I thought 2006 was a great year for niche fragrance, maybe not so wonderful for mainstream perfumes. In 2007, the pendulum swung: I thought it was a fabulous year for mainstream fragrances; the niche showings were perhaps not so interesting. This year is not even half over so perhaps it is too early to start kvetching, but other than a few isolated bright spots, it seems like a dull year all around. I was looking this morning at the (considerable) list of fragrances we're expecting to launch between now and the end of the year, and there are really only a few I'm excited about.
What do you think? Good, bad, indifferent? And are there any upcoming launches you are really excited about?
Note: image via the forums at Images de Parfums.
It has been quite a good year for me so far. I love Lancome's new Peut-Etre, and I like Serge Lutens Five O'Clock au Gingembre, which has gotten lukewarm ratings from most people (I'll probably like it a lot more in the fall, actually). Was Cruel Gardenia released this year? I really liked that one, too, though I can't bring myself to pay over $200 for it.
It hasn't all been good, though. While I liked the Apres la Mousson at first, it later became far too aquatic-melony for me.
I've liked a few things too — just think overall, it hasn't been a stellar year so far. Despite that, I'm spending more though!
A couple of weeks ago I was searching for something to love and was about to complain about a poor year, but then within a span of a few days, I managed to discover several very good fragrances. AG new collection alone makes this year worthwhile for me!
I haven't seen the new Jardin après la Mousson yet and I didn't love any of the new Goutals (I like Ambre fétiche but sure not enough to buy a bottle). For me the most exciting news of the year so far has been Tauer's Incense rosé and I'm looking forward to smelling the new vetiver he said he would launch next fall/winter. I have tried the new Eau d'Italie Magnolia romana but found it rather meh, while I love Sienne l'hiver and Paestum rose and like the other two.
But I must confess I fantasize daily about a new Ormonde Jayne and a new Malle fragrance…
I liked the AG collection very much, but I am not *wild* about them. And I like quite a few other niche scents, but can't think offhand of a single wonderful mainstream release this year
Incense Rose is great. But we had the same reaction to Magnolia Romana — huge disappointment for me, since I adore Bertrand Duchaufour. You're right — we need a new Ormonde Jayne or Frederic Malle! Although I didn't adore French Lover, for that matter. Or Outrageous.
The only thing I could think of is the upcoming Estee Lauder. Looking over your list, nothing else moves me. I was excited about Mousson, but to no avail, it is “all melon, all the time”.
Having said that, I *can* think of several snarky remarks to make about some of the titles on your list. To wit:
Avon Fire Me Up, Make Me Wonder, Make Me Smile – is that all one scent? Talk about three faces of Eve…
I am looking forward to the new EL too — just doesn't seem like a whole ton of great stuff is coming, at least so far. If it helps, the Avon will be a trio — although “Make Me Wonder” strikes me as possibly ASKING for snarky
That's OK, I can find more food for snark there.
Wonder what Marilyn Manson will do? Seriously. If he does something boring I will be irritated. Secretions could be his scent, though…. the Harajuku things will probably be awful, but the bottles are so cute. And ffffrozen makes me gggggigggle.
More important: do you have notes for Kenzo Peace? What does the original Peace ($200 on eBay) smell like, same scent? Tell me it's a milky woody…
I think the notes for a Marilyn Manson fragrance should be new pennies, fresh vinyl, saline solution, pomade, caked make-up, and dry ice.
I am still in the process of discovery in my perfumista progression – how's that for some alliteration? So lots of things are new to me, even though they're not new releases. That being said, I am looking forward to trying Chanel Sycomore at some point, but I'm in no hurry. I might even wait until the ChiCocoa Scentsation. My sniffing opportunities are pretty limited where I live. Prada Infusion d'Iris is about the prettiest new scent I've tried, and I want a bottle, but I can wait until I've finished my decant. I'd rather buy another bottle of Black Cashmere than just about anything new that I've read about.
Apparently I'm in no hurry about Sycomore either, since I still haven't tried it! It does sound nice, but nothing I've heard indicates that it's earth shattering.
I suppose I ought to be concentrating on catching up with old releases too…there isn't much else to do!
It's been a reasonably good year for me – new bottles of Andy Tauer's Incense Extreme, Parfumerie Generale L'Oiseau de Nuit, and the AG Ambre Fetiche and Encens Flamboyant. Very disappointed with the latest Hermes, but oh well, can't have it all. I don't have an overwhelming feeling of “wow it's a great year” however. To me it's just average.
