Today we're helping Nike, who lives in southern Sweden and wants to find a summer perfume that will work in cool Swedish summers and in hotter climates — she's planning a trip to Israel and Egypt this summer. Her fragrance should be feminine and summery, work for day or night (although she's willing to consider layering at night for more depth), have good longevity and some sillage, and cost less than $135. Here is what we know about Nike:
She's in her mid-20s and works in human resources. She also works as a consultant on topics relating to religion and the Middle East.
She says she is perceived as a bookish academic, but she also has a creative and witty side.
She gets compliments for being calm and collected at all times, but often feels life is chaotic.
She enjoys history, antiques, nice wines and kitschy oriental music.
Nike usually wears light orientals. She likes notes of amber, incense, galbanum, citrus, lavender, vanilla, and herbs such as rosemary. Perfumes she loves and/or wears include Guerlain Shalimar, Calvin Klein Obsession, Bvlgari Omnia, Tauer Perfumes L'air du desert marocain, Christian Dior Tender Poison. She loved the old Laura Ashley L'eau, and she enjoys Kenzo Amour as an office scent.
She does not like rose, melon, violet, heavy oudh notes, aldehydes or marine/ozonic notes. Perfumes she dislikes include Issey Miyake L'eau D'Issey, Stella McCartney Stella and all the Britney Spears fragrances.
Here are the perfumes Nike has tried recently:
Givenchy Eau Demoiselle: not bad, but poor longevity.
Prada Amber: too tart and weird, but she did like the Intense and the Tendre.
Prada Infusion d'Iris: couldn't smell a thing!
Miss Dior Cherie: a little too sweet, but pleasant enough.
What say you?
Note: image is Letter Box, Luxembourg by sludgegulper at flickr; some rights reserved.
I’m still learning about ambers myself, but what about:
Hermes Ambre Narguile ?
I also might suggest a sniff of Serge Lutens Féminité du Bois and Keiko Mercheri’s Genie de Bois (which I find so interestingly spicy!)
Nike, I know that you stated that you do not like aldehydes, but may I suggest giving Santa Maria Novella Melograno a sniff? Your interests, passions, & travel destinations mirror many of my own and Melograno I feel in many ways embodies these for me. While it is an aldehyde there’s something very incense-y & oriental about it and it comes from a perfumery with quite a bit of history. It’s also summery, bright, yet elegant, refined and a little mysterious. I wear it year round and find it to suit any climate or situation. It’s also a great ‘travel’ perfume and has excellent lasting ability and good sillage.
At $110 for a 3.3 oz splash bottle it meets your budget, as well.
Have a lovely trip. I’m dying to get over there soon myself.
Omnia is one fo my favorites too, and in the summer I really like Omnia Crystalline, which seems to me to have all the characteristics you are looking for and would defintely work both in cooler and hotter weather. They two are not THAT closely related but they have a similar feel to them, in my opinion, which gives me a nice sense of staying “in the family” from season to season.
Hermes Le Jardin sur le Nil jumped out at me…light fruit and flowers (but not fruity-floraly) over an incense base. Great in the heat and has terrific longevity. And a trip to Egypt! What could be better
You can find it pretty easily online too.
Also in the family (JCE’s daughter): The Different Company Sublime Balkiss, which is a little sweeter than Nil.
“Kitschy oriental music”! LOL! And that sounds like a great trip.
(On a side note: I couldn’t smell the Prada Infusion d’iris either. Not a whiff.)
Seconding that UJSLN recommendation – it holds up beautifully in the heat.
And add me to the list of people who can’t smell Infustion d’Iris.
I second Sublime Balkiss!
Since you wear L’Air du Desert marocain, i suggest trying Serge Lutens 5 o’clock au gingembre.
My first thought when reading herbs, citrus, and summer was Eau de Guerlain. Guerlain Jicky could work, with its lavender and vanilla. And Chanel Cristalle, which is citrusy, green, and floral, is worth a try too.
