Today's poll topic was suggested by Robin (not me, the other Robin, the one who comments under the name Robin). Robin wants to know where in niche she can still find a reasonable amount of bang for her buck, so to speak.
Here are the poll questions:
1. Name one or more niche perfume lines that you think still provide a reasonable value for the money.
To my mind, there are so many wonderful niche perfumes that can still be found for $100 or less (for 50 ml) that it's hard for me to bring myself to pay more. At that price, you could buy almost anything from L'Artisan, Diptyque, Ormonde Jayne or Parfums de Nicolaï, four of my favorite lines. I'd also point out Parfum d'Empire (although the 50 ml bottles are hard to find in the US) and Annick Goutal (although you could argue that they're not niche).
Brands that generally exceed the $100 mark but that make fragrances that I still think are worth the price include Amouage, Frederic Malle, Serge Lutens, Chanel's Les Exclusifs, Comme des Garçons, Eau d'Italie, Parfums DelRae, Le Labo, and the Hermessence collection at Hermès.
2. Name a true bargain in niche perfumery.
Anné Pliska, still $55 for 60 ml Eau de Parfum.
3. Name the perfumes or perfume lines that you think cost too much for what they are.
For me, this would include almost everything else — perfume counters are not the place to go looking for value, generally speaking — but especially those lines that specialize in luxury packaging. Luxury packaging doesn't matter to me, so I don't want to pay a premium for it — if it matters to you, of course you'll feel differently. In this category I'd include lines like Clive Christian, By Kilian and Parfums MDCI.
Your answers?
And by the way, if you have a suggestion for a poll topic, you can still add it to the "complaints and suggestions" poll I posted earlier this month.
Note: image shows ad for Annick Goutal's Eau d'Hadrien, and is not related to anything — just thought it was pretty.
The 175 comments for this article were not properly imported when we moved Now Smell This to a new domain in 3/09, so I’ve copied them below in several large chunks.
Chunk #1:
On December 19, 2008 Katich said:
Fun poll Robin.
I actually have a question to add-
What niche lines are good introductions to the field? As a newbie perfumista I’ve checked out some L’Artisans but haven’t gotten much further. There’s such a dearth out there; any recommendations on good brands to start with to get a feel for the terrain?
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
I’d mostly answer w/ the same brands I listed in my answer to the first question, or at least, those that are easy to get samples of — unless you’re willing to buy from decanters, that means take away Chanel, Hermes, Le Labo, none of which can be sampled easily & cheaply. Have you read the “How to get fragrance samples” article? Link on left column under “Favorite articles”
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On December 19, 2008 Katich said:
I checked that one out on one of my first ventures onto the site and it has helped me immensely. I’m just excited to get more guidance on which brands will give me the most for my 3 to 7 dollars plus shipping for samples.
If anyone knows where to find a sample of the Hermessences Collection, please let me know. I had a dream I tried Osmanthe Yunnan the other night and awoke disappointed.
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Check out The Perfumed Court & The Posh Peasant, both of which carry decants.
The Hermessences are REALLY expensive, and it seems to me what you’re paying for is basically the artistry of Jean Claude Ellena. If that matters to you (and it does to me), they’re worth it. If it doesn’t, you know, you could buy many other things for the price of one bottle from the Hermessence collection.
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On December 19, 2008 lovethescents said:
What about the Perfumed Court?
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On December 19, 2008 Anna_P said:
I can personally vouch for the seller jadore_cannes on ebay. He or she usually stocks manufacturers 4 ml samples (not decants) of the Hermessences and sells them in the cute Hermes envelope in sets of two for $19.99. The last time I checked thier listings, they had quite a few sample sets available and they also stock the 15 ml bottles for a very reasonable price if you fall in love with one and are looking for an upgrade. I’ve purchased a set of Hermessence samples, Serge Lutens samples and minis from this seller before and had a very positive experience. Great customer service, absolutely authentic producs, items were shipped promptly and packed very securely. I’m located in Canada and the shipping was very reasonable but I think this seller offers free shipping if you are in the US. Hope that helps!
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On December 20, 2008 lala412 said:
Thank you for posting that! I get the Hermes newsletter, but have yet to convince myself to actually buy any of their perfumes without trying them first. I had no idea where to find their samples. I will have to check out this person!
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On December 19, 2008 helenviolette said:
I do think there is a lot of good value in nice- agree w/ the L’artisan, PdN, SL- off the top of my head will add Keiko Mercheri and The Different Company to the list…
A true bargain? The Sonoma Scent Studio line- Champagne du Bois is probably the most fun/reach for scent- less than $30 for an ounce I think…
Cost too much? agree with By Killian- Byredo also sounds a bit pricy from what I have heard, but I haven’t tried them- so I am talking out of the wrong side of my mouth…
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On December 19, 2008 helenviolette said:
that would be “niche” rather than “nice”…
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On December 19, 2008 Robin said:
Thank you, thank you and THANK you, Robin! Great timing for this poll, too, with all of us tightening our perfumista belts now that the economy is feeling decidely under the weather.
I have nothing to contribute because I’m a relative rookie (which is why I suggested this as a topic in the first place, dontcha know!) but am eagerly awaiting the seasoned heavyweights out there to weigh in with their ideas. Thanks for yours, too; I’ve learned so much just in the two minutes it took to read them.
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
De nada…and it will be interesting to see how much consensus there is on this topic.
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On December 20, 2008 CB said:
A very nice line is Pacifica- they make spray and solid perfumes, and you can layer the scents. Their candles and soaps are nice, too. Also, from Canada a company called Lush makes some nice scents, not very expensive at all- good for gifting. One line I think is nice way too expensive for what it is: Fresh. Nice scents, but most smell a bit on the soapy side, and they are too expensive for what they are.
Enjoy!
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On December 20, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
I agree on Fresh — they don’t smell as expensive as they are.
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Helenviolette,
TDC can be a real bargain if you buy the refills instead of the metal bottles, and I’d mention that as a plus for FM as well — the small travel refills are not badly priced.
Tthe Byredo prices seem rather ambitious to me too, but I’ve only tried Pulp so I should keep my mouth shut too 🙂
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On December 19, 2008 helenviolette said:
those TDC travel refills are a great deal- I just wish they would let you mix and match 😉
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Yeah, as with the FMs, you have to find people to split the sets w/ you to make it worth it.
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On December 19, 2008 Haunani said:
I agree that these are a good way to go for Malle and TDC. Only problem I had was falling for the fancy atomizer holder from TDC (bought from a re-seller). Oh how I love the feel and look of that solid little aluminum tower! But it didn’t help my budget. :chuckle:
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On December 20, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
They really are beautifully made, I can see why you wanted one.
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On December 19, 2008 damselfly1213 said:
I love this topic – it’s great to get leads on perfume houses. Not sure about the Keiko Mecheri anymore, though…by the time I’d finished my sample and went to buy a full bottle of GdB, the price had increased from $80 to $115. Fancy new bottle, but I’d rather have the old bottle at the old price 🙁
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On December 19, 2008 damselfly1213 said:
Oops, my bad – you can still find the old bottles if you search.
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On December 19, 2008 helenviolette said:
I picked up a bottle for under 70 after discount at The Posh Peasant recently- gift for my perfumista-in training. (I will agree that $115 is a bit ouch)
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
They’re expensive, those KMs. And again, it’s all comes down to how much you esteem the particular brand. To me, most of the KMs are just not worth over $100. I just bought Osmanthus for $40 when Luckyscent had it at half price to clear out the old packaging, and that’s about what I would pay for it — $40-50. And it’s my favorite of the line.
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On December 19, 2008 Haunani said:
I’m wantin’ some Genie des Bois – a woody violet that is simply beautiful on my skin. I also like Umé a lot (have one of the older bottles).
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On December 19, 2008 lovethescents said:
What a wonderful idea and thank you to both Robins! I completely agree with the suggestions, and I would also add the Sage Machados and Ava Luxes.
(Gosh I love Friday polls)
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
I am SO behind on Ava Luxe. I’ve tried either one or none, now I can’t remember…
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On December 19, 2008 lovethescents said:
I’ve only tried Rosa de la luz, which I think you reviewed, as well as Milk. Have several that am dying to try. Shipping from the site is outrageous outside the US, unfortunately! Thank goodness for kind swappers!
