Today we're helping Karen. She is looking for a feminine perfume as she pulls herself together after a breakup and gets ready to start dating again. Her ideal perfume will be soft and unobtrusive but still there — a sexy skin scent, perhaps, not too sweet, and if it's something not widely known or used, all the better. It might be a creamy white floral with wood notes, but she is open to suggestions, and she can spend up to $160. Here is what we know about Karen:
She's in her mid 30s and lives in Germany, where she works as a real estate consultant and as a pilates teacher.
She enjoys outdoor activities of all kinds (running/trail running, mountain biking, hiking, rock climbing), does yoga and pilates, and Argentine tango.
She is also an avid reader, and a movie and film freak — especially Westerns.
She is tall and has an athletic build; her dress style is mostly casual and practical, classical and sportsy (black or blue suit trousers or jeans or chinos and a shirt; dresses or skirts only for tango dancing).
Karen likes white flowers, especially magnolia, freesia and lily (although that smells like her soap and isn't really what she's aiming for in her perfume), soft and not too sweet coconut, soft and not sweet vanilla, woodsy notes; she also loves the smell of the beach and freshly ground coffee (but not really on her person). Right now she wears Calvin Klein Beauty for winter and nights, and she likes it but it has no lasting power and is really not very interesting — it's more of a casual business scent. She recently discovered Jour d'Hermès and likes that as a mood lifter, but it's not really the sort of perfume she is looking for right now.
Karen doesn't like sweet or cloying perfumes, and they tend to give her a headache. She also doesn't like powdery scents, iris, chocolate, too much green, too much citrus.
Here are some of the fragrances Karen has tried recently:
Serge Lutens Bois Vanille: too much vanilla and makes her sneeze.
Robert Piguet Fracas: too much and triggers a massive headache.
Annick Goutal Vanille Exquise: too much vanilla.
Aqua di Parma Magnolia Nobile: she likes this one a lot but it's not sexy.
Narciso Rodriguez for Her (black bottle): some days she likes it, other days it seems way too strong.
Bottega Veneta: too masculine.
Memo Lalibela: she does own this one and likes it, it is soft and gentle once it dries down, but it has something in it that she doesn't like.
Juliet has a Gun Not a Perfume: smells like a cleaning product and she couldn't wait to wash it off.
Nasomatto Narcotic Venus: too much of everything, even one tiny spritz; too flowery, too sweet and a weird plastic glue note.
Ormonde Jayne line: she is working her way through a sample set, but so far did not like any.
Chanel Chance, Allure, Coco Mademoiselle: too sweet, and more headaches.
Love, Chloé: too powdery and too womanly.
Chloé Eau de Parfum: too much, and too much sillage.
Marni: probably too green, and reminds her of the Chloé.
What say you?
Note: top image is Number 24 [cropped] by thristian at flickr; some rights reserved.
I think Karen might like:
Chanel Beige,
Jo Malone English Pear & Freesia,
Acqua di Parma Magnolia Nobile,
Van Cleef & Arpels Lys Carmin,
I second all four. And if you are already sniffing Chanels and VC&As, you might give Chanel Gardenia and VC&A Gardenia Petals a try, too.
Have you tried Hermes’ des Merveilles line? I feel like there is one in that line up that will suit.
Burberry Body, LANVIN Eclat D’Arpege, YSL Belle D’Opium,
Your description of “likes” perfectly describes Guerlain’s Mahora, now in their exclusive line as Mayotte, but Mahora is still available on ebay for much less money. More soft frangipani than tuberose, and while there isn’t any coconut in it, the dry down of sandalwood and vanilla manages to give off a soft coconut, sandy/beachy vibe.
My other suggestion is Les Nez Manoumalia, a gorgeous white floral with a vetiver base.
2nd Manoumalia! I forgot about that one. White Floral and earthy! Good one!
Thank you, I will try to find it online somewhere.
Why not Thierry Mugler’s Womanity? It is feminine, but not “too” feminine. It doesn’t cause headaches, at least on me.
Chanel No 22 has white flowers whose sweetness is tempered with incense. It is beautiful, elegant, and feminine, as well as unobtrusive as you have requested. I find it blends really well with my skin. It is now available in a smaller bottle so it fits within your budget!
I find it hard to think of a suggestion but the fact that we are both tall and athletically built makes me feel obliged to at least try.
