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Paris (and perfume): Day One

Posted by Angela on 5 April 2010 129 Comments

Paris

Coming to Paris was like being inducted into a cult. It started with sleep deprivation — an all nighter on a plane with the only sustenance being a trashy novel, a month of old New Yorkers, and cellophane-wrapped portions of food on a plastic tray. The captain (is it the same captain for every flight? I swear they all sound the same) announced it was 5 degrees in Paris and sunny. At last, the plane pierced a fluffy layer of clouds and we touched ground. I was grateful to leave the dry, cramped quarters of an Airbus to join the river of cranky travelers streaming for the metro.

The train clicked into town, braying a familiar tone when its doors closed. First we passed parking lots and industrial buildings covered in graffiti, then Soviet-style high rise housing complexes. A 19th-century building with a duvet spilling out the window to freshen in the sun and the red diamond of a tabac down the street hinted at the Paris to come. Billboard-sized ads for movies, cheap clothing, and, strangely, for a Paul Auster novel plastered the train stations. Then the train dipped below the city's surface into the sulfurous air of the Gare du Nord.

Exhausted, hungry, but thrumming with the excitement of having arrived, I emerged from the metro at Pont Royal to motorcycles, students dodging traffic, glorious architecture, and fresh spring wind blowing my hair in my eyes. I had the feeling of having crossed over from real life into a movie.

March and Louise met me at the apartment we rented. To respect their privacy, I won't say much about them, except that I hit the jackpot for travel companions. Our apartment is shabbily beautiful, with a fireplace in every room, including the bathroom, and elaborate plaster moldings painted over a dozen times. Closing the shutters last night from my seventh floor window, I could see the lights of cars moving down the Boulevard du Montparnasse below and clay chimney pots sprinkling roofs. The apartment's owner boasted the place was tastefully furnished, but to me it confirms my hunch that when God created France, she blessed it with savoir vivre, then balanced the blessing with bad pop music and loud wallpaper.

After lunch at Le Bullier around the corner (a tartelette covered with ratatouille and tuna, and a salad with a wonderfully biting vinaigrette), we walked to the Bon Marché. Right inside the door was a tester for the new Penhaligon's Orange Blossom — I only tried it on paper, but it was a pure, lovely orange blossom. Inside, I was able to try Voyage d'Hermès (peppery and fresh) and Christian Dior Diorama (a low-rent Amouage Jubilation 25). Dior also had Miss Dior in Eau de Toilettte and parfum, as well as a concentration called "Esprit de Parfum" which the saleswoman explained was more concentrated than Eau de Parfum, but less than extrait. Miss Dior's skank had been polished away, which might please a lot of people but made me sad.

Next we went to the Parfums de Nicolaï on rue de Grenelle where I broke down and bought a bottle of Le Temps d'une Fête Eau de Toilette. The saleswoman loved perfume, and it showed. She mourned the loss of the old chypres and described her perfumes with real passion, all in a sultry but friendly voice. Plus, we were into everything — spraying testers, wetting reams of paper strips, and raiding the sale table, and she was great humored the whole time.

The rest of the afternoon we spent wandering the left bank, stopping for a coffee and lemon tart and looking in store windows. I felt wired and drained, like I'd had two stiff drinks and two double espressos at the same time. I could barely move my feet, but I couldn't stop walking, looking, pressing my hand against a crumbly stone wall to try to bring home the fact that I was here and not in a trance. We passed La Palette, where men smoked cigars and played cards. We stood on the Pont des Arts and looked up and down the Seine as we occasionally raised a wrist or arm to our noses to catch the dry down of something nice.

Finally, we walked up the Luxembourg Gardens to the apartment. In the park it must have been dog social hour. A pint-sized mutt was hassling a boxer while two young women sat on a bench with their Jack Russell puppies. The leaves on the chestnut trees were curled and small, just barely ready to brave spring. In the apartment I cut up a baguette and made jambon-beurre-fromage sandwiches, which we washed down with a few glasses of Sancerre. Then a bath. Then, after 30 hours awake and jangled by the electricity of Paris, I slept like the dead.

I'm not sure I'll be able to respond to comments (although if I'm up by 4:30 am — yikes! — like I am today, I will.)

Note: image is L'île de la cité en HDR [cropped] by Frédéric de Villamil at flickr; some rights reserved.

[Ed. note: if you didn't know Angie was in Paris, then you must have missed Perfume and Travel. Tomorrow we'll post more of her adventures in Paris.]