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Nope, never reviewed it. Probably announced it as a new fragrance though.
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On December 19, 2008 helenviolette said:
Ava Luxe- good call…Robin- I want you to try Chypre Noir by AL- I would even be happy to send you a samp from my decant(since I know you are hardly bogged down w/ them!)- in the hopes that you might review it- it has such a vintage throw-back feel- impressive…
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
I’m embarrassed to admit that a very kind reader sent me a handful of AL scents, and I hadn’t even smelled them yet when another very kind person asked if I had any AL samples, so I sent them off w/o even smelling them. I’m terrible. If you’d still be willing to take a chance, email me — maybe we can work out a swap after the New Year.
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On December 19, 2008 Ben said:
Any discussion of values in niche perfume has to include Andy Tauer’s fragrances, which, while not cheap, are still a real bargain. A 50ml bottle of L’Air du Desert Marocain can be had for under $80 (though shipping adds to the cost).
These perfumes are also a great place to start exploring niche perfumery, as Andy’s samples are generous and affordable.
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
I thought they were over $100 now? Might depend on where you buy? But either way, would absolutely agree they’re worth it.
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On December 19, 2008 Ben said:
That price is straight off of his website: CHF 85.00 for a bottle of LADDM (some other scents are as high as CHF 90.00), which at the current exchange rate is less than $80 a bottle. Even with CHF 20.00 shipping, it’s just $90.48 for a bottle of L’Air.
Though I agree: it would be a bargain at a much higher price!
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Ah. Then as always, cheaper to buy overseas — here, the savings could potentially be wiped out by customs.
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On December 19, 2008 Tara said:
Hi Happy Friday. It’s snowing in NY we are supposed to get about 12 inches…maybe it will be a white christmas!
As for value I just love Demeter. I know that sometimes the scents are not wearable, but I have to say they are fun and often make me laugh. For about $6 you can get a small splash bottle. For christmas everyone is getting a demeter stocking stuffer of a fragance that reminds me of them. For example, one son is getting play-doh, the other one is getting marshmellow.
As for something more sophisticated, I really like the Eau d’italie line. I love Paestum Rose, Sienne L’Hiver and Bauem du Doge. They are really interesting and although they cost more than $100 for a edt I think their specialness warrants the price.
Have a weekend everyone..
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
The Demeter splash minis are absolutely worth it, agreed! And we agree on Eau d’Italie. Wish they’d do smaller bottles though — and then presumably you could get them for under $100.
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On December 19, 2008 SFLizbeth said:
Hi all, Here’s my take.
1. Diptyque and Parfums de Nicolai. Fragrances I think are worth the price include Amouage, Serge Lutens, CDG, Montale, L’ Artisan.
2. True bargain in niche perfumery: Sonoma Scent Studio and Andy Tauer
3. Overpriced: Clive Christian and Santa Maria Novella
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
On the SMN, I’ve noticed that many of the Italian niche lines seem particularly not worth it to me any more given what’s happened with the dollar — they used to seem reasonable, now they don’t (unlike CC, which never seemed at all reasonable to me). I like the SMN line, and several other Italian lines, but they’re just not worth the prices. I assume you get a much better deal if you buy them in Italy…
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On December 19, 2008 SFLizbeth said:
No doubt!
I overlooked a small italian perfume line called Speziali Fiorentini. Their Fig and Poppy Perfume is $38 US for 50 ml and it lasts quite a long time. It’d definately go under the bargain niche catagory.
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On December 20, 2008 ockeghem said:
Yes, they’re a much better deal if you buy them in Italy. Last year when I was in Florence I went to the SMN shop. I think I paid something like EUR 40 for a bottle of perfume that was running around $90 at Essenza in Seattle. And the rosewater toner was EUR 10 or 15, I think, which was a steal compared to the U.S. price.
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On December 21, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
I love that store! And went there before I cared about perfume, most unfortunately. Would love to visit again now…
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On December 19, 2008 Kim said:
1) I am huge fan of Frederic Malle, and also Serge Lutens. I feel these are reasonable for what you get.
2) not sure about a good bargain
3) Although I do find the Clive Christian X a really beautiful fragrance, I cannot bring myself to spend hundreds of dollars (or euro) on it.
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Luckily for me, I seem to be immune to the allure of the CC brand 😉
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On December 19, 2008 marchlion said:
R, this is such a great topic!
I am ashamed to admit I deal so much in samples rather than bottles that I am occasionally shocked to discover how much something costs, which is funny considering I’m a blogger and thus should be nominally aware. Like, the $400 for Le Labo Poivre blew me away.
Serge used to be less than $100, or $100ish, but no more, huh?
This is a bit of a cheat, but since they’re so out of fashion and interesting, I’d argue the $35 “behind the counter” Estee Lauder classics like Aliage, Azuree, cinnabar etc. are quasi-niche and great value. Also others may argue but the small Jo Malones are a good deal and fun.
Seconding (thirding?) the Andy Tauers which I think are right around $00. Also, aren’t the CdG incenses and their other series $80ish?
Interestingly… while I agree with you on the massive overpricing of almost everything else, will quibble on the MDCI. I happened to dig up my original samples recently to label them correctly (after they were given names) which I’d never done. I think they are absolutely stunning — however, they’re not “niche” in the sense of edginess. They’re classically stunning. There’s a really great rose, a really great chypre. If I were in the market for a classic fragrance I think one of those at $240(?) without the fancy packaging would be worth it, but then you don’t have the fancy packaging.
Okay, shutting up now.
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Yeah, I know what you mean about samples. The prices are almost an abstraction to me — it’s easy to forget about them.
Agree on the ELs.
Yeah, the incenses are still around $80 (but I paid around $50 for mine) but many other things in the line have inched up closer to $100, and the newer things are mostly over $100.
On the MDCI, again, it’s all in how much you esteem the brand. I thought the scents were really nice but no nicer than things available for half the price. They didn’t stun me. If they stunned me, yeah, I can see paying the $240.
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On December 19, 2008 Erin T said:
Interesing, March and Robin, because MDCI was my quibble too. I think Enlevement au Serail is one of the few things I would actually consider paying $240 for. Could care less about the packaging, the “fancier” version of which I find silly (at least in pictures). Invasion Barbare is pretty darn awesome, too. I like some of the “nicher” Guerlains: Plus Que Jamais and Attrape-Couer, etc. and they’re a similar price, but I can think of things that would replace them more easily than I can conjure up any MDCI substitutes. Oh well, won’t be spending the money on either any time soon….
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On December 20, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Fine, I’ll consider myself out-voted!
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On December 20, 2008 Erin T said:
Two to one is a “vote” with an inadequate sample size, I’m certain. I’m sure most of the perfumistas here agree with you, March and I are just freaks 🙂 Certainly I’m more excited when I fall in love with a Nicolai than a MDCI (and I’ll confess in a whisper that I didn’t find Promesse de L’Aube to be unique or worth the money. )
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On December 20, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
We don’t demand statistically relevant sample sizes around here — and I do think the MDCI line found lots of fans at MUA, although I don’t hear it mentioned so often lately. Too many niche brands! I’m sort of surprised they haven’t released any new fragrances.
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On December 19, 2008 violetnoir said:
Did anyone mention Parfums de Rosine? A 50 ml bottle is now $95. at Barneys and down to $85 or so at the conversion rate at Les Senteurs in London.
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Wow, didn’t know they were that much. It’s really shocking how prices have risen in the past 4 years.
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On December 20, 2008 Haunani said:
I forgot to mention Rosine in my post. I think they are worth their price. Especially Ecume. 🙂
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On December 19, 2008 jawhara said:
Comme des Garcons Incense series is still USD 80 at Luckyscent and totally worth its price. Love Ouarzazate!
Same for Lostmarch: Don’t think its the high artistry kind of niche, but some very nice, reasonably priced scents.
And then some scents of mainstream brands that smell as if they were niche: Donna Karan’s Black Cashmere and Gucci’s first Eau de parfum (not the Gucci by Gucci thing, mind you, this one could be straight from Serge, as to that, I think Serge is always worth the money)
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On December 19, 2008 Sariah said:
I bought Zagorsk from the Incense Series 2 years ago, it was $54 or so at Barneys. So, I find the $80 price tag a bit shocking.
