I have only been on vacation a few days, and I've already managed to lose track of what day it is...so here is the Monday mail, one day late. This week's subject is Namita, who comments here as Nam. Here is what we know about Namita:
She's a college student in her early 20s.
She is multilingual and lives in a big city.
She goes out clubbing frequently, but also considers herself to be "fairly serious" for her age.
Namita loves classical music/old school and alternative hiphop/jazz.
Namita is looking for an evening fragrance, and specifically, she wants to find something "louder" than what she usually wears. Her current rotation includes:
Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia: a favorite for day.
Bond no. 9 Chinatown: Namita finds the opening cloying, but loves the gorgeous dry down.
Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl: "Lovely, just not heavy enough to be an evening fragrance."
Chanel Chance Eau Fraiche: Namita bought this but now finds it too cloying.
Notes that Namita likes include incense, sandalwood, patchouli, jasmine, tuberose, lily of the valley, rose. She does like soliflore fragrances, but not for her evening scent.
She does not like "anything overly gourmand or overly sweet" or "heavy-handed with vanilla or fruit", and some perfumes she particulary dislikes include Christian Dior Hypnotic Poison, Kenzo Amour Indian Holi, Bond no. 9 Scent of Peace, anything from Lavanila.
Here are some heavier fragrances that Namita likes, but that don't quite fit the bill for her perfect evening fragrance:
Gucci by Gucci: "A little too much sillage".
Frederic Malle Une Rose: "Amazing", but too much of a "blatant rose" to fit as her evening scent.
Donna Karan DKNY Delicious Night: "Too much fruit".
Guerlain Shalimar & Eau de Shalimar: Just not her.
Jean Patou Joy: not dark enough for evening.
What say you? I ought to have come up with something perfect, but was too busy forgetting what day it was. Please help!
The Monday Mail will be on hiatus next week; look for a new post on Monday, August 25.
Note: image is a cropped version of Letter box by rgtmum at flickr; some rights reserved.
I'm terrible at this; my skin is weird and nothing smells the same on me as anyone else, but what they hey, we can try.
For anyone who likes incense, I'd suggest Dzongha for its sophisticated incense and interest. If it's not enough for evening, add a spritz of Safran Troublant and you have an amazing blend.
For a wonderful fragrance that combines just a bit of linden (but not enough to knock you over) with citrus, a hint of floral and the cleanest musk I've smelled, I recommend Clear by Neil Morris. Fabulous! Day to night works with this.
If you want a stronger sillage, try Maitre et Gantier's Fraiche Passiflore. Yes, it does smell of passionfruit, but the jasmine takes the fruitbowl smell and makes it quite fetching with a great, bright sillage.
A wonderful floral with a great drydown is Del Rae's Bois de Paradise. They have a body cream and you can add to the strength by layering.
Hope one of those works for you, Namita!
Maybe Black Cashmere, since it's back? I think of it as a good night/winter scent but don't know how it compares to what she hates.
Maybe something by Serge Lutens? Rousse, though it may be a bit too cloying. Or Daim Blond, my favorite – very evening:)
I am going through a love affair with Montale and wonder if she has tried any of the ouds. These last forever and make wonderful evening scents.
When I read “Sandalwood” I thought of Guerlains's Samsara. It's readily available and affordable On the other hand, she might like to try some of the Frederic Malle scents, if there's a Barney's in town. Not Carnal Flower, but there are others……
What about Mitsouko?
I always reckon everyone has a Guerlain that matches them and I always say to try the classics first: since Shalimar doesn't do it, try Mitsouko, Vol de Nuit and L'Heure Bleu. (I doubt Jicky would make the cut because of its vanilla content.) I'm not sure if L'Heure Bleu has enough loudness to be an evening perfume, but Mitzy and Vol certainly do.
I tried Ava Luxe's No.23 yesterday and thought that was fabulous – woody and incensy with scented geranium leaves. Not sweet at all. Beautiful.
Oh and what about Femininite du Bois? Now I know it's not available in the US, but it is certainly around here in Europe and Serge says he's going to reissue it as part of his line, so it's on the way back. To me, the base of Dolce Vita smells exactly like it, so try DV and see what you think. Also perhaps the Bois series from Serge Lutens, since they were based on the original FdB.
