Idole was released last year by the newly re-established house of Lubin. Rather than reissue one of the many fragrances in their back catalog (465, according to the Lubin history website), they have created something entirely new, borrowing only the name from a Lubin fragrance from the 1960s. The inspiration for the fragrance comes from the early sea trade in precious spices, which linked the East African islands of Madagascar and Zanzibar to points farther east, including the Kingdom of Siam and the island of Java.
The notes are rum absolute, saffron, bitter orange peel, black cumin, Doum palm, smoked ebony, sugar cane, leather and red sandalwood. If that sounds like a heavy blend, think again: the perfumer was Olivia Giacobetti. Her fragrances make a virtue of simplicity and rarely raise their voice above a whisper, and Idole is no exception. It starts with peppery spices in a cloud of rum; the orange peel and saffron shine through beautifully as the alcohol burns off. The spice notes linger on into the dry down, lending an exotic touch to the smoky charred woods and leather. After an hour or so, it is rather mild and soft, just a whisper of leather and woods, no more than lightly sweet, with a subtle, close to the skin presence.
It is a lovely composition, and it is merely a matter of personal taste that I like it very much without being completely wild about it. However, if ever a bottle was designed to push me over the edge from "very nice, but wouldn't kill for it" to "must have at any cost", this is the one. Serge Mansau's gorgeous design is simply a triumph, and I will no doubt own it eventually.
Lubin Idole is an Eau de Toilette but the lasting power is quite good. All the same, I should think that an Eau de Parfum or "extreme" version would sell like hotcakes. For purchasing information, see the listing for Lubin under Perfume Houses.
Such an interesting historic info! I must have Idole at any cost too, for the scent and for the bottle. 🙂
M, I am surprised you don't have it already!!
And welcome back online 🙂
I thought Idole was so-so at first spray – very boozy, very fruity. It was about two hours later, in a supermarket, that I had one of those 'who smells so darn good?…ooh, it's ME!' moments. Now my sample is all but gone, sigh…and the bottle is SO gorgeous….it will be mine one day soon.
R, thank you. That unfortunate phone outage interfered with my online shopping plans. Divine intervention? The Universe is trying to tell me something? LOL Well, I am not listening. 🙂
I have been waiting for you to review this before I purchased a sample. It sounds very appealing and the bottle looks magnificent.
Lovely review! I admit that I am a bit surprised, because I find Idole rather diffusive and enough to last for the whole day. More than one spray is definitely too much for me.
Me too, Victoria. One spray last pretty much all day on me.
LOL — I wouldn't listen either!
It really is lovely! Just not entirely “me”, and not sure I'd end up buying it in a plainer bottle 😉
A, will be very curious to hear what you think of it! It is really lovely and everyone should try it.
V, quite agree that the lasting power is good (tried to say so above but perhaps wasn't clear?) but I did not find it very strong. Not complaining, mind you…I like many OGs precisely because they are subtle. If it were easily available, I'd probably buy L'Ether before I'd buy Idole, and you can hardly accuse L'Ether of being a heavy fragrance.
I've got connections, and she's gonna send me a taste as soon as she gets it (not naming any names!) I'm a little worried about the cumin, but if it didn't bother you it'll probably be okay for me.
That bottle — what a stunner!
Fantastic review dear R! I did try this recently. It is rather lovely but not something I am dying to buy…. yet! ;D Guess I am not yet wild about it.
Hope you are well..
PS did get your email and will write a proper one soon.
Hugs!
M, Black cumin is not the same as cumin (actually V explained this to me) and I don't smell cumin at all…more like pepper & clove.
LOL — it is always “yet”, isn't it? Hope you are well too!
Great review. Love Idole, but am wondering if I'm the only one who thinks it's somewhat similar to Santal Blanc. Left Idole out of my top 20 this year, but am now regretting having done so.
Wow, I didn't make that connection at all…will have to try them together now!
I really enjoyed that Robin. I”m not to fond of 'peppery' though so doubt I'd love it. 🙂
Thank you L! It is not overwhelmingly pepper-y at all — if you like saffron & clove, would still give it a try 😉
I'm so glad you reviewed this, R! It sounds lovely. I have a sample on the way to me as we speak and I can't wait to compare it to Padparadscha (apparently I am all about pepper and wood these days, for some reason).
