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The Monday Mail ~ help Caitlin find a new perfume

Posted by Robin on 13 October 2008 39 Comments

PostboxToday we're helping Caitlin find her new "everyday" fragrance. She's in her 20s and works as a lawyer in Phoenix, and says she doesn't know "a ton about perfume". Caitlin wore Ghost Deep Night as her signature daytime scent for many years, but she can't find a bottle anywhere now. She's tried a number of other scents in her search for a substitute, but so far, nothing fits.

A few details about Caitlin: she goes out a lot, loves trying new restaurants and bars, "especially cool little locally-owned downtown ones". She's a green-eyed brunette, loves dressing up, and is "incredibly stubborn, with a strong personality". She'd like a perfume to match, but she'd like us to find one that goes for $150 or less, and she'd be even happier if it was under $100. The new scent should be "adult, complicated and sensual".

Perfumes Caitlin has worn in the past include Christian Dior J'Adore (her "going out" scent), Coco Mademoiselle (her signature scent before she found Ghost Deep Night), Lolita Lempicka, Hermès Eau des Merveilles, Christian Dior Addict, Hanae Mori Butterfly (way too sweet for her now) Chanel Allure, Escada Ibiza Hippie and Sexy Graffiti, Ralph Lauren Romance (she wore this in middle school, now it's way too sweet).

Perfumes Caitlin has tried in her search and found ok but not quite right include Gucci by Gucci, Gucci II, Herve Leger, John Varvatos (not complex enough), Missoni (too much of a hippie scent), Harajuku Lovers Angel and Baby (she had heard that Angel and Deep Night shared notes, but she couldn't smell it and she wasn't happy with the poor lasting power), Burberry Brit (too light and subtle), Stella McCartney Stella and Gucci Rush (both worn by friends), Lanvin Eclat D'Arpege (too mature).

Perfumes that were an absolute no: Givenchy Very Irresistible, Armani Mania, Calvin Klein Euphoria, Armani Code (all four were too generic perfume-y), Versace Bright Crystal (too old, too pink), Valentino Rock 'n Rose (too young), Robert Piguet Fracas (tried to like it, but no), Yves Saint Laurent Opium and Guerlain Shalimar (not sure she likes orientals), Lancome Miracle (she got this as a gift and it made her sick), Ralph Lauren Ralph, DKNY Be Delicious (she'd rather not smell like apples), Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl and Davidoff Cool Water.

Caitlin does not like fragrances that are too green, too vanillic/foody, or too powdery.

What say you?

I'm at a disadvantage: I've never smelled Ghost Deep Night. According to the reviews at MakeupAlley, it is at least similar to the original Burberry by Burberry, now called Burberry Classic. I haven't smelled that one either, but it might be a sensible first stop for Caitlin if she's never tried it. Hoping you all are going to have better suggestions; please chime in!

And if any of you are interested in being the subject of a Monday Mail article, you can send an email to nowsmellthis at comcast dot net. The ideal subject knows at least a little about perfume — enough to say what s/he likes and doesn't like and to name a few fragrances that didn't work — but isn't so knowledgeable that they've already smelled most of the likely suspects.

Note: image is Civitella del Tronto, postbox by pizzodisevo at flickr; some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: monday mail

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39 Comments

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  1. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 10:43 am

    Hi Caitlain! I am not familiar with Ghost fragrances so I am at a loss for suggestions. I do however know of a reputable website that carries Ghost and ships to the U.S. Hope this helps if you cannot find a substitute.

    http://www.escentual.com/cgi-bin/Escentual.storefront/48f35d34031144a4271dc0a8650a067e/Catalog/100410

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  2. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 10:55 am

    Zazie, it's true, I no longer make personal recommendations, nor do I always take the time to suggest a Monday Mail article, sorry — there are days when it's really hard to get through the email at all. If you think you're a good candidate, send me another email.

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  3. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 10:57 am

    Judith, excellent — I checked a few US discounters, but didn't look overseas.

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  4. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 11:07 am

    If Fracas wasn't quite what you wanted, you might try Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia.

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  5. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 11:24 am

    I second the EL Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia!

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  6. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 11:27 am

    Did you actually go to any of those sites? Because it's out of stock everywhere I looked.

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  7. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 11:38 am

    Caitlin, my girlfriend loves (and wears) Deep Night! One of the reasons she was drawn to DN in the 1st place was that it reminded her of Hugo Boss Deep Red :) which I personally like better. To my nose, the Hugo Boss is more grown-up and sensual, with a lovely tart berry-sandalwood accord. And that's the first and last rec for the Hugo Boss line you'll hear from me ;-)

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  8. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 11:44 am

    Hi Caitlin! I've worn and liked many of the scents that you have, though am not familiar with Ghost Deep Night. Have you tried Miss Dior Cherie? Or what about something like Gucci Envy? Tom Ford Black Orchid Voile de Fleur is a great one to replace J'Adore for evening–love it.