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Shocks me too.
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Jawhara, I think the CdGs are all worth the price. Just can’t afford all of them anymore. $80 is not so bad, but the Hinoki & the Stephen Jones — forget it.
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On December 24, 2008 joe805 said:
Just FYI, there’s a place on the web called “Tobi” that sells the Incense series for $62, which includes shipping (I’m pretty sure their price has held steady recently). Best deal I’ve seen & I’ve been intending to order a couple more (you know how that is). At that great price, I’m happy to try to send them some business.
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On December 19, 2008 Sariah said:
Etat Libre D’Orange scents are a good value at $69 / 50ml bottle – I like Vraie Blonde and Encens et Bubblegum. I like that you can buy Bond No. 9 scents by the oz for $45 in the store.
Cost too much for what they are:
Tom Ford private blends….no way should these cost more than Serge Lutens
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
LOL — I frequently use that yardstick too, as in “should this cost more than SL”? And frequently, my answer is no.
Totally agree on the TFs, and had no idea the EldO scents were that cheap!
Need to find out if Bond still lets you bring your own bottle. Their empty bottles were not all that cheap when I was last there. If you can bring your own bottle, the $45 is a bargain for sure…
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On December 20, 2008 ahtx said:
Hey Sariah, where are you buying your Etat Libre? Last time I checked on Jasmin et Cigarette at Bendel’s it was $80 — not bad, but still higher. Maybe its just the jasmine?
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On December 19, 2008 Tama said:
Well, I do know the ones I have a hard time shelling out for and those are Vero Kern and Strange Invisible Perfumes. I adore VK’s Onda, but have to feel very rich before I buy. Even those coupla-drops samples are a strain!
For cheap treats I like Pacifica so far and am going to be trying Sonoma Scent Studio soon. I think I am also the only fan of the Opus Oils line, which sells in the under-$100 range – they have some very interesting fragrances and their sample sets are fun and cheap. In mainstream, I have been quite impressed with Estee Lauder and am enjoying the Private Collection, which at $65 is quite reasonable.
I am one of those who thinks that as luxury items go perfume, even expensive perfume, is much less expensive than if you collect Rolex watches or fine jewelry, so I don’t mind spending a bit. I do like those, like Andy Tauer, who keep their prices reasonable. Comme des Garcons is a great line for reasonable pricing, too, and they are so interesting!
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
The SiP EdPs aren’t nearly so bad as the Parfums…but at the moment, the ones I want the most aren’t in EdP — figures!
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On December 19, 2008 lala412 said:
Maybe they don’t count, since I’ve never seen them mentioned here, but I absolutely adore Black Phoenix Alchemy Labs. Their perfumes come in 5ml bottles, so they don’t fit the “under $100 for 50ml” rule (they range around 17 to 25 per 5ml bottle), but they last – I have samples from them I got in May that I haven’t used up yet, and some of them I’ve used several times. And they are generous with the samples when you order! The bottles I have right now are The Penitent Magdalene; Snow, Glass, Apples; Bewitched; and Huesos de Santos, which smells like orange cake and I have a hard time not wearing every single day. It was a limited edition for the Day of the Dead (I think still available?) – I found it and ordered it on my late husband’s birthday. It was perfect because he had a very fond memory of his late mother making him an orange cake for his birthday, so I always tried to find one for him… that’s one reason I love the company – their scents tend to have great stories behind them – that one was FOR the Day of the Dead, and the scent of cakes left for the spirits (the orange cake connection being a coincidence, obviously), and the write-ups on the website are fantastic. The perfumes also smell fantastic, and they last well, too. I have a long list of perfumes I still want to order from them!
Love your blog, btw!
Laura
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On December 19, 2008 Tama said:
Argh! Another site of interesting concoctions to bookmark. Sigh. Love that they have special scents to honor Neil Gaiman! Must have Mr. Nancy – sugar cookies, bay rum and tobacco? Oh, yeah.
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Hi Laura, I must admit I’ve only tried a few from BPAL — the sheer size of the line is a huge deterrent for me. Huesos de Santos sounds great though!
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On December 20, 2008 pyramus said:
Several times now I’ve gone to the BPAL website with the intention of ordering $100 or so of samples, only to get completely flummoxed by the vast number of choices. There are literally hundreds of scents, most of them described in dense little blocks of text, sometimes with poetry or other writing attached, and it’s all too much. And then I go and order a bunch of things from Luckyscent or The Perfumed Court instead.
What they REALLY need to do is to make a page–and flag it well, from the home page–of suggestions: here are the ten most popular, here are the ten of our scents men love the most, here are ten offbeat gothy things, ten florals, ten gourmands, ten orientals. Even better, do up sample sets along those lines. I would have bought a bunch of things from them by now if their site weren’t so daunting.
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On December 20, 2008 lala412 said:
They do have a forum, which is pretty active (though I rarely go there – I just love reading their descriptions!), and one folder is for recommendations. You might be able to find what you are looking for there, or better yet make this suggestion there! It’s a great suggestion. They do list the perfume notes at the end of each description, and I’ve ordered samples based on the ones that have similar notes – but then also tried to branch out and order different things to see how much I would like them. I ended up LOVING Absinthe and Schrodinger’s Cat. And then they send the random samples, too, with your sample order, so you can try even stranger things…
I hope this link works –
http://www.bpal.org/index.php?showforum=10
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On December 21, 2008 chandrahasa said:
You can search their site for specific notes in the “search” section. I think that’s much better than getting a “ten best” list going, cause I don’t like being forced into buying a “ten best” where I might only like three of them. But just in case you want to know, the bestsellers are usually Snake Oil, Dorian (unisex), and Dana O’Shee. And the forum, BPAL.org, is so helpful and lovely and you have reviews there AND other perfumistas to help you find exactly what you want. BPAL.org and Now Smell This are all on my “most watched sites” list. GOOD LUCK!
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On December 19, 2008 lilydale said:
I’m going to add my voice to the votes for Tauer and CdG for tremendous bang for the buck. They’re not dirt cheap, but they’re relatively affordable, and both lines offer some real masterpieces. L’Artisan and some of the Diptyques are quite lovely, too. The biggest rip-offs I’ve tried are Kilian and Amouage, but that’s just because none of the ones I’ve sampled smell particularly special on me.
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On December 19, 2008 Robin said:
Would anyone like to venture an opinion on the price/quality ratio of the Dawn Spencer Hurwitz line? I understand from our blogmistress that they’re not expensive. . .
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On December 19, 2008 marchlion said:
I love the DSH stuff. In fact my biggest “complaint” is the enormous content of their website. I can’t really speak to the florals, not my thing, but she does excellent spicy and gourmand scents. I think she has a sample program.
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On December 19, 2008 Robin said:
Thank you!
Chunk #2:
On December 19, 2008 rosarita said:
Great poll! I love the PdN line, too. I’ve fallen head over heels with Les Nereides ($60 per 50 ml @ LS) but the range is very narrow; I’m in a patchouli phase at the moment, and their Patchouli Antique and Imperial Oppoponax are perfect for right now. I don’t own a fb though – bought a partial of one and a decant of the other. DSH has some wonderful scents. My HG dirty rose scent is DSH Inner Sanctum, and I think it was $30. Sonoma Scent Studios has some wonderful things and both SSS & DSH have good sample programs. Ava Luxe has some great stuff, but it’s too bad they don’t sell samples anymore, imo, although many samps are for sale @ TPC.
CdG Original edt and 2, among others, are enduring favorites that can be purchased from online etailers, making them even more affordable. Etro is another line that I think has some excellent, lesser known scents that are very reasonably priced from discounters.
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On December 19, 2008 Robin said:
Would anyone be able to venture an opinion on Diptyque? Again, being Canadian, we don’t know much about prices, let along whether or not something is good value. Is the line expensive — and if it is, is it “worth it”? I know I’ve read some good things about some of their releases. . .
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On December 19, 2008 marchlion said:
The Diptyques are getting harder to find… the thing about them is, they are sufficiently weird I wouldn’t buy them unsniffed (although that’s actually a recommendation I’d make for everything.) I share Other Robin’s love for Philosykos and Tam Dao. Some of them are really weird, sharpish. One like vinegar?
