Today we're helping Lauren, who needs a few perfumes she can tango in — right now, all she's got is Donna Karan Black Cashmere and she's getting tired of it. Her tango scent should not be too powerful, nor should it be too crazy: it should be interesting but crowd-friendly. Lauren is looking for "the olfactory equivalent of Cat Power's voice — sensual, but not overly sexy, with character".
Here is what we know about Lauren:
She's in her 20s, and lives in the Pacific Northwest. She goes out to tango about 3 times a week.
Lauren majored in Russian Literature and now works in a veterinary diagnostic lab. She says she has a dark/dry sense of humor, and is prone to sarcasm.
Her tango wardrobe is mostly black, purple, and red, and she has two pairs of tango shoes: one purple with laces that go around the ankle, the other copper with crossing ankle straps.
Here are some of the fragrances that Lauren loves:
Tauer Perfumes L'Air du Desert Morocain: she adores the incense and how calm it makes her feel.
Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir: it doesn't have the right vibe for a tango scent, but she likes the patchouli and berry combo.
Annick Goutal Eau de Lavande: she loves the dry lavender, and it reminds her of when she was young and her father smoked a pipe and she would make him blow smoke rings.
Hermés Un Jardin Sur le Nil
L'Artisan Dzing!: a very cozy, welcoming scent.
Lauren also likes Jo Malone Lotus Blossom and Water Lily, Diptyque Philosykos, Chanel Cuir de Russie and Annick Goutal Duel.
She likes but doesn't wear Frederic Malle L'Eau d'Hiver (too cold, Eau d'Italie Sienne L'Hiver (also too cold), Chanel Bois des Iles (she has a hard time with aldehydes).
Lauren dislikes Jo Malone Dark Amber and Ginger Lily (pet store rodent aisle), Cumming by Alan Cumming (burnt tire smell makes her ill).
What say you?
Note: image is you've got mail. [cropped] by e³°°° at flickr; some rights reserved.
Hello Lauren — I also love Andy Tauer’s scents. Since you admire his L’Air, you should check out Incense Rose (I always think that rose goes with tango!) and since you like lavender also, maybe Reverie au Jardin (might be too cool for tango, but you might like it just for everyday!). Would love to see a picture of those tango shoes!!
Another resounding yes yes YES to the Incense Rose! It’s the first thing that popped into my mind, before I even read that Lauren liked L’Air. Some people find it too dry, but I think it’s almost unbearably sultry — perfect for tango.
Incense Rose popped into my mind, too!
Lauren has some fine pefume.
I want her shoes!!
I want her shoes, too!
Another vote for the shoes– and while we’re at it, a pic of the tango dresses too.
I think Ormonde Woman would make a great tango scent. It’s sensual and mysterious without being loud or in your face sexy. I find it to be a very unique scent, unlike any other. However, in my mind, it as has something in common with Black Cashmere, Dzing! and Chanel Cuir de Russie (wood? spices?).
Notes (from TPC): cardamom, coriander, grass oil, black hemlock, violet, jasmine absolute, vetiver, cedar wood, amber, and sandalwood.
Happy hunting!
Ormonde Woman is my long-time favorite, my default scent. I’m sure she can tango.
Yup, I thought about OJ Woman too. Gorgeous. Also check out Orris Noir from Ormonde Jayne. It’s a sultry, dark lily scent. Also from OJ, Ta’if is a gorgeous, sheer rose scent. It’s very crowd friendly, uber-feminine, sultry and absolutely intoxicating.
Hmm, going on the cues of a sensual, but not overtly sexy scent, I’d suggest Amouage Lyric, and Delrae’s Bois de Paradis. Since she likes the patchouli/berry vibe of Pom Noir but doesn’t find it tango-worthy, perhaps TDC’s Divine Balkiss? It’s more of a sparkling scent, perhaps more dance worthy? I second the Incense Rose suggestion, and also think Andy’s Un Rose Chypree might be a tango worthy scent. Also, can’t resist, what about Aftelier’s Tango? It’s been awhile since I’ve sampled it, but I remember it as distinctly sensual, with the very unusual note of smoked seashell. My only problem with it was its duration, but I tend to have that trouble with natural perfumes — they don’t last more than 1 1/2 to 2 hours on me.
