Rhonda is our subject today. Rhonda is a petite brunette in her 50s and "in the throes of menopause", and therein lies her perfume problem: her sense of smell has "intensified tremendously". All of her old perfume loves no longer suit, so she'd like our help.
Up until a couple years ago, Rhonda wore Dolce & Gabbana's By Woman, and she found it "just about perfect". Now, it smells intolerably sweet to her. She also liked Bond no. 9's New Haarlem and some of the Montale Aouds, but they're likewise now too intense, too sweet, too flowery or too vanilla.
She'd like a new wood or spicy fragrance that doesn't make her gag, and she'd like her new scent to be $100 or less.
Rhonda does have reasonably good access to perfume stores, and she's willing to buy samples online.
A few more details about Rhonda's scent preferences: she'd like her perfume to be feminine — she finds citrus and herbal scents too masculine — but she doesn't care for florals or heavy amber. She also doesn't like leather, heavy aldehydes, iris, chypres, vetiver or powder.
Here are some of the scents she has tried in her search:
Serge Lutens Rousse, Five O'Clock Au Gingembre, Chergui, and Santal Blanc: all too sweet.
Sonia Rykiel Woman Not for Men and Bogner Wood Woman: too creamy sweet.
Tauer Perfumes L'air du Desert Marocain: too sweet.
Bvlgari Black: too strange.
Caron Tabac Blond: too sharp. She also didn't like Guerlain Mitsouko or Robert Piguet Bandit.
10 Corso Como, Diptyque Tam Dao, Donna Karan Wenge: all too "one note", and not as feminine as she'd like.
CB I Hate Perfume Lavender Tea Water, Serge Lutens Encens et Lavande and Caldey Island’s Lavender: too soapy and too masculine.
Other "no" scents: Estee Lauder Sensuous, Bond no. 9 Lexington Avenue, and everything she has tried from Parfumerie Generale, Sonoma Scent Studio, Tom Ford, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, Chanel (she tried most of the exclusive collection) and Ava Luxe.
There are, however, a few scents that almost work:
Miller et Bertaux For You No. 1: Rhonda owns this and likes the early stages, but by the end of the day, it's "pure, powerful, overwhelming pencil shavings".
Donna Karan Chaos: again, Rhonda really likes the early stages. Later, it's too musky.
Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille: It isn't perfect, but it's almost perfect. She wishes it were a bit more feminine, but it isn't too cloying, and it doesn't make her gag. It is, however, way beyond her price point.
What say you?
I'm stumped. I do think Rhonda might find it worth her while to try Donna Karan Black Cashmere, Parfums de Nicolaï Vanille Tonka, L'Artisan Vanilia and Comme des Garçons White, but I wouldn't lay money on any of them. I hope ya'll are going to have better ideas than I do.
Note: image is untitled, by Ric e Ette at flickr; some rights reserved.
Wow, this is hard. What about Hermes Eau des Merveilles? Too much amber, maybe? Good luck, Rhonda!
Kenzo Amour and Shalimar Light come to mind, though I second the PdN Vanilla Tonka. Have you tried PG Musc Maori?
I just received a sample of Brandy in the mail on Saturday and I'm thinking Rhonda may want to give this a try.
It's completely opposite of the heavy orientals that I prefer to wear. I'm kind of intrigued by it because it's not complex or heavy but rather light and warm at the same time and I love the light spices in it.
It can be found at LuckyScent for only $48.00! And you have the option of ordering a sample for only $3.00
Here are the notes:
apple, peach, herbaceous heart notes, spices
Good Luck Rhonda!
~~Dawn
How about Theorama? Or the Theorama light. I think you can still get these online. Also YSL Nu comes to mind – sheer floral woody.
ooops… forgot to mention Sienna Musk from Sonoma Scent Studio.
I've had the same problem since my 2nd child was born, so I do know where Rhonda is coming from. I've also found myself liking things I wouldn't have expected, so I'm ignoring some of what she said on that basis. I know she said she doesn't like floral… but maybe like me she just doesn't like flowery? I'm going with Annick Goutal's Le Chevrefeuille. It's light, feminine, not too sweet, and not really flowery, though floral based.