I am absolutely going to shut up before Robin cuts me off, but will add that if she’s right and you can get Ormond Jayne and/or PDNs for less than $100, wow, I’d start there. Actually I’d start with OJ, which like the Tauers gave me my first shivers-up-the-back sense of how wide the boundaries of perfume beauty could be. At minimum you won’t sniff them and think, oh, I’ve smelled *that* a hundred times before.
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Rosarita, Yes — I got my Etro Shaal Nur for a great price online. I notice it isn’t quite so cheap now as when I bought it, but still.
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On December 19, 2008 Mikeperez23 said:
There are two Robin’s? How fun! 🙂
1. Ava Luxe and DSH
2. L’Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer would have to be the best bang for the buck – I can’t tell you how many times it’s been recommended over at Basenotes to such glowing reviews.
3. By Kilian line
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On December 19, 2008 Robin said:
Yes, two Robins, and completely different! I’m a single urban Canadian, and our blogmistress is, besides being famous, a married, suburban American mom! She is also something of a maven when it comes to tea, chocolate. . .and, of all things, fragrance.
I signed on before I could think that having two Robins could be confusing! I’ve apologized to the “original” Robin about this; sorry, too, to the rest of you.
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On December 19, 2008 LianH said:
Another good value for money would be Montale, but you’d have to sample. Sweet Oriental Dream is cheaper than KM Loukhoum and possibly longer lasting.
Also an honourable mention for Robert Piguet fragrances, good value for money there.
Overpriced would be many of the bond no 9 offerings. I find chinatown and fracas very closelky linked to eachother, chinatown is a little fruitier but for the difference in price I’d go fracas all the way.
Another ‘cheapie’ line that can be loads of fun is comptoir sud pacific. Not sure it qualified as niche but they are fun.
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Yes, Piguet is a better value for the money than many other brands. I suppose they’re niche — I don’t tend to think of them that way, but given their current distribution I guess they are.
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On December 19, 2008 dissed said:
That would be Ormonde Jayne, especially now, when the pound is sucking wind. The sample package is generous, a bargain at any time. And you have to be williing for them to grow on you. Ormonde Woman has been my number one scent for several years, but I hated it at first sniff. I couldn’t forget it . . . a year later, I tried again and fell, hard. And they’re all that good. I’m on my third bottle of Ormonde, second bottle of Champaca, and working on Orris Noir.
Sonoma Scent Studio is probably the best deal out there. The scents are glorious and affordable. I’m doling out drops of the old “Bois Vanille,” which knocks Serge right off his pedestal, IMHO.
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Oh dear, don’t be knocking poor Serge off his pedestal, LOL! But agree, the SSS line is a good deal.
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On December 19, 2008 krokodilgena said:
I don’t usually plan on getting past the sampling part, so I don’t really pay attention to prices….
but I really want to try Black Rosette by Strange Invisible Perfumes
$5 for 1/3 ml seems a little silly to me…
$185 for .25 oz… are the bottle seriously that small??
that’s like 7 ml
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
It’s pricey, but it’s extrait + not only all natural, but they do much of their own distilling. So, at least you know you’re paying for something other than a swanky brand name. But I do wish they’d do Black Rosette in the cheaper EdP, and then I wish they’d do the EdPs in smaller sizes.
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On December 19, 2008 krokodilgena said:
I guess…
Ava Luxe is a pretty good value, but I think I might be allergic to some ingredient that she uses
Moroccan Mint Tea was fine though, I put that on my Christmas list.
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On December 20, 2008 helenviolette said:
Hi K- Black Rosette is glorious- so don’t order the 1/3 ml unless you are ready to fall hard. You can wear the 1/3 ml about 5 times- so if you have as much perfume as the rest of us, you might be very content with buying a few of those little samps. (btw, have yet to meet a SIP I don’t like)
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On December 19, 2008 VanillaGirl said:
I’d like to put in a word for the Heeley line, which I find immensely wearable, and good value. Lubin’s scents are also quite reasonably-priced for the quality, as are Parfumerie Generale’s.
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On December 19, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
How much are those Heeleys in the UK, anyway? Boy, they’re expensive here, almost $150 (although they’re in 100 ml only, unfortunately).
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On December 20, 2008 VanillaGirl said:
I paid about 90 euros in Paris. I didn’t think there was a UK stockist (got Iris de Nuit from Luckyscent), but it looks as if Browns are selling fragrance again. It’s £75 there, which is a lot less than $150 given the current miserable state of the pound!
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On December 21, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Thanks. I need a trip to London — after the dollar recovers — so I’ll have a long wait, won’t I?
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On December 19, 2008 Mamabear said:
I’ve become a huge fan of some of Liz Zorn’s perfumes. I think they are elegantly constructed (even the ones that don’t work for me) and extremely reasonable.
Ditto Ava Luxe and Ayala Moriel, though hers don’t last on me. Ava’s do, often well into the next morning.
Beyond that, ‘niche’ has begun to mean something different for me I’m so old-school that ‘niche’ has begun to mean those fragrances from the past that aren’t easily accessible offline, though they are still in production. They include:
Schiaparelli Shocking
Bal a Versaille (parfum)
Apre l’Ondee (here, but only easy if you live in NY)
Femme (haven’t ever seen it in an actual shop)
Love the Pd’Empire line – I think it’s well worth the price and the bottles are so elegant
Have yet to find the SL worth the $$$$ they ask for them.
If Anne Pliska didn’t smell like Play-Doh on me, I would agree with you about the value.
L’Artisan, while not quite niche, gives great bang for the buck.
could go on but this would be the longest comment in the thread!
xo
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On December 20, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Your idea of niche is much different than mine — to me, it is mostly about how a scent is distributed, although you’re right that many of those individual scents are hard to find here. I wouldn’t even know where to buy Shocking at all…
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On December 19, 2008 Jett said:
Well I would have to say that the Tom Ford line is vastly over priced, almost to the point of being arrogant. I’m sure Tom would disagree 🙂
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On December 20, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Surely he’s aware that he’s arrogant though, LOL…
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On December 19, 2008 Haunani said:
Wonderful topic! I’ve gleaned a lot from everyone’s posts. Must try BPAL, and more Ava Luxes. I also had the (apparent) misconception that Ormonde Jayne was overpriced. Sounds like it’s time for me to buy my coveted bottle of Ta’if, and maybe Woman too!
L’Artisan and Parfumerie Generale are two of top favorite niche houses. I think they’re worth every penny. I derive SO much pleasure from my bottles of Dzonghka and L’Oiseau de Nuit, to mention a couple.
Sonoma Scent Studio’s prices are more than reasonable. I happened to spend the day today wearing Velvet Rose. It is a beauty!
The Different Company and Frederic Malle are also tops on my list, but as they are more pricey, they certainly aren’t impulse items! I don’t think anyone’s mentioned Miller Harris yet. That line is another favorite of mine. I REALLY want a bottle of their Fleurs de Sel, but $220 is quite a chunk of change!
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On December 20, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
I don’t think the OJ line is overpriced at all. They’re gorgeous, they’re unusual, and they’re less than $100 a bottle.
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On December 20, 2008 Haunani said:
I still have to order direct from Great Britain, right? That was my other hesitation.
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On December 20, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Yes, you do, sorry! OJ was going to open up a US website, but they haven’t done so yet.
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On December 20, 2008 Jirish said:
Hi, I’m another big fan of Fleurs de Sel, and wanted to let you know that if you go to their website and click on the US site, you get a price of $220, but if you click on the UK site, you get a price of 107 pounds, which with the current exchange rate equals about $165. I’m still working through a large decant of FdS, but I’m sorely tempted to buy this at the pound price, from the UK site if possible. Don’t know if it can be done, but it’s worth a try!
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On December 20, 2008 Haunani said:
Thank you, Jirish! That is much better and worth considering. Though you’d have to consider the differences in shipping. Right now, the US site is offering free shipping. So glad to meet another who loves Fleurs de Sel!
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On December 19, 2008 Valkyrie said:
Okay I am officially making myself the black sheep of the board, but I say for niche bargains go to the perfume oils of Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab, Conjure Oils, and Arcana Soaps and Oils. Black Phoenix offers 5ml $15- $25, Conjure Oils 5m $15 and 10ml $25, and Arcana 5ml $12 and 10ml $16.
