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The Monday Mail ~ help Anne find a new perfume

Posted by Robin on 3 May 2010 56 Comments

Letter Box, Luxembourg

Today's subject is Anne, who says perfume is the one thing she can "be a little high maintenance about". She'd like to find a versatile, season-less fragrance — some sillage is ok, but nothing too overpowering — that doesn't cost a fortune. She doesn't have great access to perfume stores, but she likes to shop online. Here is what we know about Anne:

She's single and in her late 20s.

She's a student, and a little on the artistic side ("I guess you could call me a hippie"). She likes bright colors and open windows, and spending time outdoors.

She writes poetry and plays the keyboards (badly).

She's a huge Fleetwood Mac fan, and wonders if she was born in the wrong generation.

She is "a little fiery" and would like a fragrance that reflects that.

Anne likes fragrances that are warm and cozy but have some brightness to them, and she wouldn't mind something a bit tropical. Notes she likes include amber, vanilla, musk, sandalwood, jasmine, tuberose, frangipani, freesia, cherry blossoms, pomegranate, cherry, currant. Sometimes she likes orchid, berries and citrus. She prefers feminine scents to masculine, and natural or organic ingredients are a plus.

Perfumes Anne likes include Kenzo Amour and Bath & Body Works Japanese Cherry Blossom, but she'd like her new scent to be "a little less bland". She also likes several scents by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab, including Delight (mostly Jasmine & Frangipani), Hymn to Proserpine (Amber and fruit), and Dragon's Heart (Dragon's blood with musk and Currant). Sometimes she wears Victoria's Secret Very Sexy Now, and sometimes she wears jasmine essential oil.

Anne doesn't like vetiver, leather, patchouli, cedar, violet or rose, and she finds ozone or aquatic notes- headache inducing.

Here are some of the perfumes Anne has tried:

Dior Hypnotic Poison: nice but perhaps too mature. Regular Poison is definitely too mature.

Armani Idole: too much pear.

Queen Latifah Queen: a bit too sweet.

Aquolina Pink Sugar: she used to love it, now it's also too sweet.

The Body Shop's White Musk: she used to wear it, now she thinks she has outgrown it.

Kenzo Flower: "just plain didn't like it."

Hanae Mori Butterfly: too girly.

Victor & Rolf Flowerbomb: nicely done but too much patchouli.

Escada line: too fruity.

Chanel line: headache-inducing.

LaVanila line: she likes that they are natural, but finds the vanilla note overbearing.

Bulgari Jasmin Noir: dry down too masculine.

L'Occitane Ambre: nice but too much cedar.

What say you?

Note: image is Letter Box, Luxembourg by sludgegulper at flickr; some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: monday mail

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56 Comments

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  1. Ari says:
    3 May 2010 at 9:40 am

    Hypnotic Poison was going to be my first suggestion! How about Kenzo Amour Le Parfum? It’s a little more exciting than the original, and smells fantastic.

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    • ceelouise says:
      4 May 2010 at 7:07 am

      When I saw “a little fiery” I thought of Hypnotic Poison immediately. Don’t know why, it was a reflex, intuitive.

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      • _Sweet_Dreams says:
        5 May 2010 at 10:27 am

        I really do like hypnotic poison…

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  2. smartylicious says:
    3 May 2010 at 9:48 am

    Ormonde Jayne Frangipani is lovely and not overwhelming.

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    • elise says:
      3 May 2010 at 9:58 am

      I was also going to recommend the OJ line…the discovery kit is not pricey and then you can try them all!

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      • ami says:
        3 May 2010 at 10:56 am

        third on OJ, especially Frangipani
        and for nice berries (and more) try The Different Company Sublime Balkiss

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    • Chanterais says:
      3 May 2010 at 11:49 am

      I adore–adore!–Ormonde Jayne’s Frangipani, and think it’ definitely sounds like Anne’s sort of thing. But I do worry about the cedar in Frangipani: I know that some people don’t get much of that woodiness, but I definitely do. It’s glorious, cool and deeply elegant (not even a hint of pencil shavings or moth blocks), but if she’s cedar-shy, it might not be the Ormonde Jayne scent that best suits her.