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  9. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 11:47 am

    I second the EL PC TG for its loveliness of tuberose. Staying with the vibe of Coco Mlle (which I do know, though not the Ghost line), I would recommend Hugo Boss Femme (the pink one) and “maybe” Benefit's Maybe Baby, also CK Be and D & G The One, or possibly their new l'eau the one. Badgley Mischka is a great fruity number, too, as is Calyx by Prescriptives, and Sira des Indes by Jean Patou. I am not sure if I have addressed the sensual aspect properly, as I was focusing on the fruity side, but The One and Hugo Boss Femme and Sira des Indes I find quite slinky in their own ways!

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  10. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 11:51 am

    Hey, I googled GDN and it purports to be in stock at the following site- “at the online store.com”

    http://yhst-11861208480793.stores.yahoo.net/ghost-deep-night-womens-fw02720923.html

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  11. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 11:52 am

    Hmmm…I think it's the “tried it but not quite right” list that brings me to…Jean Paul Gaultier Classique. I can see Herve Leger being too sweet, Gucci by Gucci getting closer…the Eclat d'Arpege being a little too far…putting the Classique in a position, potentially, for just right. It does avoid green/vanilla/food/powder.

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  12. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 12:02 pm

    Hey, good shopping! Don't know that store though.

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  13. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 12:18 pm

    I 2nd the suggestions for EL Tuberose Gardenia, and also SJP Lovely.

    I'll also add:

    Lancome Magie Noire

    EL Sensuous

    Clinique Aromatics Elixir

    Bulgari Rose Essentialle

    Agent Provocatuer

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  14. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 12:21 pm

    My intuition's first impulse was for Caitlin to try Allure Sensuelle. It's floral but not overly oriental, along the stylistic if not literal lines of Coco Mlle and J'Adore, with some deeper, sexier notes she might be ready for. Also, Estee Lauder's Sensuous, if she's finding she's “getting closer” with Gucci by Gucci, might be worth looking at. She doesn't sound adverse to trying non-niche scents, and these are readily availabe and yet not being worn too, too widely. Happy hunting!

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  15. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 1:50 pm

    Caitlin is “screaming” for a more sophisticated “adult” scent.

    May I suggest:

    TOM FORD Japon Noir or CHANEL Coromandel.

    But neither one is less than $150 unfortunately :-(

    Run and buy your luxury fragrances now while you still can! With the government priniting more money, the $1000 will soon become the new $100…

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  16. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 2:54 pm

    Good call on the Maybe Baby! It is a great “day” scent and a great go-to scent when you don't want or have time to think about it…(This was my everyday scent for my first two years of law-school- and I know you know what those were like ;-)

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  17. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 3:49 pm

    Is it cheating to recommend trying this site?
    http://www.scentmap.com/
    I found it helpful and fun (I'm not related to anyone who runs it :) )

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  18. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 5:44 pm

    Yay, I actually have a recommendation! My recommendation would be to try 'L'Heure Magique by Laura Mercier, described to me as a sheer oriental, it reminds me a lot of the classic Burberry, and I think it's warm but subtle enough for daytime. It's available at Nordstroms and pretty affordable, the Edp is $75. Hope this helps!

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  19. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 7:57 pm

    I agree with these recs! Also, the orig Black Orchid!

    Try Prada! Try the new Secret Obsession.

    Good luck!

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  20. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 7:59 pm

    And try Notorious too. I really like it. I think it smells like birch beer. It just doesn't smell notorious.

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  21. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 8:09 pm

    Sorry for the chain of posts–this is how my brain works now that I try to be a lawyer and a mom!

    Try Diesel Fuel for Life. Someone said Sensuous–I second. Have you never tried Angel? Was that somehow not on your list of things to sniff? Well, you must of course try it. Angel is stubborn. Try Coney Island.

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  22. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 8:13 pm

    Caitlin, the Hermes Vetiver Tonka & Osmanthe Yunnan are in the Hermessence collection, at Hermes boutiques only. You could buy decanted samples at The Perfumed Court.

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  23. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 8:14 pm

    Caitlin, Cony Island is by Bond no. 9. Sensuous is by Estee Lauder. Angel you can probably figure out, but it's Thierry Mugler.

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  24. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 8:26 pm

    Yeah, it's like the Varvatos is almost there, but not quite…

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  25. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 8:28 pm

    This is the original advice seeker, Caitlin. Thank you guys so much for all of your help! I was getting desperate. Now I have a great list to work from!

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  26. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 9:00 pm

    If she is looking for “adult, complicated and sensual” Shiloh by Hors la Monde would be perfect.
    Here is Robin's review: https://nstperfume.com/blog/_archives/2007/9/3/3199856.html

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  27. Anonymous says:
    13 October 2008 at 9:16 pm

    Laughing because that was one of the first things that popped into my mind, but since I also recommended it last week in a Monday Mail article, I decided it was just a case of tired brain.

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  28. Anonymous says:
    14 October 2008 at 3:53 am

    A couple of other thoughts, moving away from my previous fixation on soft fruit, and thinking about the sensual aspect:

    Bvlgari Omnia Crystalline, or Jasmin Noir (not too powdery), or the new DSQUARED she WOOD which is better than Sensuous in my book, or Roja Dove Scandal, if you could settle for a decant, which is smooth and creamy and sultry, or JM Kohdo Woods Night, if you could get it in any kind of container at all!

