Today I am comparing the new La Chasse aux Papillons Extrême perfume, released by L'Artisan Parfumeur this year, with the original version, now referred to fondly on the fragrance boards as diet La Chasse.
La Chasse aux Papillons was originally released by L’Artisan in 1999. The fragrance was created by nose Anne Flipo, and has notes of citrus, orange blossom, linden, tuberose, and jasmine. La Chasse is one of many fragrances that I dismissed on the first try, only to later become hopelessly smitten. It is the classic, ethereal spring-time white floral, very fresh and girly — a white floral even a white floral hater could love. It starts with light citrus notes and a lovely burst of linden. The orange blossom also adds a nice, dry zing, and helps to balance out the sweetness of the tuberose and jasmine. I wouldn’t exactly call it green, but there are grassy notes as well. It is not an overly complex perfume, but for what it is, it is perfect. Like most of the L’Artisan Eau de Toilettes, it is short lived; it lasts for about 3 to 4 hours on me.
The notes for La Chasse aux Papillons Extrême are similar, with the additions of pink pepper, saffron, ylang ylang and honey. Given how rarely perfume houses list notes in any detail, these may all be in the regular version for all I know. The top notes are heavier on the citrus, and very peppery. The saffron adds just a hint of creaminess (and I would love to try layering this with Safran Troublant). The linden and orange blossom are comparatively restrained; the tuberose and the jasmine are very much in the forefront. I am not catching the grassy notes of the regular version, and it stays lightly spicy through the dry down. It is sweeter, smoother, and less summery, although it is still not what I think of as heady. It certainly isn't something that you couldn't wear to the office.
As with the other Extrêmes from L'Artisan, they have tweaked the notes considerably, so this is not just a deeper, longer lasting rendition. In other words, I would not buy the Extrême unsniffed just because you enjoy the regular version, and for that matter, you might want to give it a try even if you don't like diet La Chasse. I like both versions, but I am guessing that I will reach for the original La Chasse more often.
L'Artisan La Chasse aux Papillons is available in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette. La Chasse aux Papillons Extrême is available in 50 ml Eau de Parfum. For buying information, see the listing for L'Artisan under Perfume Houses.
Hi R!! I agree that the diet is different – I find the extreme much heavier on tuberose on my skin. It is pretty – but I have my diet version which I apply liberally. The extreme does not have a great lasting power on me.
Have a super day!!
Hmmm…interesting, very interesting. LOL! I can't wear the diet version; the linden note always disagrees with me, and I end up smelling like dirty laundry. Phew! But since this has less linden in it, I may give it a whirl the next time I visit my local Saks. Thanks for helping me keep an open mind, R!
I adore my diet La Chasse. I cannot imagine how any tweaking of the notes can be an improvement. But I will give Extreme a sniff the next time I'm at the stores.
N, I also think you are right that the Extreme has sandalwood in the base. Maybe the diet does too?
Hope you are well and not TOO busy!
Really, R? I would have thought you were a linden fan just because of the Delrae Debut. And since I am a linden fan, I think it smells like CLEAN laundry 🙂
It is not necessarily an improvement, more like another, similar fragrance, in the same way that Premier Figuier and PF Extreme are different enough to justify having both, assuming you love them. I think they try to make that clear in their ad copy, but people can't help but expect more of the same. With the PF, I tried the Extreme version first, and was thus confused by the regular, as they smell nothing alike.
Thank you R – for making me feel sane! I find a bit of sandalwood too though the SA at the main boutique vehemently denies any existence of sandalwood in it – well there are 100s of different things and surely they cannot list everything and the SAs cannot know them all by heart!
Hugs
N
I know! When I first tested Debut, I was afraid that it would not smell good on me because of that note. Fortunately, that BO note did not rear its ugly face, but with diet La Chasse it most certainly does!
Well, the list of notes on Osmoz has almost no real “base” notes, only ylang ylang. There has to be something else in there holding it all together. It is light, whatever it is, and creamy, and I would say sandalwood — and there is nobody to contradict us!
BO, ouch!! Funny though, I didn't like La Chasse until I fell in love with D'Orsay Tilleul…please, don't diss my poor D'Orsay Tilleul, even if you hate it 🙂
My lips are sealed! LOL!
Weird, but I fell in love with D'Orsay's Tilleul and never warmed to La Chase (diet). I've tried it numerous times, and it comes across as very insipid on me, w/ no lasting power. 🙁 I'm hoping that the extreme will turn my head.
It is very “girly”, so I know what you mean by insipid. It just grew on me…I have no explanation at all. I tried it at least 3 times over a 1 year period with no interest at all, then one day, boom, I had to have it.
thank you for this wonderfull review. luckily it lasts on me really long, even after hair-washing. it reminds me a lot of beeing a child, of gardens and spring. it is great.
i thought about buying the extreme unsniffed but i better not then, if they are so different.
If the regular lasts well on you, I'd think you'd be happiest with it, although the Extreme is certainly worth a try!
hey robin, it took me bleedings feet running into the stores to finde CAP extreme! i got so curious. it is nice, though i think it is a winter version of it, it is smoother and calmer, but it is too nice. it is just perfume and not a story like the original CAP. i stay a sucker for CAP and i hope that someone will think of me at my 30th birthday and give me the whole range 😉 i completely agree with you that you HAVE to sniff both, but stick to the original.
I wore it again just a few weeks ago after a long absence…almost feel like it should have an entirely different name! It is nice, but not La Chasse-ish enough.
i tried Extreme just now after a couple years. i LOVE it. i get all tuberose and pepper on my skin. i've never been interested in anything peppery until just now. i'm obsessed with this!
Glad you found a new favorite 🙂
I’ve just tried this scent out of my batch of samples, and… it’s not me. Actually, I’m thankful because I thought I was going covet everything L’Artisan has to offer and that would be a problem. haha Anyway, I believe it’s the linden that’s rubbing me the wrong way – it just smells odd on me [and not odd in a good way, like Dzing!].
I love linden, but hey, exactly: it would be a problem if you loved the whole darned line!
I adore l’artisan perfumes, almost all of them, and I’d like to add to my collection… Here’s a question : In your opinion, which L’artisan lasts the longest? I know everyone is different, but I’d love your opinions, especially within the springy/summery florals.
I’m sorry but I honestly don’t know…I’m not sure any of the springy/summery florals are really long lasting. Might be a good question next time we do an open thread — maybe somebody else knows.
revisiting la chasse extreme tonight. sadly, i think the bottle i bought about 4 or 5 years ago has gone off. it doesn’t smell bad, but it’s all fuzzy and soft smelling, not sharp. sad!
this begs the question: robin, do you store your frags in a fridge of some type? i’m thinking now i better look into this… scared my lifetime supply of l’artisan tubereuse will go bad!
No, I don’t, and mine has definitely changed too. It’s not ruined yet, but assume it will be soon. Hard to say if the top notes would have lasted longer in a fridge or not. Also true that it may have had particularly volatile top notes, and so you can’t assume the Tubereuse will go the same way…but yes, if you have a lifetime supply you need to think about best storage.