      I’d emphatically recommend ordering the OJ sample set (truly worth every penny), and paying special attention to the exquisite Sampaquita–a delightful, laughing jasmine-freesia-lychee scent–and the gorgeous, golden Tolu, all resiny amber warmth. Both totally unforgettable.

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  3. Gilty says:
    3 May 2010 at 9:49 am

    How about Korres Rosewood Blackcurrent Cyclamen? It’s something like $40 for 100 mls and has that yummy blackcurrent note of Diptique’s L’Ombre dans l’Eau but at a much more affordable price…

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  4. Dixie says:
    3 May 2010 at 9:59 am

    Youth Dew Amber Nude
    Frederick Malle Fleur de Cassie-can buy 10ml vials on ebay. This one I think you will find interesting.
    Shalimar or Eau de Shalimar which has more citrus.

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    • elise says:
      3 May 2010 at 10:03 am

      Shalimar Light, also!

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      • Ari says:
        3 May 2010 at 11:08 am

        If she can find it! It’s getting more expensive every day… :(

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  5. elise says:
    3 May 2010 at 10:03 am

    I’ve got it! Keiko Mercheri’s Genie De Bois! Some list it as a violet scent, but all i get isthe WONDERFUL floral spiciness! You want spicy? This is the one!
    Other reccommendations: SL Datura Noir, the Diff. Co. Jasmine Nuit, L Lolita Lempika for vanilla spice (or L’artisan Safran Troublant too!)…Gaultier Classique too (bit I find anything with anise kinda spicy)…
    Penhaligon’s AMARANTHINE!!! too!
    and although it doesn’t work on me…for the tropical feel, Les Nez Manoumalia…worth a sniff!
    I love spicy florals!

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    • Katich says:
      3 May 2010 at 10:09 am

      I second the L de Lolita Lempicka and the L’Artisan! Good suggestions!

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  6. Katich says:
    3 May 2010 at 10:08 am

    As a fellow broke student, my first idea was Halle by Halle Berry (yay drugstores!), which is warm and sweet in the beginning with a strong fig note but has a really nice, slightly spicy sandalwood/vanilla drydown. I get a surprising number of compliments wearing it.

    Lolita Lempicka and L de Lolita Lempicka are both great for sweet with a bit of spice and easy to find, and I really like Tea for Two for a chai-type spice. I wear Bulgari Omnia all the time for its spiciness too.

    Good luck!

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    • Dixie says:
      3 May 2010 at 10:18 am

      I love Omnia!

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    • Ari says:
      3 May 2010 at 11:05 am

      Love both Lolita Lempickas! Can’t wait for Si de Lolita! That one’s supposed to be quite spicy :)

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  7. cjordan says:
    3 May 2010 at 10:24 am

    You might want to try some of the Pacifica and Tokyo Milk perfumes. They are within your budget, can be found online and I find some of them to be much more interesting than regular drugstore frags.

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    • Katich says:
      3 May 2010 at 10:54 am

      I second this as well. I can generally find Pacifica fragrances at niche salons around where I live, and I think Anthropologie stores carry a selection of the TokyoMilk perfumes, but they’re on Beauty Habit as well. Good luck!

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    • L says:
      4 May 2010 at 2:51 am

      Hi Anne,

      I immediately thought of Pacifica. They use natural oils and are committed to sustainability. They offer many different scents in many different incarnations at great prices ($22 for a 1 oz spray). You can buy online from the Pacifica site and Sephora’s site also carries part of the line. Many choices. A few that may interest you:

      Tahitian Gardenia – gardenia, jasmine, sweet orange, tea leaves
      Waikiki Pikake – pikake (jasmine) and sandalwood
      Tunisian Jasmine – jasmine and almond
      Hawaiian Ruby Guava – guava, pomelo (citrus), coconut
      Sandalwood – tangerine, sweet orange, mandarin, sandalwood
      Spanish Amber – bergamot, elemi, geranium, sandalwood, amber

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      • _Sweet_Dreams says:
        5 May 2010 at 10:28 am

        -wow, these sound great, esp. the gardenia.
        -anne

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  8. klytaemnestra says:
    3 May 2010 at 10:27 am

    Lolita Lempicka. It’s a warm, cozy, sweet, a little spicy. For me it’s a ‘comfort scent’. However, some people — not me — smell a very strong licorice with LL. You can find it online at discount retailers for about $30 and the bottle is to die for.

