Today we're helping Fani, who loves perfume and wants to find her signature scent. It should be something she can wear year round, and she'd prefer something niche so she'd be less likely to smell it on others. She can spend up to $150, but needs suggestions she can find in (or have shipped to) Greece, where she lives. Here is what we know about Fani:
She's in her late 30s, and says her style is casual and classic: neither sporty nor suits & pumps, but somewhere in between.
Fani says she is introspective and imaginative, and loves to curl up in an armchair by the fire with a really nice book and a cup of tea. But she says she also has some fire in her personality, and she wants that reflected in her perfume.
She loves books and romantic movies, especially those set during the Regency / Victorian period (Ă la Pride & Prejudice). But she also loves vampire and assassin movies, and hard rock is her favorite music.
Fani likes oriental, spicy, incensey fragrances with amber and/or vanilla. Some of her favorites include Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche, Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan and Lubin Idole.
Fani dislikes fruity scents, and many florals (orange blossom, tuberose, rose). She also doesn't like anything overly sweet or aquatic, and she isn't fond of old fashioned or vintage perfumes. Fragrances that don't work for her include Clinique Happy, Thierry Mugler Angel, Lolita Lempicka, Armani Code, Miss Rochas, Caron Parfum Sacre, Chanel No 5, Aqaba, Estee Lauder White Linen and Guerlain Shalimar.
What say you?
Note: image is lettres by jenny downing at flickr; some rights reserved.
I recognize her, a little bit đ How about Ambre Russe, Chanel No22 edt (the Exclusifs do come in the smaller bottles now, don’t they?), Chergui, or EL Amber Ylang-ylang (may or may not be a tad too sweet)?
Some ideas:
Lutens Feminite du Bois (or the old Shiseido version, if you can find it) Ormonde Jayne Tolu
Malle Musc Ravageur
Good luck!
M. Micallef Gaiac; it smells like vanilla-caramel-incense-campfire. Absolutely delicious, not at all common.
I just tried this last week and agree it’s delicious. Reminded me of a cross between OJ Woman, YSL Nu and Serge Lutens 5 o’clock au Gingembre (all also worth sampling).
A couple more ambers to try:
Tauer L’Air du Desert Morocain or Incense Rose
Teo Cabanel Alahine
Oh boy! A mix of 5 o’clock au Gingimbre and OJ Woman (I don’t know Nu)? You’ve sold a sample of that one to me!!!
Dear Fani, You seem to like the same fragrance style as I do.
My recommendations for you would be as following:
1.Prada Amber
2.Prada Amber Pour Homme (why not try to adapt a man’s fragrance ito ladies perfume cabinet, this one is widely borrowed by women)
3.Prada L’Eau Ambree
4.Prada Candy (moderately sweet vanilla & toffee, yum)
As a lover or Orientals, I’d like to offer up Byredo’s Seven Veils and Kenzo Jungle L’Elephant (not much vanilla here, but lots of great spice). Others to consider are Jil Sander No. 4 (not an oriental, but a lush, classic, elegant perfume), and Guerlain Tonka Imperiale. Also, for a little tonka, vanille and frankencense; PdN Vanille Tonka.
Seven Veils and Bal d’ Aftique by Byredo. And I would say the sultan one from SL also Pafrums de Nicolai Vanille tonka
We like a lot of the same notes so I would suggest YSL Nu ( if you can get your hands on it) OJ Woman, Donna Karan Chaos and Donna Karan Essences Wenge ( gorgeous each on their own and wonderful layered). Also, Alahine and Costume National 21, FM L’eau d’Hiver and SL Chergui and Tauer l’air du desert Marocain. Comme de Garçons 2 and CG Avignon are fab as well.Have fun!
2nding OJ Woman and L’eau d’Hiver (not spicy but still a “warm” scent)!
Emphatically second FragrantWitch’s suggestion of CdG Avignon, and would suggest checking out the rest of the incense series as well.
Other possibilities: Bulgari Black (for vanilla and general wearable weirdness), Jacomo Art Series #08 (for spices, esp. cardamom), Bal a Versailles (if it’s not too old-fashioned), and Etro Messe de Minuit.