Second the Cristalle, which was my first thought, too; I think of it as a really good fragrance for a capable woman! Bel Respiro might also be good, . On the spicier side, Terra Cotta (Guerlain) is a sheer floral spice; you migh also like OJ Orris Noir and Champaca. Another thing you might like is L’Artisan Jatamansi; it’s a little peculiar, a stemmy green with a spicy note, and would do well in the heat.
I second all these suggestions as good ones for you to try!
Orris Noir and Champaca. Needs a sample set.
Second the Jicky, and would add Guerlain’s Chamade and Sous Le Vent. The SLV would be out of your price range, but decants are easily available.
Jicky is always lovely, but Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte might be especially nice for summer as well.
Hi, and thank you for your suggestions! Taking notes of all of them…
Elisa: I absolutely love Ambré Narguilé, but I am a bit scared that while it works wonderfully back home in Sweden (we have 7 degrees celsius today…) it might not be as pleasant in warmer climates. Do you have experience from wearing it during a hot summer?
Klytaemnestra: I really like the idea of Melograno, so perhaps I can get over the aldehydes, given they are balanced by something else. The incense in it does sound lovely. Is it a fresh scent, because I have in mind that I would like a sort of fresh but still oriental scent? And I definitely recommend travelling in the Middle East! This year I won’t make it to West Bank and Jordan but the whole area is fabulous and worth exploring!
Suzanne941: I am so glad to hear I am not the only one anosmic to Infusion d’Iris!! I am flyging to Amsterdam next week and I will amongst others sniff Jardin sur le Nil again, I tried it a few months ago, found it a bit “cold”, but the drydown (which I noticed when it was already too late to buy a bottle) was very nice indeed!
Nike, I find the aldehydes to kind of balance everything out. I’m not sure if I’d call it ‘fresh’ necessarily, but there is something very bright and clean about it. It’s kind of bizarre in some ways as many SMN fragrances are, but then everything settles to this lovely clean incense.
I’ve yet to travel to the Middle East. My last plans to travel to Israel were unfortunately thwarted by conflict a few years ago and I simply haven’t had the time since. It was a huge area of study for me and a constant passion.
I think I might give Melograno a go actually, if it doesn’t work on me I’ll pass it on to someone else. Just out of curiosity, does it smell anything like actual pomegranate? I love that sort of clean tartness that I find in fresh pomegranates. And you really should try and find the time to go, there are some excellent seminars in the Jerusalem area for example, if you want to study the history/architecture/religion/culture and so on.
While I don’t think it necessarily smells like pomegranate, there is something very tart about it. It’s truly a fragrance that needs to be experienced to fully understand it.
I think at this rate my fiance’ & I are planning on taking an extended honeymoon in the region. Want to visit Egypt, Istanbul, & parts of Israel. I’m looking into getting my Masters in Middle Eastern history & religion in the near future, as well.
K, I dream of a trip to Instanbul since…well, since years!
I always back at the last moment before booking, stupid me.
I envy your knowledge in Middle Eastern history & religion, it is a subject that really fascinates me.
BTW, I also like SMN Acqua di Melograno very much, it has a nice and unique “clean-from-another-time” smell, and one can always use the very fragrant melograno body products as an option to the actual juice!
Just chiming in to say that I have trouble handling some aldehydes, but I didn’t notice them much at all in Melograno. It’s a different and very nice fragrance!
Nike, I can’t resist recommending Etro Shaal Nur for you, as it combines many of the elements you say you like. Please look at reviews for this one and see if you would like it. I consider it a seasonless fragrance, though I wouldn’t wear it on the hottest summer days.
Two others that I think might be just right for you are Yves Rocher Voile d’Ambre, a lovely light amber/incense with a citrussy opening; and Belle en Rykiel, a light oriental blend of citrus, lavender, incense, amber, and other good things. I love wearing both of these, and think that they’d be perfect for cool and warm summers!