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: france, paris

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129 Comments

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  1. prism says:
    5 April 2010 at 11:32 am

    it always humors me when i see Americans arriving in Europe, with a romanticized idea of the cities. i find it rather endearing :)

    with that said: Welcome to Europe!

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    • Kata says:
      5 April 2010 at 11:56 am

      Those are exactly my thoughts as well, Paris and the French have the best marketing in the world and people’s imagination runs wild when they think about Paris.

      I remember my first visit was such a let-down, I imagined it to be uber-romantic, larger-than-life and all I got was a busy, large city, rather cold and austere. I have visited Paris number of times since and have grown to like it, but not love it. But it is a paradise for perfume lovers, that credit can not be taken away, so I wish Angela many fragrant adventures:)

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      • Angela says:
        5 April 2010 at 12:21 pm

        I’m sorry Paris wasn’t as terrific as you’d hoped. You’re right, though–the perfume is terrific. And I had a lunch today I wish I could have every week for the rest of my life.

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      • Joe says:
        5 April 2010 at 5:25 pm

        Kata: You know, I think the thing is that everyone has one or a couple of places that speak directly and particularly to his or her soul… and Paris is so hyped in the collective consciousness, but it’s not “that place” for everyone. For example, Paris was a terrific experience, but I felt more like I had “come home” when I was in Barcelona. But I also visited the cities at different times in my life.

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        • ScentScelf says:
          5 April 2010 at 6:04 pm

          Joe, I agree entirely. Furthermore, I think sometimes our greatest disappointments come from places that have been lauded by people we are generally are simpatico with, but which do not resonate with us.

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        • zeezee says:
          6 April 2010 at 3:40 am

          Oh, so true. Paris is emphatically Not My City (actually, nor is France as a whole my country), but Barcelona is. And so is Berlin. Maybe it’s to do with the “B”s… I should visit Bratislava soon.

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:17 pm

      I’m glad to inspire endearing feelings! Really, though, I’m having a wonderful time and hope I can come back soon.

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    • Suzanne941 says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:23 pm

      Of course that never happens when Europeans come here to the States. No, not even here in Florida, where everyone expects us to find us lounging around in the sun all day, sipping mojitos… ;)
      Enjoy your trip, Angela! Keep us posted!

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      • Angela says:
        5 April 2010 at 12:38 pm

        Where I live, we’re supposed to be lumberjacks. Thanks for the good wishes!

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        • platinum14 says:
          5 April 2010 at 1:28 pm

          I’m in Canada and the last time i had friends over from Europe they were disappoinded not to see teepees and igloos…. and they had assumed that they could visit everything between New Brunswick and BC

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          • Suzanne941 says:
            5 April 2010 at 2:14 pm

            NO IGLOOS?!

          • Angela says:
            5 April 2010 at 2:20 pm

            And it doesn’t snow all the time? And people don’t ski everywhere?

          • CynthiaW says:
            5 April 2010 at 3:34 pm

            That reminds me of when some German friends of ours were visiting Washington D.C. – they were renting a car and kept telling us that they were going to pop over and visit us in Houston. Well, until they got here – after driving from D.C. to Philly (to see Philly, not on the way here), they called us and admitted that we were right all along and that it was too far to drive. They really had no idea of the size of the United States at all before coming.

            Nevertheless – I’m still planning my dream European vacation and, though I’m sure that I’m romanticizing the entire continent, I’m determined that I’ll have a good time. And I’ll smell even more fantastic by the time that I’m done.

          • Angela says:
            5 April 2010 at 4:26 pm

            DC to Houston! Talk about a roadtrip!

        • melisand61 says:
          5 April 2010 at 6:26 pm

          Oh and in the Washington DC area, everyone’s supposed to be a lawyer, politician or gov’t employee/contractor and dress in conservative and clothing and….um, I guess that’s kind of the way it is. :) No let downs here!

          Say hi to your traveling companions for me and have a great time!

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          • klytaemnestra says:
            6 April 2010 at 9:23 am

            Yeah, I was about to say that sounds just about right. I work a few blocks away from the White House and that tends to be what I see on a daily basis. We are as advertised.

      • SmokeyToes says:
        5 April 2010 at 12:43 pm

        It’s a bit different for tourists/snowbirds (winter residents) than residents though. And if you’re on the gulf coast, the powder white sand is amazing.
        When I head home to Sarasota, I make the attempt to visit my favorite beach access.

