I am late, again, but hopefully not too late to help Anna. She wants to find a daytime fragrance, something light and suited to warm weather, but with good lasting power, to replace her discontinued favorite, Montblanc Starwalker. At the moment, her substitute is Diptyque Eau Duelle, and she does like it but she finds that it starts out strong, and then wears off too quickly.
She'd love to keep the price below $150, but she might be willing to go higher for true love. Here is what we know about Anna and her fragrance preferences:
She's in her mid 30s, and her style tends to be classic (bordering on androgynous, according to some people).
She wears a lot of blazers, sheath dresses, tweed, oxfords.
Anna dislikes floral scents, fruity scents, and “beachy”/oceany scents.
Anna usually prefers unisex fragrances — woody, spicy or even relatively clean. She also likes peppery scents.
And here are some of her specific likes and dislikes:
Mugler Angel and Alien: she does like them, but on other people — they don’t seem to work on her skin.
Diptyque Tam Dao and Volutes: she loves them both.
Tom Ford Oud Wood: she likes it but it can be a bit strong, and so she uses it sparingly.
Le Labo Lys 41: she wears it sometimes, but it’s a bit too floral and she doesn't love it.
Le Labo Oud: she usually likes oud, but this one is too strong and woody.
Le Labo Ylang 49: she doesn't mind it as much as other ylang based fragrances, possibly because of the patchouli?
Chanel No. 5: slightly powdery, but not terrible. She doesn't love it on herself; it reminds her a bit of her grandmother.
Burberry Brit Rhythm: it's spicy and a little mossy, and she likes it but it doesn't last on her.
Dunhill 51.3N: she likes it, but it’s a bit too strong and masculine for her so she bought it for her husband. If it was a bit lighter, she'd wear it.
What say you?
Note: top image is Bologna - no bill posting [cropped] by on1stsite. at flickr; some rights reserved.
Anna can find her favorite, Montblanc Starwalker, online. Here’s an example:
https://www.fragrancenet.com/cologne/mont-blanc/mont-blanc-starwalker/edt#141223
A little digging via Google would probably offer up even more bargains. Just saying…
Actually they stopped making it over 5 years ago. According to Mont blanc, any starwalker currently being sold is fake. I did try one from an internet seller on Amazon and it was clearly not genuine
FragranceNet will often have old stock but I’ve never gotten a bottle of fake perfume from them.
Totally agree with this. I think you’re safe to buy your Starwalker there. That doesn’t mean that it hasn’t been reformulated… but it’ll be legit!
Agree with bastet & gvillecreative. Brands always say discounters have fake stock because they want to discourage you from buying from the grey market, for obvious reasons.
That said, I do believe Montblanc if they say they have not made it in 5 years, and so whatever you buy is already significantly aged. Starwalker’s shelf life is an open question. I have perfumes that are much older than that and are perfectly fine, but I have others that didn’t make it that long before spoiling.
I’ve had good luck with Fragrancenet and have frequently shopped there with good results.
I agree with what Robin mentioned, many brands try to discourage shopping in the grey market..
Few ideas that pop to my mind include Prada Infusion de Vetiver, Berdoues Arz El-Rab, Atelier Cologne Cedre Atlas, Hiram Green Arbole Arbole.
For musky/peppery/balsamic notes, I adore Hermes Eau de gentiane blanche, also love Terre d’ Hermes and Eau des Merveilles, both lean quite unisex.
For straight up balsamic & resins, I adore L’Eau Trois by Diptyque. It is lovely, woods, incense and resins but is quiet, wearing close to the skin, a def. unisex vibe to this one.
For a more woods-forward perfume, I love Serge Luten’s Feminite du Bois (I’d suggest the original by Shiseido but it’s like the proverbial Unicorn – good luck finding it without having to see off a body part).
I also love Bvlgari’s Au the Blanc full of spice and woods (notes are pepper, cardamom and coriander, amber, musk and woodys).
I was thinking Terre d’Hermes too. If the Eau de Toilette is too light, Anna could try the Parfum. There is also the Eau Tres Fraiche, but it might be too short lived.
There’s also the (related) Voyage d’Hermès, but it might not have enough lasting power.
That reminds me I need to try that! VdH sounds right up my alley!
I personally think Terre is the better scent, but Voyage is enjoyable and worth a shot!
Thanks so much for all the suggestions!
I found 2 I love: Bois d’Iris and Lalique Encre Noir.
I also liked Terre D’hermes though less so on my skin- I liked it on my husband though, so got him a bottle.
I have not been able to find Chanel 31 Rue Cambon, L’eau Trois and Le Labo Vanille. I ordered a sample of Chanel 31 RC on ebay, but it came in a strange looking roll on bottle that didnt smell anything like the description, so I’m going to assume that wasn’t authentic.
I like some of the other unisex Diptique and Le Labo scents, so definitely want to try those.
Bulgari Au The Blanc was my first thought, too. And Lalique Encre Noire.
Oh, Lalique Encre Noire is another wonderful recommendation!