I was debating about what to wear this morning, and just talked myself into Belle en Rykiel. Perfect!
I have actually been dreaming of a frangrance that combines something incensy with lavender and citrus – YUM!!! Need to find that Belle en Rykiel pronto!
Two of my favorite summer incense fragrances are Barbara Bui (discontinued, but available online & ebay) for a lovely, soft incense floral, or Miyako by Annayaké (also available online), which is, to my nose, a lighter & more feminine version of L’Air du Desert marocain. Both have good longevity on me. And, you might be able to get BOTH and still be within your budget. Enjoy your travels!
(I’m envious of Suzanne941 who says Le Jardin sur le Nil has great longevity on her! Lasts about 1/2 hour on me….
Annayake Miyako is an awesome fragrance if you like spice. It worth finding on ebay.
Based on the oriental notes you favour I can think of several perfumes… but I am not so sure they could work equally well in Swedish summer and Egyptian heat. I actually find it difficult to imagine something doing wonders in both environments, unless it is a plain citrus cologne, which is something I am not going to encourage!!!
Anyway, here is my list: Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan, Chergui or Fumerie turque, Parfums d’empire Cuir Ottoman or Ambre Russe, a decant of Tonka Imperiale or bois d’armenie (I haven’t tried these two, but they seem apt. a decant should keep the steep price at bay). These should be fine for Swedish summer nights: I know some brave folks who wear them all year round, in warmer climates!
Otherwise Eau d’Italie’s Eau d’Italie (a citrus with a twist and an interesting warm base, though still very light) and Guerlain’s great Mouchoir de Monsieur. These two should be nice even at high North-African temperatures, and not boring in Sweden!
But I would suggest that during your trip you go searching for nard essential oil: that will allow to smell really great without spending much! In Israel you will certainly find it as Nard herbs were used in religious cerimonies. I’d love to find some of the real stuff where I live, I’m on a quest since I smelled it…Enjoy your trip!!!
Oh, I saw some good ones in there! I think I will spend weeks browsing and sampling!
Zazie just listed several of my favourites, so I will give them all a hearty second. I recommend Chergui in particular. It is named after the hot desert wind and I can attest that it smells great in hot weather. I wore it to my son’s football game a couple of weeks ago and it bloomed beautifully in the heat without being overpowering. I find it very fresh and clean smelling – like sweet hay in the summer sun.
I’m going with Bois 1920 Classic 1920. It’s a sophisticated but warm citrusy oriental, perfect for summer. It manages somehow to be sparkly without being aldehydic.
L’Artisan L’ Ete en Douce is the first thing that comes to my mind. It’s sort of herbal (hay, mint, grass) and sweet (linden, orange blossom) at the same time and it conjures up images of hayfields and sunshine in my mind. It’s undoubtedly feminine, absolutely romantic but not at all old fashioned or boring. This is what Chloe *should* have smelled like.
How about Ineke Field Notes from Paris? I didn’t find that to be an overly rich scent, it might work very well.
I second Eau D’Italie.
I’m also leaning towards Hermes Jardin en Mediterranee. I’ve been reaching for the constantly since the weather got warmer….I like that the fig starts sweet but then adds depth as the fragrance progresses. Also, the price is good and it seems to work on so many people.
Nike, you have to; HAVE TO sniff Christian Dior Dune! It has everything you wish for – beautiful amber notes, vanilla and dried herbs. In Sweden it will make you feel like you’r alone on the beach in the summer. In hot weather it will be just too beautiful to describe
I own it, and love it on other people, but on me it tends to smell very very salty (??) But it’s worth re-sniffing, now when you put it that way
Take it to the trip with you, Dune is amazing on hot weather.
By the way, if you’ll reach the corner with Montale perfumes – try Sandflower, it’s quite nice too.