I have found that a lot of the oils are so strongly concentrated 5 ml will last as long as an 1 oz of an edp spray perfume. Oil perfumes seem to last longer on the skin as well, but they do have less sillage.
Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab scares away alot of perfumistas with their prolific nature and the dark inspirations for the perfumes. They do have some creepy and weird/ unwearable stuff, but they have total beauties as well. To decide what to sample you must pour over the reviews/ recomendations at their forum bpal.org.
And yeah the weirdness is a thrill, why not smell like an Aztec God:
XIUHTECUHTLI- Copal, plumeria and sweet orange and the smoke of South American incense and crushed jungle blooms.
TEZCATLIPOCA- Deep cocoa laced with patchouli, leather armor, ritual incense, and a touch of Xochiquetzal’s flowers.
A new orleans funeral:
JAZZ FUNERAL- Bittersweet bay rum, bourbon, and a host of funeral flowers with a touch of graveyard dirt, magnolia and Spanish Moss.
Or a carnie freak:
FAIZA, THE BLACK MAMBA- A sensual blend of twisting, exotic, serpentine oils: black amber, caraway, oakmoss, green sandalwood, bergamot, jasmine sambac, gardenia, orange pulp, vanilla, blackberry, black musk, white honey, ti leaf, and ginger.
TIRESIAS, THE ANDROGYNE- Dark, moody, and bittersweet: black currant, patchouli, tobacco, cinnamon leaf, caramel, muguet, and red sandalwood
WULRIC, THE WOLFMAN- Friendly, charming, and cuddly, but possessing one hell of a mean streak: cocoa absolute, French vanilla, birch tar, lavender, bourbon vetiver, wild musk, clary sage, and cistus.
MME. MORIARTY, MISFORTUNE TELLER- Red musk, vanilla bean, pomegranate, patchouli leaf and wild plum.
THEODOSIUS, THE LEGERDEMAIN- Earl Grey tea leaves, a white fougere, jasmine leaf, pearlescent white musk, and vanilla bean.
HOPE & FAITH, THE SIAMESE TWINS- Simplicity and innocence, gleefully despoiled! Hope is sugared rose, Faith is sugared violet. The sisters are inseparable, and may only be purchased together. Presented in a black velveteen pouch. $40.00.
(BTW- if intrigued the BPAL Carnavale Diabolique series is still available even though the site says otherwise)
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On December 20, 2008 lala412 said:
Yay! Someone else who loves BPAL. 🙂 I had already recommended them, so you don’t have to worry about being the only black sheep. Do you have the ones you recommended? I haven’t tried those. I have a ton of imps, but I don’t have any of those you listed! XIUHTECUHTLI sounds wonderful. So does TEZCATLIPOCA. My favorites are Sophia, Lady Macbeth, The Penitent Magdalene, Absinthe, Huesos de Santo, Bewitched, Lightning, and Schrodinger’s Cat… and I think there are a few other imps I love that I can’t remember. I have only four of my favorites so far, though. I put the others on my Christmas list – if not, I’ll get at least one after Christmas. They’re not that expensive, but I have to buy a car in April! 🙂
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On December 20, 2008 Valkyrie said:
With liking the red/ purple fruity nature of Lady Macbeth and Bewitched, if you like patchouli, you might love MME. MORIARTY, MISFORTUNE TELLER which is the most popular/ cult fragrance of the Carnavale Diabolique line- the Snake Oil of that line. She is worth the hype, I usually don’t like red/ purple fruits in my perfumes but a friend of mine wears this a lot and it smells divine on her.
FAIZA, THE BLACK MAMBA is my favorite perfume from any company! It could almost be a signature scent for me, if my many moods didn’t make me need many scents- and the fact that it’s going to be discontinued eventually. But I can wear this day, and night and in every season except the hottest days in Summer. It is a smoldering, smoky, jasmine kissed, green sandalwood. It makes me feel sultry, confident, and a little predatory. (power of suggestion- she is a snake woman.) She does take a couple months to age, to get a rid of some honey sweetness- but it is so worth the wait.
XIUHTECUHTLI is gorgeous- a perfect balance of tropical flowers, soft orange, and incense. Their description “light within darkness” is dead on. Poetic description required for this one. I love it for Summer.
When I first wore TEZCATLIPOCA I got the impression of eating a Hershey bar while walking through a slaughter house. The patchouli and leather meld together to produce something very animalic musky, but not a sex musk- a sweaty, unwashed musk. When I got the nerves to try it again, I applied so sparingly and it didn’t seem so bad. The musky patchouli/ dry cocoa/ leather combo is actually intoxicating, sexy, and brazen.
I so want to try TIRESIAS, THE ANDROGYNE, but am worried about the red/ purple fruityness of the black currant and tobacco.
I am new to BPAL too, and there are so many I want to try. Other favs. are Anne Bonny, Sin, Clemence- Ladies of the Grindhouse, Temple Viper, Eos, Rose Red, Yggdrasil, Szepasszony, and Delphi.
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On December 20, 2008 lala412 said:
I do like patchouli – I’ll have to try MME. MORIARTY, then!
I got Huesos de Santo back in August, and have been wearing it constantly. I love it – it puts me in a good mood. I got Snow, Glass, Apples primarily for the chapbook – it’s a little too apple-y for me, but I don’t regret the purchase.
It’s funny how perfumes can smell so differently on a person. I have no idea what Absinthe is supposed to smell like, but on me it smells like root beer! I HAVE to get a bottle eventually! I was reading back through my notes – I haven’t worn Voodoo for a long time, but what I wrote when I first tried it was that it smelled a little like chocolate covered cherries – the cordial-kind of smell rather than the chocolate or the actual cherry…
I’m very fond of Hurricane, Lightning, Snake Oil, and Succubus, but I think maybe Lightning is the only one I would get a bottle of so far. I need to wear them a few more times. I got so stuck on Huesos De Santo I’ve forgotten what half my Imps smell like! I tend to be fond of anything with sage, thyme, lavender, blackberries, etc. in it with BPAL, but yet in other perfumes I go for the orientals. Go figure.
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On December 20, 2008 Valkyrie said:
Have you tried Lady Una from the Stardust line? Her notes:honey musk, green tea leaf, blackberry leaf, vanilla bean, fae spices. It is totally honey and vanilla drenched blackberries with a touch of slightly naughty musk that comes and goes. Very sexy and the proceeds go to help fight for free speech.
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On December 20, 2008 lala412 said:
I think I do remember reading the description and thinking that I should get it – at one point I had a list… I think that was before my computer crashed! 🙂 I probably still have it somewhere, just not sure where…
I did go order Absinthe tonight, and Frau Holle!
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On December 20, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Valkyrie, you’ve got company so you’re not a black sheep 🙂
But I’ll readily admit I’m just not that interested in BPAL, although a have tried a handful.
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On December 20, 2008 lilydale said:
I’m another one who has checked out the BPAL Web site but found the sheer number of scents too daunting, although many of them do sound enticing. In addition, the Dungeons & Dragons-for-grown-ups aspect is really, really off-putting…
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On December 20, 2008 lala412 said:
I don’t think it is intended as you are seeing it. And stereotypes can be dangerous. I, for one, am a pagan who appreciates the depth of detail in their descriptions, and the thought that goes in to each perfume they craft, yet I never actually got in to any role-playing games… they just weren’t my thing.
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On December 21, 2008 lilydale said:
I have no doubt that a great deal of thought goes into their scents, and I’m sure many of them are wonderful. However, BPAL has crafted a public image that can be off-putting to people who don’t share the company’s interests — stereotypes can work both ways — and it’s hard to get past that image to the scents themselves.
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On December 21, 2008 chandrahasa said:
I love BPAL because I love perfume, and I’ve never played Dungeons & Dragons. Try not to resort to those sorts of insults. They’re a little cheap and not reflective of the value you can get from BPAL if you took the time to consider them. Their perfume oils are cheaper and almost identical to some things you could find at other niche lines, but they don’t come in EDTs.
