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The Monday Mail ~ help Michaella find a new perfume

Posted by Robin on 19 April 2010 42 Comments

Letter Box, Luxembourg

Today we're helping Michaella. She's a budding perfumista, and she's looking for a sensual signature scent that will translate well from day to night. She would like to find something she can try locally, and she does have good access to department stores and Sephora. Her budget: $100 or less.

Michaella...

...is a nineteen year old college freshman majoring in English.

She says she is outgoing, friendly and creative.

She's a city person but prefers Florence to New York.

She loves writing, dancing and spending time with friends.

Her style: girly, with a touch of boho.

Michaella has three fragrances in rotation at the moment: Stella McCartney Stella, Tocca Brigitte and L'Artisan Voleur de Roses. Brigitte is her favorite, but she does like bold fragrances. She likes notes of vanilla, rose (but she'd like to branch out from rose), honey, spice, orange blossom, musk, citrus and marine notes.

She does not like powdery, overly fruity or overly foody fragrances.

Some fragrances Michaella has tried:

Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue: too clean.

Chanel Chance: just weird.

Tocca Stella: turned bitter.

DKNY Red Delicious: didn't last.

Pucci Aqua 330: also didn't last, but she liked the saltiness.

What say you?

Note: image is Letter Box, Luxembourg by sludgegulper at flickr; some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: monday mail

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42 Comments

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  1. kaos.geo says:
    19 April 2010 at 8:42 am

    Hello Michaella.

    I strongly suggest that you try the Blu Mediterraneo “Arancia di Capri” cologne from Aqua di Parma.

    If you look around the web you’ll read that they are not very lasting, but that totally depends on skin chemistry IMHO. On me it lasts quite a bit.

    Give it a try! :-)
    (the others in the Blu mediterraneo line are very good too)

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  2. lilydale aka Natalie says:
    19 April 2010 at 8:49 am

    I know you’re trying to branch out from rose, but have you tried Tocade? It’s a really pretty, blowsy rose + vanilla, and cheap as hell (I got a bottle for $10 at Marshall’s). Fendi Theorema (discontinued, but still easily attainable) might be worth a shot too — orange, spice, honey, yum… Good luck, and have fun!

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    • Delfina says:
      19 April 2010 at 9:12 am

      Another vote for Tocade!

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    • cjordan says:
      19 April 2010 at 1:47 pm

      Fendi Theorema easily attainable? From where? I want some more but all the online retailers are out.

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      • lilydale aka Natalie says:
        19 April 2010 at 11:26 pm

        Hmm, admittedly I haven’t looked in a few months! There seem to still be minis galore, however, and I see a few bigger bottles on eBay. Yikes, now I’m thinking I should get some more myself…

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    • bergere says:
      20 April 2010 at 10:16 am

      Theorema is getting harder and harder to find! Some reviewers note similarities between Theorema and Estee Lauder’s Intuition, so Intuition might be worth a try, since it’s still available and affordable.

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  3. mals86 says:
    19 April 2010 at 8:56 am

    Rose and vanilla? Bold? Girly/boho? I’m thinking Tocade – which may not be available locally, but is so cheap online that it’s worth trying. Alternately, Bond #9 Broadway Nite is built along the same lines but is even bolder. It might be out of Michaella’s price range; I think it runs $110 for 50 ml.

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  4. miss kitty v. says:
    19 April 2010 at 9:03 am

    With liking vanilla, spice, citrus and musk, L by Lolita Lepicka might be a good one to try. Also, like others have already mentioned, if you’re willing to try a couple more roses I would suggest Tocade, L’Artisan Saffran Troublant, or Bond No 9 Westside. (The last one is over $100, but I’d be happy to share mine. :)

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    • Robin R. says:
      19 April 2010 at 11:35 am

      mkv., I think you’re on the right track.