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        • Angela says:
          5 April 2010 at 12:45 pm

          Lounging in the white sand sounds great! Maybe Florida will be my next trip.

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          • Aparatchick says:
            6 April 2010 at 12:56 pm

            Make it this time next year, and you can come smell the orange blossom in my back yard. Ahhhhh …..

  2. mindxpandr says:
    5 April 2010 at 11:44 am

    Angela, WOW! You write so beautifully! I especially liked the line “The leaves on the chestnut trees were curled and small, just barely ready to brave spring.” When I read that line, I can feel the timidity of the newest buds. Thanks for sharing, have a safe and wonderful rest of your trip.

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:22 pm

      Thank you! I’m having a terrific time. The past two days have been sunny and breezy, and the little leaves are getting bigger!

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  3. Zazie says:
    5 April 2010 at 11:50 am

    Dear Angela, what to say? Your writing is so beautiful: it manages to convey the feeling of both the tired feet and the excitement of the wide-eyed traveller.

    I am glad you liked Penhaligon’s new OB: after months of research, I think it will be my FB OB purchase. I just need to test l’AP harvest one, for sake of completeness. But no matter how beautiful it may be, I think it won’t beat the Penhaligon’s, not at that price!! ;)

    Can’t wait to hear la suite from you, and wish you all the best!

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:23 pm

      Thank you! The Penhaligon OB was a nice, rounded, not screechy, not to sweet orange blossom–to me, at least.

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  4. parfumliefhebber says:
    5 April 2010 at 11:53 am

    Hey Angela, Welcome to Europe! Enjoy your visit in Paris.

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:23 pm

      Thanks for the welcome!

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  5. AnnS says:
    5 April 2010 at 11:55 am

    Fun reading! Keep us posted!!

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:24 pm

      I will! Although I’ve blown through most of the perfume shops by now…

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  6. mals86 says:
    5 April 2010 at 11:59 am

    What wonderful vicarious thrills! Wish I could go to Paris – but until I do go, I’ll just read your descriptions, Angela. I don’t know how it is that you tell me just what I wanted to know, without my asking. Thank you.

    Part of me is amused at the idea of a Dior being “low-rent,” except that in comparison to an Amouage it makes sense. I’m glad you nabbed some LTdF; it makes me so happy that I’m just ecstatic when anyone else appreciates it.

    I’ll bet your cats were glad to see you when you got home.

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    • mals86 says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:00 pm

      (Okay, now I need coffee. You’re posting FROM Paris, not after having returned home. Duh.)

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      • Angela says:
        5 April 2010 at 12:25 pm

        I’m not home yet–and I do miss my cat and dog! I find myself looking longingly at the dogs on the street and wanting to ruffle their fur and tell them they’re good dogs.

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        • Graham says:
          5 April 2010 at 3:23 pm

          Oh le beau toutou! Il est mignon! Oui – il est mignon! Oh le beau klebs! :) Bon – j’arrete… It did my heart good knowing that you passed through la Gare du Nord – that was “my” train station when I spent a high-school year in the northern burbs and came into Paris. Crazy combination of activities and smells THERE, that’s for sure! Hope you continue to have a wonderful time!

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          • Angela says:
            5 April 2010 at 3:31 pm

            Thank you! J’adore my toutou Tex.
            Gare du Nord, huh? The neighborhood around there seems to be really happening right now.

    • SmokeyToes says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:41 pm

      Isn’t everything pretty low-rent compared to Amouage prices? :)

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      • RusticDove says:
        5 April 2010 at 12:43 pm

        Good point SmokeyToes. ;-)

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        • Angela says:
          5 April 2010 at 12:46 pm

          Very good point!

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  7. Ally says:
    5 April 2010 at 12:09 pm

    Ok, I guess I’ll just chime in with the other Europeans here and say: Welcome to Europe!:) I do hope you’ll enjoy Paris – it sure is beautiful. Except to me it’s not exactly exotic, but it does have its own special aura. And of course, lots and lots of perfumes.:)

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:25 pm

      I guess if you spent a lot of time here, or lived here, it wouldn’t be exactly the same, but I’m having a great time. Thanks for the welcome!

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  8. RusticDove says:
    5 April 2010 at 12:15 pm

    Have a wonderful time in Paris Angela! I’m looking forward to reading about all of your adventures there – fragrant & otherwise. So nice of you to share with us!

