a man (tried it on my hubby), it’s reasonably priced at 38 dollars u.s. Base notes are: orris patchouli, leather, oakmoss, amber, and musk.

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    • redscorpio says:
      7 June 2010 at 7:13 pm

      I love Azuree as well. Another suggestion is Histoire de Parfumes 1740 Marquis de Sade although it may be over the $100 limit.

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  22. kaos.geo says:
    7 June 2010 at 7:45 pm

    I recommend Heritage de Guerlain EDT.
    I hear it has been reformulated, so proceed with caution.

    Also, does anyone know if Helmut Lang’s Cuiron is still in production?

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  23. nozknoz says:
    7 June 2010 at 10:51 pm

    As noted above, I like the suggestion of the PGs very much. Also SL Daim Blond it an attractive and innovative leather.

    A line that has beautiful, high quality scents for absurdly low prices is Parfums de Nicolai. (The trick is they don’t spend anything on PR and packaging.) I liked Vie de Chateau so much that I ordered up samples of all the masculines but haven’t tested them yet, so I’m not much help in narrowing it down. But why not try them all: you could get TWO small Nicolais!

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  24. latoureiffel says:
    8 June 2010 at 5:04 am

    Not niche, but I suggest Gucci Pour Homme. IMHO a very sexy, woody fragrance, yet not too heavy. Not sure if this works with indie rock, though, but it does suit the other specifications ;-)

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  25. AnnieA says:
    9 June 2010 at 3:00 pm

    Comptoir Sud Pacifique’s Bois de Filao is reasonably priced. Might be on the mild-mannered side, though.

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