I don’t know if Anna tried the EDT or EDP of Eau Duelle, but if she tried the EDT, she might want to try EDP. It lasts a long time on me. Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensee is pretty similar, too.
Seconding Vanille Insensee, and possibly some others from Atelier Cologne, like Oolang Infini or Bois Blonds.
For peppery/ woody, how about Ormonde Jayne Isfarkand or Hermès Poivre Samarcande? She might also try Ormonde Man and Ormonde Woman. Or Chanel Egoiste is a beautiful warm spiced sandalwood, which I prefer to Bois des Iles.
You might try Comme des Garcons Man 2, Andy Tauer Incense Pure and Incense Flash, SSS Forest Walk, and TDC Le 15 all come to mind as genderless woody incenses worth trying.
And Fiele Juniperus.
Someone else mentioned Vanilla Insensee, which would be a good choice if you want something similar to Eau Duelle. Amouage Epic Woman is spicy and unisex but it might be a bit heavy (and pricey). I also think Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan is worth a sniff – amber scents are not specifically mentioned here but this one might work well!
Perhaps Anna might be interested in trying L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Timbuktu, Fou d’Absinthe, or Mechant Loup.
Other possibilities might include Caron’s Yatagan, Eau d’Italie’s Bois d’Ombrie or Paestum Rose, de Nicolai’s New York, Lancome’s Magie Noire, or Aedes de Venustas’ Oeillet Bengale (the last is way above $150, but I suspect she might really like it).
What about a woody incense? I’d suggest Falling Trees by Régime des Fleurs as a very nice one.
My wife also associates the powder of Chanel No. 5 with older relations ( I recall her dread at being gifted a bottle by misguided me — I like powder for just about anyone — many years ago).. She is in her forties but quite youthful and a touch androgynous too, in a sophisticated wood-nymph kind of way. Anyway, she wears Balenciaga B. (the original, not either of the flankers), which, with its ‘green pea’ accord (billed as edamame, but to me closer to tomato leaves) is about as far from a heavy floral as you can get. Peppery, musky-woody, and just a little ozonic, it has low sillage but decent longevity (a rollerball can be had for refreshment.) Anyway, this might be a contender? She sprays it on clothes (minimalist knit wool jacket/cardigan things), and I can readily imagine it working with tweed… There are similarities to Burberry Britt Rhythm, but I think that this smells more expensive. At a slightly higher price point, another close contender is Atelier’s Camelia Intrepide (inspired by that youthful androgyne Amelia Earhart), which is almost the same fragrance, but with better performance, and just a bit more plush with a soft leather note in the heart. Good luck!
Hi John – loved this post. Especially the lovely description of your wife who is youthful,and a touch androgynous in a sophisticated wood-nymph kind of way. I’m not sure if I knowexactly what a sophisticated wood nymph would be like, but I’d love to be described that way. And I liked your suggestions!
So many great recs already mentioned. I’ll add to the chorus on Atelier Vanilla Incessee (though it’s fairly fleeting compared to Eau Duelle). I like a LOT of the Cologne Ateliers, but I have a feeling that you will find them too fleeting. That said, definitely check out their soaps– particularly the Grand Neroli, which is fantastic. Trust me, you will love it.
2nd’ing the recs for Encre Noir and Terre d’Hermes. Great choices.
Other good ones to try:
* Van Cleef and Arpels – either Orchidee Vanille (which is in the similar ballpark as Eau Duelle, but more high fashion imho). But I don’t find it seriously unisex. For the unisex VCA, I’d rec Bois d’Iris. It’s slightly peppery, has great projection, and would go great with your style. Check out the sample sets on ebay for relatively cheap.
* Prada L’eau Ambree – agreat unisex that’s marketed to women. Great lasting power, though you are likely to be anosmic after a bit of time (someone elsewhere commented that one of the molecules is one that exhausts the nose) but others will likely smell it on you for 8+ hours. Might still be avail for sampling at Sephora?
* Check out some other Chanels, Anna. Chanel No 19 edp (a lot of vetiver in the current iteration but it’s tempered with rose) or Chanel No 5 L’eau. Get a sample of L’eau and wear it for a few days. I’m willing to bet that you won’t jump for it when you first test it, but it will grow on you, especially in warm weather. It’s similar to No 5 but different in the best of ways. It’s also quite sparkly and happy and a proper frag. You can easily get a sample of L’eau at Sephora.
* Hermes Jardin sur le Nil – sparkly, a bit fruity, but totally unisex with . I’m not sure if you will find it’s projection big enough over a full day, but it’s great in the heat. Hermes Eau Claire de Merveilles is also great, but with better lasting power and a balance of milky parts cut with citrus. Bonus points: you can get a sample at Sephora of both of these.
* The ultimate rec? Chanel 31 Rue Cambon. It’s unisex, it lasts all day, it’s gloriously beautiful, it has amazing sillage, and it does well in both heat and winter. But it’s $$$ and harder to find, depending on where you are.
If I was you, I’d go for a decant of 31 RC, but there are lots and lots of great choices for you. Report back and let us know what you do!