On a similar thought as Black Cashmere, if you see a bottle of YSL's discontinued incense, Nu, try that. Incense and orchids. Gorgeous. Black Cashmere is fabulous. And did I read that DK's Chaos is an incense too?
Finally, everyone seems to be raving about EL's new one, Sensuous. Perhaps that's worth a try?
Perhaps Kenzo Oriental? Wonderfully incensey. I also like the Samsara suggestion.
Hi! Have you tried Fracas? If you love tuberose and jasmine, you will probably love that sultry and loud perfume party – and not quite a soliflore. In another direction, if you don't find them too cloying, I second the recommendation of montales: for instance, black aoud's very rich rose/oud/sandalwood (with hints of leather) would make a very seductive evening perfume. (I have only smelled it a long time ago, but you might also like aoud roses petals: so far as i remember, the overall feel is much lighter and fresher than the other montales ouds, while nonetheless being deep.) My last suggestion would be l'Idole de Lubin. It would be a stretch to call it a loud perfume (to me loud would rather be gucci Rush, or Fracas), but it's definitely assertive. It's a truly stunning and radiant rendition of perfumistic darkness, infinitely seductive and intoxicating. Good luck!! b.
I'm not sure if it's loud enough, but how about Chanel No. 22? It has that incensey sophisticated floral thing going on. Or perhaps even Bois des Iles, if she wants to $$$?
Caron Parfum Sacre has a nice incense & soft rose notes. Maybe too soft?
Maybe Givenchy Organza – a rich, warmish floral?
I second Montale – there are just so many of them – she's bound to find one dark, interesting fragrance that will be right.
Ysitis by Givenchy
Ysatis is lovely, great rec!
Serge Lutens Un Lys–It's strong, sophisticated, and really stunning. This one doesn't categorize well–even white-floral-haters like myself usually can't resist this one–but to me it's definitely an evening scent. It does NOT, btw, smell like red-and-white florist lilies. (It smells exactly like Casablanca lilies, which are quite a different matter.)
You can try it for free, anyway; just write Serge Lutens and ask for their wax sampler set.
I'll third Ysatis. I kind of thought of this one too, but wasn't sure if it was too heavy. It's a great scent!
Going with incense and flowers, especially tuberose in mind, I would suggest she try Creed's Tubereuse Indiana and MDCI Enlevement au Serail. I'm not particularly fond of either of those though, but both have devoted fans. Scents that are lovely that she might like include Narciso Roderiguez for Her, which has no incense but is like Gucci by Gucci with less sillage and no fruit, so I think she will probably like it. Also Black Cashmere and maybe Montale Aoud Roses Petals. She could even try Ormonde Jayne Champaca as it is a floral with light incense notes, but she has to like green tea too to appreciate that one.
I second the Fracas! That was the first scent that came to me when I read this.
I just tried Bal a Versailles yesterday for the first time, and I thought it was super sexy and evening apropo (and talk about a good deal at discounters)
Chanel Sensual Elixir (might be too sweet/strong but very sexy…not really a clubbing evening, more of a some enchanted evening
If she likes Chinatown, sounds like the new Lexington Ave. is worth a try…
Also, Andy Warhol Silver Factory has got to be one of the best incense fragrances on the market (In my sort of humble opinion), so Nam should definitely give it a sniff. (And if it is a hit, I recommend checking Ebay, b/c I have seen it devastatingly cheaper than some of us paid at saks)
How about Serge Lutens Datura Noir or Ormonde Jayne Tolu?
FYI, Ysatis also comes in a gel/cream, that is both rich and fluffy-light, it absorbs well. I'm pretty sure they still make it and it's a nice substitute in place of a perfume spray.
I'm thinking Carnal Flower…It's “loud,” but it is gorgeous for an evening out.
Divine's L'Inspiratice would be DIVINE on her! Mmmmmm
Meant to add, how about Van Cleef & Arpels First?
I think Ormonde Jayne Ta'if would work. It is fantastic for evening and is an unusual exotic rose.
Some days I love this and some days I can't tell. The sandalwood base is great and what seems to be most prominent on me after about one hour. Of all the aldehydes it is one of my favorites – more subdued and not screaming for attention. Very sophisticated, and not that common. I've almost bought a bottle of this a number of times. It also has that great Jean-Claude Ellena history….
