Cardinal is a recent fragrance release from the niche line Heeley, and the notes include incense, cistus, grey amber, patchouli and vetiver.
Cardinal is easily my favorite scent from Heeley so far. As you might guess from the name and the notes, it is a take on church incense, and so immediately invites comparison to what I think of as the industry standard, Comme des Garçons Avignon. Like Avignon, Cardinal starts off rather strong, but it has nothing like Avignon's uncompromisingly gloomy stance: it is brighter, smoother, and not quite so bone-dry, although I wouldn't go so far as to call it sweet. The dry down is soft and mildly earthy, and like many incense-focused fragrances, has a meditative quality.
Is church incense really church incense if it isn't brooding and dark? Well, if Avignon is your idea of perfection, you might answer no, but if Avignon was too much of a good thing for you — or if, like me, you think there just can't be too many variations on incense — Cardinal might be just what you're looking for. And for those of you in the bring-on-more-incense group, I'll also put in another plug for Encens Mystic by Crazylibellule & The Poppies (the bestest under $20 incense I know) and the Aedes de Venustas Parfum d’Ambiance by L'Artisan (a room spray, but very wearable on skin).
Cardinal is $80 for 100 ml of Eau de Parfum, and the lasting power is good although it stays rather close to the skin after it dries down. For buying information, see the listing for Heeley under Perfume Houses.
Aaauuuughh! I've been pretending these don't exist. I had myself convinced I didn't need to try this one because of the vetiver — how much are you feeling it in there? I know this is hard b/c you're much fonder of vetiver than I am — there can DEFINITELY be too much vetiver
And I've been ignoring the Aedes b/c I was cross at them, but that's just stupid and I need to move on.
— signed, Nope, never too much incense!
M, I really don't think you'll notice any of the base notes as separate entities…I don't think of vetiver or patchouli at all. Just smells like incense. Spirit of the Tiger is also very much worth a try, although I haven't decided if I actually like it.
And don't ignore the Aedes, really, it is a great scent. Wish they'd release it in a personal fragrance although it is pretty darn good as it is, and of course, cheaper than the regular L'Artisans since it is a room spray. I try hard to to stay cross with any of the niche retailers because you know, you have to get your stuff, LOL…and they've got the stuff.
The Aedes room spray really is wonderful. (I have a dab on my wrist right now–thanks so much for letting me try it.) This could overcome my irrational aversion to room sprays.
Sounds wonderful! I love Avignon, but it intimidates me. When I wear it I feel that I am in a presence of something holier than my humble self and that I am not worthy
How is Aedes room spray sillage and lasting power on skin?
It is lovely. I also love the Tilleuls au Vent room spray from L'Artisan, and if you really get over your aversion, you must try the Diptyque John Galliano — great stuff!
The Cardinal is considerably more wearable, I should think, although I do adore Avignon
Excellent on both points, in fact, I prefer it dabbed rather than sprayed — it is rather strong.
I like Avignon but I don’t’ love it. Strangely I think of it as too sweet and maybe either not dark or not complex enough. I like wearing it on a hot day when I am going to be outside in the sun, can’t really explain that. Out of the incense series, I really love Kyoto, seems much darker and mysterious to me. It is my daily staple. That’s not really why I am writing, I know you haven’t reviewed it but wondering if you have tried my current obsession Keiko Mecheri, Oliban. Really sexy and complex incense with a heady carbonated smoke opening and not particularly dark either. I am curious to hear your take on it, so if you haven’t tried it, please do.
I love Kyoto too (and agree it is more mysterious) and Ouarzazate. Avignon is probably the least “wearable” of those 3, but still, I adore it.
Oliban isn't to my taste at all — too sweet and heavy. It has lots of amber & patchouli — my least favorite notes, so I'm not saying it is a bad scent, just not me.
The amber can be really over the top at times, and I usually really don’t like anything too sweet, but in this strange case I am really into it. I can’t explain it. I don’t get that much patchouli out of it. I recently decided that I needed something with patchouli as a focal note; I have always thought of it as was something I liked. I got a bunch of samples and spent an afternoon in Barney’s Basement trying a variety of patchouli’s before finally realizing that I don’t really like patchouli either. At least not as a primary focus.
Well, I'll have to try Oliban again, perhaps it wasn't as dark and heavy as I remember it.
The only patch-focus fragrance I like is Montale's Patchouli Leaves, and I have a sneaking suspicion that it must mean it isn't a very good patchouli scent, LOL…