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:35 pm

      Thank you! It’s a nice break to document my days first thing in the morning, or while I rest my feet at night. There’s so much I couldn’t (or really shouldn’t) put in the post, too. It’s been a great trip so far!

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      • Rappleyea says:
        5 April 2010 at 2:39 pm

        Oh do tell! Inquiring minds want to know. ;-)

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        • Angela says:
          5 April 2010 at 3:18 pm

          My lips are sealed!

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          • RusticDove says:
            5 April 2010 at 5:34 pm

            Are you trying to torture us Angela? haha

  9. damselfly says:
    5 April 2010 at 12:24 pm

    I’m so looking forward to reading your posts about your trip. Hope you have a wonderful time :)

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:35 pm

      Thank you so much!

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  10. Andrea D says:
    5 April 2010 at 12:36 pm

    Oh, Angela, enjoy yourself! I’m so happy for you. I’ve never been to Paris, despite my best intentions to make my way over last year during a trip to London, but I love living vacariously through your writing!

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:38 pm

      Too bad you’re not here now!

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  11. Aparatchick says:
    5 April 2010 at 12:39 pm

    I would dearly love to spray testers and raid the sale (sale!!) tables at PdN! I love Le Temps; just thinking about it makes me feel happy.

    Reading prism’s comment reminded me of a lady I knew who was born and raised in Soviet times in St. Petersburg (a city of immense beauty itself) . She had longed all her life to go to Paris and romanticized it to the nth degree, never thinking that she would be able to go there. When she did go in 2003, she told me it was everything she dreamed and more. She told me, “I didn’t get lost once – I dreamed of those streets every day of my life.”

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:48 pm

      I’m so glad she finally made the trip–it sounds like it was everything she dreamed of. (I just read your comment to March, and she said it made her eyes tear up.)

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      • Rappleyea says:
        5 April 2010 at 2:41 pm

        It made me tear up too! What a beautiful story, Aparatchick.

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        • miss kitty v. says:
          5 April 2010 at 3:16 pm

          Oh, I’m so glad it’s not just me! That’s such a moving quote, in ways I can’t put into words. It’s magical.

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          • Angela says:
            5 April 2010 at 3:19 pm

            I know! It’s so nice.

        • Angela says:
          5 April 2010 at 3:19 pm

          I agree!

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    • Veronique says:
      5 April 2010 at 1:10 pm

      Oh, it’s so romantic! Now if I can fax myself to Paris!

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      • Angela says:
        5 April 2010 at 2:20 pm

        It would save a bundle on airfare, that’s for sure.

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  12. SmokeyToes says:
    5 April 2010 at 12:39 pm

    Oh Angela-your trip sounds heavenly so far! Food, wine and perfume would be right at the top of my list. :)
    Have a lovely trip, are you planning on heading to the SL boutique?

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:49 pm

      Tune in tomorrow!

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  13. Helle says:
    5 April 2010 at 12:43 pm

    Wonderful post Angela! It’s a real treat to be able to follow your stay in Paris almost in real time, thank you so much for sharing. I was in Paris for the first time only a week ago and reading your beautiful descriptions of course boosts my own memories. I was thrilled to read about your visit at the PdN shop, which was one of the highlights of my trip – that “sultry voice” of the saleswoman, I could have listened to her for hours! Looking forward to your next post. :)

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:50 pm

      Were you the one who gave us the tip about the sale there? The SA (I think her name is Rebecca) was so knowledgeable and so passionate about fragrance that I could have listened for a long while, too.

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      • Helle says:
        5 April 2010 at 1:02 pm

        Yes, it was me :) Glad to hear the sale was still on!

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        • carmencanada says:
          5 April 2010 at 2:14 pm

          Rebecca Veuillet-Gallot is actually the author of a perfume guide, she worked at the Osmothèque and trained at the Givaudan school, so it’s no surprise she’s knowledgeable! I warmly recommend visiting her…

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          • Angela says:
            5 April 2010 at 2:21 pm

            There you have it!

  14. Filomena says:
    5 April 2010 at 12:48 pm

    Angela,
    Your beautiful writing brought back memories of my trip to Paris–which was many years ago and my very first trip to Europe. It was always my dream to go there and I also remember being disappointed upon arrival. However, after 12 days of traipsing through the city, I grew to love it and have always wanted to return. My next trip to Europe occurred many years later and that time I went to Italy, which I so fell in love with that I’ve been back 10 more times. But reading your blog has made want to see Paris once again. Enjoy your stay there. Happy sniffing and eating!

