I had planned to continue with the orange blossom theme today, but last night my sample of Barbara Bui Le Parfum was calling to me, so orange blossom will have to wait until tomorrow.
Barbara Bui, the Franco-Vietnamese fashion designer based in Paris, introduced Le Parfum last fall. According to Osmoz, Bui "wanted a perfume for a committed woman. A perfume with character, not a heavy trail…" Women's Wear Daily reports that the notes for Le Parfum are spices, incense, jasmine, white musk, sandalwood, heliotrope, cedar and amber, and that the scent...
...is meant to be part of a wider global approach to beauty. Its ancillary products, which will be available starting in April, are also supposed to play a role in a woman's daily beauty regimen. The items will be multisensorial and results-oriented, not simply scented toiletries.
Le Parfum starts very sweet, but after about 10 minutes it is just perfect: a resinous mix of incense, very light jasmine, spices, and a touch of vanilla. It continues to a slightly powdery dry down with lots of creamy sandalwood and a subdued musky amber base. This is a skin scent, unobtrusive enough that you could wear it anywhere, and it has a soft, comforting quality.
This is a very appealing scent, and worth trying. I have to admit I love it best in the early stages, before the incense starts to fade, and again after several hours have passed, when the amber is just a whisper. I have tried this perfume 3 times now, and each time I have been struck by an obvious similarity to some other perfume that I just can't place. The remnants on yesterday's sweater are calling to mind L'Artisan Safran Troublant, but I am fresh out of that scent so can't compare the two. If you have tried both, please let me know if I'm crazy.
The nose behind Le Parfum was Anne Flipo of International Flavors & Fragrances.
As far as I know, this is only available directly from the Barbara Bui shop on Wooster Street in NYC (212-625-1938).
Update, 3/07: Barbara Bui Le Parfum has been discontinued.
You described Barbara Bui perfectly. I just love how the fragrance makes me feel. It is so calming and relaxing. POTL is similiar in that respect. I just feel good when I wear both.
Annie, am I crazy about the Safran Troublant? Not in the top notes, but after a few hours.
I have got to try BB! Despite the fact that it's patchouli-free. I have a sample of Safran Troublant, and I'll probably wear that today.
Oh K, does a fragrance have to have patchouli to attract you? We are exact opposites then
I have yet to try BB. From what I've heard I'd probably love it! I tend to flock toward fragrances with a lot of spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, etc..).
You are right, R, it does smell like something else, but I can't quite put my finger on it. Maybe it's reminiscent of some of the fragrances from the 70's and early 80's?
I love Barbara Bui, although it does not remind me of a “skin” fragrance, like say Carriere or Kiehls Musk Oil.
I did a test last night and layered the BB with Passage d'Enfer. The BB softened the Passage, and Passage brought out the incense in the BB. I think it may be a good combo.
It sounds like it might be perfect for you then! Let me know what you think when you try it
R, that layering combo sounds perfect! I am going to give it a try & will report back.
You have piqued my interest! As long as the jasmine is soft and not too strong. I love amber and sandalwood together.
R, Karen and I are both Patch Hags. But I still have a deep and abiding respect for you!
:~D
The jasmine is very, very light, I hardly even notice it.
At this point, I consider it a personal failure that I have not yet grown to love patchouli or amber. But, keep in mind that 2 years ago, all I wore was light citrus. I have come a long way
Hey Mahgs! Thanks for jumping in there and explaining my “patchamania”. I think I like the patchouli blends so much because, spending my teen years in the late '60's/early '70's, I never wore patchouli at all! I'd just smell it wafting in the air at concerts, on “hippies”, etc. Now when I smell it, it transports me back to those carefree teen years (minus all the angst.) I seem, unintentionally, to gravitate to the patchouli-blends. I just feel that patch adds a lot of depth and warmth to a fragrance. BTW, wore the Safran today and loved it!
Oh this sounds so beautiful! I will have to try it some day soon! And the idea of using it with Passage d'Enfer really has tickled my fancy! =)
Hi R, I love your blog. I really like BB too. I haven't tried Safran Troublant but I think that Barbara Bui smells quite a bit like Caron Parfum Sacre.
M
M, thank you so much!
I have a vial of Parfum Sacre somewhere and will have to compare the two. I have also seen it compared to Luctor et Emergo, but I didn't think they were much alike.
I finally got to try this one. I find it very similar to POTL. It's probably the powdery heliotrope. Maybe even Etro Heliotrope which to me is like POTL too.
I find this too soft, barely there and may be good for a delicate person who sometimes thinks fragrances are too strong. For me there is not enough oomph!
I put on almost a whole medium size vial this morning and I can barely smell it with my nose to my wrist.
Wow, a whole vial!! That is a lot of fragrance. Do you find POTL light too?
Agree that it could use more oomph & I think that is why I liked the top notes best, when there was still more incense.
I just wore this as my scent of the day. Does it remind you of a less powdery Kenzo flower? I like the Vanilla and pepper/resin combination a lot. Too bad it's discontinued.
Interesting — wouldn't have thought of Flower, but will have to try them together.
It is *very* too bad that it's discontinued. I think it could have sold really well under a more well-known name.
Hey Robin I have read it is similar to Sonya Rykiel For women, not for man! Can u affirm?
Sorry, don’t think I’ve ever smelled the Sonia Rykiel.