Today we're helping Helen, who wears perfume every day and prefers to have a signature scent. Her problem: her current signature is Calvin Klein Truth, and it's been discontinued. She wants our help to find a replacement. She'd love to find another fragrance that isn't worn by everyone, and that will work for day or evening. Here is what we know about Helen:
She's in her early 40s and lives on the East Kent coast in the UK.
She's a graphic designer, and loves all things style, from food to interiors and everything in between — but she's not a super stylish, scarily cool, judgmental creative type, in fact she prefers to be low key. She's more of a grey marl cashmere crew neck kind of girl than a latest designer t-shirt type...
She's a brunette, and feels that impacts her perfume choice — she likes darker scents, nothing too light and shiny.
Some of Helen's pre-Truth perfume choices have included Lancome Poeme, Jean Paul Gaultier Classique, Stella McCartney Stella and Rochas Byzance (interestingly, many of these perfumes are by perfumer Jacques Cavallier). Helen likes a perfume to dry down to a sexy, musky scent, and she doesn't mind a perfume that packs a bit of a punch so long as it isn't cloying. She recently bought Yves Saint Laurent Cinema, but finds it better for evening than day wear. Helen also recently tried Narciso Rodriguez for Her, and while she liked it, it didn't strike her as a replacement for Truth — there was something too enigmatic about it.
Helen doesn't like perfumes that are too sweet, too flowery or too powdery.
What say you?
Note: top image is Number 24 [cropped] by thristian at flickr; some rights reserved.
Cuir de Nacre by Ann Gérard
Hm, I don’t know how much help I’ll be as I haven’t smelled Truth but if the NR you tried was somewhat appealing, it could be worth trying the many other variants in the line, since they are so similar. Also, SJP Lovely for a floral musk, and Musc Ravageur for a more vanillic, highly cashmere-sweater-compatible musk (to my nose, mileage seems to vary a good deal on this.)
If you’re looking for something green and fresh like Truth, maybe Pure White Linen or Philosykos. They’re more daytime fragrances though. Maybe Sensuous?
Ormonde Jayne, Champaca? Very unusual, not too sweet, and a typical OJ musky dry-down.
Or Frederic Malle, L’Eau d’Hiver or Dans Tes Bras.
Organza is in the same style, also Coco Noir (probably a little sweet) Euphoria and Ysatis, dry and floral with woods. Alien might be too flowery but its complex as Poeme, try the Alien sunessence instead.. Dior Addict its on the sour side, very Cinema and Champs Elysees it’s floral, fruity with that creamy feeling you get from the amber and musk mix in Truth.
I bet for the Organza and the Champs Élysées.
I definitely second the Champaca from OJ. You should try their Ormonde Woman too, it’s a green, woody dark fragrance with the above-mentioned musky dry-down. It has a hint of something spicy – maybe cardamom or coriander, I can’t remember! Anyway, gorgeous.
You may also like to try Promesse a L’Aube from Parfums MDCI. It reminded a little of Alexander McQueen’s original and discontinued Kingdom. It may bear a resemblance to Truth. (Which, incidentally, I absolutely loved too.)
Perhaps Chanel Bois de Iles?
I’m just shooting in the dark here, but I’m going to say Guerlain Chamade and/or Mitsouko, Chanel Cuir de Russie, Solange Cosmic and last but not least – since you’re in the U.K. and can get it – Roja Dove’s Unspoken, one of my favorites.
I tried Tom Ford Violet Blonde on Schiphol airport last week and found it surprisingly likeable with wood notes and light floral accents wafting in and out of the scent.
A few other suggestions:
– Ineke: Balmy Days and Sundays
– Maison Maritn Margiela: Untitled (the original)
– L’Artisan Parfumeur: Passage d’Enfer
You might want to try Bvlgari Eau Parfumee au The Rouge. With its pink pepper, red tea, and fig, it’s sensual and warm. Les Exclusifs de Chanel, Coromandel is a warm, spicy patchouli. Le Baiser du Dragon by Cartier seems made for a brunette, with warm woody notes accented by a light touch of incense. Others to possibly try would be Hermes, Eau de Merveilles, and Marni by Marni. Good luck and let us know how it goes!
YSL Nu might be one to try… I will also second Chamade.
Amouage Dia would be perfect with gray marle cashmere.
I second OJ Woman and Champaca. And SJP’s Lovely, which is past its initial popularity and not widely worn now. I prefer Narciso Rodriguez Musc For Her Intense – it has a floral heart and a soft musky drydown I love.
The first thing that came to mind is Donna Karan Black Cashmere. The second one that came to mind is Versace Crystal Noir. I also think for a niche tinge perhaps Dyptique Volutes or Tam Dao by the same maker.
Truth was my signature scent for years as well – what a shame it didn’t stick around! LT and TS in Perfumes: The Guide say that OJ Champaca is very similar but with better quality materials (unfortunately I haven’t had a chance to try it yet but it sounds like others on the board have). L’Artisan Dzongkha might be another good one to try.
For a sexy, musky dry down I like SJP Lovely and SSS Rose Musk. They are very different, but both lovely!
Hmm…maybe Dark Amber and Ginger Lily by Jo Malone, which has a cashmere cosiness…