If we're looking at drop dead wonderful Mysore sandalwood – how about Heure Exquise? I probably sound like a broken record about this Goutal, but I am truly in love with it. I could dump it over my head and wander around dazed and happy because of the wonderful nutty iris and dry as a bone sandalwood…..
Must agree. Spraying is too much; I decant and sort of smear it on. It wears very well in the heat.
The edp is so beautiful. Very strong sandalwood drydown.
Oooh, that sounds wonderful. I will give it a sniff for sure.
Do you know where the Montales can be found? I don't think I've ever seen them.
Hey Robin, thanks for the article! I'm drafting a list of potential sniffs.
How about:
Parfums de Nicolair Sacrebleu -white florals over incense
Chanel Allure Sensuelle-Lots of patchouli .
Caron- Narcisse Noir or Parfum Sacre- both dark and intriguing but with different characters.
Montales can be found at Aedes De Venustas and Luckyscent.
Hi Nam, definitely second the Montales that have been mentioned this is by far my all time favorite line of perfumes. Oud Queen Rose is also very sexy and rich and my personal fave. The best (like we're talking $50.00 a bottle lower than elsewhere) to buy Montale is The Perfume Shoppe.com. They have a great sample program too. You might also try Lorenzo Villoresi Incensi, they carry that line as well. Also check out Chanel Allure Sensuelle (try Fragrancenet.com) Enjoy!
Annie B mentioned Ormonde Jayne Ta'if and I completely agree. A smashing evening fragrance imo, with both rose and jasmine, along with lots of other beautifully blended notes. Some fruit notes, but so lightly done-nothing “fruity floral” about this little lovely!
I also cast a vote for sampling some Montales. I think Black Aoud is exquisite.
I might also suggest sampling L'Artisan Voleur de Roses (a complex patchouli/rose) and Amouage Jubilation 25.
Hi Namita! I Iove florals and dislike the same things you do. So I'm riding on your wake
I was thinking: Fleur D'interdit by Givenchy, or I am thinking Fleur D”Privee. They have got a fragrance called D'Interdit, but this one is in a beautiful ornate bottle. You'll love the notes that are in it.
Chamade by Guerlain, it's just “Heartbreakingly beautiful”
Micheal Kors EDP or Perfume is a perfect marriage of tuberose and Moroccan incense (the EDT loses some of it's incenseness). And lastly Stella in Two Peony. I adore it. It has beautiful flowers and contrasting sexy amber patchouli dry-down I also agree with Givenchy's Organza, it's got the notes too.
I'm not an expert on niche scents yet, except for La Chasse a Papillons and Annick Goutal but I'm getting there. I hope some of these help.
Good luck and Joy,
Becca
Hi, you can go to montale.com and email them and they will send you a price list. They will ship directly to you. I am in Australia and I get them with no problems. if you want to sample them then the perfumed court should be able to help you out.
Second the Ta'if, and Black Cashmere, and Feminite du Bois. Or how about Guerlain Plus que Jamais (beautifully wearable oriental floral) – a decant would be a way to go as the full bottles are off the scale pricewise.
Yes, yes! Or Bois des Iles? Or Organza Indecence? Am just testing this as I type and it appears to have woods and patchouli from the off.
Chamade – absolutely! I wondered about Organza Indecence earlier, as I was just trying it out, but would go with Organza rec instead, as I think Indecence may be a bit vanilla-y.
i am not quite sure as i fall out with it: givenchy amarige.
Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir has a more prominant incense note..beautiful fragrance. Opium by YSL is a classic but timeless beauty great for evening wear.
Fracas, Fracas, Fracas! Namita should try that for sure.
And maybe Carolina Herrera. It's tuberose that's loud and fun and a tad fruity, but not too much, IMO.
Juicy Couture might work as well.
I have to repeat, if she likes tuberose and incense, Namita must try Sacrebleu by Parfums de Nicolai.
She may also consider Prada EDP iIntense, which is earthy patcholi and amber with soft florals and spices.
I tried Incense Noir by Ava Luxe recently. The incense notes are lovely and the drydown is orris butter, It is lovely!
I was also impressed by Jubilation XXV (the men's version) although that might be too sweet in the opening for her.
Thanks everyone who's made suggestions on this thread! I'm still testing all the names I've jotted down. I really appreciate your help!