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 12:51 pm

      It would be wonderful to go to Italy, too–and there’s some good perfume in that neck of the woods, too.

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  15. jirish says:
    5 April 2010 at 1:10 pm

    Like many, I’m living vicariously through this post. On my one trip to Paris I only had time to hit one perfume shop – Lutens. The rest of my three days there was a whirl of activity, traveling with a group of 11 family members ranging in age from 72 to 7. Absolute chaos but loads of fun. And a fireplace in every room, including the bathroom? Sigh.

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 2:22 pm

      Sounds like fun! Although I bet it took forever to get everyone out of the house.

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  16. Karin says:
    5 April 2010 at 1:12 pm

    So excited to read about your trip, Angela. Thanks for posting! I plan to travel to Paris in September. Haven’t been in 14 years, and am anxious to go back. I wasn’t into perfume shopping last time…so, it will be so much fun this time around!!!

    I’d love to hear your must tries for restaurants, etc., and would also be interested in the apartment rental company you used! Would you recommend them?

    And from anyone who lives in Paris, or has traveled there before, would love to get your tips, too; including perfume stops. Email me at krnszn at gmail dot com, or post here if it’s not TOO long (I’m sure there are others who may be interested…and as long as it’s not off topic). Thanks!

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    • Helle says:
      5 April 2010 at 1:38 pm

      The two “paris perfume pilgrimage” posts over at Grain de Musc are indispensable. Scroll down and you’ll find them in the left side column. Here’s a link to the first one:
      http://graindemusc.blogspot.com/2009/07/paris-perfume-pilgrimage-part-i-right.html

      I also found lots of food- and other tips in this blog:
      http://www.davidlebovitz.com

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      • Karin says:
        5 April 2010 at 1:50 pm

        Oooh, awesome! Thanks, Helle!

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        • Helle says:
          5 April 2010 at 2:05 pm

          You’re welcome :) By the way, it’s supposed to be the RIGHT side column on the Grain de musc site, sorry!

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          • carmencanada says:
            5 April 2010 at 2:17 pm

            Just adding in case my posts on the itineraries didn’t make it clear, the Aepure shop on the Left Bank has closed doors for good. And make sure to go to the L’Artisan shop on the rue de l’Amiral de Coligny (Métro Louvre-Rivoli) and ask for Stéphanie Bakouche who works there a few days a week: she composed a perfume for MDCI.

          • Joe says:
            6 April 2010 at 2:44 am

            Not just “a” perfume, but the wonderful Invasion Barbare, of course! That’s terrific that she works at L’Artisan some of the time.

          • Helle says:
            6 April 2010 at 12:23 pm

            Carmencanada, I just want to say it again – your itineraries made my trip more than I could have dreamed of, perfume-wise! I’m so grateful you took the time to write all that information down.

  17. Daisy says:
    5 April 2010 at 1:26 pm

    I’m so glad you arrived safely and that the weather is cooperating…crossing fingers it stays beautiful for the entire trip.
    Now I’m trying to imagine the sale table at PdN…..heart rate is up, breathing a little rapidly….yup sounds like a great trip to me!!!
    :-)

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 3:21 pm

      Thank you! The weather has been better than predicted, I’m happy to say.

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  18. platinum14 says:
    5 April 2010 at 1:30 pm

    I love Bon Marché. Of course the name is very misleading…

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    • platinum14 says:
      5 April 2010 at 1:35 pm

      …and do check out the flea markets!
      After the perfumes, the Paris flea markets have brought me my most cherished treasures

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      • Angela says:
        5 April 2010 at 3:21 pm

        I do love flea markets.

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 3:21 pm

      No joke!

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  19. maggiecat says:
    5 April 2010 at 1:57 pm

    What a lovely post, Angela, although you have terribly aggravated my spring fever, to the point where I question remaining at work at all… Have a wonderful time. BTW, I’m from Florida, and you might want to think twice about that trip – or time it right anyway! Let’s just say I’m very happy to live in Dallas now!

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 3:22 pm

      But what about those white sand beaches? And mojitos?

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  20. Tama says:
    5 April 2010 at 2:14 pm

    “…when God created France, she blessed it with savoir vivre, then balanced the blessing with bad pop music and loud wallpaper.”
    LOL – that has to be one of the most priceless things I have read. What is funny is that it makes me want to visit Paris even more!