I think it will be hard to recommend anything, Rhonda has so many “don't”s but not enough ingredients she likes. It will be hard to say anything based on particular perfume notes she likes, the only way is to think of a perfume that's feminine but not too floral/sweet, not citrusy, not too ambery and not too vanillic… I have just bought a bottle of the new Shiseido Zen. This is somehow citrusy in the opening, but definitely NOT masculine at all. Then it is spicy, feminine but not a heady floral, oh no! This perfume does NOT belong to just one, particular olfactory family, just like Rhonda isn't sure what could work for her – so it's worth a shot.
Also if You are not sure what perfume is good for You, and almost everything makes You gag, I think that the best way is to avoid anything that's overpowering, and keep it simple at least for a while. For example, maybe she should focus on something light, transparent, feminine and not too sickly floral. How about Aqua Allegoria Flora Nerolia? Feminine, with a beautiful touch of orange, somehow floral – but never cloying, breezy scent? So youthful and transparent it will never make You sick.
I did express my concern to Robin that I hope I'm not a lost cause! I haven't tried that one but have sampled the Elixir des Merveilles and, again, it's the dry down that overwhelms me – too balsamic or incensey.
Rhonda
Hi Iris.
Thanks for the heads up on the new Zen. I like how you described it. I'll have to try it next time I am at the Shisheido counter.
~~Dawn
Hmm, maybe Bulgari Thé Vert? I'm also thinking she should sample some Kenzo scents because they can be very sheer and not cloying, but I don't have a specific rec.
I never thought I'd hear L'Air du Desert described as too sweet!
I actually have not heard of this one – I'll have to give it a try. Thanks for the recommendation!
Oops! I meant the Brandy.
2nd Theorema. That's what came to my mind right away.
Unfortunately, I can't seem to tolerate musk either and I haven't had much luck with the Sonoma's. But I appreciate the suggestion.
Dawn, great idea. I second the Brandy suggestion.
I am pretty stumped. I will suggest L'artisan Voleur de Roses (and Paestum Rose, but its a little over the price point I think)… and how about Miller Harris Geranium Bourbon? I am thinking dry and boozy but feminine since the Double Vanille was a keeper.
Robert Piquet Baghari and Benefit's Maybe Baby also might work.
good luck Rhonda!
Hi Rhonda,
You are welcome. I hope you do get a chance to sample the Brandy though. I know in the end it comes down to chemistry and personal preference. But….would love to hear your opinion on it if and when you try it.
Have a wonderful day and have fun with all the recs.
~~Dawn
I've tried Amour Indian Holi and found it too much on the creamy side of sweet and the Musc Maori was very sweet. I have not tried Shalimar Light but am not very fond of the original Shalimar – makes me feel old(er) since I remember it being quite ubiquitous back in my day.
Definitely have to try the PdN Vanilla Tonka. I'm very much leaning towards what I guess I would characterize as “dry” vanillas since I do like the SDV quite a bit.
Thanks SF. I just ordered a bottle of the perfume and lotion. I really like it even though it's completely of out my normal perfume preferences. ;0
~~Dawn
I don't think I've really tried Nu – maybe a spray at some point – I'll have to delve into it a bit more. I did sort of enjoy the Theorama but did not find it to be FBW.
Thanks for the recs, though!
By no means are you a lost cause. I had a similar problem when I was pregnant. Al l of my fave scents made me ill. What I discovered was though that I did find new scents that worked better for me and I also applied them in different ways than I nornally did before. For instance, try applying the scent to the back of your knees only and letting it waft up slowly to you. Also, instead of using the EDP or EDT, try the body lotion instead. That may be just enough and it won't annoy you after awhile. Play around with the lighter scents at Bath and Body type shops. When testing them, rub them in the crook of your arm and wear them for awhile. Good luck!
I half remember Velvet Rope being a dry-ish vanilla, but don't hold me to that.
Oooh! I was thinking of Nu, too! Not easy to find, though.
Vanille Eau de Toilette 50ml Spray by L'Aromarine which you can buy at Smallflower.com
Clinique, Simply
It truly was an unexpected aspect of menopause along with a lot of other surprises such as thinning eyelashes and eyebrows – and to think I was a unibrow as a teen! Will definitely branch out of my usual woody sphere and try the Le Chevrefeuille.
Thanks!
How about Ormonde Jayne Woman? It didn't work for me, but it's got a light woody-green thing going on that you might like, and I think the EDP is in your price range.
