Today we're helping Jan, who has a very specific request. She's been using Christian Dior's Eau de Dior Coloressence Energisante, which has now been discontinued. She wants to find a similar scent, "...one that is fresh and yet not completely green with floral notes, has enough staying power for the entire workday, unobtrusive and not overpowering but still there for me when I need it to perk me up and make me feel fabulous". She doesn't have a price limit, and she has good access to perfume stores.
Here is what we know about Jan: she's in her 30s, lives in London, and likes "classic with a twist", "stuff that is off-mainstream but not necessarily extremely niche". Her interests include theater, fruit picking, food, traveling and photography.
Jan likes fresh and floral perfumes. Her favorites are "the ones that don't smell like perfumes at all but smell like I've had a good wash with some lovely smelling soap". Her current favorite is Prada Infusion d'Iris; in the past she has also worn Cacharel Noa and LouLou, Lancome Tresor and Chanel Allure.
Jan dislikes marine scents or overly fruity scents, and she doesn't usually like "really musky, spicy scents". Here are a few of the fragrances she tried while looking for a replacement for the Energisante: Kenzo Eau de Fleur de Thé (nice on a card, but on skin was like cloying men's aftershave), L'Occitane Green Tea with Mint (nice, but too much like any standard green tea fragrance, and same went for Bvlgari's Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert), L'Occitane Peach Blossom (nice but too like air freshener), Jill Sander Style Pastels (she liked one of them, possibly the pink, but it didn't have enough staying power), Bvlgari Omnia Green Jade (overpowering and headache-inducing).
What say you?
Note: image is Post Box: Old post box in San Gimignano (Italy) [cropped] by Luca Zappa at flickr; some rights reserved.
First thoughts… Chanel Bois de Isles, Osmanthe Yunnan
and Tiempe Passate
2nd Osmanthe Yunnan (though on me it’s very citrusy, so you must like that).
I’d highly recommend PdN Eau d’Ete. It’s clean, fresh, uplifting and has shockingly good lasting power on my skin.
Since we are the same age, and into the same things, and you are a fellow London perfumista…..I highly recommend visiting Ormonde Jayne’s store in the Arcade off Old Bond Street. I’m thinking in particular that you would appreciate Frangipani, a crisp, fresh and easy going summer scent (Robin’s review on this site is excellent). You might also give Osmanthus and Sampaquita a try too. They are quite fresh and light.
All of Ormonde Jayne’s scents are classics with a twist – and this is a niche brand with the style and character of a grand perfume house. You can purchase a sample set online for about £35. But I recommend visiting the shop in person. The SA will give you a ‘tour’ through the line which is fun and informative. They’re very geenrous with their samples too – it’s not a problem to sniff them all, narrow it down to 2 or 3 you like, and ask for samples to properly decide over a few days testing.
Have fun! Let us know what you pick!
Big second for trying ormonde jayne florals. i think Osmanthus… but frangipani is my favorite. also I think heeley’s ophelia is also a good choice as is l’artisan chasses au papillion extreme, 06130 nLYS and Pafrums de nicolai juste un reve.If you really LOVE citrus and only want a citrus …Lartisan Mandarine and 01630 Yuzu rouge are lovely without being too ‘orangey’
I also agree with the Ormond Jayne suggestion. There’s hardly a bad scent in the line.
Another suggestion is PG Iris Taizo, Guerlain Mandarin Basilic or L’Artisian Annais Fizz. Happy sniffing!
I like Guerlain’s Acqua Allegoria Laurier Reglisse.
I think that one’s outstanding too. You reminded me to get a bottle!
A few thoughts: AG Le Chevrefeuille, a light floral with a sharpish lemony opening; Calypso Chevrefeuille, a green/floral honeysuckle blended w/orange blossom; Guerlain AA Tiare Mimosa (the mimosa is light and fresh in this one); or my favorite MetB #3, although this might be too overpowering…it’s a great blend of sharp and aromatic greens with cedar. Lightly applied, it might work. Also, if Jan hasn’t tried the l’AP line, most of those seem to me to be classic w/a twist rather than very nichey, and there are so many scents to choose from there.
I’ll second Calypso Chev as a nice bright green floral, and also the AG Chev, which is like a nice petitgrain cologne.
I think Annick Goutal is a good line for Jan to explore…plenty of scents that are fresh and/or floral, with enough unique to set a number of them apart, and quality can be relied upon.
Thinking also from the AG line: Petit Cherie (green & floral), Mandragore (could capture what Jan liked about the green tea scents, but has spice and other elements to take it away from the realm of what led to “meh”), and maybe even an Eau de Hadrian (more “cologne-y”)?