    Sounds like you are having a lovely time – aren’t good travel companions just the best? – and I definitely need to try that Penhaligon’s. I am always on the lookout for a good OB.

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 3:22 pm

      Good travel companions make all the difference, let me tell you. Too bad you’re not here with us!

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    • Haunani says:
      5 April 2010 at 5:21 pm

      Tama said pretty much everything I would have said, so I won’t make a separate post.

      I’m so glad you’re having a great time smelling and eating your way through Paris!

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  21. Queen_Cupcake says:
    5 April 2010 at 2:18 pm

    Wonderful to read your post, Angela. If you want to experience the most charming and wonderful chocolate shop in Paris, go to Michel Chaudun, 149 Rue de l’Université, 75007 Paris, France‎ – 01 47 53 74 40‎ . Utterly divine chocolate, made and charmingly displayed in a darling little shop. Very nice people, too. The chocolate is a bit spendy, but soooo worth it!

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 3:23 pm

      We will almost certainly check it out. Thanks for the tip!

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    • Kelly Red says:
      5 April 2010 at 4:33 pm

      You can also check out Christian Constant at 37 rue d’Assas 75006 in Paris. My favorite, divine unusual flavors but not weird :D They are VERY generous with samples! My friend and I actually started turning down offers to try ones! I bought a box that you could fill with your own choices and got one of each and a few duplicates that I wanted. Spendy, but so rich and satisfying that one or two will make you happy. Again, GENEROUS with samples!

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  22. Rappleyea says:
    5 April 2010 at 2:47 pm

    Tama (above) already beat me to it! I had already copied that quote to paste into my comment. It’s definitely a classic; should be cross stitched and framed!

    What a wonderful travelogue with such evocative descriptions. I could literally see, hear and feel everything you were describing. Continue to have a wonderful time, and thank you so much for taking time out of your trip to share with us.

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 3:24 pm

      You’re welcome! I’m back from a long and fabulous day of walking down the Canal St Denis, having a terrific lunch, and walking through the Marais. My feet kill, so a glass of wine and a few minutes at the computer is just the restorative ticket.

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      • Rappleyea says:
        5 April 2010 at 4:52 pm

        Lucky us!

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  23. Jill says:
    5 April 2010 at 3:03 pm

    I am still hoping to get to Paris sometime this year, so for the time being I’m living vicariously through your wonderful writing!
    I absolutely love the quote Tama pointed out above too. Awesome. Enjoy the rest of your trip — look forward to reading more.

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 3:25 pm

      So far, the living is hard to beat here, so I hope the living vicariously is good, too.

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  24. Joe says:
    5 April 2010 at 3:16 pm

    Awesome. I’ve only skimmed this once quickly so far, but thanks so much for including us by writing this travelogue. Totally enjoyable and envy-making.

    By the way, how proficient are all three of you in French? I’m just curious. You can speak only for yourself if you like. Even when I’m fairly proficient in a language I get so hung up and flustered with my listening skills… I fool people into thinking I know what I’m talking about because I have a good accent, but that’s a BIG mistake most of the time!

    Enjoy the rest of your visit! Congrats on the PdN bottle! SIGH!

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 3:26 pm

      My French is so-so. I can understand a fair amount, and can comfortably manage basic transactions, but no one would call me a strong speaker.

      I love my Temps d’une Fete! I also broke my one bottle rule and bought Like This, the new L’Etat Libre and love love love it.

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      • Jill says:
        5 April 2010 at 3:32 pm

        Oooh, I’ve been excited to try Like This — glad to hear you love it!

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        • Angela says:
          5 April 2010 at 4:27 pm

          I’m wearing it right now, in fact. It’s a good one for daily wear, unlike Le Temps d’une Fete, which seems more “particular” in some ways–although really lovely.

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      • Joe says:
        5 April 2010 at 4:15 pm

        Oh, dammit, Angela! I’ve had a plan to run a split for Like This for over a month now, but shipping direct from ELdO is outrageous, and Les Senteurs doesn’t have it, and it’s not to launch in the US until June! You are killing me, I tell you!

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        • Angela says:
          5 April 2010 at 4:28 pm

          June! Wow, I had no idea it would be that long. It’s worth the wait, I think.

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          • Joe says:
            5 April 2010 at 4:36 pm

            Know anyone who wants to work as a mule and come back with an extra valise full of perfume? LOL ;) Waiting is so hard… but not as hard as stomaching the 33.5€ shipping charge for 2 bottles!