Hormones definitely muddle up your perfume perception; pregnancy and nursing altered either my sense of smell or my skin chemistry or both, and several scents I used to love now smell dreadful to me.
I'm certainly agree I'm a “don't” – much easier to state what I don't like than what I do. Thanks for the recommendations of Zen and Flora Nerolia. I'm going to add them to my “sample” list.
I have VR, it's quite sweet
Nu might work for you, Rhonda. Good luck!
I would suggest something out of the left field…
Armani White for Her.
I think the musky drydown on that one would be tolerable even for her “enhanced” sensibilities.
I agree on Black Cashmere, that would work too, but I believe that at one point it would turn overpowering (Black Cashmere has IMHO a “Surge” of smell some minutes after application, and that is just my personal opinion)
Paestum Rose is one of my favorite samples, but it's just not quite FBW, there's something a little too “sharp” about it. I think I've smelled Maybe Baby and it doesn't seem to have made an impression. Will explore the Baghari and Geranium Bourbon. Thanks for the suggestions!
I'm going to suggest a couple of “lighter” scents from the men's side that could well work.
Guerlain Coriolam: Transparent, green, earthy and unisex. It sits close to the skin and rewards a close sniff, but will not overpower you. I love it…
Jaipur Homme Fresh: This is a lighter version of Jaipur Homme, with a hint of citrus, but mainly exquisite powder. This has real presence for a transparent scent. Well worth a try…
Nicole Farhi Homme: A gorgeous transparent spicy scent with a hint of incense. A warmer, lighter compliment to the CdG incense series and highly recommended.
La Perla/Grigioperla Hedo: This a powedery green scent that I really love. Classy and understated.
All of these strike me as being best in warmer weather (in other words, they are lighter than many scents), but would still work well in the winter. They would also be terrific on a woman and I would think they would work well for someone whose sense of smell is temporarily intensified.
Rhonda, someone below mentions having the same problem after her 2nd child was born, and that reminded me that I couldn't bear fragrances when I was pregnant or immediately after. I didn't wear any for several years. Hope that won't happen to you, but if worse comes to worse, I suppose giving it up until your hormones settle down might be an option.
The new Amour Le Parfum is much darker & woodier, not nearly as sweet as Indian Holi. Might be worth a shot, don't know.
Forgive my spellings… Typing too fast…
That's Coriolan and powdery!
Ormonde Jayne Woman was one of the first fragrances I sampled when I discovered the world of perfumes outside the department store. It is quite beautiful, but contains something that has that “gets in my nose and throat” effect. Don't know what it is but it makes it unwearable for me.
I'm hoping the hormonal rollercoaster will settle down at some point . . .
I have a similar problem, Rhonda — well, not the “throes of menopause” part, but I have very odd skin chemistry that sweetens and intensifies anything I put on. If it starts out sweet and strong in the bottle, it'll definitely be sickeningly sweet and cloying on me after about an hour. When I want sheer woods that aren't too sweet, I go for Bvlgari Omnia, so that's my recommendation. Also, I second the Eau des Merveilles above — don't judge it based on your experience of the Elixir, they're really two different perfumes in my opinion. Good luck!
Hi Rhonda — given the way scents tend to overwhelm you in the dry down I'm guessing you will find a lot of these rec's too sweet (Theorema) or too incensy (Black Cashmere). I would give Eau de Merveilles a try–it's much dryer and more spare than the Elixir. And I second L'Artisan's Vanilia, which is a dry, slightly smoky, cardboardy kind of thing — no cookies in sight.
Also, have you thought about giving some iris scents a whirl? It might be just the kind of spare, un-sweet, feminine thing you need right now. You could start with one of Robin's faves, Hiris, which is quite cheap at the discounters–and you can often find tiny sample sprays online and on *bay. I love the warm, salty rose-iris of Antontia's Flowers Tiempe Passate, though there is a touch of musk in that, so sample first. The new Prada Infusion d'Iris (might be an option–sparkling and clear with a woody-ish dry-down.)
A couple more — L'Artisan's Mimosa pour Moi — it's not as floral as it sounds, since the flowers that give it it's scent are a bit woody to begin with. It's a very dry, spare, tender, transparent thing–extremely feminine without being cloying or sweet. After all your big scents it might seem too fleeting, but definitely worth a sample–spray if you can.