White florals:
Estee Lauder: Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia
Malle; Editions de Parfums: Carnal Flower, Lys Mediterranée and maybe Une Fleur de Cassie or L’Eau d’Hiver
Diptyque: Olène, Ofrésia
L’Artisan Parfumeur: Nuit de Tubéreuse
You could order samples of most of these from Ausliebezumduft. Have fun finding what you are looking for!
I forgot another white floral that is really lovely.
VCA(Collection Extraordinaire) Gardénia Pétale
I think these are excellent suggestions and lots of lovely white florals have been nominated elsewhere (I am a fan of the genre myself). I suspect, however, that some of them might bee too strong for you and for a lighter touch, I really recommend Parfums de Nicolai. My first pick would be Le temps d’une fete – on me it is absolutely lovely, creamy (almost coconutty!), slightly green floral. But my perception seems to be a bit different than most reviews suggest, so you need to try yourself. Weekend is a delicate but complex herbal-floral-lightly woody mix and has that breath of sea air that you might enjoy. For more statement-making florals, Odalisque and Number One Intense are great options. And it never hurts to try L’Artisans La Chasse aux Papillons (if you haven’t already), it is popular for a good reason.
Seconding Number One. I’ve only recently discovered it and am still getting acquainted. I’d describe it as a relatively gentle white floral with a restrained but noticeable creamy tuberose note and a brief but bracingly tart opening (tagetes, galbanum, black currant). On my scent-eating skin it lasts at least five hours, with a moderate sillage for about four hours.
I personally adore Number One but I find it on the sweet side, if you like this one, you might also want to try Juste un Rêve. The Nicolaïs have a quiet elegance that I personally find very addictive. And there are few perfumers who handle “sweet” better than Mme De Nicolaï!
Serge Lutens L’Eau is a wonderful soft subtle magnolia.
Eau D’Italie has wonderful long lasting Eau de Toillete’s, including one called Magnolia Romona
Fracas is an IN YOUR FACE tuberose, but you might also want to try soft versions of tuberose, particularly Chasse De Papilion.
All of the above would fit your desire for something not everyone else is wearing.
If some perfumes are giving you headaches, there are probably very specific ingredients that are the problem. You might want to try an organic or natural scent, or (alas,) more expensive brands since a cheap synthetic may be to blame (If grocery store air freshners give you headaches, that would be the clue).
Oh, honestly I’ll be very interested to read everyone’s suggestions on this, too (that’s just exactly how I feel about Magnolia Nobile!)
My first thought was to wonder if Champaca is among the OJs Karen has tried so far, for a creamy, alluring floral.
I find Dior Grand Bal a creamy floral in a different way (not gourmand at all) with a very light woods element; it definitely counts as soft and unobtrusive, but beautiful.
Soir de Lune is another seductive floral that has some (again very refined) woodsiness. It’s more pungent than the first two I mentioned, so it could be too much or it could be just enough.
I find Chanel Gardenia really appealing; Jean-Claude Ellena (responsible for Jour) describes it as his favorite gardenia perfume “because it does not smell of the flower but of happiness.” I gather this departure from strict realism disappoints many gardenia devotees but for those in the market for a beautiful white floral, it might work!
Oh also: for lily and not-too-sweet vanilla, do try Un Lys from Serge Lutens!
Thank you! I have never seen Dior Grand Bal anywhere but I am going to travel to France in summer so I might find it there.
Un Lys is at the top of my list and I will try to get a sample today.
I sampled the Champaca but wasn’t in love, the drydown was odd.
In case it helps you track it down–Grand Bal’s part of Dior’s La Collection Privée, so Dior boutiques are the best bet for it. In the U.S. there are some department stores that have it as well (as part of in-store mini-boutiques), so that might be true other places as well!
I find the SL Un Lys to be overpowering and one-note, even for a lily lover. But that’s me 🙂
Really thoughtful suggestions. Second the Dior Grand Bal and Lutens Un Lys.
Thanks Charley! 🙂
Your preferences could match Christian Dior, New Look 1947
It is floral, but not “in your face”, a bit powdery, but very very understated, extremely elegant but never ever loud whilst having plenty of character.
The only white floral I own is my newly acquired bottle of Ubar, which I just purchased for just over your $160 limit. Getting to play with it a bit the past two days, I have been (pleasantly) surprised to discover it isn’t the enormous, sillage-monster I had expected. I only had a dabber sample before, but even with several full spritzes, I find it calms down to an understated, classy presence within an hour. I have also started to notice how nuanced it is, which has been very pleasant to explore.