Oops, just noticed that orange blossom is a no-go, so scratch Bal a Versailles.
In its place, I’ll throw in L’Artisan Dzongkha. It’s a terrific incense-y scent, and is a bit different from Fani’s usual amber-vanilla style; might be worth a sniff.
Andy Tauer Incense Extreme
Andy Tauer L’Air du Desert Marocain
Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure
Matthew Williamson Incense
M. Micallef Shanaan
L’Artisan Passage D’Enfer
Casual/chic and all year round fragrances……..I second suggestions of Ormonde Woman and Dzongkha. They are both very unique and would work well in all weathers, and all occasions. For a sheer, edgy and ‘fiery’ oriental (!) try Timbuktu. A great spicy, peppery oriental is Isfarkand from Ormonde Jayne – would also work well with a fireside tea! I usually associate orientals and incense with winter/autumn, but these are quite sheer and not too dense and sweet, so I reckon would be good all- rounders.
Since you eschew florals, it might be worth branching out into a wee exploration of Iris……Heeley’s Iris de Nuit is dark and earthy and beautiful, and Ormonde Jayne’s Orris Noir is a spicy oriental with depth and guts. I’m not much of a floral girl either, but Iris is a good bridge in that direction for me! I’ve come to savour it!
Love Orris Noir!
I would recommend sampling the Histoires de Parfums line. They have a good sample program. I think you might like Ambre 114, 1725, 1740 and maybe 1876 and Noir Patchouli.
From Parfums d’Empire: Ambre Russe, Cuir Ottoman, Wazamba and perhaps Equistrius.
Another amber that I have not mentioned yet is MaĂźtre Parfumeur et Gantier’s Ambre PrĂ©cieux. MPG’s Fleurs des Comores is another great vanilla fragrance.
Parfums de NicolaĂŻ ‘s Sacrebleu, a beautiful oriental.
Dior’s Dune has been mentioned a lot lately on various blogs. Maybe you know it already, but it is very much worth a try if you don’t.
Have fun sampling!
I’ll toss in another vote for Ormonde Jayne Woman and Tolu – lovely scents, complex and intriguing. The Prada Ambree is nice as well, and although you don’t care for vintage, Chanel’s Bois des Iles is still one of the lovliest scents around – it might be worth a sniff.
I’ll second/third PdE Ambre Russe and Cuir Ottoman, OJ Tolu, Chanel Bois des Iles,YSL Nu if you can find it and add Guerlain Vol de Nuit, Etro Shaal Nur and YSL M7
The one I really want to suggest is Dior’s Ambre Nuit, but I think it might be well out of her budget!
Otherwise:
La Fumee- if she can find Miller Harris
Dune- maybe not niche, but still might fit the bill
Agree about Cuir Ottoman- nice amber leather.
And think maybe she should try Dior Homme and Guerlain L’Instant pour Homme.
Ambre Narguille Hermessence
Safran Troublant, L’Artisan
and you might like Guerlain Attrape Coeur
Since you love Lutens Ambre Sultan, try some of his other orientals, he is such a master in this type of perfumes: Chergui, Fille en aiguilles,VĂ©tiver oriental, Chypre rouge… the list could go on… Many Parfums d’empire might please you a lot too: I suggest FougĂšre Bengale and wazamba might enchant you.
If you have access to the Frapin line, you might enjoy Caravelle épicée and Bois de sarment.
In the «mainstram section» give a sniff to Gucci, Gucci pour homme ( the square brownish bottle) It is a remarquable perfume that can be worn by women and men , and also
give a chance to Dior Homme, It might please you a lot.
Good chance in your search.
Hope you’ll find many treasures on the way!
Isabelle
Sounds like we have very similar tastes. I would suggest a decant of Tom Ford’s Amber Absolute (you can get a pretty good deal on a large decant at The Perfumed Court). Prada Candy is good. Have just developed a thing for Diptyque Eau Duelle–vanilla that isn’t overly sweet, is a little woodsy, but lacks the vetiver note in Atelier Cologne’s Vanille Insensee that I just can’t quite like. Seconding the EL Amber Yl-Yl.