You have a lot of good suggestions already. Since you like l’Air, and you like lavender, I would suggest Andy Tauer’s Reverie au Jardin. I would also recommend Sands of Aqaba, which is a sheer floral incense…like a light version of some of the Amouages. To me, it’s more of a fall scent, but based on your note/style preferences, I think you might find it great for summer. And two that call to mind indian summer (so should straddle cool/hot well): Parfumerie Generale’s Bois Blond, and CBIHP’s A Room with a View (which lists violet as a note, but I mostly got dried hay/grasses and dusty earth).
I recommend Chance de Chanel or one of its flankers
Good morning Nike
Well I see you don’t like marine/ozonic and I don’t feel it is AT ALL but do you like Hermes Eau de Merveilles? It’s smells herbal and salty and dries down to yumminess in hot weather, yes it doesn’t last forever but you can apply more and because it’s not so pricey you can afford too. Also 10 Corso Como? That smells woody at first and then musky incense- sandalwood love in the house?
You like Kenzo Amour too? Gaaahh I love it and it made me also realize that for cooler temps try Montale Vanilla Absolu, it’s so simple but better than you think, it smells like the gelato called Burnt Cream and it lasts and lasts<3
Enjoy your travels and smelling all the suggestions everyone is giving you.
Hi there Nike. So many good suggestions and I would like to add Guerlain Tonka Imperiale [which Robin reviewed just the other day]. I think a tonka note is very vanilla-ish and with the rosemary note, this fragrance seems like it would be right up your alley. Also, I don’t know if you do any online ordering and not sure if Ava Luxe does overseas shipping – but she has a scent simply called Incense that is so lovely – a very green and fresh incense fragrance that’s great for all seasons. Ava Luxe is on Etsy.
Yaaay people visiting Israel! It’s the most beautiful country in the world. I would LOVE to visit Egypt, too, after my Arabic gets a bit better.
Now, Israel and Egypt will be hot as all hell in the summertime. Anything heavy will feel beyond overwhelming. I recommend the original Prada for men. It’s spicy, but nowhere near the Prada Ambre. I think it would be great for someone who prefers lighter orientals.
It is also possible to find perfumes at VERY good prices at Israeli “superpharms” (the large pharmacies). Have a wonderful trip!
Indeed, it is a fantastic place!
I have a lot of family and friends there so I usually spend one month a year there and 11 months wishing I was there 
Egypt is lovely and strange, you should go there, but preferably speaking arabic or travelling with someone who does, in my opinion. The superpharms are great, but for some reason I sort of never get past the body products.. Maybe it does have to do with the heat? I am staying in Bat Yam, and the humidity there is quite spectacular.
How about Diorella for its citrus and herbs?
Or you might also like Jo Malone’s Dark Amber & Ginger Lily. Despite the name it’s not that dark and should work in cooler or warmer weather. It’s a creamy, woodsy scent with just enough greenery to keep things from getting too cloying or sweet. It’s a limited edition that they keep bringing out every once in a while and it’s available at the moment.
I get a creamy sandalwood vibe from Dark Amber and Ginger Lily and it is nice paired with the other Kohdo fragrance – something and Water Lily? I’ve also read it was an LE, but the Saks close to me seems to always have it in stock.
Have you tried Bvlgari Jasmin Noir? Also, I’m not sure if you can get it where you are, but you may also enjoy Parfums Delrae Bois de Paradis.
Try Annick Goutal Eau du Sud. It’s a lovely citrus and basil that work well in the summer heat. I just wish it would get warm enough here the Midwest to start wearing it.
Reading your list of notes, three scents came to mind. Hermes’ Terre d’Hermes has a citrus mineral woods vibe that is very refreshing in the heat. It may be too masculine for some, but I find it completely unisex. Two more that are in that same theme are the Escentric Molecules’ Escentric 01 and Escentric 02. Incense, woods and citrus, both strangely fascinating. I use the plain Molecule 01 in travel, as it is lovely, haunting even, but not so big as to invade others’ space. I live in an incredibly hot, but humid environment, so I’m sure these would be safe bets in the heat. Best wishes to you in your travels.
