When I first dabbed Dianne Brill Eau de Parfum on my skin, I thought, this really reminds me of something. I tore to my perfume cabinet and looked at the bottles. What could it be? Something insistently spicy and a little astringent. Something with tobacco, maybe, and I definitely smelled coriander. I sniffed Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque and Chergui and dismissed them. L'Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two? No. Then I picked up a decant and lit on the answer: Kenzo Jungle L'Eléphant. Dianne Brill is nearly a dead ringer for L'Eléphant.
According to Chandler Burr's review in the New York Times, Dianne Brill worked closely with Valérie Garnuch in developing the Dianne Brill fragrance. She wanted the fragrance to reflect the smell of an old piece of leather, a discontinued Kiehl's body oil, wood from a construction site, sticky figs, a cigar box, and nutmeg (which Brill said reminded her of the smell of sweaty bodies at a disco in Mustique). Dianne Brill Eau de Parfum debuted in September 2008.
What I smell is an aggressively spicy-woody scent with an acidic chemical note that cuts through it. Dried fruit opens the fragrance, but it quickly disappears — or is plowed under — as a stampede of coriander, cinnamon, and cloves takes over. It's not completely a gourmand fragrance. I do smell the construction site wood that Brill references. I think it's pressure treated, the kind of wood that's shot through with chemicals to keep it from rotting. And a boozy tobacco note is threaded through the fragrance, too. Hours later, the sharp chemical note wears out and the dried figs reappear, settling in with a vanilla, wood, and spicy warmth.
I've been intrigued with Dianne Brill since I read her book, Boobs, Boys, and High Heels. I don't remember a lot of specifics from the book, except that if you aren't bone thin, embrace it, and wear a rubber dress from time to time. Without industrial strength Spanx I'm getting nowhere near a rubber dress, but I love Brill's attitude. The Dianne Brill fragrance has a lot of attitude, too, but not the attitude I'd expect. If someone asked me to guess the sort of fragrance she'd design, I'd say it would be the scent of old-fashioned make-up with a vodka tonic and nylon accord. I never would have expected all the globe-trotting spice and wood and tobacco. For the unexpectedness of her fragrance, I admire Dianne Brill.
But, it isn't entirely original. Kenzo Jungle L'Eléphant, after all, came out twelve years earlier, pioneering a dry, assertive spice scent with slashing astringent accord. With L'Eléphant, the acrid note mimics the dry African savannah and seems to make sense. Chandler Burr translates the same note in Dianne Brill as the chemical scent of amyl nitrite poppers that were popular during Brill's heyday in the 1980s. But amyl nitrite and coriander? I don't get it.
Both Dianne Brill and L'Eléphant are insistent enough that it takes a strong personality and a light application of scent to make sure that you rather than your perfume shows up for cocktails first. For many people, me included, it may be easier to appreciate Dianne Brill as an interesting, rather than wearable, fragrance. That's not bad — in fact, it's refreshing. But that means that for me a small decant is plenty.
When it comes down to it, I do slightly prefer Dianne Brill to L'Eléphant for Dianne Brill's rounded fruit opening and finish. Still, Kenzo Jungle L'Eléphant is half the price online, and for the frequency that I'd wear it, L'Eléphant is more than good enough for me.
Dianne Brill Eau de Parfum is available at Beautyhabit for $96 for 50 ml packaged in an adorable cigar box. It's also available in bath and shower milk and in Eau de Parfum body cream.
when I saw the new fragrance post for this, I was put off at first.
But then I read when she described each note she wanted, I was interested.
I wanted to try Elephant and Tiger. I'll try this too.
I should have tried it earlier though, maybe I could have worn it when I presented my Savannah project.
I tried this scent a few months ago and I could not tolerate the combination of tobacco, booze and poppers on my skin. I found it cloying and nauseating. Others who smelled it on me agreed that it did not suit me. But at least one other person in our little sniffing party that day brought out a completely different vibe. Vanilla and spice softened that strange chemical note enough to make it wearable, though still a bit weird.
I've only smelled L'Elephant one time, but I remember having a simlar reaction to it. If I recall correctly, there was an off-putting synthetic note that sent me to the sink to scrub it.
So what DID you wear? I remember people suggesting possibilities several days ago. And did your project report go well?
Ouarzazate
I think it turned out pretty good, but it was a group project and I ended up doing the entire thing by myself. But the end result was good and I smelled good.
