Today's subject is Jonathan. Jonathan lives in Berlin, and is looking for an evening fragrance — something to wear dancing at night. His perfect scent would combine traces of the grilled hazelnut from Hermès Vétiver Tonka, the floral aspects of Le Labo Rose 31 and the spices, the flint and the non-musk of Terre d'Hermès. He's willing to spend up to $140.
Jonathan is in his 20s, and works in the engineering business. He compares himself to the man in the Terre d'Hermès commercial: a grounded dreamer.
He says he's an "urban but nature loving boy" — he "grew up in a village where big green hills and rocky small paths through deep psychedelic woods were just a few minutes away".
He loves music and dancing.
Jonathan likes fragrances that are spicy but not too sweet. His first fragrance was Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger, and he now finds it too sweet. Fragrances he likes include Hermès Terre d'Hermès, Hermès Vétiver Tonka (although it's a bit too feminine) and Brin De Reglisse, Le Labo Rose 31 (but he doesn't like the sweet musks after a few hours).
He doesn't like overwhelming sillage, heavy sweet florals or strong musks. He tried Chanel Allure Homme Edition Blanche, but found it "too sweet and too common" and Kenzo Tokyo, which had overly "aggressive citrus notes".
What say you?
Note: image is Postbox [cropped] by rebel rebel at flickr; some rights reserved.
I keep wanting to suggest Santa Maria Novella Vetiver or Muschio Oro. Vetiver is a fresh woody oriental. The latter is a musk, but it’s a very fresh musk and has spice & citrus notes. They’re both $110.
I’d love to go out dancing and smell either of these on a man.
Commes de Garcon Carnation, maybe? Despite its name, it’s not floral at all – just spicy.
Blvgari Black or Le Labo Patchouli 24 are also smoky, masculine kinds of scents – although I can only wear them when it’s cold and in small doses. Then again, I’m not a man, either.
I can’t think of anything that combines all-in-one the notes described in the first paragraph, but I’d recommend sampling the following:
– M Micallef Gaiac
– Lauder Brasil Dream for Him
– CSP L’Eau du Gouverneur
– L’Artisan Méchant Loup
And perhaps Cereus No. 10 if he can find that.
Good luck, Jonathan.
Jonathan, good luck with your specific, well-organized scent goal! Like Joe, I can’t think of something that fits all the criteria, but Etro’s Vetiver has a milky hazelnut-type note that is not sweet or feminine. I don’t find it particularly musky, but it is “opqaue”, earthy and strong. I find something rather mineral (and spicy of course) about Cartier Declaration, but it’s also rather sharp and citrusy, so I’m not sure if that fits your mineral category.
Ive owned and love Terre D’Hermes, but i dont know what the other 2 smell like. Similar scents to the Hermes, in my opinion, would be Comme Des Garcons Incense: Kyoto and Montale Red Vetyver.
I second L’Artisan Méchant Loup. It’s not flowery, but it does have that nut note.
Ooh, yeah – I second Mechant Loup. Wore it myself the other week and LOVED it.
Also – spicy yet not too sweet is Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens. Very very nice.
Ambre Sultan has some pretty fair sillage, though. I adore it – my husband wears it and it’s fabulous on him (he has olive skin and a slightly spicy natural scent). On me, with my fair skin, it’s just overpowering.
What about Sonoma Scent Studios Tabac Aurea?
It’s missing the floral element, but Byredo Bal d’Afrique might be up your alley. Also, as a long-shot entry, L’Artisan Safran Troublant.
I wish I grew up near those woods!
Metallic, creamy, non-musk (and non-sweet)… well, the first thing that popped into my head is Sécrétions Magnifiques by Etat Libre d’Orange. You could try it and see….
The next that sprang into mind, and that has already been mentioned here, is Mechant Loup. It has the same creamy metallic accord as Sécrétions Magnifiques, but also has hazelnut.
For a man’s scent that captures the flowers and spice, but is more ambery than what you have described, give L’Air du Désert Marocain. It is superbly blended, unusual, and gorgeous.
Another thought I had for you is Comme des Garcons 2. Again, it has part of what you are looking for…
21 by Costume National, now that I think about it, has most of what you are looking for… the creamy, spicy, flower and tonka bean.
Of course, there is the spicy, dry rose scent of Paestum Rose. I think it is more up your alley than Le Labo.
Il Profumo’s Vetiver de Java may fit the bill.
It’s a floral/woody vetiver with a hint of incense. By far one of the best vetivers around.
Luckyscent lists the notes as such:
lavender, vetyver, birch, encense, red rose, Cashmere cypress, guayac wood, oak moss.
Hi Jonathan. Here are my recs:
Terre d’Hermes in the *parfum* formulation
Les Parfums de Rosine Rose d’Homme (perfect masculine floral, a little soapy but dry – not sweet at all)
Chanel Sycomore – gorgeous smoky vetiver that starts off dark but dries down bright
I would also second the CDG Kyoto recommendation.
Berlin is my favorite city, so I definitely have to give a shout-out to Jonathan!
I second the L’Air du Désert Marocain suggestion. Two out of the Eau d’Italie range could be a good fit as well. Baume du Doge for spices and incense, and Sienne l’Hiver.
‘Aus Liebe Zum Duft’ fuehrt beide Linien, leider weiss ich nicht ob man da auch Proben bekommen kann. Ich hoffe es ist etwas passendes dabei.
Hello, Jonathan. First one to spring to my mind was one that Joe recommended, Comptoir Sud Pacifique L’Eau du Gouverneur. Perhaps also the gloriously spicy Caravelle Epicee, by Frapin, and Frederic Malle Noir Epices. And I agree with others that Etro Vetiver’s nutty quality could appeal to you. A couple more that might be up your alley: L’Artisan Parfumerie Navegar and Lubin Idole.
Noir Espices is a great suggestion!! Love it!
Hi Jonathan,
Here’s a few suggestions that came readily to mind. By the way Terre d’Hermes is my favorite mens fragrance.
Musc Ravageur by Frederck Malle- a spicy musk with being overdone.
Lonestar Memories by Andy Tauer-just use a little, but I think you’ll like the smokiness.
Dark Rose by Czeck & Speake- a rose with woods (I think it’s sexy on a man). Also check out their Cuba. It’s a spicy fragrance.
Good luck!
I’m a fan of Terre D’Hermes and I agree entirely with the Chanel Sycomore rec. Also, Jonathan MUST try Nasaomatto Duro which is a thrilling non-sweet spicy fragrance with a bit of leather. It is a bit sexy and very appealing. Some others that Jonathan should explore are: Cristiano Fissore Cashmere for Men, Escentric Molecules Escentric 01, Frapin’s Terre de Sarment and Comme des Garcons 2 (for Men).
I love Terre both in edt and parfum concentration. I usually go clubbing wearing either that or Armani Attitude/ Dior Homme Intense, easy to find them and not overly expensive!
I like Uomo Moschino, which smells like tobacco and soap, not overly sweet. Animale Temptation for women smells completely masculine and is a sort of skin musk scent.
I think that it might be worth tying Etro Shaal Nur. It opens with lovely, dry (but not thin) vetiver and incense and as it develops it gets little sweeter and nicely spicy.
Go try Kelly Caleche Eau de Toilette. Sounds crazy, but I bet on a mens skin it turns POW WOW WAWUMM! You can layer some Eau de Meveilles with it.