Paolo, who is Italian and lives in London, wants our help to find one (or more!) informal fragrances to match his personality. He's after something that would be suitable for informal work environments or laid back outings with friends, and he'd also like moderate sillage and good longevity. Anything available in a travel size is a plus. He can pay about $100 per fragrance.
Here is what we know about Paolo:
He's in his mid-30s and works for a large international humanitarian agency.
He travels frequently, mostly in developing countries, and he says he is a "a wanderlust type" — he also loves reading travelogues and watching travel movies.
He has a weakness for nice clothes (shirts and shoes especially).
He can be a bit of a loner. He's also a good jazz guitar player, loves fine food and is fascinated by the Middle East.
He's a big fan of Joni Mitchell, Chet Baker, Paolo Conte and Ella Fitzerald.
Paolo likes amber-based scents, vetiver as a note but not the main note, neroli and bergamot (he is tempted by Le Labo Bergamot, Creed Neroli Sauvage and Tom Ford Neroli Portofino, but dislikes Annick Goutal Neroli and Le Labo Neroli), and moderate gourmands. He is currently wearing Paloma Picasso Minotaure (sort of his signature scent for the last 10 years), Prada Infusion d'Homme (really likes), L'Erbalario Meharees (stunning scent). Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa is his current travel scent.
He also likes Lancome Hypnose pour Homme, Vera Wang for Men, Penhaligon’s Quercus (in small quantities), Creed Erolfa (after the gym), most of the Carthusia line (especially Mediterraneo), Dior’s Escale a Portofino, L’Eau De Rochas pour Homme (also likes the female counterpart), the original D&G for men.
Paolo doesn't like marine aquatics, deep dark musk (Thierry Mugler A*Men is an exception, Lorenzo Villoresi Musk is a no). He dislikes most of the incense-based Etro perfumes, Six Scents Damir Doma, Chanel Allure Sport and all its flankers, the original Gucci for Men (clove galore), Paul Smith Story (vetiver-in-your-face), most of the Davidoff line.
Perfumes Paolo can't make up his mind about include Acqua di Parma Colonia (the original), Frederic Malle Lys Mediterranee, Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio (a bit too herbal), Hermès Un Jardin Apres la Mousson (fascinating but not sure he'd wear it), Dior Ambre Nuit (a bit cloying), Yves Saint Laurent Jazz and Live Jazz.
What say you?
Note: image is Letter Box, Luxembourg by sludgegulper at flickr; some rights reserved.
Paulo, if you’re fascinated with the Middle East, do introduce yourself to the Montale line, with a direct connection to that part of the world. A little light oudh might be in order: there are many to choose from, but I’d suggest you start with Aoud Cuir d’Arabie. It’s all about gorgeous, expensive-smelling, buttery leather and oudh with a slight peppery dimension that keeps it fresh and. Very wearable, but start off lightly, as it’s concentrated. Notes are leather, spice, tobacco and oudh wood.
You’re sure to get lots of good advice here. Have fun.
I’d recommend New York by Patricia de Nicolai for a fresh, cologne-like start that morphs into something warmer, ambery-woody: a masterpiece.
How about Touaregh by Il Profumo for a floral-oriental that really works for male skin, too. If Ambre Nuit is too cloying, how about Marc Jacobs Ambre Splash or even Laura Mercier’s Ambre Passion, much lighter, on my skin at least.
Plenty more suggestions where these come from, if required! ^_^
My favorite amber-based scents so far are Sonoma Scent Studio Amber Noir, and DS & Durga Smoked Amber.
How about Hermes Jardin Sur le Nil? I like it much better than la Moussan.
2nd NY by PdN.
…and just throwing out Ormonde Jayne Man….def. worth a try!
I approve of your travel scent. It’s always nice to carry a classic Italian fragrance when traveling.
In any case, I’ve been considering all of what you’re looking for and something to suit your wanderlust personality and I think you should give Parfums d’Empire Iskander a sniff. It has a citrus-y opening and a warm amber heart and really makes me think of world travel, particularly in the middle east — aptly so considering Alexander’s conquests.
Being someone fascinated with the Middle East as well, I’m always looking for fragrances that capture part of its mystic and history and think this would suit you well.
It meets your budget at $110 and can be purchased through Aedes.com.