      Michaela, do try these! I see you as a young woman who has a nose for contemporary scents at the moment, and these have that youthful, modern feel to them while being a little more edgy and sophisticated than your average mainstream scent. Perfect stepping stones along the perfumista path. Have fun. ;-)

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      • Robin R. says:
        19 April 2010 at 11:36 am

        P.S. My number one choice would be L by Lolita Lempicka.

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        • elise says:
          19 April 2010 at 1:14 pm

          3rd Lolita L…and Safran…I think you’ll like these

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  5. Karin says:
    19 April 2010 at 9:38 am

    Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDT – orange blossom, vanilla, and musk!

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    • Chanterais says:
      19 April 2010 at 11:26 am

      Definitely! Excellent call.

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    • Haunani says:
      19 April 2010 at 1:41 pm

      I second this suggestion!

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      • maggiecat says:
        19 April 2010 at 7:40 pm

        I third it – it’s a wonderful scent. She might also try Hermes 24 Faubourg, if she’d like more of a sensuel amber note with the orange flower.

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  6. bombshellbetsy says:
    19 April 2010 at 10:01 am

    Maybe Shalimar? It vanilla without being foody. I bet she’d love the drydown. And who can resist the backstory? (Plus you can get the EDT for well under 100.)

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    • Dixie says:
      19 April 2010 at 10:06 am

      I second the Shalimar. Plus the Eau de Shalimar (the white bottle) has citrus notes.

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      • klytaemnestra says:
        19 April 2010 at 10:53 am

        I am going to have to third the Shalimar.

        Don’t be intimidated by its age or any reviews that refer to it as being ‘old lady’. I wear it both day & night preferring to layer the extract with the EdT for evenings and if you want something signature, you really can’t go wrong with this. It’s beautiful, classic, sensual and while it’s not for everyone it is something any budding perfumista should at least sniff.

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  7. Dixie says:
    19 April 2010 at 10:13 am

    Ginistet Boytritis for the Honey (I’m sure I spelled it wrong).
    Vanilla Noir du Mexique for the vanilla
    Paestum Rose-just awesome!
    Le Labo Rose 31-you just need to try it if you haven’t
    Czech & Speake Cuba for spice
    Fracas for bold
    Musk Ravageur by Frederick Malle-musk and Spice
    Stephanie de St. Aignan Embruns d’Ambre-amber with marine notes!

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    • PekeFan says:
      19 April 2010 at 4:02 pm

      I agree with Safran Troublant and Paestum Rose (rosy and fresh!) but also add Hermes’ “Un Jardin Apres La Mousson”, which is fresh and ozonic. How about A Different Company’s “Oriental Lounge”, which is spicy without heaviness?

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      • PekeFan says:
        19 April 2010 at 4:04 pm

        Hermes’ UJALM is very gingery on me with some melon and a distinct rainwater-type note.

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  8. bombshellbetsy says:
    19 April 2010 at 10:20 am

    I’m actually thinking Dior Dune, too. The marine notes. A little dark and mysterious. Warm.

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    • lsnuing says:
      22 April 2010 at 8:30 am

      Agree re Dune! This is one of my all-time favourites

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  9. Chanterais says:
    19 April 2010 at 11:24 am

    I echo the excellent suggestions above, especially the Narcisco Rodriguez and Tocade–both reasonably priced and very wonderful. I have two other ideas of things you’d love. The first is Dior’s Hypnotic Poison, unquestionably different from the original scorched-earth effect of the original Poison, but with its same strange, enchanting hold. Robin here at NST describes it beautifully: “Hypnotic Poison is a creamy-sweet concoction of vanilla sugar, jasmine, and musk, with a velvety finish and a dash of spice. The nutty-woody undertones temper the sweetness perfectly: it is edible without feeling at all cloying or overdone.” It’s available at Sephora and good department stores, and is definitely worth a sniff.