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On December 21, 2008 lilydale said:
Whoa there, please… My D&D comment was meant as a humorous characterization of the BPAL ethos, not an insult! I have indeed taken the time to consider them — I’ve spent a good deal of time on the company’s Web site, and, as I mentioned, found many of the scents enticing — but I find much of the information distracting, off-putting, or plain old impenetrable. I’m sure they have some terrific products, but brand image or marketing or whatever they’re calling it these days really does count. I’m glad they’re doing their thing; it’s just not my thing.
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On December 21, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Going to butt in here and say there’s obviously some disagreement on this issue, and I can see both sides. Let’s drop this part of the thread please — everyone doesn’t have to agree, and there’s not point in adding to the fire.
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On December 20, 2008 SFLizbeth said:
Wow, from the sounds of it, I’d like this line.
The Jazz Funeral sounds really great. I love the smell of Spanish Moss.
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On December 21, 2008 Valkyrie said:
I’m glad to have already evilly enabled some to Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab, but I totally left out any specific scents or love for Conjure Oils or Arcana. I haven’t actually tried anything from either company, but I have big wishlists for them and they are adored by the people on the BPAL forum.
Conjure Oils:
Persephone – Iced pomegranate, pale daffodils, melting snow and dark woods thaw in the early spring sun. (From reading so many perfume blogs/ reviews this one seems to be one of the most beautiful and realistic snow scents ever.)
How You Doin’? cardamom, patchouli, orris and chips of high john the conqueror root put the signal out there that you’re looking for a good time. (I want this one so bad, so when someone asked me what I was wearing I could say the name of this perfume like Joey from Friends would:) LOL
Arcana:
Leaves Falling Like Rain Perfume Oil (Limited Edition): In honor of our beloved Pacific Northwest and the best time of the year. A comforting base of brown sugar, caramel, gingersnaps and cappuccino is sparked off with hints of vintage patchouli, hyssop, mullein and white pepper.
Caffeinated Death Perfume Oil (Limited Edition): A fatally wired combination of cocoa absolute, coffee, chai spices, Bourbon vanilla and white cognac. You can sleep when you’re dead.
Murder Ballad Blues Perfume Oil: In the tradition of murder ballads, the essence of an old-time jailhouse lament (on fiddle): wild Appalachian blackberries and sugared mountain violets with hints of dark earth and guilty secrets.
Plus Arcana has great soaps and sugar scrubs in their perfume scents.
(I am getting those coffee ones for Christmas)
Chunk #3:
On December 19, 2008 Kchouc said:
Dear Robin(s):)
I must tell you that your blog is most addictive. I found it early Fall of this year and spend – probably way too much time reading each and every article…. It’s only recently that I decided I could “join” in the conversation…. I love reading about all these niche perfumes. Living in the western US and also mid-west for a long time – I have no idea who some of these perfume houses are – but I do have a darling daughter in NYC and I have requested that she go to Bergdorf’s, etc to find me some wonderful little samples of the fragrances that I am now reading about….
I have absolutely loved fragrance, aromas, etc for as long as I can remember. My sense of smell is probably my most powerful sense. My mother told me a long time ago that the best way to calm me as a very young child was to give me an empty bottle of her cologne – or even a lid to a lipstick tube – to smell as I fell asleep at night… I know it probably sounds strange…. I remember going to my Grandmother’s home and sneaking into her beautiful bedroom and opening up her lingerie drawer where she kept all her big bottles of Avon body cream… How I adored opening them and smelling them. One had such a beautiful carnation fragrance. What is ironic is that many years later when I was a young working girl still living at home. My Grandmother was at our home for a week when I noticed her coming out of my bedroom rather sneakily. She laughed and said “I just had to go in and spray a little of your perfume on – I absolutely love it.” It was Chloe – and she continued to love it so much that she wore it every day until she died almost 7 years ago.
So, enough of my blabbing – I wish I could tell you about some gorgeous fragrance that I found in a darling little boutique… but I will be going to Nordstrom tomorrow to have my weekly fix of something new for the Holidays.
Happy Holidays to all of you!
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On December 20, 2008 lala412 said:
That is such a sweet story about your grandmother! I still think of mine when I smell Tabu – I think I have her Tabu bottle, but most everything I own is in storage right now. She died 11 years ago yesterday. When I was little I would always open the Tabu powder box in the bathroom and sniff really hard – and then later my mom would always ask who had done it, since it was obvious. 🙂
It’s a wonder my sister and I didn’t end up blowing up the house when we were kids – we would sneak out of our bedrooms and go in to the bathroom at night to “make perfume.” This consisted of getting the old Folgers coffee can (the “sick” can) that mom kept behind the toilet and mixing Comet, baby powder, a little water, and anything else we could possibly find! The smell was horrible, but we kept trying. Good thing we had wonderful imaginations and that my mom didn’t keep anything dangerous (when combined) under the bathroom sink – like bleach and ammonia!!!!
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On December 20, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Kchouc, what a lovely story!
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On December 20, 2008 oblitterati said:
I love CB I Hate Perfume for bang for the buck at any price. His prices are extremely reasonable, especially for the room sprays and single note accords.
I also love some of the Demeters, and think that Gingerale is really one of the great classics of all time. (Not even kidding). I miss the limited Demeter notes that were available at the old store near Cooper Union. I remember “Old Money” and “New Money” as two of the more esoteric offerings. Really, Brosius can do no wrong in my book.
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On December 20, 2008 pyramus said:
Demeter Gingerale IS a great classic–not a proper scent (no lasting power, no development), more of a smell, but one of the most perfectly realized things ever, right down to the carbonation. It’s photorealism, but in perfume instead of painting. Genius.
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On December 20, 2008 oblitterati said:
A year ago I would have totally agreed with you, but this past summer I started wearing Gingerale on a daily basis, and I was amazed by the evolution and drydown. One day, whe I wasn’t wearing anything I remember thinking “What smells so good?” and later realizing it was the Gingerale residue that had built up on the sleeves of my favorite sweatshirt. It’s a slightly sweet, slightly citrus woodsy drydown. Its not fizzy, and it’s rather different from the scent of gingerale but it is marvelous.
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On December 20, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Agree on CB, absolutely!
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On December 20, 2008 IrisNobile said:
Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo bottles are about 98 bucks for 4oz.
You can get a 1.7 of CdG 1 or 2 on Ebay for 29 dollars or something like that.
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On December 20, 2008 HDS1963 said:
WHAT?
We’ve gone 80 odd posts and nobody has mentioned Penhaligon’s yet? (Unless I have missed something).
Before I go on to talk about this great niche house, I have to say they are very poorly represented on Now Smell This in terms of reviews and coverage.
Over the years I have come to love Penhaligon’s. Their fragrances are not only beautifully crafted but possessed of a house signature.
I did a spot of research from here in Blighty (that’s the UK for the uninitiated) and was able to find 100ml bottles for around the $100 mark.
There are some absolutely beautiful fragrances to be had from Penhaligon’s.
For women, there are many, my personal favourites would include Artemesia, Elizabetha Rose, Bluebell and in my opinion one of the most beautiful fragraces EVER for a woman, the divine Malabah (truly a work of genius in the perfumer’s art).
For men, well frankly it’s an embarrassment of riches, there’s the sheer classiness of Blenheim Bouquet, Racquets or Douro or my favourite of these Castile. Any man wearing these will smell expensive and refined and for a long time as the longevity is good.
Then you can dip into more exotic flavours like the delicious Endymion or Opus 1870.
But perhaps my favourites if it were possible out of such a rich motherlode would be the newly launched Elixir a richly spicey number from the Gucci Homme I or CDG Man 2 school but with a Turkish Rose note which hails from one of the true kings of the Penhaligon’s line, Hammam Bouquet.
Hammam Bouquet is quite simply a fragrance that should cause a hushed silence to come over the room from other rose fragrances. It, is without doubt one of the finest rose based fragrances ever created.
Penhaligon’s. It’s just plain rude not to have any in your collection in my opinion…
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On December 20, 2008 HDS1963 said:
OK! OK! Just noticed Kevin’s review of Elixir and Hammam Bouquet from a couple of days ago…
Suitably embarrassed now… lol.
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On December 20, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
LOL — no need to be embarrassed! And you’re right, we haven’t covered Penhaligon’s very well — it just isn’t a line that I adore. I’d sure like a bottle of the new Elixir though!