Enjoyed your review. I received a sample of this scent last Friday, but was a little underwhelmed. It seems to be similar to Frapin 1270 and CdG 2man, but not as sweet, and also similar to Timbuktu, but not as dry. Since I have the three scents just mentioned, I don't think I'll add Idole to the collection. But still looking forward to what OG comes out with next…
i'm so excited for the release of this – i'm anticipating being VERY happy with a full bottle. 😉 thanks for the review!
R, On my skin Idole gets a bit too boozy, that´s why I don´t like it that much. It´s something really different that´s why I like it, though, but I think I wouldn´t wear it much.
The bottle´s really lovely like everybody already mentioned!
Dear Robin,
I have been reading your website extensively for the last few weeks, and would like to thank you for this and all your reviews.
You have opened the door to a wonderful place. I would not have discovered fragrances like these if I did not start reading here. Thanks to you (and all of you who post), I am having the great pleasure of sampling many beautiful choices.
I am such a neophyte that I cannot comment intelligently on this subject, so I will just keep reading, and sampling.
My happiest purchases so far have been a 10 ml decant of FM Carnal Flower, the sample package of Ormonde Jayne (a bottle or two will come of this), and a bottle of Fracas. I have miles (mls?) to go before I choose more, and should stop ordering samples until I do. Meanwhile, a second order of seven samples is on it's way from Aedes.
What fun you have brought me.
Badger, have only tried the Padparadscha very briefly, but they are not as similar as they sound — the Padparascha being more of a creamy sandalwood, and maybe more of a comfort scent. Need to give it a few more tries but hope to review it soon.
Interesting comparisons…have not tried the CdG, but you are quite right that Frapin is far sweeter. Didn't pick up any similarity to Timbuktu & will have to try them together.
I'd be happy with that bottle almost regardless of what they put in it, LOL — but the scent is great & looking forward to whatever Lubin does next!
S, my tolerance for booziness must be greater than yours, LOL — didn't find that part overdone at all.
Welcome Spinner! I am really hardly more than a neophyte myself, so never feel shy about commenting. Sounds like you've picked up some great perfumes already. What were your favorites from Ormonde Jayne?
R, you must have read my mind.
At first spritz, Idole is way too boozy, with the alcohol rising to the top. I was so disappointed.
But, then an amazing thing happened: the vapors cleared and a wonderful spicy-orange-woody-rummy smell emerged. How unique! Idole has been compared to Chergui, but they are not in any way similar.
I love the bottle. It's almost like a collector's piece. And, I agree with you that an EdP would really bring out Idole's richness.
If Carnal Flower lived up to the pre-release hype with a home run, bases loaded, I would say that Idole definitely hit a triple. :):)
Hugs!
R, hey, someone has a new bottle! Congrats. I'll be joining you soon enough 😉
Thank you for your response. I am in the middle of trying the OJ. I started with one of your favorites, Frangipani. This will be a bottle purchase.
I've also tried Ormonde Woman, Osmanthus, and today I'm wearing Champaca. While they are, as you say, all beautiful I will have to limit myself to one or two (I have a lot of fragrance to sample, and many yet to buy). At this point Champaca is the second bottle. I'll know for sure when I finish them all.
I have many other decants and samples on their way to me (including 5ml of Tubereuse Criminelle which has been the most fun to read about. If I love it I'll be stuck. I doubt I'll get to France before my kids move out!).
It's great to be here. BTW, if you are a novice, then I am still floating in the primal sea 🙂
Ah, you won't be stuck if you love TC…there is always ebay. And if you plan on developing a real addiction (and you sound like you are headed that way), eventually you will find that decants are better than whole bottles anyway, especially while you explore and find out what you really love. Otherwise, you end up with 100 bottles before you realize that you will never, never use it all up during this life time.
I will probably always be a novice. I am not very interested in the technical aspects of perfumery, and don't have any natural talents in terms of identifying notes, etc. I am just a very determined fan. You'll catch up to me in no time!
I'm in the process of trying this one. Although I was enormously disappointed smelling it out of the bottle, I got up my courage and tried it on skin….oh my. I am entranced. I would have never tried this otherwise, but I got it in a sample pack and I adore it now. I'm not very good at picking out notes, but it almost seems like pine to me right now, but I just put it on. Divine though. I wouldn't mind smelling it on a man, either.
I avoid smelling anything in the bottle — it doesn't usually give a good impression of what something will smell like on skin. Glad you gave this one a chance, it is lovely!
Purchased at FT Jackson SC Army base for $32.00. Regular price $128.00 going to give a bottle to each of my sons.