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    • Ari says:
      3 May 2010 at 11:05 am

      Preach the good LL gospel!

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  9. bergere says:
    3 May 2010 at 10:27 am

    Hi, Anne!
    I found Barbara Bui a nice, non-boring comfort scent , ambery, vanillic, with sexy jasmine and heliotrope, and it has the advantage of being inexpensive (supposedly there is some cedar, but I love cedar and I can’t detect any); Apothia Pearl has some similarties, a tart, citrus layer over a floral, vanillic comfort scent. Cinema by YSL is also a mildly sweet, sexy floral with a tart opening, florals are jasmine, cyclamen, peony (no rose or violet listed). Cuir de Lancome is a great, subtle leather-gloves floral, with jasmine and ylang-ylang. Armani Mania is another nice floral, with peony and muguet. On the sweeter side, maybe give Ambre gris by Balmain a try, and Blue Agava and Cacao (Jo Malone), and maybe one of the Kenzo Fleur de (fill in the blank here): Fleur de soie, Fleur de magnolia, and I forget the other one. Some more tropical-feeling ones are Manoumalia (Les Nez) and Eau turquoise by PdNicolai (and, of course, several of the Ormonde Jayne line!). Despite the name, give Lierre rose a try (Parfums 06130); it’s more of a jasmine-tuberose floral, with a green edge. A more expensive one to try is EL Amber Ylang-Ylang. I’m a patch-o-phobe, and none of these have any noticeable patch.
    Whoops, that’s a lot. Have fun!

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  10. Suzanne says:
    3 May 2010 at 10:45 am

    Anne, introduce yourself to the Bond no. 9 collection. Try calling their 1-800 number, to order the sample vials, you can probably get 6 for $15 USD, or try asking if they can mail you 3 samples for free. Or stop by one of their counters @ Saks, the SA’s would love to introduce you, to their fragrance collection and give variety of samples. Try samples of “Success is a Job in New York”, which is one of my favorite.

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  11. meadowbliss says:
    3 May 2010 at 10:55 am

    Andy Tauer sample set is inexpensive and with free shipping it’s worth every penny. I didn’t think I liked rose until I tried AT Une rose Chypree.
    Musc Ravageur, a very sensual musk.
    I ditto the OJ which has many of the notes you like. I like sample sets as they give you a good variety without breaking the bank.
    Sonoma Scent Studio.
    Ambre Gris mentioned above by Balmain would also be worth trying.
    Since you’re artistic I am sure you’ll enjoy playing with new scent palettes, experimenting.
    Love Fleetwood Mac, too.
    Enjoy!

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    • 734elizabeths says:
      3 May 2010 at 2:29 pm

      I second the AT sample set! Several of his perfumes might be an excellent fit. My other suggestion is Kenzo Jungle (L’Elephant, which is they only one still in production) – it’s about halfway between Hypnotic Poison and Kenzo Amour, I find. More interesting than Amour but less demanding than Hypnotic Poison.

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  12. miss kitty v. says:
    3 May 2010 at 10:59 am

    I am only suggesting this because of the Stevie Nicks connection. :)
    http://www.luckyscent.com/shop/section/1/item/24400/brand/Michele_Bergman/Black_Gardenia.html

    And if you like tuberose, gardenia is in the same family.

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    • _Sweet_Dreams says:
      5 May 2010 at 10:29 am

      I LOOOOOOOOOOOOVE black gardenia. I ordered a sample of it, but it doesn’t stay very long considering that it is $120/bottle…

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  13. romaayden says:
    3 May 2010 at 11:03 am

    I think anything from the OJ line would be great. Off topic but worthwhile “THE ULTIMATE SALE AT TAKASHIMAYA NEW YORK BEGINS TODAY MAY 3 2010. EVERYTHING 40% OFF” Including all perfumes. They have an extensive line of Histoiries de parfums no online orders though must go to the store itself. But a great savings!

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    • Ari says:
      3 May 2010 at 11:06 am

      GAAAH! WHEN DOES IT END?!?! I’ll be in NYC around May 20, will it still be going on???

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      • boojum says:
        3 May 2010 at 12:35 pm

        I believe the store is closing, so….while supplies last?