I also am catching up…on everything ever made that is fit to be sniffed, lol. I did buy the new Guerlain AA Figue Iris scent. Tried both AA's, and both are great for fresh, fun summer scents. I also really liked the Laurier Reglisse, but have Mandarine Basilic, so I sort of have the bright citrus idea covered. I also bought EL Bronze Goddess which I love.
I was very disappointed in Tauer's Incense Rose. I like L'air du Desert Marocain, and I can tell Incense Rose has a similar base. However, the top notes really nauseated me. It is definitely a no go!
I tried JLo's Deseo, and was very pleased initially, thinking I had found a great “cheap and cheerful”. Then, when the beachy top notes disappeared, it turned into yet another chemical white floral/white musk.
I tried Eau de Shalimar, although I am not certain we can really say it is a new release–maybe more of a re-release. I liked it, although it doesn't to its parent scent. On its own merit it is quite nice.
I am looking forward to the new EL and also Chanel's re-release of No. 5 Eau Premiere.
There are a couple new ones we're expecting that I haven't seen mentioned on NST… Nicole Miller for women, St. John (for women), and a new Basgley Mischka. Have you heard anything?
I've smelled Sycomore and I don't think it's earth-shattering either, although it is nice. But I am looking forward to a few in 2008, incl. EL Sensuous, Cartier Roadster, maybe the new J. Malone. And the Playboy debut fragrance! curious about that one. Too bad Olivia Giacobetti is releasing (hopefully) in 2009, and not 2008…
And what's this about a Marilyn Manson fragrance? Got to check that one out. Now I know what to get my dad for Xmas.
I am looking forward to Sensuous and Coral Flower. They both are due in July which is not far off. Whee!
From the list, I'm just interested on Roadster – Cartier, since I love the brand, and Tom Ford Extreme. Will it be a new juice? I've the first extreme and I think it's very sophisticated, from the package to the juice itself. I'd like to also have this new version, if different, in my collection.
I'm looking forward to sniffing a few new ones (Mousson, new Different Co), but you're right: the year seems just *meh*.
For me, this year has been all about oldies but goodies: Balmains, Diorella, Cabochard. I feel as though my tastes have matured to the point where I can now appreciate the classics, rather than just wrinkling my nose and exclaiming “old lady!” So delving into chypres, leathers and the like has been my biggest joy. I'll still never wear Chanel No. 5, though.
Oh, he said something once to the press that implied he had something in the works, but have never seen an “official” announcement from a fragrance company, so it may have been just off the cuff rambling.
No. 5 Eau Premiere is really nice — I got to smell it when it was at Saks late last year. So sorry Incense Rose didn't work for you! We are opposites, I like it better than Desert Marocain.
I think I am having an overwhelming feeling of “wow it's a dull year” — or else I'm just overtired this week.
I didn't love L so not excited about CF, but the Sensuous I do have high hopes for.
I unfortunately have a bit of trouble with all of Tauer's scents–I like some of them very much, but they really close up my throat, a bit like Narciso Rodriguez and most of the Ormonde Jayne scents. Combine that with nausea, and it is not a great perfume experience, lol
I am pleased to hear you like the No. 5 Eau Premiere–I have a sample from Perfumed Court which I have been wearing. It still has a bit of the aldehyde soapyness, but to a much lower extreme. This really allows the other aspects of the scent to come forward.
Oh as a side note, I love the Kenzo graphic—that eye-popping 70's poster art is near and dear to my heart
R, yes, forgot about TDC Sublime Balkys — maybe that will be a winner!
How interesting — because Narciso Rodriguez is still the only fragrance that has ever done that to me. Would love to know what the problem ingredient is. Never had a problem w/ Ormonde Jayne or Tauer though.
On the Tom Ford Extreme — no, I *think* they're just essentially moving it from LE to regular production, and in fact, my local NM got it back in stock a couple weeks ago.
I'll probably never wear Chanel no. 5 either! Just as well, I'd rather wear the lesser known Bois des Iles.
I tried the new 'peace symbol' in Duty Free last weekend and was unimpressed, if that helps ~
I guess it helps confirm that this is a dull year, eh?
R: out of that HUGE list of 2008 releases only the Nez a Nez gave me a “start”…I'll hope that has some strangeness about it. So far I have not bought any 2008-released scent!
Chanek No 5 was my scent when I was 14 or so – I can't go back there again!
So far, this year is so so. I am looking forward to sniffing Manuel Canova's frags and Parfums d Nicolai.
