Perfume coverage in the September issues of Allure, Vogue, W, GQ & Details, and as always, please comment on any fragrance coverage you've seen in other fashion & beauty magazines lately:
Allure
Cover: Amanda Seyfried.
Scent strips: Donna Karan Cashmere Mist Luxe Edition, Juicy Couture, Jessica Simpson Fancy Love.
Editorial coverage: The Beauty Reporter section includes Marc Jacobs Lola as one of the "Editor's Favorites" (p. 68), "High Notes" features a short interview with Justin Timberlake, the face of Givenchy Play (his first cologne was Polo; p. 74). "Designer Scents" is one page on the D&G Anthology (p. 78).
Vogue
Cover: Charlize Theron.
Scent strips: D&G 3 L’Imperatrice & 18 La Lune, Marc Jacobs Lola, Elizabeth Arden Pretty, Dior J’adore & J’adore Cologne Florale, Michael Kors Very Hollywood.
Editorial coverage: Obit for Robert Isabell, florist, event organizer, and creator of Perfumes Isabell (p. 260), and Lily of the Valley Girls, a mini-article on the upcoming release of Diorissimo Eau de Parfum (p. 424).
W
Cover: Kate Moss.
Scent strips: None.
Editorial coverage: Remembrances: Flower King is an article on the sudden death of Robert Isabell (p. 144). Rethinking Scent ("NEW FRAGRANCES BLEND FAMILIAR INGREDIENTS IN WAYS THAT MAY ALTER THEIR REPUTATIONS FOREVER") includes reviews of Tom Ford White Musk Collection, Issey Miyake A Scent by Issey Miyake and Strange Invisible Perfumes Fire and Cream (p. 198).
GQ
Scent strips: Ralph Lauren Polo Black Ralph, Armani Code for Men, Givenchy Play and Lacoste Challenge.
Editorial coverage: None.
Details
Scent strips: Ralph Lauren Polo Blue, Armani Code for Men, Ermenegildo Zegna Zegna Colonia, Givenchy Play, D&G 1 Le Bateleur and 6 L’Amoureux (six-page pull-out/back cover).
Editorial coverage: Models and Bottles is an article about the D&G Fragrance Anthology. “We don’t love the word ‘unisex’,” Gabbana says. “It’s very similar to admitting to not having a personality.” (p. 144).
(many thanks to Kevin, who is responsible for all the above except Allure!)
When I read about Robert Isabell’s passing, it brought to mind that years ago, I had several of his fragrances and loved them. Then they completely disappeared from the market and I never heard another thing about him until now.
I never got to try any of them…for anyone who’s interested, this is from a 1996 article in Crains:
Mr. Bronfman, 36, has teamed with Robert Isabell – society florist cum party planner – to form Perfumes Isabell. The company eschews chemical concoctions for all-natural flower essences that are based on light scents developed by the floral king himself.
At a time when small fragrance firms – even those that have endured for years – are cowing under the might of giants like Unilever and Procter & Gamble that dominate the industry, Mr. Bronfman is betting that his niche approach will quietly rock the industry.
[…]
The company is introducing not just one, but five scents at once. And instead of using sexy models to sell the line, Perfumes Isabell is relying on pure flower power. The company’s $10 million print advertising campaign, featuring the striking photography of Irving Penn, is running in virtually every glossy, upscale magazine.
While Perfumes Isabell is sold at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus, the ads most visibly promote flowers and 1-800-Isabell, the company’s ambitious direct marketing arm.
“It’s very refreshing in an industry that needs a jolt,” says Peggy Breeze, fragrance buyer for Neiman Marcus. “It didn’t cross their minds to do what everyone else does, because they don’t know what everyone else does.”
The Perfumes Isabell scents are in line with the light, natural direction in which the industry is headed, says Annette Green, executive director of the Fragrance Foundation. She notes that many famous lines such as Coco Chanel are introducing lighter formulations to suit more women’s tastes.
That one one celebrity perfume line with at some internal logic, as Mr. Isabell had been a (wedding) florist for the famous…
I wore Ceylon when I was 15-17 (interchanging with Michael Kors), and I had about 1/10 of my bottle left which I have not had the heart to use up since college, its been sitting in my nightstand since-untouched. Last week, in a frivolous spending spree, I decided to reclaim my youth and overspent on another full bottle – which is now sitting in my fridge. I spritzed myself with the open bottle for the first time in a very long time and it is still amazing – vibrant, uncommonly pretty, on edge, and awkwardly graceful. I love this stuff and because I fear I will run out of it again in this life time, my OCD will make me buy another bottle to store for my retirement days.
Robin I do remember the ads. Large glossy photos of whatever flower was based in each fragrance. They were all very lovely but one in particular was spicier than the others–can’t remember the name, but it was my favorite. I will have to look and see if I still have a bottle among my archived perfumes.