I’m not very good at this game but I have two suggestions for you to try: Montale Soleil de Capri and PG Papyrus de Ciane…..oh maybe Diptyque Philosykos as well, although that doesn’t have a lot of sillage.
Have fun ….I see a huge sample order in your future!
Oh, definitely PdN New York (mentioned above). How about Bois 1920 Vetiver Ambrato (Vetiver & Amber, very nice!). My favorite amber fragrance by far is Amber Russe (Parfum d’Empire)!! It’s quite simply the most beautiful amber, full of both mystery and cozy comfort at the same time.
And if you have not tried Terre d’Hermes, you must because it’s a true classic masculine (well unisex, in my book) masterpiece that could also inspire travel; and while we are talking about Hermes, travel, and JCE’s style, you may as well give the new Hermes a try (Voyage d’Hermes). That’s all I can think of off the top of my head, which is buried in work right now but took a little detour…
I agree that you should try the Montales, but l’air du désert marocain (Andy Tauer) was the first thing I thought about – Dzonkha too (Artisan Parfumeur). Since you’re in London pop into Ormonde Jayne and sample their scents (expensive, but you might then get a decant through all the helpful NST enablers) and please: do go for a scent wardrobe, one scent is a bit boring, no?
buon divertimento e buona fortuna!
Seconding (thirding?) the L’Air — everyone should at least try it, and it really is an exotic voyage in itself. I also thought of Eau pour le Jeune Homme for the neroli angle. Good luck, and have fun!
I agree with you– l’air du desert marocain sounds like a good choice for anyone fascinated by the Middle East. Lonestar Memories is also beautiful, sensual and masculine.
Another vote for L’Air, and perhaps the new Tauer Orange Star? I haven’t sniffed it yet, but your love of the Acqua di Parma scents makes it seem like something you would like. For amber, my current favourite is Parfums D’Empire Ambre Russe. I also like Tom Ford’s Private Blend Amber Absolute, but it is $185 for 50ml. However, TPC has had a special pricing on large decants of both of these and I think they ship overseas.
I would second the PdN New York rec, her scents are wonderful. Also explore the Montale line.
I would also recommend Estee Lauder’s Youth Dew Amber Nude-it has many of the notes you like (woods, amber and vetiver)
and you can get it for a song on the discount websites. It also lasts forever on skin (on me anyhow).
Where the heck do you find Youth Dew Amber Nude? I’ve asked at all the Lauder counters I’ve visited and they don’t carry it and have told me they can’t get it. I also want a bottle of Youth Dew lotion and am having little luck in the dept. stores.
Hi Julia
FragranceNet has it for a song, both 1 oz and 2.5 oz. Let me know if you would like to do a split??
I think I just lucked into some, but I may be up for a split, too. I’m afraid it is a poor seller and it will be discontinued so a back up would be great! I’m julia941 at yahoo dot com. Thanks!
Paolo
If you like ambers, have you tried Hermes? Hermes doesn’t specifically list amber as a note, but to my nose they wear wear ambery, or maybe it’s just that they’re strong. I suspect of the line, he may like Un Jardin en Mediterranee based on the listing of notes, but the whole line is probably worth a sniff. (Ignore that it’s a women’s scent, if you like it then it doesn’t matter.)
And I second the Montale recommendation.
Also, Comme Des Garcons Series 4 Anbar sounds like it has a lot of the things you’re looking for.
The first thing I thought of was Tauer L’Air du Desert Morocain too! For some who has wanderlust, is interested in the Middle East, and loves amber, it pretty much fits the bill. I would also second Terre d’Hermes, which someone else above mentioned. Maybe you would also like Annick Goutal Duel? Its a nice light casual mate (like the south american tea- there should be an accent on the e) scent.
I agree with Julia above; try the Hermes, especially Eau des Merveilles. Amber, bitter orange, and salt. I think this would be gorgeous on a man
oh, another vote for Merveilles.
it’s a beauty on skin.
My first thought was Musc Nomade by Annick Goutal. I just tried it in Paris last weekend and decided I am desperate to smell it on a man who could wear it well. Voyage D’Hermes is interesting but I think too aquatic? I find for travelling in the tier monde something that doesn’t clash with sweat is sadly vital. If you haven’t tried L’Air du Désert Marocain you must! Please report back and let us know how it goes, I would love to find more scents for work environments as you describe.