I dont know what makes a scent a tango scent, but Im going to suggest Tom Ford Black Orchid, and Serge Lutens Five 0’clock Au Gingembre. I think the latter smells similar to L’Air in the drydown.
Cat Power’s voice (I love her! I was just listening to The Greatest when I read the post) makes me think of Parfumerie Générale Felanilla, which I find rough and warm, though it might be too cozy/snuggly for tango (just imagining here…), but for no particular reason tango made me think of Tocade and Le parfum de Thérèse too.
I second Tocade. Maybe it’s the roses.
Oh, I forgot to add Chergui: might be nice for someone who already loves L’air du désert marocain and it’s also another catpoweresque fragrance to my nose/ears.
I was thinking perhaps Kilian’s Taste of Heaven, but it might be too subtle?
I’d love for you to find something in Pacifica’s line, they’re such a great Pacific NW company. Plus they tend to wear close to the body, which should work well for tango. Perhaps Spanish Amber, Tibetan Mountain Temple since you like incense, or their new Mexican Cocoa?
On the same lines as L’Air du Desert, what about OJ Ta’if?
Agree with Chergui and Felanilla and also suggest Guerlain Bois d’Armenie and PG L’Ombre Fauve for that smoky, moody vibe.
I thought perhaps finding a CDG Incense series that could layer well with just a drop of Fracas for warmth and sensuality? Alone Fracas is very va va voom, but if you cooled it down with some incense it could make for a sexy and unusual fragrance. Just apply the Fracas first and definitely judiciously so you get that soft little cloud of sillage that won’t overwhelm your dance partner.
SL’s Daim Blond is also ridiculously sexy, as is Caron’s Narcisse Noir, and it’s been my experience that both wear close to the skin.
Good luck and have fun with your search. There’s so many fabulous suggestions to explore.
Ooh, Narcisse Noir! I just discovered this one and LOVE it! I also second the suggestions for Ta’if, Incense Rose, and Chergui. Another one that might suit you, Lauren, is Serge Lutens Gris Clair. It combines the lavender and incense that you like!
Habanita was my first thought, but maybe just because to me the name goes well with the tango?
Oh! Great idea! Very much the empowered sexy woman scent!
I was going to suggest Habanita as well. Perhaps because I just bought it for Christmas and because I am a salsa dancer. I thought it may fit.
Another nice one is Casmir by Chopard, a bit sweet but likeable.
Along the “dark” lines and slightly sweet:
• Trish McEvoy Sexy #9
• Yves Rocher Iris Noir
For discreet effect:
• Guerlain Cuir Beluga (I don’t think the aldehydic topnotes are overbearing)
• Feminite du Bois (in the long run, it might bore as Black Cashmere did)
• Vetivers in general might be worth exploring—Vetiver Tonka, Sel de Vetiver, et al.
• AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo Hindu Kush (d-r-y, subdued and sexy)
This is the first time I’ve responded to a “help find a fragrance” post because, for the first time, I feel like I relate to Lauren’s preferences.
Lauren and I have SO MUCH in common. Painful shoes, a love of dance, a rainy home world. Lauren and I were going to be perfect buddies until I read:
“Lauren dislikes Jo Malone Dark Amber and Ginger Lily (pet store rodent aisle), Cumming by Alan Cumming (burnt tire smell makes her ill).”
Oh, Lauren. How could you? Dark Amber and Ginger Lily forever! Or at least until I run out of my limited edition bottle! (I will admit that I occasionally get the smell of dill pickles from it.)
Since I am feeling uncreative, I’d recommend Epic Woman (Amouage). I bought a split on Scent Splits; a little bit goes a long way, and the smell is sensual, powerful, and painfully beautiful at the same time.
Can someone explain to me how Eau d’Hiver is “cold”? I’ve certainly heard many people say this, but other than the name, to me, the scent is warm and inviting.
Oh, was just reading Kevin’s recent review and he mentioned Lutens Fumerie Turque. That’s smoky, sexy, and tango-worthy… I think.
Hi Andrea D! I find many heliotrope and iris fragrances to be “cold”. I see that Eau d’Hiver has both. I found it cold. Lauren mentions that Sienne l’Hiver is cold to her. For me, that one is actually on the warm side, despite its name!
I second Ormonde Woman and Rochas Tocade. For a mix of patchouli and rose I recommend trying Divine’s L’Inspiratrice. It’s very simple, soft but sensual.