Hi Angela,
Glad to see a review of this fragrance here.
I am one who personally loves this perfume. Unfortunately, my skin just eats it up and it disappears on me in under 2 hours.
Even though I don't wear it often, I still like to have it in my collection because it's different enough to warrant a spot there.
My only complaint is the packaging. Yes, the cigar box concept is cute except in this case, it's very cheaply done. Same goes for the bottle. But obviously it didn't stop me from purchasing it.
~Daw
The Savannah Project? Sounds fascinating! Just for the Savannah connection you should definitely try the Kenzo Jungles.
That's a great fragrance for honing in concentration. I bet you did smell great.
Your taste as I remember it is so elegant that I'm not surprised that Dianne Brill and L'Elephant bombed on you. Neither reacts very well to my skin, either, but I like having them around to sniff once in a while, more as “conceptual” fragrances.
Wow, your skin must be able to eat anything! NASA should look into it. Have you tried L'Elephant?
Haven't tried l'Elephant yet but I am definitely interested in it now after about it in your review.
No…don't call NASA. ;0
What aspect of the Savannah were you approaching? (I grew up in the Sahel region of Cameroon.) I am loving the new mini bottle of Kenzo Tigre I picked up, I definitely recommend.
It was on ecosystems. My group chose tropical grasslands.
I talked about the climate, the role of fire, the effects of overgrazing and then plants and animals and their adaptations.
I'll put the Jungle Kenzos at the top of my to-try list
I swear, NST has the most fascinating readership!
The hay scent in L'Elephant should be right up your alley, then.
Sounds really interesting, I wonder how big the chances are of anyone carrying it in these parts. I must try Jungle Elephant too, I don't think I ever had.
A good rubber dress kind of does the same job that Spanx do – that's part of the beauty of rubber… I love that Dianne Brill quote, too!
Ahhh, now I understand why I had to remove this stuff from my skin immediately!!
Couldn't stand L'elephant either. At least it makes sense now!
Jungle l'elephant is extremely popular in Eastern Europe, one of the top three I smell in the streets here in Poland, especially in winter: Rush, Addict, and l'elephant. All very potent and maybe apart from Addict, very original. I like all of them so I am glad Dianne took her inspiration from sth worthy but pity she did it so literally
a summer “flanker” to l'elephant with less clove would be so welcome..this is apparently not it.
I love this thing, and I love Elephant too. I think I'm the person who inflicted it on mbanderson up there … on my skin, they smell not that much alike — I really bring out the spices in Elephant (and sometimes it's WAY too sweet) whereas Brill is dry and strange on me. But if I recall correctly, WAY TOO SWEET was where Brill went wrong on my helpless vic– I mean, my perfume friends. Huh. Maybe I'll go try them again… don't you think every dinner with the family should feature Elephant on one arm and Dianne Brill on the other? No?
Interesting, and not what I would have expected. Thanks for cluing us in.
So the rubber is thick enough not to show every bump? Hmm…
Jungle L'Elephant is definitely worth trying, it smells so unlike everything else on the market (except Dianne Brill!).
It's definitely insistent! If that chemical hit in Dianne Brill doesn't agree with you, you're out of luck.
How interesting that L'Elephant is so popular! I never would have guessed.
I'm guessing that Brill didn't know anything about L'Elephant when she gave the nod to her own perfume. I love your idea of a summer version of L'Elephant.
See, I didn't think it was all that sweet at all on me! I love having my decant of L'Elephant, and I've toyed with the idea of ordering a bottle, but I know on me it would be an “around the house” perfume (not that there's anything wrong with that).
With L'Elephant on one arm and Brill on the other, you'd better be serving up some spicy fare…
It surprised me, too. It's nice that Brill broke out of the fruity floral woody musky mold that so many celebrities go for.
Angela, this was lost on me. Interesting how different our noses can be, because here's my own note about Dianne Brill, which is a little exercise in irony, given your comment above! Go figger, eh?
“A sweet, musky, lightly woody fruity floral, neither here nor there, but certainly wearable.”
Great writing, Angela. Keep up the good work.
Gosh, we did smell it differently! On me, it was very assertive and not particularly sweet. Well, vive la difference.
Poppers smell gross.
Does DB smell like amyl nitrate (or for that matter, Jungle L Elephant)?