Looked around a bit, but the usual perfume ad sites don’t seem to have any of the ads, too bad.
I remember the line as well – I worked near Saks in NYC when it was launched. The scents were: Savanna (a white floral), Ceylon (a spicy oriental), Mandarin (a ‘dark’ citrus with a spicy edge), Calla (floral, based on the Calla lily), and Paperwhites.
Oddly enough (I say this only because I prefer lighter, citrus scents), Ceylon was my favorite. But the collection as a whole, was beautifully done.
Thanks for the memory jolt. Although they were all nice, Ceylon was also my favorite too.
Filomena, when you said ‘spicier’, I immediately knew Ceylon was the one you admired too!
Another thing I recall about the line was that the juice itself was almost like an oil and although don’t remember the concentration (EDT, EDP, etc), these fragrances were not for the timid because the sillage was big and the scents themselves were quite tenacious! Two spritzes, max and you were set for 24 hours! You could actually smell them radiating off your skin even after a shower!
Yes you are right! The sillage was tremendous. When I wore any of them, I never had to refresh during the day. And the fragrance lingered on whatever I had been wearing.
I am very sad that this line is long gone. I still have my Savanna (perfume spray and body lotion)….ten years ago it was a favorite of my own “Mr. Big”–he loved that scent on me (and consequently, on him sometimes)….oh, the memories. I will never be able to wear it again, but I can’t get rid of it either.
I still have my bottle of Ceylon, and although the top notes have turned a bit, it dries down pretty nicely still – a bit more mature, but I’m glad I kept it. I remember when those came out I was dying for one – I had to practically force myself to choose one because I knew they were special.
I see a few bottles online now and again, but rarely the Ceylon.
You’ve missed one: Attar, the only one of his scents I ever tried (in a pochette in a magazine ad), a dark rose oriental. It was beautiful, and so were the bottles, hard-edged cylinders made out of borosilicate glass, the same glass used for telescope lenses and laboratory equipment. You can still buy some of his scents online but most of them are pretty pricey.
There’s going to be a Diorissimo Eau de Parfum? I wonder what it will be like. Hopefully not reformulated beyond all recognition!
I am not terribly hopeful. Would love to have a bottle of the vintage Esprit de Parfum myself.
I remember perfumes Isabell. My favorite was Calla. I always wondered why it was not seen in the stores anymore. I remember tearing the strips out of my mom’s W magazines. Thanks for the memories Robin.
Has anyone come across a Natori scent strip? No Saks near hear. In Style had an ad, but alas no strip! It did have one for Lola…I am NOT a fan…
Oh, no Saks near HERE rather (hate typos!)
No worries! But have not seen a Natori scent strip, sorry.
Isabell fans, I have good news… if you promise not to buy everything up before I have a chance to restock!
http://isabell.com.
Wonder who owns the name now?
Hi Robin (& All),
I know this is coming in late, but I wanted to share this – Funny I was revisiting my favorite Isabell scent (Mandarin) just recently when I read that Mr Isabell had died. I remember when it was first introduced – so different from anything else out there!
I had a nice conversation with an SA at Isabell and learned some info to share. The perfume company and Mr. Isabell parted ways sometime back in 2000 although she said he continued to use the products. Isabell.com connects you directly with the manufacturer (the prices are about the same as when the products were first introduced). The stock is currently very low, but they do continue to produce. She said to check back from time to time to see when something might become available.
Oh thanks, that’s very helpful!
I was saddened by Robert Isabell’s death as well – I loved his fragrances and he was a visionary of floral design. I do some of that myself, and he was an inspiration to me.
I saw one of his fragrances on eBay (I think) but it was the price of a decent secondhand car, so no go. 🙁
See the link above…looks like somebody or another bought the license. They’re kind of suspiciously cheap though.
I bought the coffret set last year from the site, and it was fine.
Good to know, thanks!
Editorial coverage in September issue of Conde Nast Traveler – article that matches scents with travel destinations.
Japan – Oyedo
Morocco – Byredo Bal d’Afrique
France – Dans Tes Bras
Bermuda – Island Michael Kors Bermuda
Greece – Santorini by Antica Farmacista
Egypt – Hermes Jardin sur le Nil
Panama – Fleur de Liane
Russia – Cuir de Russie
Nice, thanks!
Marie Claire covered Marc Jacobs Lola, I think, but oddly enough, I can’t find the article. Did find this one: http://www.marieclaire.com/hair-beauty/trends/articles/perfume-attraction-smell-fragrance?click=pp. I think they covered some Narcisso, but… wow, I have SUCH a bad memory. I was just reading about this last night.
Weird article, thanks!
Aedes de Venustas (the store, not the perfume) had a nice shout-out in this month’s Vogue. I think a model was talking about her favorite stores or something like that. I’ll look it up when I get home!
Oh, good for Aedes!