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On December 20, 2008 lala412 said:
Well, you’ve sold me. Off to google them… 🙂
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On December 20, 2008 lala412 said:
Wow – Malabah sounds AMAZING (found their website). I love orientals. Do you know if you can get samples anywhere? I’ll have to look that up…
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On December 20, 2008 HDS1963 said:
I bought a bottle of Malabah for my daughter on her 18th birthday recently. Not only did she fall in love with it, she gets more comments on it than any of the High St frags that she owns. It doesn’t smell like anything else, it’s just beautiful – and it is unusual for an 18 year old to wear it, but being her father’s daughter, she wears it well… 😉
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On December 20, 2008 pyramus said:
You can get the Scent Library from Penhaligon’s: ten 2-mL vials in a gold metal cigarette case. I got mine a couple-three weeks ago and I’ve been so overwhelmed with new samples I haven’t tried a one of them, but they sound great. There are five women’s samples (Artemisia, Bluebell, Lavandula, Lily of the Valley, and Malabar) and five men’s (Blenheim Bouquet, Endymion, English Fern, Hammam Bouquet, and Quercus). Amazon.com has them if you’re in the US: $20, or direct from Penhaligon’s in the UK, £15.
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On December 20, 2008 lala412 said:
Oooh, that sounds great – I did order samples from Luckyscents, but this sounds nicer (I’m a sucker for presentation 🙂 ).
I love Amazon! Thank you!
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On December 20, 2008 lala412 said:
http://www.penhaligons.co.uk/shop/seasonal-gifts/mini-her-collection-623627.html
They also have a “Mini Her” collection (and a Mini him collection, but I didn’t look at it) for $50 – 4 5mL bottles, Ellenisia, Lily and Spice, Artemisia, and Malabah. So if I like the samples, I can get slightly larger bottles for not quite such a huge price!
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On December 20, 2008 lala412 said:
This whole poll idea was dangerous for me. I ended up spending WAY too much at Luckyscents, in two different orders because I found more after my first order! I got ten Penhaligon’s samples, then I got some MDCI samples and some from Lostmarch and Satellite and Pilar and Lucy… So, despite my “no more perfume until after I turn in this car and buy a new one in April” rule, now I have to go get something at BPAL to relieve my guilty conscience.
🙂
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On December 21, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Hope you’ll find some wonderful things though 🙂
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On December 20, 2008 Jirish said:
I’m very late commenting on this, but I’m surprised noone’s mentioned Crazylibelle as a great bargain. Their Encens Mystic is a wonderful incense scent, just as good as the CdG’s IMO. And like others here I’ve recently become smitten with Sonoma Scent Studio, which I find a great value. And I love it when companies offer smaller bottles, as they do.
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On December 20, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
They really are a great bargain — I don’t think I’d give up my Avignon, but I do really like the Encens Mystic, and you can’t beat the price. I wish they’d do more of the cheap solids instead of all the much more expensive liquids they’ve done recently.
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On December 20, 2008 Aparatchik said:
I’m late to the conversation, but have to agree on two lines that are excellent bargains: Parfum de Nicolai and Ava Luxe. I’m extremely partial the Ava Luxe, which has a wide range of fabulous scents that last forever. What more can you ask? I’m wearing her Bois de Figue today – ripe fig, sandalwood, Himalayan cedarwood, Bulgarian tobacco, cardamom, corriander, Mexican lime. Sublime. $30 for 50 ml.
Thanks to comments here, I’ve put Sonoma Scent Studios on my must-try list.
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On December 20, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Bois de Figue sounds lovely — will add that to *my* list, thanks!
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On December 20, 2008 lala412 said:
That reminds me of another perfumer I bought samples from last spring – I believe I got the link from your blog, actually. Michael Storer – I got a sample set of six perfumes, and the Kadota was my favorite.
I have over 40 samples (half of those from BPAL, then most of the rest from Luckyscents), and yet all I’ve been wearing since August has been Huesos De Santo! 🙂 This last week I did start wearing Bewitched to work instead, and one night I took my samples of Sophia and Lady Macbeth to work. I reapplied either Lady Macbeth or Bewitched – they are a lot alike, but Lady Macbeth is much stronger – after a break, and the lady I work with asked if I had been brewing tea. 🙂
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On December 20, 2008 sarahn said:
1. As you say, Robin, there are plenty of lines that represent true value for the money, but don’t you think that the rising prices (or the falling dollar, if you prefer) is making them ever more out of reach? When Parfumerie Generale debuted at $85 for 50 ml, I couldn’t believe what a relative bargain they were. Now they’re $120+. Same with TDC, Lutens, etc.
2. The best deal going is 10 Corso Como for $85. Ava Luxe is amazing too, although her prices are rising just like everyone else’s.
3. I agree with you on this one: almost everything. Bond, Yosh, By Kilian, Profumum, i Profumi, the $300 CDG’s… there are so many.
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On December 22, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Yes, absolutely — but it looks like some lines are eating some of the difference…others are simply raising prices.
Agree on 10 Corso Como!
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On December 20, 2008 pyramus said:
I was so busy commenting on other people’s comments that I forgot to mention my own favourite niche bargain: Brandy, which at $48 for a 50-mL bottle can’t be beat. (The brand is so niche that, like Anné Pliska, that’s their only scent.) Some people hate it: they think it smells like a pomander or potpourri, or like mulled cider, and I guess it kind of does, but to me it’s gorgeously autumnal, all crisp windfall apples and dry leaves and earth. (It doesn’t smell like brandy: it’s named after a horse.)
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On December 20, 2008 lala412 said:
I almost bought that in my first Luckyscents sample order today (simply because I’ve been writing a never-to-be-published book where the main character is a bartender named Brandy, so I’m partial to the name), but for some reason didn’t. Now that I hear it IS good, I’m adding it to my second order. Glad I haven’t closed it out yet! 🙂
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On December 22, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Wow, I didn’t realize it was still so reasonably priced — that’s amazing.
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On December 20, 2008 NewPerfumista said:
I’m brand new here so bear with my perfume ignorance. I haven’t experienced enough niche perfume to determine the best value for the dollar but off the top of my head I CAN say that Parfume Generale’s Aomoussai is fantastic for the price. It’s extremely rich and lasts forever. Also, I do like Bond No. 9’s Chinatown…don’t care for most of the others, though.
In terms of overpriced perfume? Well, Clive Christian comes to mind. Also, Ralph Lauren just released a limited edition which costs about 2200 dollars. I just cannot fathom spending that much money on perfume even if it does have an amethyst on the bottle.
Although Chinatown is a great perfume, I don’t feel that the rest of the line justifies the price tag.
Just my two cents for a perfume newbie.
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On December 21, 2008 Jett said:
One thing to remember is your opinion is NEVER wrong. We are all so different and perfume is a very personal choice. If you like niche perfumes or mainstream perfumes it’s all good. I have learn so much here and it is all so exciting so just sit back relaxe and above all else HAVE FUN.
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On December 22, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Hi NewPerfumista! You don’t sound much like a newbie to me 🙂
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On December 21, 2008 mybeautyblog said:
Imho I do like DITPYQUE and L’Artisan, I think the first one gives great value for the money. The L’A P scents do not last lomg, therefore they are really interesting and not so difficult to “learn to smell”. The price is never a bargain, but compared to department store stuff it is okay – around 60 Euro for 50ml. Same as a big GUCCI botlle, the problem is only that you never get niche stuff in sale. Never…
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On December 22, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Here you can get niche on sale by waiting til one of the retailers runs a coupon…and many of them do!
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On December 21, 2008 Wordbird said:
I’ll second the votes for Ava Luxe and Andy Tauer. I was lucky enough to visit Mr Tauer’s friend’s shop in Zurich last week and tried L’Air du Desert Marocain. It was as good as they say. I am also bowled over by Parfums d’Empire – the imagination, construction and quality of their fragrances is fantastic.
I’ve also started exploring the Possets collection and find it interesting.
And it sounds like it’s time for me to explore Parfums de Nicolai and Ormonde Jayne.
Not value for money? I’m unconvinced by the Chanel Les Exclusifs business. Who wants to spend that much money on a massive bottle of edt? Why stop making extraits of classics like Bois des Iles and Cuir De Russie just to fit them into a frankly harebrained marketing strategy?