I have to admit that I don't know what a popper really smells like, but I'm imagining that it smells astringent and chemical, and to me a streak of that almost overdose of something runs through Dianne Brill. That same chemical overdose rides the edge of Jungle L'Elephant. In a way, it makes both fragrance the more remarkable, but for me it also makes them pretty demanding.
Whenever I wear Jungle l'Elephant, what I always end up getting more than anything else, is lots and lots of Old Spice. Does anyone else recognize that, or is it my nose? Its longevity is phenomenal: accidentally sprayed on a fleece sweater once, it lasted forever.
I definitely get spice, but Old Spice? To tell the truth, I should re-smell Old Spice, for old times' sake if nothing else.
Jungle L'Elephant really does last a while! It's potent.
I have L'Elephant and love it. Is Le Tigre any different? Can anyone tell me the differences? thx
Le Tigre has some of the same attitude as L'Elephant, but it's a little more conventional and is more of a sweet, floral vetiver. It's still unusual compared to just about anything on the market. Worth a sniff for sure, if you can find any.
I have always loved Jungle and now need to get my hands on the le tigre. This is getting harder and harder to get. The bottles are so cute too.
There are different gauges, but yes, it smooths very well, especially especially the thicker weights. Lifts and shapes, too, much more flattering on any kind of figure than you'd think, provided the cut is good – and it smells interesting!
I agree–the bottles are adorable.
I never thought I'd say this, but I'd really like to try a rubber dress now!
It's an experience worth trying, even if you turn out not to like it. Rubber really feels like a second skin – there's this odd, heightened sensitivity through rubber compared to any other fabric, you can feel anything that touches your skin wearing rubber almost as much as something touching your bare skin. Very interesting sensation.
I found a place in town that has rubber dresses. I'll have to go up there at lunch and check them out for curiosity, if nothing else
I’ve never even heard of Kenzo Jungle L’Eléphant ? though I think I’ve seen the bottle before.
I remember the launch of Dianne Brill. it was exclusive to Harvey Nichols, they don’t sell it now :/ it wasn’t that long ago either, like a year and a bit.
I’ve never smelled it, but it doesn’t sound very enticing
it sounds like a scent for trashy hookers you might find in vegas who smoke and drink :/
the bottle looks amazing though.
I’ve seen Jungle L’Elephant online for a good price. It really is an interesting and lush perfume.
I have to admit though, it’s been so long since I’ve tried Dianne Brill now that I can’t remember how trashy or fancy it is anymore! I should dig out my sample again.
I came across L’Elepant in a perfume shop in Tenerife whilst on holiday this year so obv I tried it. interesting is one was to put it though I wouldn’t call it lush. sorry Angela I thought it was yuck, it smells like Shalimar which I had on the other arm (edt) that smells kinda yuck too.
but I do like Madagascar by Kenzo, I came across that at the airport, I think it would make a very good summer scent. they have all the old Kenzo’s abroad, but none at home.
I bet Dianne Brill is both trashy and fancy lol. I haven’t tried Dianne though.
L’Elephant is definitely an acquired taste! I guess Shalimar is, too, really. They’re both so particular.
I haven’t tried Madagascar. I’ll definitely be on the lookout for it!
Angela definitley go and try it, I think it perfectly captures how heat smells, along with
usually “warm” scents do make my nose think it is actually temperature warm and I don’t like it. but this (I think) is a warm scent that smells warm. it doesn’t trick my nose in to thinking it is actually warm. it also smells quite dry. I think coconut and vanilla are in the list of notes but don’t hold me to that. I wish I’d have bought it now
it also has a few florals and feels the usual gushiness and niceness found in Kenzo scents, if you know what I mean.
and I’ve just found how to describe L’Elephant. spicy – really really spicy. so many spics in such big quantities.
it’s like tasting raw ginger powder you know out of the tiny jars in the herbs and spices cupboard, L’Elephant is just like that, when your mouth (i)burns(/i) like heck. the senses are so overcome that they go numb for a while and that is how L’Elephant left me.
I can understand that!
have there been any perfumes that made you feel “overwhelmed” Angela?
and there were some things I liked about both L’Elephant and Shalimar.
the tobacco(??) in L’Elephant, but there was like a base to it that wasn’t nice and there was a sharpness to it.
and most of Shalimar, there was just something underlying that really irritated me, I think it was the “dirtiness”.
I can definitely feel overwhelmed by some perfumes. Especially big white florals and some of those gigantic 1980s orientals! The civet in Shalimar can be hard to take, and I understand what you mean by “sharpness”.