    The other suggestion I’d make is inspired by your note that you’re more inclined towards Florence than New York: Profumi di Firenze’s fantastic Zagara. It’s not widely known, which may or may not appeal to you, but truly deserves to be. Zagara contains a lovely mix of orange blossom and citrus peel, as fresh and bright and lovely as you could wish. Robin notes that it “starts rather sharp and very heavy on the bergamot, but calms to a lovely orange blossom with citrus notes and just the right amount of sweetness. It is very sparkling, cheerful and summery, and has good lasting power.” I have a bottle of it that I wear on perfect blue-sky days, and I think you too might find it beautifully unique. Get yourself a sample and see what you think!

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    • crowflower says:
      20 April 2010 at 12:12 am

      Hypnotic Poison smells like extremely expensive root beer to me.
      I like it!

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  10. bergere says:
    19 April 2010 at 12:52 pm

    Lilydale had a great idea with the Tocade. The Brigitte that you like reminds me a lot of Apothia Pearl, so I wonder if that would interest you. Amoureuse by DelRae is a bit pricey, but it has a beautiful honey note, tangerine, jasmine and tuberose; maybe a decant? Feminite du bois by Shiseido is also a spectacular perfume, if a bit high. I wonder if Asja by Fendi would suit you, it’s spicy, with carnation, rose, jasmine, and some honey. Do try Mauboussin by Mauboussin, and Odalisque by Parfums de Nicolai; the latter is a beautiful, classic floral with an updated vibe. Good luck!

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  11. elise says:
    19 April 2010 at 1:15 pm

    The Different Company has their Rose Poivre…but I’d also suggest their Jasmine Nuit…and the whole ‘discovery’ set is affordable so you can try them all!

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  12. Lina_des says:
    19 April 2010 at 4:15 pm

    Michaella, do give a try a new Prada Infusion De Tubereuse. It is sensual, but light, floral and citrus’y, quite good for both outdoors and indoors

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  13. k-scott says:
    19 April 2010 at 6:40 pm

    I was also going to recommend Narcisco Rodriguez For Her (but I’m partial to the EDP). They also have a Narcisco Rodriguez Musc for Her, an oil that comes in a black bottle. It smells totally different from the Eau, it’s musky and sexy and great layered with the Eau and other scents, or on its own. Ormonde Jayne Ta’if, a gorgeous fresh but spicy rose scent, also sounds right up your alley. A few more suggestions: Bond No. 9 Chinatown, Caron Parfum Sacre, Hermes Kelly Caleche, Ralph Lauren Notorious, Annick Goutal Neroli, Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia, and Jo Malone Orange Blossom Cologne. Happy sniffing!

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  14. flittersniffer says:
    19 April 2010 at 7:15 pm

    For orange & spice would recommend the new Penhaligon Orange Blossom

    Rose, vanilla & saffron – agree that Safran Troublant can’t be beat!

    Rose, vanilla & patchouli – Agent Provocateur Strip

    As well as NR for Her, how about Lady Vengeance from Juliet
    Has a Gun?

    And possibly Bryant Park from Bond No 9.

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  15. Philippe says:
    19 April 2010 at 8:39 pm

    Hi!
    I would say Un Bois Vanille, by Serge Lutens. Or, if you were after a “bold rose”, I would’ve said Une Rose, by Frédéric Malle. And finally,

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    • Philippe says:
      19 April 2010 at 8:40 pm

      And finally, Poivre Piquant, by l’Artisan. It combines spices and honey.

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  16. olenska says:
    19 April 2010 at 9:37 pm

    Vicolo Fiori by Etro. A million flowers, sunny and wild, none of the heavy or cloying, all combined in a fresh and gentle daytime perfume that can be intensified with an extra layer in the evening. Perfect for La Boheme, but presentable for elegant events as well.

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  17. Silver Birch Studio says:
    19 April 2010 at 10:47 pm

    I agree with Shalimar, and I think Andy Tauer’s L’Air du desert Marocain, with it’s spice notes or his Le Maroc pour elle, with that rich, lush rose that outdoes all other rose scents, IMHO…Most of all, have fun with these scents, try some samples before you commit to a whole bottle!