As soon as I read that he likes amber, but before I read the subsequent paragraph, I immediately thought of Hypnose Homme. Sounds like he likes that. Actually, Paolo, it sounds like you already have a pretty great wardrobe to choose from and that you choose fragrances well! It’s hard to give much help to someone like you, who clearly knows his way around a perfume counter!
You might enjoy trying Histoires de Parfums 1740 Marquis de Sade, Guerlain Coriolan, and another vote fo my perennial favorite, Terre d’Hermes (bergamot, orange & vetiver).
Also agree with Karen’s recommendation of Eau or Elixir des Merveilles.
first thought was ‘where i can meet that very interesting and intriguing guy’
lol
maybe try to layer Lancome’s Hypnose p.H. with Terre D’Hermes?
Marc Jacobs’s Amber, if he can still find it.
Chopard Casran.
OK– I just wanted to recommend something completely different– Roxana Villa Chapparal solid, or Sierra Solid Gold. With all the traveling, a nice little jar of solid fragrance is just the thing to keep in your pocket and apply to pulse points. The Chapparal is a fresh, stimulating, invigorating fragrance, and the Sierra solid is delicious. and suave All Roxana’s offerings stay politely close to the skin, someone has to be very close to you to experience how good you smell– which is very nice.
Some great advice up there. Big +1 on Eau des Merveilles and L’Air du Désert.
In the vein of citrusy but not boring, Etro Shaal Nur or Guerlain Cologne du 68 might be the ticket.
And whenever I hear “travel scent” I can’t help but recommend Comme des Garçons Ouarzazate, as that’s *my* travel choice. I find it much more agreeable than the Etro incenses, but YMMV, of course. Worth a try, I think!
I agree with the suggestion for Andy Tauer’s L’Air du Desert Maurocain. I also recommend his Lonestar Memories which is smokier.
You may like Un The du Sahara by Stephanie de St. Aignans-it’s fascinating. Others from her lines worth a try are Berberaides. Her Embruns d’Ambre is a unique ambre with aquatic notes that smells great. How she pulls this off, I have no idea.
Then there is Czech & Speake Cuba which is just drop dead sexy and their Dark Rose isn’t far behind it. Worth a try.
Have fun!!!!
Reading about Paolo’s character, my first thought was Habit Rouge by Guerlain.
My second thought – Terre by Hermes but still I’m almost 99% sure it’s not his scent.
Third suggestion: Xeryus Rouge by Givenchy
I don’t dig much into the ingredients so I don’t know if they fit with bergamot wish, but I believe in the whole composition and the images and feelings it evokes. Please try Habit Rouge!
Also maybe M7 (Fresh) by YSL? It goes very oriental and still very personal and close to the skin, not the ga-ga perfume.
Paolo —
Have you tried Paestum Rose? It is a unisex sex, Italian, and has gorgeous myrrh, which is in the Meharees by L`Erbolario you like so much, but with the dry, dark rose is a different kind of scent.
Again, yet another voice in support of L’Air du Dessert Marocain and Lonestar Memories.
I’d also strongly recommend you check out Let Me Play the Lion by Les Nez… it’s a spicy, dry, woody fragrance that I can’t get enough of…
And for something completely different, but which I think you might just like, check out Byredo’s Baudelaire. It’s a leather scent with an amber base, but it has unusual notes such as hyacinth, and is fascinatingly non-linear.
You seem very familiar to me Paolo, but then, I work in the same field.
oops — should always proofread first — Paestum Rose is a unisex scent, and yeah, it’s sexy
How about Costume National Homme? A bit gourmand, a bit fresh, a bit tropical (without having tropical notes), sexy, but not silly.
Or Parfums de Nicolai Patchouli Homme? Hardly any patchouli in there, but lots of spice, aroma, adventure! To me it’s even better than New York.
Good luck, Paolo!
I would suggest Santa Maria Novella Amber Lavender and Peau d’Espagne. They both great and I’m pretty sure there is a shop in London.
Another vote to get into Ormonde Jayne and try their line… the lime, bergamot and vetiver combo of Isfarkand may hit the spot or else one of the other wonderful OJ scents. Another possibility is the new Comme des Garcons / Monocle Scent 2 – Laurel… very redolent of the middle east and travels… in fact go into Dover Street Market and try all the Comme des Garcons there…