And and outlier–how about Comme des Garcons' Palisander? You might find it not feminine enough, but it's a gorgeous wood, for sure–like the inside of an exotic carved box that used to hold spices.
Whoa. Just re-read my comment and all of its horrible typos. Forgive! And make that Antonia, not Antontia!
And–darn!–just saw that you don't like iris. Ah well. Might be time to give it another try, anyway…
Are clean scents out? I always get sick of sweet scents right before my period, and it's on those days that I wear Cartier Eau de Cartier – every so slightly spicy unisex scent, but maybe a bit too laundry-clean?
How about Lalique's Encre Noir? This is woody and incensy and isn't strong- just drifts in and out all day without being overpowering. Also Dans Tes Bras- close to the skin and very scrumptious…
How about IF from apothia, Betsy Johnson , Narcisso edp Hanoe Morae, and do try the New Bulgari Jasmin Noir, get through the first 3-4 min. and it is very nice… good luck
Rhonda,
I see that Donna Karan has been mentioned. Black Cashmere is very pretty with soft woods & incense. You may also like her “Signature” which is a nice suede-y oriental. I am very happy with this one as something much different from most of my collection. You can get it at Nordstrom or Bergdorf Goodman.
You might like Miller Harris Terre d'Iris, which is an oriental woods of sort. Don't be put off by the iris part – it really is just prominent in name only. This one is a rich bergamot-y oriental with great lasting power and medium sillage. It is rich and warm and very sophisticated, even sexy.
You might also like the new Boucheron. It is a rich, but light oriental that is very wearable. It is by no means remarkable, but you might test it out.
You might try Chanel Boid des Iles. It is a very pretty light ambrette woods that is very very classy.
If you like white flowers, the new David Yurman is very pretty with white flowers sitting on a light woody base.
Good luck!
…that should read Chanel Bois des Iles….
Good suggestion, but I have yet to find a “clean” scent that doesn't turn to air freshener on me.
I had that thought too that perhaps unisex and men's scents would solve my problem, but I find them too masculine and I just can't carry them off. I have not tried your specific recommendations so it's worth a try to branch out a bit more.
Encre Noir was truly stunning at the start, but overwhelmihg again in the dry down.
Hi,
I completely agree with the suggestions for
Bulgari Jasmin Noir
Brandy
Black Cashmere
A little out of your price range but how about Montale's Woods & Spices? Not too sweet but very feminine.
And keeping with Shiseido, what about Femininite du Bois?
Good luck and have fun!
I'll second the Geranium Bourbon suggestion made above — my skin also turns many scents cloyingly sweet, but not this one. Plus it goes through several distinct stages, which is kind of fun.
But if even L'Air du Desert Marocain turns too sweet on you, then all bets are off!
Since I saw you like Paestum Rose, but found it too sharp (I suspect the cedar?) you might prefer Serge Lutens Miel et Bois. Sweet Honey with hot wood shavings flying fresh off the blade of a table saw.
Also, have you tried Montale's Aromatic Lime? The most gorgeous blend of lime and sandalwood imagineable. I believe it has now surpassed Aoud Queen Rose as my favorite. Within the price range in the 50 ml.
Good luck and enjoy!
I happened to spray some AA Neroli today…it's just a touch beyond orange flower water…great as a pick me up, and certainly not complex. Certainly should be safe.
Oh, Jasmin Noir is EXQUISITE! I never thought I would like it, but I adored it.
Along the same lines, I love Joe Malone's Dark Amber and Ginger Lily – I wore it all summer long to rave reviews from friends and more than one lover (it was a good summer). It was a limited release, so I have to buy it on eBay these days. I'm also enamored over Tom Ford's Black Orchid. Then again, if you didn't like Bvlgari Black, these might not be the right range for you.
I really think that the Caron men's line offers crossing-the-aisle potential, even if you don't like traditional “masculines.” Third Man and por Homme both rely on lavender, which is something I haven't seen come up in the comments yet…and lavender has a potential advantage as a “left field” option (I think a previous commenter was on to something there), as well as aromatherapy properties that might loan themselves well to the situation.
(Speaking of which…is there a scent which features rose geranium??)
Might I suggest Dior's Midnight Poison? It's mostly rose-patchouli-vanilla, but the rose is slightly sharpened and not flowery, the patchouli is clean and fresh, and the vanilla is warm but not cloying. The overall effect is dry and very sophisticated.