And Andy Tauer’s Le Maroc pour Elle would be perfect for a hot summer night.
Good luck choosing your fragrances!
I’ll second Le Maroc – that scent is gorgeous, fun and sexy.
Tabu would be perfect! It’s sexy, cheap and has a Tango-mood about it; not the most prim or proper scent out there but its full of energy and sensuality. If Tabu’s a little too overpowering then I agree with Rictor07, Black Orchid would be a good choice.
Ooh, I second Tabu if she’s going for sexy. Smolderingly, naughtily sexy.
I agree Black Orchid is worth sampling. Also Noir Epices. Both are “powerful,” but to me that can always be toned down with a lighter application.
I’s also suggest Parfums de Nicolai Balkis, Rochas Femme … and on the higher end of the spectrum, Amouage Epic, Lyric, or Jubilation. The newish Mercier Minuit Enchantèe is also lovely and glamorous.
I’ll second, third, etc, all the ones Joe rec’s… esp. Noir Epices… And the black orchid – I was thinking particularly of the BO Voile de Fleur – I just recently smelled this. It is so fun, so sexy, so *womanly* and I mean that in a very lush, happy, fun, sexy, voluptuous way… it makes me think of exuberant ladies with big flowers in their hair and lots of colorful dresses (a la Oscar de la Renta), but sexy tango with strappy heels is good too.
And along the lines of LM Minuite Enchantee I’d like to add Mauboussin which is very similar – warm sexy fun oriental – a lot of personality, but also a fragrance that draws you in. It wouldn’t be too much for a dance partner that’s close by. It would smell good spritzed on your ankles too!!
Second Mauboussin. It is special!
You could tango with CdG’s Series 2: Red Carnation. Spicy. You only need little because it goes a long way. It’s not offensive either.
2nd for Feminite du bois; that initial blast of peach and cedar is wonderful, and then it settles down into something ‘sensual but not overly sexy’. I tend to wear this a lot during late summer and autumn, and then Black Cashmere during the winter.
In case that’s a bit soft for tango, Bandit could work well – bitter and sexy without being over the top.
Ooh, yes – this is a wonderful scent. I second this one! It is very, very ‘noir’. The EdT is brasher, whereas the pure parfum is smoother, deeper, richer.
Hmmm. I agree on Black Orchid and Feminite du Bois and Daim Blond and Bandit and probably several others. (I need to try that Fracas/incense combination – I never thought of that.)
Serge Lutens Un Lys is a gorgeous floral, very feminine, but after the first few minutes not too aggressive.
Parfumerie Generale Tubereuse Couture? Tuberose calmed and chilled with some green notes, so that the power’s there, but at a distance. Smelling it in my mind, I’m not sure if it would be too sexy or not sexy enough for tango, but that suggests that it could be just right.
Oddly, I’m also thinking Ivoire. The stand-back formality of it seems as if it could be an interesting contrast with a tango. But that’s a long shot; I’m probably just being whimsical.
PC – I totally get where you’re coming from with Ivoire. Great idea!
Wow, this is one of the best Monday Mails ever in terms of the applicant’s self-description. Don’t think we’ve ever had shoes-as-perfume-diagnosis before, but I love it! (And the shoes.)
I’m a big BC fan, and agree with many of the suggestions here, especially Feminite du Bois, Amouage Lyric, Comme des Garcons Carnation, Malle Parfum de Therese (though that might be a bit big for the dance floor), Habanita (if it doesn’t turn to powder on you as it does me), Fumerie Turque and Chergui (if they’re not too sweet–might want to dab rather than spray), the Tauer scents and Ormonde Woman.
To that list, I’d add a couple of deep dark roses–People of the Labyrinths’ A-Maze, Montale Aoud Roses Petals if you can get through the medicinal blast at the opening (I love it, other folks decidedly do not), and if you like that Montale, try another–Black Oud, even deeper and darker with a growl of leather and patchouli at the bottom. For a dark rose that is more intellectual, try Eau d’ Italie’s Paestum Rose–it’s almost all myrrh and frankincense, but with a dark rose warming it’s heart. And hey — I’d start with the POTL to see if you like the category–you might not want to go any further if don’t!
Well, Lauren, on this very site, Robin told us about the launch of
Aftelier Tango back in ’06, and it sounds rather perfect for you:
Tango is a liquid perfume, “inspired by the dance of love, sexy and smoky with roasted seashells and champaca; a heady floral with spice and honey notes.”