Similarly, I’m unimpressed by anyone who claims to make super-expensive fragrance just for expense’s sake. We all know that money is no guarantee of quality or beauty. (At least, that’s what my Nana always told me.)
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On December 22, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
On the Chanels, I think 200 ml is worth the price, but hey, I don’t need 200 ml of anything — so can’t argue w/ you.
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On December 21, 2008 ltaraleigh said:
Newbie here joining in! Agree with L’artisan, CB I hate perfume, Saffron James (love the Hawaiian scents) and Tauer for good bang for your buck. Aftelier seems like a pretty good deal considering it’s natural.
Maybe I was looking at the wrong stuff (edt vs. edp) but Caron on Ebay seemed really inexpensive. Demeter also for inexpensive fun.
Overpriced for me would be By Kilian , Bond, Profumum. Also, I was walking by the Fresh boutique in SF last week. Please. All of their scents are thin and smell like sugar! Prices are way too steep.
Lastly, a bit off topic but does Sonoma Scent Studio have a boutique in Sonoma? I live in the area and would love to stop by. Any other Bay Area studios/boutiques open to public.
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On December 21, 2008 helenviolette said:
SSS is in Healdsburg…
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On December 22, 2008 Haunani said:
So far there is no boutique, but the website indicates that there are plans for a possible open studio day once a week beginning sometime in 2009.
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On December 22, 2008 SFLizbeth said:
A visit to SSS would be fun and informative! What a nice idea.
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On December 22, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Glad someone else answered, I didn’t know SSS was planning a studio.
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On December 22, 2008 Kathryn said:
Hi, Robin & Robin. Wow, what a great topic and what excellent comments! I have only to add that Esteban Sensuelle Russie, remarkably similar to Ambre Narguile, is a great value at $35 for 100 ml. I think I may actually like it better than AN in a less is more kind of way, since the smell is a bit less saturated and it’s somewhat easier to wear. Also, EL Cinnabar, as mentioned above, is another wonderful value in the same price range. Not niche in distribution, but an interesting, niche-smelling sort of scent. Happy Holidays!
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On December 22, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
The Esteban really is very nicely priced — I keep meaning to review SR. Thanks!
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On December 22, 2008 Robin said:
I realize this thread’s getting a little elderly, but I don’t think anyone’s mentioned Neil Morris. Any helpful comments about his prices and the relative quality of his creations? I know that he is considered incredibly charasmatic and creative. . .
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On December 22, 2008 Robin said:
Typo! Charismatic!
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On December 22, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
I haven’t tried them, sorry!
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On December 22, 2008 AnnS said:
I’ll chime in here for Sonoma Scent Studio that is amazingly affordable and wonderful niche line. Rose Musc works wonders for the soul, esp. when 10″ of snow and below freezing temps are involved!
I think Annick Goutal – if it can still be considered niche? – is a good bargain, not only because of different sizes/formulas, but also because you can find it in a variety of places on-line to get good prices.
I think best frag bargains are Estee Lauders, Lancome Magie Noir (specifically) – what a huge deal for such an amazing frag $55!! — and anywhere you can find Bal a Versailles in any concentration! And I think I’ll have to stick up for some Guerlains that are hard to find these days, eg, Nahema, Attrape Coeur, Apres L’Ondee, etc.
Overpriced? Tom Ford, Clive Christian, Keiko Mecheri, and especially beih parfumkunstwerke (regardless of how good they smell, they only last for about 30 minutes).
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On December 22, 2008 Robin said:
Must weigh in to say that I find the biehls a bit hit and miss. Some are fleeting, true, but the ones I have and love — and I don’t find them over-priced, but do wish they came in 50mls as well — last for a VERY long time and are beautiful and totally unique every second: hbo1, gs02, mb03, pc02, eo03, mb02 and eo01.
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On December 22, 2008 AnnS said:
You have my apologies on the beihl’s … I’ve only tried a handful, and was so disappointed that I didn’t try any more….I’d probably feel different if I could try them in a store – but I had to buy all the decants, etc, and it didn’t seem worthwhile to pursue them.
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On December 22, 2008 Robin said:
Goodness gracious, no apologies necessary! Just was hoping you might not be too discouraged to give the rest a chance, in case there was a hidden gem in there for you to discover, as I have. I have rather a lot of fragrances, and those top biehls are among my favourites.
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On December 23, 2008 AnnS said:
I have a tester of MB02 that I liked a bit, but it smelled like Apres L’Ondee and YSL Paris had a little peppery baby…otherwise, I’ll have to look up the ones you liked and chech them out one of these days. It’s really hard to get good info on the Beihl’s on-line. NST has a few reviews, but there really isn’t much helpful info out there….I shouldn’t give up too soon. It took me a number of testers before I found the 3 or 4 Goutal’s I really like. It goes that way sometimes.
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On December 26, 2008 rrazzell on MUA (was Robin) said:
Dear Ann,
I’m happy to send you samples of the four I own. PLMK. I’m rrazzell on MUA!! It’ll be a belated Christmas treat for you.
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On December 23, 2008 kaos.geo said:
I think Comme Des Garcons is still good value for money.
They strive to do different and I like the direction they take.
Regarding the rest, I have tried very very few real niche frags, aside from exclusive collections from mainstream brands.
Here in Argentina we did not get any of the niche brands, but 2 days ago while shopping for christmas presents… I found that we have started to receive ANNICK GOUTAL AND CREED!!!
I particularly love Hadrien and like Mandragore very much. I do not like Creed (or their offspring Bond, except for the bottles maybe) but it will be a chance to try them more often 🙂 and probably get new releases too!! 😀 I hope they sell, cause here if they don’t sell, they are quickly taken from the market.
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On December 23, 2008 vanessa said:
I been away – and ill with a rotten cold – too ill to wear perfume but not to post my two pennyworth before Xmas…
1. Good value – Annick Goutal, Parfumerie Generale, Andy Tauer, Jo Malone and L’Artisan Parfumeur – if you don’t make silly mistakes like me and buy the wrong one ie L’Ete en Douce!
2. Niche bargains – not sure I know of any.
3. OTT – Armani Prive!!, By Kilian, Bond No 9, MCDI, Bois 1920, Chanel Les Exclusifs (because of having to buy the big bottles), and certain Guerlains, like my beloved Plus que Jamais. Roja Dove is borderline, but I love my Xmas bottle of Scandal EDP!
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On December 23, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
I agree on Armani Prive — they’re really nice but overpriced. I still haven’t tried any of the Roja Dove things.
Hope you’re better!
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On December 23, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
P, Isn’t Mandragore wonderful? I’d really like a bottle even though it doesn’t last on me.
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On December 24, 2008 joe805 said:
I hate to boast, but less than a week after sampling Mandragore this summer, I scored a large “men’s” bottle on ebay for less than $30. I really want to sample more AGs — only other I’ve tried so far is Chevrefeuille (which is nice for the sweet soliflore that it is).
For the record, my favorite lines have been L’Artisan, Ava Luxe, CdG (Incense & Red), The Different Company (LOVE those 10ml bottles) and I’ve been discovering Malle lately and can see myself investing in some of their 10ml sets and selling off the remainder on ebay. Good topic, which is obvious from the number of comments!!
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On December 24, 2008 NowSmellThis said:
Wow. You are a way better ebayer than I am! I want Mandragore for $30!!
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On December 25, 2008 SFLizbeth said:
Me too! That’s a great deal.
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On December 25, 2008 kaos.geo said:
Yeah, me too, I just don’t buy the “I dont wanna boast” part 😉
P.
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On December 25, 2008 Veronica said:
Chanel!
I think 180$ for 200ml is really the same price you would pay for 200ml of chanel 19 (~50$ for 50ml) if they had a bottle. So it’s no where near overpriced.
I adore les Mythiques by Givenchy and they also cost as much as everything else in 125ml bottle.
About Hermessence…I don’t think its more unique than Jardin series. But they are nice/ I won’t argue with that.
Dyptiques, SLs and Aqcua di Parma sertainly don’t go crazy.
Armanis do/ Clive Christian is a monster!
And about the others I don’t care much:)