Seconding the Mandragore. A great perk-up scent that is beautiful and different with a refreshingly bitter anisic edge but very transparent. I’ve been wearing it today in the 105 degree Texas heat and it’s been just the thing!
Try the new Gucci Flora.
Gucci Flora popped into my head immediately also, but maybe it’s therefore a little too obvious! Also perhaps Acqua di Gio by Armani (though perhaps a little aquatic)?
Hermes Caleche Eau Delicate smells just like a good wash with an expensive / fresh smelling soap.
Can be found at online perfume sites at a great discount.
Bergere just gave me samples of Balmain’s Vent Vert and Ivoire, which may up your alley–Vent Vert is nice and green, and Ivoire smells good and soapy. Another Bergere sample that might also work for you is Hermes’ Jardin de Nils. It seems really fresh and bright. So if any of these work for you, thank Bergere, not me.
Second the Ivoire. When I first bought it – unsniffed – I thought it was a too-soapy variation on Chanel No. 19, but it has been growing on me, particularly in the recent warm, humid weather.
I’ll second Hermes Jardin sur le Nil, which is my new go-to green floral quasi cologne – really nice stuff. And also the Chanel No 19 rec, which is just perfect, sophisticated, not too strong, very fresh, green, etc. I wear it on perfect summer days – makes me think of fresh sweet meadow.
First thoughts: L’Artisan The Pour en Ete. But it would help to know the notes of the Coloressence Energisante as I’ve never smelled it.
Is it a fresh citrus floral? In which case she should also try Kenzo Fleur de Magnolia and Issey Reflects d’une Goutte. Or does it smell green and soapy? Then perhaps Chanel No. 19, Donna Karan Cashmere Mist or Hermes Eau de Gentiane Blanche. Sorry that’s quite a big list! I think Jan should go to a department store and try some L’Artisans and some Jo Malone, as they do light and fresh very well.
Yes, “lovely soap” is a pretty good description of lots of the Jo Malone line. She might especially want to try the new Lime/Cedar one (sorry, can’t remember the exact name right now, but they’ll know). It’s a bit more unusual than the others and very nice.
Oh, and sorry, meant to give a big second to L’Artisan The pour ete. Sounds like just the thing you’re looking for.
I second the PdN Eau d’Ete, lovely, great lasting power. I’d also suggest perhaps Thierry Mugler cologne or Roger and Gallet’s Bouquet Imperiale? Both can be found for a song on the ‘bay and the R & G is fits the “smells like a really nice soap” requirement.
I’ll third the PdN Eau d’Ete which is just great! It is so soft, yet clean, crisp too, and fresh! I’ll add then the PdN Temps d’une Fete which is more of a developed fresh green floral with a wonderful sweet meadow/hay accord – really nice stuff a la Chanel 19.
I like Temps Un Fete, too — it’s more floral than d’Ete. Very nice. And it’s one of those frags that really grow on you. I wonder if Eau du Lude would be a good rec? It’s really good, too; I would say that it falls into the “big floral” category, but it’s not indolic on me at all. Very similar to the faaar more expensive Un Coeur en Mai (also by Nicolai, for MDCI; this version is slightly more orange and spice– but just slight). It is more floral and stronger than what I’d consider to be a “clean skin, like after a good shower with a great soap” sort of smell, but it’s really good. So if you want something further along the floral line, definitely consider Eau du Lude or Temps un Fete.
Plus, these PdNs are a steal for the quality.
Yes – I would say that Odalisque and Le Temps d’une Fete (one of my All Time Favorites – wore it yesterday!) are green and fresh. I don’t find them to smell like I bathed in wonderful soap, though. I really can’t recommend Fete enough – it is soooooo gorgeous, and just makes me happy.
Hey, if we’re just giving out PdN Temps d’une Fete love, then include me in the crew…might be a *tad* too much on the white flower oil–I don’t know the Dior she liked– but if that doesn’t bother Jan, than I think it’s a keeper.
Love Le Temps d’Une Fete!!
These two sound fantastic. They are going on MY test list. Thanks!
Although marketed as a “men’s” fragrance, Laura Tonatto’s Albi is fresh, citrusy, long-lasting, good clean fun!….you might give it a try if you can find it in London.
Good Luck!