And if not Tango, how about Rumba? Balenciaga makes it, and it’s quite delightful — and can be found for a laughably low price online, as in under $20 for 100mls (!). Angela reviewed it here on NST and she really does justice to it:
Rumba is big and deep, and is a strange but compelling combination of a hot electric burner, fruit, and beeswax. Even as an Eau de Toilette, Rumba has maximum sillage. I’m tempted to say that it’s juicy, but its fruit — and there’s lots of it — quickly turns to something richer, like Madeira. Rumba’s flowers appear then disappear then gently reappear amidst the churchy wood, as if they’re blowing in from a night garden. I’ve read reviews of Rumba that compare it to a nightclub, and I imagine a Cuban bar with an outdoor seating area and a palm reader in the corner ready to tell you your fate while you sip your second El Floridita. Meanwhile, the music inside is loud, and a deadly handsome man is watching you (here insert Sean Connery circa 1964). Rumba was introduced in 1988, and the fragrance notes include mirabelle plum, peach, orange blossom, and raspberry up top; magnolia, tuberose, orchid, gardenia, jasmine, carnation, heliotrope, and honey in the middle; and amber, oakmoss, vanilla, sandalwood, tonka bean, musk, and styrax in the base. It was created by perfumers Jean Claude Ellena and Ron Winnegrad.
Happy dancing.
Robin R: you (and Angela) just made me feel like I really need to hunt down a sample of Rumba myself! “Hot electric burner, fruit, and beeswax” sounds like it’s right up my alley of the unusual.
Joe, Angela sure has the gift, doesn’t she?
(Usually, with my luck, the stuff that gets me all revved-up when I read about it is invariably the stuff that’s $600 for 15mls, so isn’t that nice the Rumba is dirt cheap? In an ideal world, it would happen all the time to every one of us!)
Hi Lauren. I think you should test Gucci Rush. It is a bold, spicy, and intoxicating woody floral. It’s perfect for going out at night. Most of all, it isn’t one of those fragrances everyone is wearing (even though Sephora sells it). Everytime I wear it someone tells me (good or not so good) it’s like nothing else they’ve smelled before.
I second Gucci Rush. Its great, peachy, fuzzy, and warm, but a few sprays will fill a room– its damn strong. Cinnabar and Youth Dew sound up your alley also. Good luck!
From the land of Tango itself, some words…
When I was around 5 years old (31 years ago to be precise) my granpa used to take me to places where he played guitar for a tango group…It was just a hobby of his, not his dayjob.
My memories of the female tango dancers at the time (Yes! amazingly I remember some!) is that ALL perfumes, wether they were oriental (I can recall Ylang Ylang, of course I didn’t know the names then) or floral (rose, jasmin, skanky and cheap smelling tuberose) were ALL DRY as a bone.
And it seems this girl/woman already has impeccable taste… So I’ll refrain from making a straightforward suggestion
How about Le Labo’s Iris 39 or Rose 31? Both are lovely scents with spirit, personality and depth. Both also have a great lasting power and sillage. Very sexy stuff (IMHO).
Oh, and I also suggest Bandit-verry sexy leather chypre.
The dry and not offensive leads me to recommend Dyptique Tam Dao. For incense that is very sheer L’artisan Passage d’Enfer – hopefully not too cold for you.
I can’t dance to save my life and don’t know much about Tango, but it alwasy seems melancholic to me – an ideal candidate for L’heure Bleue. Along those lines (and my favorite) PdN Sacrebleu, which smells to me like L’heure Bleue with pink bubblegum, but in the best possible way.
So many people have suggested the scents that have popped into my mind, so forgive me if I am repetitive.
MFK Lumiere Noir Pour Femme-a sexy dark rose
Iris Taizo by Parfumerie Generale
Orris Noir by Ormonde Jayne
Musc Ravageur by Frederic Malle
Bois de Violette by Serge Lutens
Passage D’Enfer-a lovely incense
Geisha Noir by Aroma M
And lets not forget Shalimar!
I can’t wait to see what you decide on! Happy Sniffing!
I do tango, though not as often as I’d like, and I wear Dzing or Terre D’Hermes Parfum when I go. I salute you and recommend Encens Flamboyant , Bvlgari Black, and Incense Rose (mentioned by a few already).