I find it to be a mood-lifter, and it certainly isn’t commonly worn! Good luck with your explorations! I often use fragrance to help boost my mood as I get the courage to be a part of the dating world! (Or just to feel attractive and flirty when I go out–which is a good stepping-stone to actual dating.) 😀
What came to my mind was Donna Karan Signature–it has lily, woods and to my nose, a pinch of vanilla. Definitely doesn’t smell like soap to me 🙂
Second that! It’s a lovely floral.
Never tried that one! Must do so – it sounds right up my alley for this season.
I would propose Eau d’Italie line and Un Bateau pour Capri and Au Lac. The first one is said to be powdery, but I do not find it especially so. Both have flowers on a woody base, but either is not too much on your face with strong flowers or masculine base. I have only tried dabbers, though. but I think these may be worth a try for Karen 🙂
Another suggestion would be Fleur Blanche by Ajne. Gorgeous white floral with woods. She is based in California. Don’t know about International shipping. Check the site.
The perfume is excellent. Not sweet, not cloying. Just a wonderful natural perfume.
My suggestions would be Annick Goutal Songes,
Parfums de Nicolai Odalisque
Byredo Gypsy Water
Odalisque is a great suggestion! It has this hidden sensuality, and it isn’t sweet.
For white florals with vanilla notes, I recommend Donna Karan Gold (lily and amber), Annick Goutal Songes (jasmine and woody vanilla) or By Kilian Sweet Redemption (orange blossom and vanilla). And apply lightly 🙂
We cold almost be scent twins, and I’m wondering if the headache indcuing element is some of the scents you’ve tried might be tuberose? Tuberose is a white flower, but it’s my nemesis, and it might be for you as well.
There are lots of good suggestions here. I’d recommend Narciso Rodriguez Musc for Her Intense. This perfume is not intense at all – it’s a softer version, with white flowers, and is very wearable, pretty, and sexy. Tocca’s Colette, with sandalwood, vanilla, juniper, and incense, is also soft and sexy (men tend to like vanilla scents) and is not a sillage monster. I think it would be a great first date scent! Good luck and enjoy where your life takes you now.
Yes, I fear it might be tuberose which is giving me headaches (am also very sensitive to cleaning product scents).
Being scent twins: I will definitely check out Narciso Rodriguez Musk and Tocca then. And also try if a natural perfume works better for me.
The two scents that came to mind were Parfums de Nicolai Musc Intense and Weekend. Both seem to have a clean floral feel to them you might like.
I find some of the fragrances in natural lines to be less headache-inducing. Karen might try Reglisse Noire, Fleur no 1 & Narcotic Flowers (which isn’t actually sweet) from 1000 Flowers. Not sure if DSH ships overseas, but she has some really good ones in the YSL collection.
For a soft, woody non-foody vanilla, Diptyque Eau Duelle. Serge Lutens Clair de Musc is very understated.
Chanel Beige
Sarah Horowitz Parfums Perfect Veil
Eau Duelle and Un Lys seem like great suggestions to me. I would also strongly consider Mona di Orio Vanille. It’s a woody vanilla, not floral at all. Applied discreetly,it’s quite a man-magnet without being too embarrassingly skanky for first dates. It’s a higher price range, but decants are available and, applied one small spray at a time, will last a good long time. Might be a great complement to lily-scented soap!
I love Eau Duelle, and am anxious to sample Un Lys again, so I second these suggestions as well.
Definitely try Guerlain Lys Soleia!
Some great suggestions here. I also thought AG Musc Nomade would be excellent as a sexy skin scent, particularly when layered with lily scented soap perhaps.
Karen, I must confess, I do not believe most of the perfumes you describe as having tried, appeal to your Tango dancing side. I second the idea of you trying some scents from a natural line. I am going to go out on a limb and suggest you try Rose Boheme from Providence Perfumes. This beautiful, close to the skin, sexy fragrance would appeal to you. Not too sweet, not too citrus, and this is a natural, blooming rose with a rich amber base. Get a sample!
I am not usually too fond of too much rose but the description sounds really interesting. Plus, the amber base could be very appealing in combination. Thank you.
I had the same thought regarding the tango! Most tried perfumes seem to go more with the day job.
Not-too-sweet coconut + not-too-sweet vanilla + white flowers = Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess. Widely available and reasonably priced, too.