Here is an unusual rec – Lancome (La Collection’s) Climat edp. I think this is just really different and unique in the quasi white flowers, “green”, scents. It has a very light , extremely well blended floral accord with light aldehydes and civet. It is really different – it makes me think of white shirts, wine and cheese picnics, summer in California in San Simeon…. It sounds nuts, but it is like an aldehyde skin scent. Very classy and you won’t smell yourself coming or going as it is not too common.
Ann! I have Climat on right now. Have been test driving it on and off for a couple of days, and am figuring out the level of my pleasure.
I had a micro mini of Climat from one of those vintage “Perfumes of Paris” boxes, but I am getting much more depth out of this new re-edition version I have.
It is not something I would wear very often, but I think it is really neat. I also noticed when I was first getting to know it, that a little dab performs better (it seems to breathe) than a regular dose, which seemed a bit tight. I have one of the little tiny Collection bottles for steal online. Just enough to enjoy myself!
That’s the very one I have.
Very happy with my set of 4.
Another thought is Envy by Gucci; opens green, with a bright floral core that is soft and fresh, uplifting yet unobtrusive. When I sampled it, my first thought was “great office fragrance”. There are some softer florals you could try: Iroaz by Lostmarc’h, a gentle rose with a hay note (it seems to me). In a classic direction, Le Dix by Balenciaga is nice, a sophistocated powdery violet that is ladylike but also crisp and professional (I kind of feel like a 1940s news editor dame wearing it). I second the recommendation for the Ormonde Jayne line, lots of nice tropical florals; another in that style is Manoumalia by Les nez. L’Artisan also has some soft florals, Mimosa pour moi and Verte violette; either of those is not aggressive, but you may want more staying power. Also try Odalisque by Parfums de Nicolai. Good luck!
Ohh, agree w/the Envy, Le Dix, and Odalisque. All 3 are lovely, and very office-friendly.
I was going to suggest Envy too! I just picked up a small bottle – thank God they offer both sizes – and am very pleased. Green with a touch of floral and citrus, though the lasting power isn’t all-day. For that I’d say Chanel No 19 EDP or parfum. I also like The Pour un Ete like some others have suggested, but I get sick of it about mid-season – I prefer Envy.
I second the Verte Violette and Mimosa Pour Moi (both L’Artisan), and the Ormonde Jayne line.
Ohh, two more, now that I looked up the notes: Stephanie de Saint-Aignan’s Li Altarelli or Andy Tauer’s Reverie au Jardin. Both have a bit of citrus, galbanum, and lavendar; the LA has light (not loud!) marine notes, where the RaJ has fir balsam, incense, vanilla and woods.
second (? ) Reverie, suggest the “euphorising” Kenzoki line, escale à Portofino , and maybe try “the unicorn spell” (LesNez, is very green, works well on hot days), bahiana (maître parfumeur & gantier, just a thought, haven’t tried it for a long time)
I wouldn’t call Prada Infusion especially floral, Jan, and I see that it’s your fave scent at the moment, and that you’re looking for something fresh. Please try to find yourself a sample of Le Labo Bergamote 22 and give it a spin. It is crisp, clean, ultra-fresh, and the staying power is very good. I think you might love it.
In addition to the already mentioned AG Chevrefeuille, I always get a good pick me up/perk me up from AG’s Camille, a gorgeous green + a smidge of floral and also from Mandragore. They’re maybe not brilliant in terms of staying power but as there’s a Mandragore edp maybe that’s better in that dept. And another vote for Envy and for Kelly Caleche Eau Delicate…been having my way with a discounted bottle of that this summer…
Zapping by to throw in some suggestions which may already have been made:
Mugler Cologne; Versace Versense; PdN Eau du Lude or Cologne Sologne; L’Artisan L’Eau de L’Artisan; Geranium pour Monsieur; Miller Harris Geranium Bourbon (more astringent than flowery); Eau de Givenchy; Eau de Cartier (violet leaves + incense on my skin, no green; but v refreshing, and phenomenal staying power for an eau); Panthere Eau Legere; Penhaligon’s Castile; Prada Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger (both v soapy on me)
I was going to suggest the Prada, too, it was too soapy on me but if she likes smelling freshly washed that would do the trick.
I absolutely second the Eau de Cartier! It might just have everything you want, Jan. I love it!
Jan, listen to T. She’s a pro at scenting ppl.
I too thought of Eau de Cartier (tho lately, I can’t seem to smell the drydown…?) and Versace Versence. As a lover of fresh florals, Versence grabbed me at first sniff, but for some reason, didn’t become an HG. Not sure why. And I keep hearing about Panthere and wondering about this one, too.