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  18. L says:
    20 April 2010 at 2:35 am

    Hi Michaella,

    I wonder if Laura Mercier Neroli might be a good fit for you. I haven’t tried it (though I’m itching to), but the LM Web site lists top notes of orange bigarade, lemon peel and freesia; middle notes of neroli, fresh jasmine and peony; a base of musk, amber, sandalwood and vanilla.

    It comes in a 1.7 oz for $75 and is available at most department stores.

    Happy sniffing!

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  19. TakaBeata says:
    20 April 2010 at 2:38 am

    Hi Michaella, please try:
    1/Morgan toi (red classic version),
    2/ Different Company osmanthus,
    3/Lancome Tresor
    4/Jil Sander JiL,new
    5/Delices de Cartier EDT
    6/Marine Groove ESCADA
    Perhaps in these scents you will find your own favourite. I tried to choose to description. Have a nice play whit Yours nose :)

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  20. merchella says:
    20 April 2010 at 6:56 am

    I would recommend Calamity J or Miss Charming by Juliette has a gun and Brûlure de Rose by Parfumerie Generale.

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  21. Blimunda says:
    20 April 2010 at 9:13 am

    Well – I am a big rose fan myself, and can recommend some rose scents that are unusual and divine:

    Ta’if by Ormonde Jayne. It has notes of pink pepper, rose, saffron and is light and sheer and utterly divine. Men seem to love this one, I’ve noticed! It’s only available from the London store, and might be a little out of your price range – but I think their travel sets are a little less expensive.

    Andy Tauer’s Le Maroc Pour Elle is a very unusual floral that works beautifully for day and night. This is how it is described on the website “A sunny oriental fragrance for the pleasure of passion. Le Maroc pour elle is the perfume of the Moroccan rose at dawn, combined with the seductive evening scent of jasmine. The flower fragrances melt into the enchantment of cedar wood from the High Atlas, forming a truly sensual oriental perfume. The head note is composed of fresh citrus and hints of lavender. Cedar wood forms the perfume body, gently combined with the balm of oriental woods.”

    Some unusual, more modern scents would be from Bond No.9. You might like….. Chinatown (a great floriental) and Andy Warhol Silver Factory (just genius!)

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    • Blimunda says:
      20 April 2010 at 9:14 am

      ah – also, Tauer does an ‘Incense Rose’ scent which is sublime too…….

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  22. TallulahRose says:
    20 April 2010 at 1:57 pm

    Well, the first fragrance that occurred to me was the new Etat Libre d’Orange, Tilda Swinton Like This. Notes include yellow mandarin, ginger, pumpkin, immortelle, neroli, rose, vetiver, heliotrope and musk.

    Another one that you may like is another Etat Libre d’Orange, Divin’ Enfant. The fragrance features leather, orange blossom, amber, musk, tobacco and rose. It also supposedly has marshmallow in it, but I don’t get that on my skin… on me, it is an incredibly beautiful orange fragrance — best I’ve ever tried. I had to get a bottle right away!

    As for rose fragrances, I LOVE Voleur des Roses, and so think you may also like another of my two favourite rose fragrances, which I have in heavy rotation — Tauer’s Maroc Pour Elle, and Paestum Rose.

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  23. cassieflower says:
    21 April 2010 at 8:12 am

    Hi Michaella
    Try out L de Lolita Lempicka, some of the notes are bitter orange, cinnamon, immortal flower, vanilla and a light marine note. It’s a fragrance that can be worn day or night, it’s all in the application, really. On my skin it’s the orange and cinnamon that come through.

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  24. cassieflower says:
    21 April 2010 at 8:26 am

    Just thought of another one, Paul Smith Rose, a very modern perfume for a young lady – or even for a not-so-young lady. A light rose with smooth woods and musk which is nicely balanced, and with good lasting power. Not expensive either.

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