De Swardt denies the naming of the perfumes was a deliberate strategy to court controversy. "My aim in the beginning was to have a gallery of excitement for perfumers," de Swardt says. "The names were mostly to leverage emotion from the perfumers, to get them into a true zone of sexuality and sensuality. The usual perfume names are so ubiquitous, such as Beauty or Love, that it is difficult to do something different. I didn't want to go into that commercial story, but yes, in the end the names do become that (controversial)."
— Etienne de Swardt of Etat Libre d'Orange talks to columnist Georgina Safe of The Australian, in A whiff of scandal.
Yeah, right, pull the other one!
The article is slightly more interesting that the usual pandering fluff…and M. de Swardt certainly has a more offbeat approach than the giant conglomerates.
I'm not a particular fan of his line's names so I don't know if their provocative nature sells the juice or not – but I love his explanations of the names.
LOL!
Agree — nice article. Don't think I buy the “not trying to be provocative” argument, but oh well. I'm liking the new Tom of Finland scent so I'm feeling charitable towards EldO at the moment, LOL…
It was a very interesting article and I'm definitely more curious about the line now — however, I do feel a twinge of guilt about this “hobby” of mine because it sort of spawns a world where someone can make millions on “Oh My Dog.”
And is he seriously trying to say that the raw materials cost of ELdO is 5- to 8-times that of mainstream fragrances, but they're able to sell at 55 euro for 50ml because the bottles are cheap? Seems a little exaggerated (at least the 500-800 euro formulations bit).
I don't think he meant *only* because the bottle is cheap, I thought he just meant that because he is using high cost ingredients, he needs to stick to a relatively cheap bottle.
Whatever he meant, it is clear that one of the main reasons most perfumes use very cheap ingredients is because so much of the $$ must be reserved for advertising & PR. And of course, profit.
I understand — it's just that the math didn't seem to add up: he says “When you develop a fragrance for a big house, the cost of the formulation is usually E70 ($110), but with Etat Libre d'Orange it's usually between E500 and E800”.
Yet the scent sells for E55/50ml? Maybe I don't understand what he means by “the formulation” (i.e., how much actual bottled fragrance does that “formulation” make?). And it's still hard to believe that ELdO's raw ingredients are THAT exponentially more expensive.
Speaking of cheap ingredients: I bought a decant of the Marc Jabobs Pear Splash and it smells magnificent for about 15-20 minutes before it dries down to a nauseating cheap synthetic base. Sometimes you get what you pay for…?
The cost of the actual ingredients is usually expressed per kilo…and I don't know for sure but assume that is meant to include the fragrance materials only, not the liquid used to dilute.
That has been my experience w/ all the MJ Splashes: they put all the $ in the top notes, after that, it's just some cheap musk. In that case, I'd say you're not even getting what you paid for since the Splashes are not THAT cheap — so you're paying for the MJ name.
I don't buy it either. It's one thing to use a titillating phrase or image to inspire your perfumers in the creation stage, but it's quite another to actually have that phrase be the *name* of the perfume. I kind of admire his chutzpah, though. He left the one of world's largest luxury conglomerates, with all it's money and marketing, to create perfume for DOGS? I couldn't do it!
I have been a fan of Etienne de Swardt and his edgy perfume range for some time now and I own several bottles of his fragrance line as well. We have communicated by email on several occasions and he seems a delightfully sane and attractive person.
I'm pleased that such a man has taken perfume beyond just smelling 'nice' and given us perfume with a bite and personality.
ELd'O perfumes are not for the ordinary nor faint-hearted connoisseur among us and definitely aimed at a very niche group – and you KNOW who you are if you like the product!
Let's give Etienne a break and just accept that his perfumes exist and have made headlines in the perfume world. The popularity and notoriety of his fragrances reflect his successes. Vive le parfum!
Gosh, but can't think of where on earth I'd least like to work than LVMH — ugh!
He does not need me to give him a break, LOL…he's doing just fine I'm sure.
Might I add, he is a BABE! I am yet to smell any of the perfumes but if they are as yummy as him I will want them all!
Really? I'll have to go look at his picture again…
Perfume names pull me in. If the fragrance has a unpleasant name, it influences my decision to buy it. If I had a perfume I would call it “Come into My Parlor” or for a soft floral “Tenderness”. I've got several hundred names. Do they hire people for that? Duh, marketing.
I Just do it for fun. I've missed y'all. I have been sick. So Howdy from Kansas
-Joy, Becca
Glad you're better!
I do wonder how the big companies come up with names. I assume most of them test-market, right? Sounds like you've got your next career all picked out 🙂
Thank you Robin. My favorite name is “The Heart is Deceitful Above All Things” which, given the $600 price tag-would be redundant if you bought it.
That really is a great name. I also like the simpler (and cheaper!) L'Ombre dans L'Eau.