Hello Nike! Since you like incense, herbs, and vanilla, I think Etro Shaal Nur would be PERFECT for you. It is a light, airy, summer-y incense, and will work wonderfully for day and night. It’s beautiful! Another “summery” incense you might enjoy is L’Artisan Parfumeur Passage d’Enfer.
For a floral approach, L’Artisan Parfumeur The Pour un Ete is a simply lovely summer scent- jasmine and green tea. In that same vein, Ormonde Jayne Champaca is nice as well, with champaca flower (obviously!), neroli, green tea, and basmati rice notes.
I would say that Shaal Nur and Passage d’Enfer are closer to being unisex scents (but certainly not manly) while the The Pour un Ete and Champaca are very feminine. I hope these recommendations fit the bill. Good luck on your search, and enjoy your amazing adventures in Israel and Egypt!
Hi all
I would third the Jicky, and also suggest SSS Femme Jolie, it has spice (cinnamon and clove) with a lovely cedar/vanilla/sandalwood base.
I also have a feeling you’d love Fendi’s Theorema Esprit d’Ete, but it’s now discontinued and getting much harder to find. It is a lovely light oriental scent though.
Have you tried Tiempe Passat? Lovely in hot weather- a nice dry classic floral (also a bit salty- delicious). I second the Shaal Nur and the Reverie au Jardin.
Parfumerie Generale Iris Orientale came to mind first-a beautiful spicy scent.
Someone else suggested Orris Noir by Ormond Jayne-fantastic!
For incense: Matthew Williamson Incense is long lasting and inexpenseive and can be found on ebay. Andy Tauer Incense Extreme is intense and long lasting. Comme de Garcon Avigon is lovely.
Good Luck!
Shaal Nur is an all-around-the-year favourite, so it gets a vote from me as well. I left the fragrancewise underdeveloped country of Sweden last week for a trip to the UK. Betwixt everything else I made it to Liberty’s twice and to SpaceNK in Bristol and spent a loooong time in Heathrow taxfree stores on my way home. Smelled lots of exciting things for the first time, and ended up having a hard time choosing between John Varvatos Artisan and Voyage d’Hermès. I suggest you try both :). In the end the wonderful clash of citrus and cardamon in Voyage grabbed my heart. Longevity isn’t too great, but I love it anyways :).
Serge Lutens Gris Clair might be worth a try. Lavender, amber and incense are all accounted for here, along with smoky woods.
Hope you find the perfect thing for your wonderful trip!
Hi everyone, and thank you for all your suggestions! I have now realised that I will most likely end up with a whole bunch of new scents
I like the fact that I now have some niche fragrances to try, but also some nice suggestions amongst the more mainstream, easily accessible ones. I have already made one purchase, which is Belle en Rykiel that Haunani recommended, and that I found on SALE! 
It has a lot of Obsession-like amber, some lavender and a bit of coolness, as in cucumber or melon peels (that is a type of melon I can actually agree with), and just the slightest bit of skankiness, that reminds me of the smell of my cats fur in the sun on a good day! 
Very pleasant, not entirely summery (but who cares, I’m trying moooore) and a potential future favourite.
Nike,
I am very late to this post, but maybe you will come back…
Just wanted to suggest that you try out the perfumes made by Vero Kern, someone Andy Tauer I believe has described as a mentor.
She has created 3 amazing perfumes — very rich, very heavy. but sometime this summer, she is releasing EDP versions of her scents, something she has been developing for a long time. Nathan Branch gave them a great review, and so I am eagerly anticipating their arrival….
http://www.nathanbranch.com/2010/01/vero-profumo-new-edp-versions.html
While I love the current Vero Kern perfume concentrations, they are much heavier than what you are looking for… but I think that the EDPs might be just right for you.
Apart from that, I was thinking “Chergui” while I was reading your wishlist, as were several other posters.
Let us know how you make out in your search!