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  29. Anonymous says:
    14 October 2008 at 4:22 am

    I second giving Agent Provocateur a go – I have a soft spot for the original (I wear it in the daytime and the evening but you may prefer to save it for evening wear – unless you're planning to seduce the opposing council ;-))
    How about Ormonde Jayne 'Champaca'? – Robin's review namechecks J'Adore as containing Champaca and although not quite my thing it is a beautiful, sophisticated scent. In fact, I'd recommend treating yourself to the OJ sampling set as they are all such beautiful compositions – I think you'd also enjoy Frangipani and Osmanthus. Full bottles retail at £65 so should fit into your budget – especially as the £ is finally weakening against the $! They really are worth every penny (or cent!)
    (Damn, I'm now wishing I'd squirted on OJ Woman this morning rather than Rochas Femme!)

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  30. Anonymous says:
    14 October 2008 at 4:26 am

    Oh – and just typing this has reawakened my lust for all things OJ! I can see another purchase in my not too distant future. Even my other half who *never* wears aftershave has fallen for Ormonde Man I'm delighted to say. Guess what he's going to find under the Xmas tree this year?! :-D

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  31. Anonymous says:
    14 October 2008 at 7:17 am

    Yes, those floral OJs are lovely, also Sampaquita. I just tested D & G L'Eau the one on skin and it is very pretty – described as a “white” perfume in one review, where The One is “gold”, and I would agree with that.

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  32. Anonymous says:
    14 October 2008 at 7:57 am

    Hi Caitlin,
    I'm new to NowSmellThis, but thought I'd offer a suggestion anyway – did you ever try Rive Gauche by YSL?? I can never smell it on myself – but its a great one for day and night and I often get positive comments – male and female. Good luck in your search. :-)

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  33. Anonymous says:
    14 October 2008 at 10:36 am

    Also by YSL, try Yvresse. Although it's a fruity-chypre with definite nectarine, it's not a 'young' fruity fragrance. I think it's sophisticated and sexy while still being youthful. The top notes have a strange discord on my skin, but the dry down gets spicier and complex over time.

    It's my go-to for daytime and sometimes evening (depending on what I'm doing) and my husband loves it!

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  34. Anonymous says:
    14 October 2008 at 12:16 pm

    Caitlin – I loved Ghost Deep Night, too – and I'm on a strict budget, so what I'm suggesting are inexpensive possibilities:

    Alfred Sung, Jewel; Isabella Rosellini, Manifesto; Alfred Sung Sung; Burberry, Weekend;

    If you're willing to try decants (less juice, but less money): Fragrances of Ireland Ines Or; Antica Farmacista, Vaniglia, Bourbon & Mandarino; Heeley, Cuir Pleine Fleur

    Good luck!

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  35. Anonymous says:
    14 October 2008 at 12:21 pm

    Here are two opposites. How about Elixir de Merveilles by Hermes (edgier than the Eau de Merveilles) or Bvlgari Vert Extreme or Omnia or Black by Bvlgari?

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  36. Anonymous says:
    14 October 2008 at 12:33 pm

    My first comment – I'll second Magie Noir suggested above – always a good choice – very dark, complicated and sensual, for sure!

    I think Caitlin should try the Tom Ford White Patchouli. I think this is a great sexy scent. It is very similar to Prada (the original one) – but it has a lot of “action” and a sexy creamy dry down. This is sexy and sophisticated….could definitely be a signature scent.

    You also may like the new Estee Lauder PC Amber Ylang Ylang – I was just surprised to really really like this one as my new day scent…it is lighter than I normally like, but really warm, and NOT sweet. Hey, I normally wear Coco this time of year, so this vanilla/amber/labdanum is really special. Not a lot of sillage, but great lasting power.

    I think you may also want to try Miller Harris Geranium Bourbon – a really warm, sexy rose that definitely can be worn during the day, and all year round. It is not rose like you would normally think of a rose perfume. Could be unisex on the right man – very nice – and you won't smell yourself coming or going.

    I'll also throw in Chanel 31 Rue Cambon as a very excellent scent for day. Supremely sophisticated and wearable — lasts all day with great medium sillage.

    You may also like Baghari if you want something more classy, but still very wearable and not too expensive.

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  37. Anonymous says:
    15 October 2008 at 8:09 pm

    I'd also add :
    Bond No 9 Bryant Park and West Side
    Miller Harris Coeur d'Ete
    Balman Ambre Gris

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  38. Anonymous says:
    17 October 2008 at 10:42 pm

    Very late to the party here, but I used to wear many of the same fragrances, and I spent my twenties enamored over Bvlgari Pour Femme. Now I'm taken with Jasmine Noir, but I guess that, as I move into my 30s, I'm supposed to start loving more woody scents.

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  39. Anonymous says:
    19 October 2008 at 4:17 pm

    Hi all,

    I was searching for good cologne deals and discovered that perfumenetwork.com has Ghost Deep Night in stock and as low as 19.99! Thought that many would like to know since it seems to be getting a lot of love!

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