Bulgari Black is one of my salsa dancing scents. Another, though it is intensely sweet, is Hypnotic Poison. My dance partners seem to find it hypnotic, for lack of a better word. I prefer the Black because the edge makes me feel more powerful. As others have said, Bandit is also good, it doesnt just soothe but energizes and helps bring the Fierce.
Ooh. Dry. Incense. Serge Lutens Serge Noire?
Oh, you all are making me so excited! These suggestions are fantastic. Thank you all so much! -Lauren
God, does anyone remember the sad disappointment of Tarantella? I sent off a note (on good stationary) to the owner, thanking him for the sample but man that was a tough one to abide. Being a theatre dancer and student in my youth, I had high hopes for it to embody the spirit of dancing and sensuality. It was not a good outcome.
Lauren, my recs are:
Fracas
Laura Mercier – either Nuits Enchantee editions are fine
Tabu
Rumba – Balenciaga
OJ Woman
Coco Chanel EdP
Tom Ford Black Orchid – daubed on pulse points only
My only real experience in Tango (outside the studio) occurred in the Andes, after drinking and a DJ with a penchant for electronica – I was game but confused – those nights were spent wearing Fracas and watching loose cows wander through town. It was a lot sexier than is described here. The Fracas lent a creamy sensuality that envisioned high lifting thighs and precise movements… controlled sensuality that hinted at a future sense of abandonment.
Two suggestions: Allure sensuelle and Fourreau Noir. Allure sensuelle for it’s sexyness, and Forreau Noir for the lavander and the memory of her father. It reminds me of my grandfather, the damp smell of lavender and shaving foam in the hallway after he had his bath. Love it.
Tango and perfume,what a wonderful combination !
There are a lot of good recs.already so I’d oly like to add three stunning roses that are poised,dark and sad / melancholic to me:Lyric Men by Amouage,Rossy de Palma by Etat Libre D’Orange and Voleur de Roses by L’Artisan Parfumeur,good luck.Lorena.
I’m a bit late for this, but I second roses for tango, Rossy de Polma, olé:-)
or, sticking with ELDO: Jasmin et cigarettes
The first 2 which popped into my mind when I read the description were Andy Tauer’s Maroc pour Elle and Incense Rose. Sublimely beautiful, rich but not too rich.
Another perfume that I think could be perfect for you is Frederic Malle’s Une Fleur de Cassie. Simultaneously refined and dirty, I find it gorgeously perfect.
Another one which is warm is L’Artisan’s Timbuktu. Try it on your skin to check if it is too much for you. (sometimes I find it a bit too much, but other times, just right).
And finally, another vote for Paestum Rose. It is a very, very dry, resinous and smoky rose (my signature scent, as a matter of fact).
Good luck! Would love to know what you find when you test all these suggestions!
Oh! And why not give CB I Hate Perfume a try?
The ones that come to mind are Patchoulli Empire and (gasp!) Musk.
Maybe Real Patchouly from Bois 1920, Mona di Orio (Nuit Noir, Lux, Carnation), Vero Kern’s Onda?
Lauren…
Shalimar by Guerlain!
Try it.
For mysterious evening!
Somebody up there mentioned Bandit, which is a thread that weaves through my suggestion: Jolie Madame. Vintage if you can get it, because it has a deeper darker heft, though I like the current version, too. Violets over leather…kind of a North American take on the tango, if you will–so nice, but ready to crack the whip as necessary. Not smoldering up front, but thoroughly in all other layers.
Violets over leather? I wonder if I can replicate that with some Bandit or Cuir de Russie and my Violeta di Parma. It sounds intriguing.
Try Annick Goutal’s Sables. It’s in the oriental class of perfumes, and to me, smells like Shalimar exhaling frankincense.
I wore it for dancing, because it melds with the body scent easily, and does not fight with odors of wine, liquor, cigarette smoke, etc.
When applied sparingly, the sillage is delicate. When you warm up, it blossoms close to your skin. It lasts, and it’s subtle.
definately shalimar
borneo by lutens
cuir de lancome
for workouts…i like to use eau premiere, jardin sur le nil and kelly caleche….the latter two cool the heat and the eau premiere just blends. the top 3 are all sexy scents!!!
my personal top 5
shalimar
bandit
cabaret
datura blanche by keiko mecheri
knowing estee lauder