What about Jo Malone White Jasmine & Mint? I find it quite fresh, especially the herbal opening. Jo Malone Vetyver is fresh and soapy, though it does have nutmeg which you might find too spicy. To me, it’s a “fresh” scent.
I wonder, too, if you might like Very Irresistible by Givenchy. While it has a hint of fruit in the opening, that disappears fast and a subdued rosy floral takes its place. There is a little spiciness later on, too, but it’s a minor note and it not foody.
No price range has been set, so if you are willing to lay out for the oft-discussed large bottle a Chanel Les Exclusif comes in, I’d toss in a vote for Bel Respiro. So green, but not overly so because it is cut with galbanum. Beautiful drydown…not a huge change, but the realm of creamy floral that comes out seems like it would play well into the desire for “green floral.” In other word, starts with a gorgeous somewhat bracing green breath, slowly adds in the light element of creamy floral.
I have nothing as I seem to be looking for the same thing.
She did say, “Fresh and not COMPLETELY green.”
Hi everyone,
This is Jan. Thank you all for your suggestions. You’ve given me loads to consider and some of the scents sound so lovely I am really looking forward to smelling them!
You’ll have to tell us what the verdict is! Happy smelling!
1. “Antico Caruso” by Profumum. It’s a creamy, slightly vinyl-smelling kind of scent that reminds me of almond shaving soap and water. While I’d guess guys who ever went to a barber’s shop with Grandpa would be drawn to this, it’s a very unisex scent without being aquatic. The smell of good soap without the clinical scent of disinfectant usually in “clean” scents.
2. “Vivara” by Pucci. While mentioned that she doesn’t care for aquatics and some classify “Vivara” as aquatic, I wouldn’t say it’s really so; it’s more of a “tweedy” green smell that reminds me of salt and soap. It’s unusual and fairly available.
3. “Yria” by Yves Rocher. Affordable and like a brisker version of “Allure”.
4. “Naturelle” by Yves Rocher. Salty soap, again. With some subtle dry-grass notes woven throughout.
Hi Jan, have you tried diorella? It’s such a lovely fresh scent with top notes of citrus & greens. As it dries down, the jasmine becomes particularly apparent (on me anyway) but other floral notes included are rose & carnation. I find this such a refreshing scent for summer although i’ve been wearing it during our aussie winter to remind me of the sun. I notice that you have tried cacharel noa, have you sampled anais anais? Lovely floral.
There have been lots of wonderful recommendations. In addition to the ones I agreed with above :-), these came to mind:
L’Eau d’Italie Magnolia Romana – a gorgeous green floral with a slight aquatic touch (but I wouldn’t call it marine).
Henry Dunay Sabi – A shimmering green floral blend with amazing lasting power. It’s uncommonly gorgeous, to my nose!
Etro Dianthus – Highly recommended if you’re interested in a very slightly spicy, fresh carnation blend.
dear jan, try acqua allegoria guerlain cherry blossom, has hints of soap, but with some flowery 1950’s undertones. is seems to my recollection to be like the dior eau energisante!
the other one to try is eau de guerlain a 1960’s colourful, fresh but staying eau toilette for the summer!
Diorella symbolizes the spirit of freedom of the 1970’s. This fresh, floral-chypre is gentle thanks to the floral notes which dominate the composition. Top notes are Sicilian lime and basil; honeysuckle and peach are in perfume’s heart, while vetiver and oak moss are in the base. The nose behind this fragrance is Edmond Roudnitska.
I couldn’t think of anything yesterday, but I’m wearing Estee Lauder Bali Dream today, and I think you might like it. It’s more of a pink floral than green, but fresh & slightly transparant. It’s not overpowering, but the lasting power is good. I always find myself sniffing my wrists when I wear it. It’s a travel retail exclusive (so everyone isn’t wearing it!), but I’ve found it at several discount shops lately.
Notes are magnolia, ginger, orchid leaves, moon orchid, lily of the valley, pepper, ylang ylang, cassia, jasmine, gardenia, tagete, plum, tuberose, cedar, vanilla, coconut, Haitian vetiver, temple wood.
How ’bout Santa Maria Novella Eva ? OK so it isn’t floral, but it is meets the criteria of fresh, unique and unobtrusive with excellent “perkability” (my suggestion for a new fragrance descriptor).
I also second (or third) the Annick Goutal suggestions, especially Eau de Camille and for something more citrus than floral, but maybe worth a try – Eau de Sud.
Happy exploring – and do tell us what you try and what you settle on.
Am I too late for a suggestion? How about Cristalle de Chanel?