Perhaps Laetitia by Rancé for a soft, balsam-y vanilla with a bit of magnolia? And for me, Intuition by Estee Lauder has only the slightest hint of freshness before morphing into an amber-floral. The EDT version of L’Instant might be a softer version of magnolia-vanilla with a trace of musk. (I only have the EDP) Depends on your definition of sweet.
L’instant is too sweet for my taste and also too powdery in the drydown. But Rancé sounds great, will try to sample it.
Philosykos by Diptyque and Lancome Miracle
I’m seconding Egabbert’s suggeation of Donna Karan’s Gold which to me has an incredibly spicy warmth, the dry down is too die for sexy and it’s a wonderful fragrance in terms of development. Also seconding Kady’s suggestion of Bronze Goddess. It’s the ultimate mood lifter. If you like it, hurry to buy it as it’s not sold all year round! Good luck Karen, enjoy being single.
I have been trying to sample the Donna Karan for a while now but so far no luck. I guess I will order the FB online – the description sounds really lovely. Also the Bronze Goddess. I tried it ages ago and liked it, then forgot about it. Might be a bit too strong but a mood lifter would be perfect right now.
If you want I can make you a small sample of Gold?! i actually bought it blind and no regrets! I’ve never done a sample but I’m sure I could. Email me your address privately… ozone dot ka at gmail dot com…
Was just on Beautyhabit because I’m curious about i Profumi di Firenze’s tuberose. The brand has a magnolia scent called Magnolia Purpurea, and also a frangipani/coconut edp. Can anyone comment about this line?
Not that this is anything new or obscure, but how about Dune by Christian Dior? Pretty easy to find it in a store and give it a sniff in any case. Good luck finding your perfect scent!
Perfumes Karen should try:
Estee Lauder Sensuous
Estee Lueder Sensuous Nude
Bvlgari Jasmin Noir
Guerlain Samsara
Prada L’eau Ambree
Thierry Mugler Womanity
Elie Saab Le Parfum
I think you should try some of the Hermessence line: Vanille Galante for lily, Santal Massoia for woods and coconut, and Osmanthe Yunnan for its gentleness. And also the super soft Chanel Bois de Iles.
Another one from the not-new-or-obscure department: Gucci by Gucci is soft but with a nice presence.
Thank you all so much for the many thoughtful suggestions. I will order some samples today – most of your scent descriptions sound very very promising!
I picked up Pilates here in Germany and I love it! It’s a really fun way to gently improve my health and learn German at the same time. Have you tried the L’Artisan Parfumeur series? I have a similar reaction to many perfumes, and others give me headaches, but I’ve never had any problems with L’AP. I love their Havana Vanille for a sexy skin scent.
Wow a transition fragrance. I was only briefly into white flowers a few years ago and my recommendations reflect this, but did come across some memorable fragrances. For example Armani Sensi White Flowers, it’s discontinued but still available online. Shiseido Zen is another good example, the old edition in the white “pebble” flacon was wonderful but the new one is also quite nice. For a nice touch of spring, Aqua Allegoria Tiare Mimosa is nice and a bit tamer than Jour D’Hermes. If you can get D&G “La Lune” from a limited series they had, it’s also clean and relaxing. More white flowers can be found in Ralph Lauren’s creations such as
Romance (or even better – Glamorous) and in Gucci Rush 2.
Modern white flower fragrances tend to combine the clean relaxing white flower note with sparkly fruit or something sugary which is why my recommendations tend to be older. A clean white fragrance is also Narciso Rodriguez essence.
It sounds as though Karen needs to be recommended a scent which is light and “soft” – one of the main descriptions of her likes. Based on her favourite notes, I would recommend the following:
-Cartier Baiser de Voile
-Chanel Beige
-Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto
– Versace Crystal Noir (evening)
-Guerlain Mahora
-Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess
-Dior Forever and Ever
Pilates is the best!
My first thoughts were LesNez Manoumalia and L’AP Nuit de Tubereuse, suggested above. It would also be worth trying AG Songes, Honore des Pres Vamp a New York, L’AP Seville a l’Aube, and Kai.
If you don’t find what you are looking for and decide to splurge, I’d recommend the three puredistance perfumes.
What about Gucci Envy? The flowers (lily of the valley, hyacinth, jasmine) are light and not too strong or sweet. I love this in the spring or summer. Also FM Le Parfum De Therese?
I will echo Un Lys- my first thought. Another one to try: Sisley Soir de Lune. Have fun 😉