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        • Ari says:
          3 May 2010 at 1:06 pm

          Thanks boo! The website says they’re closing in June, so I think I’ll make it in time! I’m sure all the good stuff will be gone by then though :(

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      • romaayden says:
        3 May 2010 at 2:46 pm

        yes the store is closing in June

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  14. Helle says:
    3 May 2010 at 11:33 am

    Warm, cozy, bright and feminine. Why not try the brand new Like This by Etat Libre d’Orange? You’ll find Angela’s beautiful review of it if you browse the NST site. It’s a glowing and feminine fragrance, quiet but everything but bland. Good luck!

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    • Chanterais says:
      3 May 2010 at 11:53 am

      I am lemming Like This like crazy. It is taking all of my negligible self-control not to immediately order twenty bottles.

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      • Haunani says:
        3 May 2010 at 10:26 pm

        Me too!!!

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    • Heiress says:
      3 May 2010 at 3:04 pm

      I was also just about to suggest Like This! Might be perfect for you, Anne. Terribly beautiful and cozy, slightly sexy – the pumpkin note is unbelievable. Highly recommended!

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  15. Thalia says:
    3 May 2010 at 12:01 pm

    How about Yves Rocher Rose Absolue (warm, bright and happy, pleasantly spicy) or Voile d’Ambre (warm, very sweet, a little vanilla in the drydown)? They’re both dirt cheap.

    Estee Lauder Spellbound is another warm, spicy frag — it smells wonderful on me.

    The Pacificas are really nice — if you have a Whole Foods near you, they carry the line and always have testers out. I think Sephora has them, too.

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  16. Joe says:
    3 May 2010 at 12:12 pm

    I’m going to recommend sampling Indochine by Infusion Organique.

    Samples available at b-glowing, and it’s a very inexpensive fragrance.

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  17. Aparatchick says:
    3 May 2010 at 12:59 pm

    Consider sampling Fragonard’s Miranda. Warm, tropical, feminine, sweet but not cloying and not a sillage monster. It’s available online for less than $50 for the 100 ml EDT. Notes are coconut, jasmine, opoponax, ylang-ylang, rose, vanilla, amber and sandalwood.

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  18. Dawnkana says:
    3 May 2010 at 1:14 pm

    Ajne Fleur Blanche. Hands down, my favorite gardenia / natural perfume.

    Here’s the info from the Ajne website:

    Fleur Blanche ~ White Flower
    Tropical Floral

    Fleur Blanche (White Flower) is our exclusive scent rendition of sultry, white gardenia. Because of the volatility of its delicate scent, the Gardenia is nearly impossible to capture naturally via distillation.So, Jane combined rich, powerful florals, woods and fruits to replicate its intoxicating scent. “We spent month’s smelling gardenia as we worked on replicating the scent”, says Jane. “Tough work, but someone has to do it,” she smiles! Of course, Jane is never content to simply mimic nature. So, Fleur Blanche contains one of her signature twists. The result is simply breathtaking.

    The ingredients in Fleur Blanche are reputed to help balance the heart and crown chakras.

    Ingredient List
    Our proprietary combination of 100% non-synthetic, ultra-pure and precious plant-distilled oils and absolutes blended in your choice of denatured spirits or organic jojoba oil.

    Another suggestion for your inner bohemian, Dior’s Diorella.

    And would like to second OJ Frangipani and Michelle Bergman Black Gardenia.

    Good luck with your search.

    ~Dawn

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  19. Lina_des says:
    3 May 2010 at 1:48 pm

    Well, my first thought was Angel Innocent by Thierry Mugler – it is cozy, feminine and warm. Bouquet of honeysuckles, peaches and pears on the table, and vanilla tee. It’s kind of perfume I like to wear at home when I feel like stay in the bed all day.
    Try the new Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Flora Nymphea, it’s honey and white flowers, happy-but-not-heavy and it’s older sister Chanel Beige.

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  20. sweetlife (ahtx) says:
    3 May 2010 at 1:55 pm

    For cozy and tropical and just plain gorgeous definitely give Annick Goutal Songes a try. While you’re at the counter, might as well try Grand Amour, Passion, and Gardenia (not really a gardenia, more tuberose-ish). Most Goutals are available at the discounters.