For me, it is possible there are more than one ingredient which do it. I notice that in most modern scents which contain synthetic “wood” (probably Iso E Super), I get a tight, sore throat. Since this ingredient is used rather extensively, there are quite a few which are potential offenders, but it also seems to depend on how much is used.
All I really know right now is that I smelled Eccentric Molecule 01 and had the reaction almost immediately. AFAIK, Iso E Super is the only ingredient in this one.
Iso E Super definitely doesn't bother me — I've sniffed the Escentric Molecule 01 w/ no problem. Weird that we're both bothered by Narciso Rodriguez though…
I haven't had that many winners this year, but I am really excited about the upcoming Tom Ford fragrance for women, as I am a huge Ford fan and love his fragrances ! Lots of them work for me like a charm ! I wonder when is it going to be out? Something like autumn or late autumn is my guess. All I know is the rumoured name is White Patchouli and the face will be Erykah Badu. If you have any more details please post
Same here! Everything old is new to me – I've been hunting down the classics which I've never tried. So long as there are oldies & goodies out there, it will be a good year for me. I feel the same about Chanel, I've tried them all and they do nothing for me.
I would love to know the answer to both our problems. Let's get the spectrometer out, lol
Scrolling through that list you so helpfully provided, R, I could find nothing which made my heart beat faster in anticipation. The last 2 times that happened was for 31 Rue Cambon and Jubilation 25 though only for the latter after reading the review here on NST. I had been eagerly anticipating Figue Iris and the Hermes Jardin thingy but melon is a no-no and I think I'm going to be disappointed by the Figgy AA. One thing which did snag my attention (apart from EL woody one) was Ellie D Nuit. Is that M Roudnitska again I wonder? And speaking of which I'd love another DelRae.
I have not liked any of the Nez a Nez scent so far — have you?
Will agree w/ “so so”. Does MC have more fragrances coming out?
I sorta forgot about that. Yes, that could be fun. And all I know about it is the same stuff you've heard, sorry!
Yes, Ellie Nuit is by Michel Roudnitska, and I know it is “finished” but don't know when it will be in stores.
And wish I knew what was up with Delrae! We really do need another.
I have to confess that after reading the list of upcoming frag releases, I went to Luckyscent and ordered samples of things I've always wanted to sniff…
Spritzed the Sycomore on Wednesday (2nd time). “nice' is a great description, though probably not what Chanel would like!
And not the description that will get me jumping through hoops to find a sample, LOL!
R: make that zero interest then…I was thinking LES NEZ, not Nez a Nez!
Personally, it's been the best year ever, because in January I discovered the wild, wonderful world of swapping and samples!!!! In these four and a half months, I've tried more new-to-me fragrances than I've tried in the last four and a half decades! Yippeeee! My only question: whatever TOOK me so long????
31 rue Cambon is rather elegant though – just had a sample from The Perfumed Court. But I passed up the chance to buy a 200ml bottle on Ebay for £110/$220 as that is an awful lot of juice, which I cannot really justify buying when I think of all the samples and minis – and full bottles – I already own!
Isn't swapping great? Time consuming, but great.
Still hoping Chanel will decide to do smaller bottles or a coffret — 200 ml is about 150 ml too many for me.
Coffret idea is ace. I spend a lot of time at airports, and whilst I am very drawn to the coffrets on offer – as they are so cute apart from anything! – it almost never happens that there is one I want to buy, because of the particular selection in there. I wonder which of the houses already do a mix and match coffret of, say, 10-15mls of whatever you like from their range – say 3-6 variants a go depending how wide the range was? A Hermes “Le Jardin” collection might be nice if that doesn't already exist. Maybe this is only common practice on exclusive/limited ranges done by the niche companies, which is why I don't anything about it? Obviously I could get larger decants instead, but a coffret would be so lovely from a presenation point of view and make a great present (says she, with a birthday looming!). I am not very familiar with the coffret idea outside of airport minis, but think it must have a lot more potential within the mainstream or even niche companies. A little coffret of Annick Goutals would be so dinky!
There is a coffret (or used to be) of AGs in a little satin drawstring bag, and Hermes does a coffret of the Hermessences, although not so far of the Le Jardin scents. Diptyque has a nice EdT collection, and L'Artisan does them from time to time. But by & large, not so many companies as ought to
Another one for Sensuous coming from EL in July. God I hope we won't be disappointed. Must smell those “molten” woods. I hope at least I can layer it.
Agree — the way things are going, it could easily be the best mainstream scent we get this year. Let's hope the “molten woods” live up to our expectations!
Might this be anything like Armani Sensi? That's another woody one beginning with “Sens”! : )