          • Kelly Red says:
            5 April 2010 at 8:22 pm

            Joe- Funny story, I went to Paris 2 years ago with a friend. All I bought was expensive chocolate and very expensive perfume, 3 bottles. I dutifully wrote it down on the US customs form and carefully wrote in the prices. Now remember i ONLY bought one box of chocolates and 3 perfumes, nothing else. The custom agent looks at my form and comments (in a rather snide voice) “Must be pretty special perfume?” He demands to see my receipts because he couldn’t believe someone spent that much money on perfume!! HA! I should have included the addy for this website and he could have educated himself.

          • zeezee says:
            6 April 2010 at 3:54 am

            Joe – I’ll have to go and see if we will get it any earlier, I’m itching to do a split of it, too!

  25. miss kitty v. says:
    5 April 2010 at 3:22 pm

    The idea of the PdN sale table makes me hyperventilate.

    I’m so glad you’re having such a great time. You’re not missing anything here, that’s for sure. ;)

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 3:28 pm

      I miss my dog and cat. My friends I know I’ll see soon, but every time I see a dog wagging his little tale I wish I had Tex right here. I’m sure he’d love life as a Paris dog. We’d hang out at cafes, stroll the Luxembourg Gardens…

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      • Jill says:
        5 April 2010 at 3:34 pm

        I hear you. I always miss my cats terribly when I travel.

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        • Haunani says:
          5 April 2010 at 5:23 pm

          Same here. I even dream about them.

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  26. sharviss says:
    5 April 2010 at 3:22 pm

    The jealousy – it burns!! Just kidding (mostly!). Sounds like you’re having a fantastic trip. I can’t wait to hear more!

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 3:29 pm

      It’s been so darned long since I’ve been back (8 years) that you don’t have to be jealous.

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      • boojum says:
        5 April 2010 at 4:33 pm

        I do…I’ve never left this continent, though I forked over the funds for my daughter to do so when she was all of 2.5 years old. :( No fair! LOL!

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  27. Kari says:
    5 April 2010 at 3:28 pm

    Thanks for sharing your story! I just returned from my own perfume pilgrimage to Paris, but I only had to travel four hours by train, so I admit I enjoyed not being jet-lagged. I made much use of the ideas on Denyse’s graindemusc blog. I also included a trip to the Fragonard “museum” (for frees) which was interesting, I enjoyed seeing some of the very old and tiny flacons. They also had very cute and nicely priced solids with Paris landmarks printed on them that will make cute gifts, and they are just giving away the free samples! And I loved L’Artisan Parfumeur shop, the woman working there was so patient and kind with me. I’ve never owned a FB of any L’Artisan, so Havana Vanille became my first. Fleur de Liane would have been FB-worthy if it weren’t so darned fleeting! I woke up the morning after visiting Bon Marche with my nose buried in the wrist where I’d tried Spiriteuse Double Vanille…

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 3:29 pm

      I haven’t been to the Fragonard Museum, but you make it sound fun! I’m glad you bought HV, it’s one of my favorites. Where else did you go?

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  28. sayitisntso says:
    5 April 2010 at 3:37 pm

    Angela, I am so envious. I was i Paris in September at stayed at the Hotel Michelet Odeon, which is directly across the street from the Luxembourg Gardens – in fact, some of the hotel’s room overlook the garden. From what you describe, you sound to be close to the Odeon Metro station and Boulevard Saint Germain…well, depending on which side of the garden your apt. is on, I suppose *sigh* I’ll be returning to Paris in June (dating a wonderful man there…talk about your long distance relationships!) and I cannot wait!

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 4:29 pm

      You have a pretty great reason to visit, it sounds like! Our apt is on the Observatoire side of the park, just off the Blvd du Montparnasse.

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  29. ggperfume says:
    5 April 2010 at 4:19 pm

    Love your reporting– I feel I’m following your every footstep– and even (almost) tasting the foods and smelling the perfumes.

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    • Angela says:
      5 April 2010 at 4:30 pm

      Oh good, I’m glad you like it.

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  30. cazaubon says:
    5 April 2010 at 4:35 pm

    The first time I went to Paris over 20 years ago, I felt in my heart that I had come home. I’ve been there too many times to count since then, and it is magical every time. Have a wonderful time and I look forward to reading your travelogues! Have a macaroon at Pierre Herme for me.