    You might experiment with the Crazylibellule Poppies line, too. Twist up solids for $16 a piece. They have a lovely jasmine/lily of the valley, Aux Anges, from the Les Divines Alcoves set. You might also enjoy the spicy one, Chere Louise, from the new Les Garconnes line. Sometimes they’re available to try at Anthropologie. You can order them online at beautyhabit.com

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  21. Lina_des says:
    3 May 2010 at 3:06 pm

    Actually, i forgot the most perfect one – Guerlain Terracotta Voil d’Ete. It is limited edition of 1999, but you can find it in internet for really reasonable money. It is tropical, but not heavy, nice soft flowers and dry vanilla. Like an evening on the tropical beach. Very cozy and feminine

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    • Thalia says:
      3 May 2010 at 3:22 pm

      I haven’t smelled (smelt?) any of them, but the Filles des Iles line sounds like they’re all sunny tropical florals with a lot of your favorite notes in them, and B-Glowing is blowing them out right now for $7 to $9 for 1.7 oz.

      Log in to Reply
      • Lina_des says:
        3 May 2010 at 3:36 pm

        Gosh, I love US prices!

        Log in to Reply
      • boojum says:
        3 May 2010 at 4:43 pm

        I thought the sparkling one was sort of nice….actually considered picking one up ($9 is hard to beat!), but decided to put those dollars toward something I wanted more. I’m afraid I sampled it close to 2 years ago, though, so can’t say any more than just… it smelled good, in an undemanding sort of way.

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    • Haunani says:
      3 May 2010 at 10:27 pm

      I think this is a great idea! It is different, easy to wear, versatile, AND lovely. I found my BIG bottle of it online for a great price, too!

      Log in to Reply
  22. mountainear says:
    3 May 2010 at 3:50 pm

    For comfort perfumes that are spicy, I would second Bvlgari Omnia and also recommend S-Perfumes 100% Love. It is a really interesting one with red fruits, rose, musk, and chocolate. Also, you might like Guerlain AA Figue Iris which is spicy, but light and may have a bit more of a tropical feel than my other recommendations.

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  23. alotofscents says:
    3 May 2010 at 5:08 pm

    You might try Euphoria by Calvin Klein, it’s black orchid with some mahogany, cream, musk. It has a bit of an edge, but isn’t a heavy oriental. It’s very well done.
    For even more Boho, try Darn Spencer Horowitz line. She uses natural oils, and samples are reasonable.
    Dior Pure Poison is nothing like the other poisons, Citrus, jasmine, gardenia, amber, musk..very pretty with out being cloying.
    I like/dislike the same things as you.
    I am also dying to try the Ormonde Jayne’s.
    Much Luck!

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    • _Sweet_Dreams says:
      10 May 2010 at 11:12 pm

      I have tried ck’s euphoria and it was very nice, although I wasn’t sure if it was entire-bottle worthy…. on the fence with that one. I like that there is something darkly fruity about it

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  24. Isa says:
    3 May 2010 at 5:44 pm

    I add another sugestion to the list: Aqua di Parma Iris Nobile. I get lots of jasmine and tuberose (very natural, not cloying) and I find it “tropical”, don’t ask me why.
    It’s very femenine, soft but sexy.

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    • Isa says:
      3 May 2010 at 5:50 pm

      Sorry! Suggestion, not “sugestion”.

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  25. alotofscents says:
    3 May 2010 at 8:47 pm

    Oh, I know! Delices De Cartier, It has cherry in it, but is not as fruity as most releases. And for a yummy black currant, try Versace by Versace.

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  26. _Sweet_Dreams says:
    5 May 2010 at 10:32 am

    thanks, guys, these suggestions sound fabulous, they will keep my wallet busy in the months to come! Really curious about the OJ frangipani and the Pacifica Gardenia! I am sorry I missed this post on monday- this is my finals week!

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  27. TallulahRose says:
    8 May 2010 at 1:49 am

    Well, the fragrance that finally came to me was Laura Biagiotti’s Roma. If possible, an early bottle (from some dusty shelf at a discounter’s) when it was still made in either Italy or Germany. The earlier version had a lovely herbally and peppery quality that I found addictive. Light, not obtrusive, unusual, sweet but not too sweet, but with what I characterize as a “burr” note — a note that resonates and hums with pepper and some frankincense and myrrh.

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