Thanks so much for all the suggestions!
I found 2 I love: Bois d’Iris and Lalique Encre Noir.
I have not been able to find Chanel 31 Rue Cambon, L’eau Trois and Le Labo Vanille. I ordered a sample of Chanel 31 RC on ebay, but it came in a strange looking roll on bottle that didnt smell anything like the description, so I’m going to assume that wasn’t authentic.
Atelier des Ors Lune Feline reminds me of a richer Eau Duelle and it lasts all day on me. I’ve never smelled the Montblanc fragrance so I don’t know how close I am with that rec. And unfortunately, Lune Feline is not inexpensive.
I am thinking about spicy not to heavy things I like: Carner Barcelona Cuirs is more spice than leather to me, lasts, and isn’t too too pricey. Naomi Goodsir Cuirs Velours is a little sweeter and more expensive. Dryer and sometimes a love for me is Nanban. It might be too heavy though. Hmmm. These are my sleeping weather perfumes.
Such great suggestions, I want to try many of them.
Eau des Merveilles and Eau Claire des Merveilles are wonderful ideas.
I will add a big yes to the Atelier Cologne scents already listed. I love Grand Neroli and Bois Blonds very much. Trefle Pur as another possibility.
Banana Republic 78 Vintage Green is worth a try. It is rather fleeting but a half ounce at a Banana Republic outlet shop is just $12.50 US, the 2.5 ounce bottle goes for $25.
Le Labo Vanille 44 – Incensy, woody, non-gourmand vanilla. Yes, it is a little pricey if bought in the in U. S. when the City Exclusives appear (usually in September). Monica over at Basenotes splits Le Labos at a good price with a 50 mL commitment.
If you are in the U.S., I would be happy to send you a sample because I put my money where my mouth is. Please be prepared for a wait until end of year / beginning of next year because busy.
Thank you. Could you send me the link to Monica at Basenotes. I see a number of sellers there but I’m not sure who you are referring to.
I do live in the USA. I would love to get a sample of Le Labo Vanille 44 if you would be so kind as to send it to me. Thanks!
Also wanted to suggest the Atelier Cologne post card discovery set!
Papillon’s Dryad? Daniel Josier’s Kaleidoscope? Some of the Carner Barcelona scents might appeal: I really like Palo Santo.
Sideris by Maria Candida Gentile. Somewhat similar to Vanille 44, but has more incense. It is sold in 15 ml bottles, or larger, for around $45. I would recommend sampling. It has good projection and decent longevity.
For a straight up sheer, dry, woody vanilla, I suggest Black Flower Mexican Vanilla by Dame Perfumery. Another nice scent by Dame is Dark Horse. If you check out Dame’s website, you can send a postcard and he will send you a free sample of your choice.
Also Indochine or Coze by Perfumerie Generale. Both are unisex. The first is benzion, resin, Laotian honey, cardamom and lightly spiced. The later is an incensed green (hemp) number. I prefer Coze during summer when the heat makes the incense bloom.
Definitely give Andy Warhol by Bond No 9 a try. Oud heaven with a hint of vanilla. Dark, spicy, and warm.
It seems to me that Anna likes sandalwood, so I second Petunia’s suggestion – Perfumerie Generale Indochine. Sweet and spicy sandalwood.
She might like one of Serge Lutens sandalwood perfumes, Santal Majuscule or Santal Blanc.
Fresh and spicy woody fragrances:
Comptoir Sud Pacifique L’Eau du Gouverneur, Penhaligon’s Opus 1870.
And then, who knows, maybe even Lush Smuggler’s Soul (a weird one).
Ditto Penhaligon’s Opus 1870.
I will suggest: L’artisan Passage d’Enfer and Lutens Chene. Good luck Anna!
I recommend Le Labo Poivre 23 since she likes peppery notes. It’s expensive, but see Hajusuuri’s post above giving a lead to finding splits from someone at Basenotes. It might be worth at least trying a sample from a decanter place.
I recommend Le Labo Poivre 23 since she likes peppery notes. It’s expensive, but see Hajusuuri’s post above giving a lead to finding splits from someone at Basenotes. It might be worth at least trying a sample from a decanter place.
Hi,
Starwalker appears to be available on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/MONTBLANC-Star-Walker-Eau-Toilette/dp/B000RPPK76/ref=lp_12630919011_1_11_s_it?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1513193611&sr=1-11&th=1
Might be worth it to check there.
Still Life or Autoportrait by Olfactive Studio.
Thanks so much for all the suggestions!
I found 2 I love: Bois d’Iris and Lalique Encre Noir.
I also liked Terre D’hermes though less so on my skin- I liked it on my husband though, so got him a bottle.
I have not been able to find Chanel 31 Rue Cambon and Le Labo Vanille. I ordered a sample of Chanel 31 RC on ebay, but it came in a strange looking roll on bottle that didnt smell anything like the description, so I’m going to assume that wasn’t authentic.
I like some of the other Le Labo scents, so definitely want to try that too.