Of course, you might hate it. But I think it's joyous.
Speaking of Jo Malone, Rhonda, something easy to find is the newest release, Sweet Lime and Cedar. It's actually quite dry rather than sweet, not heavy or floral, light but not too light, a touch woody, and wonderfully fresh without being too bright. You might really like it!
Hi Rhonda! I wish you the best. I'm in my 50's also, and have experienced a mild change in taste toward less-sweet fragrances. Didn't realize that it might be hormones!
Do consider testing Eau de Cartier. IMO, it's not your ordinary “fresh” fragrance – it's a lovely, well-balanced green woodsy scent with a light touch of floral. I adore it!
I agree with Ann that Terre d'Iris is worth a try. It's different and beautiful – another fave of mine!
If you haven't tried Annick Goutal's Mandragore, it might be worth your attention. It's a unique spice/herbal mix, but not herbal in a man's aftershave sort of way.
Last, I highly recommend that you try Gres Cabaret. It's a dry woodsy rose-based fragrance. It's very pretty, subtly distinctive, and easy to find online at a good price. Finding this fragrance, for me, was like finding a dress that's flattering, feminine, comfortable, and somehow just right!
I love the smell of rose geranium! The only fragrance I've found that lists it specifically is Ayala Moriel's very pretty Cabaret.
Hi Rhonda. I hope you find something.
I came up with Beauty comes from within by Creative Visualizations, Peony in two by Stella McCartney, and there is another by Tauer that I am thinking of. OsMoz list's it under brands, and pick Tauer and you'll find the one I'm talking about.
You can also type your favorite notes into their search engine and a lot or just a few will come about along with descriptions.
You could also find body sprays like Victoria's Secret, and the
Body Shop, at least while your pregnant-your smell might revert.
Happy Looking,
Becca
I was going to suggest Tam Dao, but I just noticed you tried that one already, Rhonda.
So if I understand correctly, you'd need a feminine but not very sweet scent. For spices, how about Or des Indes? On me, that's an extremely gentle, well-behaved, feminine oriental. Costume National 21 is dryer and has more punch, though perhaps is a little less feminine than you'd like.
And a total wild guess, but for an interesting and definitely non-sweet scent: how about Olivier Durbano Tourmalin Noir (I think it's marketed as Black Tourmaline in the USA)? Burning leaves, incense, spices and wood. Could well fall under the “too weird” heading, though. In the same category: Montale's Amandes Orientales. The top notes tend to inspire strong (and negative) reactions in people, but I think the dry-down has that grown-up, dry (and realistic!) vanilla you like.
I should add that Olivier Durbano carries two other fragrances that are equally interesting, but perhaps easier on the nose. One citrus-incense and one jasmine-incense if I'm not mistaken.
Good luck!
I agree on the Black Cashmere and also I would give Femininitie de bois a go. It is hard to get a wood scent that doesn't come accross as masculine, as most woods that I can think of try to make a wood scent more feminine with vanilla and sweeten up the scent.
Thanks everyone for the recommendations. I know I will enjoy sampling all these wonderful scents. Better increase my perfume budget!
Donna Karan, Cashmere Mist and Laura Biagiotti, Acqua di Roma, both very fine femine fragrances, very tolerable too.
Hi Haunani!
I'll also second Mandragore. I was thinking about that one too, but wasn't sure about the brief citrus at the opening. I like this one a lot – it wears very much like a peppery tea on me with light violets. It's very refreshing too, and can be worn all year round.
Hey, I second this suggestion! Don't know why I didn't think of it before as I have been surprised by how much I like my sample…
That's funny, I've gone from liking very quiet fragrances to wanting more oomph (I just turned 40). I guess I won't go overboard stocking up on power scents if this period may not last that long!
Jo Malone, the Hermessences and l'occitane all seem to fit the bill since they are pretty linear and light.
Good luck!
Hi Rhonda, two scents come to mind, Paestum Rose by Eau d'Italie and Alahine by Teo Cabanel. I don't like sweet either and LOVE these two elegant beauties, you might like them too.
Maybe Rhonda should take a break from perfumes for a little while, then revisit some that she really liked but did not consider fbw.
My comment's a bit late, but how about Bvlgari au the Rouge? Not sweet at all, very crisp and fresh without being citrusy or masculine. A personal favorite of mine.