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  31. alucas1877 says:
    5 April 2010 at 4:43 pm

    Angela,
    I hope you are having an amazing time and from your wonderful description in the article above it seems that way.
    I truly wish you continue to have a beautiful and fragrant time in Paris!!!!
    Warm wishes,
    ~Alexandra~

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  32. Julia says:
    5 April 2010 at 5:37 pm

    Thanks, Angela. I love reading your descriptions of perfumes, food, fashion, gardens, etc., and now I get messages from Paris. I’m looking forward to the next!

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  33. redscorpio says:
    5 April 2010 at 5:54 pm

    I’m so jealous! Paris in spring, perfume shopping ,fab food…a perfect holiday I think! Next year is my trip to Spain, Italy and southern France, hopefully there are some lovely perfume shops in those parts of the world, I just have to endure 20+ hours on a plane to get there!
    Thanks for the wonderful writing, Angela.

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  34. Philippe says:
    5 April 2010 at 6:00 pm

    Aaaah Paris…. I love this city so much. The way you write made me go there. You write so very well, Angela. Thank you for this wonderful article.

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  35. ScentScelf says:
    5 April 2010 at 6:17 pm

    Angela, it is very generous of you to share your trip with us like this. Seriously–you could be off doing other things. Or nothing. Both of which I hope you get more opportunity to do. :) (There’s something romantic about just wandering and daydreaming and soaking it in…that is sometimes a “doing nothing” that feeds my soul.)

    Regardless, your account(s) is (will be) welcome. I cherish my Pd’F, and love that you’ll have a tale to go with your bottle. Continued wishes for joy and relaxation to all three of you.

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  36. Ericgmd says:
    5 April 2010 at 6:33 pm

    Angela, please don’t forget the shrine of them all: Les salons du Palais Royal Shiseido!
    I hope you are greeted by the handsome Spaniard Carlos who is so charming and so soft spoken. The way he dips the filter paper into the bell shaped bottle before he puts the scent on your skin will make your heart swoon :-)

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  37. ajuarez says:
    5 April 2010 at 7:11 pm

    Angela,
    Thanks for the great article, injoy Paris, get plenty of site seeing, and have fun while you can, you lucky woman!
    Best whishes to you and your companions!!!

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  38. guerlaingirl says:
    5 April 2010 at 8:20 pm

    Thank you for taking time from your sight-seeing to share your adventures. How marvelous!

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  39. nozknoz says:
    5 April 2010 at 9:22 pm

    Angela, I’m so glad you are there in the epicenter of perfume and other delights, and very grateful that you are letting us tag along vicariously! I’d be happy if I wrote so beautifully just once in my life, let alone with jet lag! Beautiful art, too, that really sets the mood.

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  40. AnnE says:
    5 April 2010 at 10:36 pm

    Angela, it’s so much fun to read your posts from Paris and enjoy the city with you vicariously! I love Paris, and I remember my first trip 12 years ago, coming up out of the Metro into the city (at the Invalides stop) and thinking, “it’s just like in the movies.” I was not disappointed. :-)

    A sale at PdN? oh, do you know how long it will last? My DH is taking a day off from his business trip to go to Paris on Saturday, and I’ve asked him to pick up a bottle of Weekend a Deauville for me. I fell in love with that one at first sniff.

    I hope you will have time to post again! I love hearing about your adventures there, and in your inimitable style. :-)

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  41. crowflower says:
    5 April 2010 at 11:10 pm

    A toast to vicarious perfume shopping and smelling, with a glass of something good!

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  42. k-scott says:
    6 April 2010 at 10:25 am

    Ah, la vie bon vivant en Paris! I’m so excited that we’re going to get some posts about your trip. Paris is IMHO one of the most stimulating and beautiful cities in the world. And the Parisians are less rude if you at least attempt to speak French- or pretend you’re Canadian, lol! You’re going to have the experience of a lifetime. Congrats on your new ‘fume purchase and I hope that the rest of your trip is amazing!

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  43. elise says:
    6 April 2010 at 11:05 am

    Love it!!!!! More more more! ENJOY your time in Paris!

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  44. megank4 says:
    6 April 2010 at 2:35 pm

    welcome to france!

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  45. Bibitry says:
    7 April 2010 at 6:57 pm

    “We passed La Palette, where men smoked cigars and played cards. We stood on the Pont des Arts and looked up and down the Seine as we occasionally raised a wrist or arm to our noses to catch the dry down of something nice.”

    Ahhh – this is a poem :D
    I really, really enjoy reading this. Wish I was there…

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