I second any of Diptyque ‘s offerings. Any of them but do stay away from rose scents they give me a head ache
The first perfume to come to my mind, is Bottega Venetta. Its soft suede oriental scent is both elegant and sophisticated, yet casual at the same time.
Others to try:
Chanel Coco
Feminite du Bois
Bvlgari Jasmin Noir
Estee Lauder Sensuous Noir
second Sensous Noir and Coco for mainstream
Maybe Etro Shaal Nur or By Killian Incense Oud.
I’ve commented a lot already above, but I am wondering about my recently discovered SL Serge Noir? It is a weird (ala SL) but wearable incense/smoke/spice concoction. I get a bit of the boozy, fruity base common to SL scents, but it isn’t sweet or overbearing at all.
Of course, the superfabulous Amouage Memoir would be a dream leather-oriental, but a bit out of the price range! (on the other hand, one bottle might be all you’d ever have to buy, since it’s so powerful!)
It’s challenging, I think, to find one scent that works year round. The most affordable, versatile and enjoyable spicy scent that I’ve sampled recently is Parfumerie Generale Indochine. Another scent that’s so beautifully balanced it could work all year is Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur. Enjoy the hunt, Fani!
I’m sorry for not answering before, but due to the time difference I only just got to see your wonderful recommendations. Thanks everyone!
Recurring suggestions seem to be:
Ambre Russe – I’ve tried and like that, just not sure it’s HG material for me. Will probably get a decant at some time
Etro Shaal Nur – I’ll definitely try this. The descriptions sound great
Prada Candy – I bit too sweet for me
Dior Homme – I like that, but also not sure it could be HG for me
Dune – Love that one but brings back some back memories:(
Cuir Ottoman – Will try it; didn’t know it was so rich in amber!
PdN Vanille Tonka – Love that one already; it’s in my wishlist
YSL Nu – I read last week that YSL will sell this again along with Yvresse and Y in 80ml bottles. If so, I’ll absolutely get a bottle
Andy Tauer LâAir du Desert Marocain – I really, really like that one too. WIll probably cave in and buy a decant soon
Prada Amber – I love that scent but it’s has zero sillage and little lasting power on me:(
Ormonde Jayne Woman and Tolu – I have been reading about OJ perfumes in many blogs recently, but I can’t get my hands on any:(
CDG Avignon – Love that one but my husband seriously hates it
Feminite du Bois, Coco, Bvlgari Jasmin Noir, Passage DâEnfer, Chergui I already own. Ambre Precieux is right on top of my to-buy list:)
I will also try some other scents mentioned here like Miller Harris – Fumee, Indochine, Caravelle Ă©picĂ©e, Lâeau dâHiver, M. Micallef Gaiac, Messe de Minuit, SL Serge Noir, EL Amber & Ylang Ylang etc.
Thanks again everyone for your suggestions!
I suggest a sample set of the Hermessences (with particular attention to the Amber and Vetiver Tonka)- and OJ discovery set. I also think the Prada L’eau Ambre. đ
Thanks HelenViolette! I will give Prada another try:) I hope I can get my hands on Hermessence and OJ as well.
Hope I’m not too late, it now being Tuesday. I’m including some peppery, incensy things to go with the ‘fire’ in Fani’s personality, as well as with the comforting ‘sitting curled up by the fire’ bit. Sorry if some of these are repeats of others’ suggestions.
– OJ Tolu + Isfarkand;
– Teo Cabanel Alahine;
– L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two (if you can find it – just confirmed that it’s being d/c, though I have, and wear, the room fragrance on which T42 is based – The et Pain d’Epices); Poivre Piquant; Saffran Troublant; Piment Brulant; Dzonghka; Dzing!; Timbuktu;
– Parfums d’Empire Ambre Russe;
– Histoires de Parfums Ambre 114;
– if you can do patchouli, then Mazzolari Patchouly and Montale Patchouli Leaves both have heavy amber mixed in with it;
– Nez-a-Nez Atelier d’Artiste (boozy ambery);
– Cartier Declaraton (great cardamom note in this – supposedly a masculine);
– Parfumerie Generale L’Ombre Fauve; Coze; Un Crime Exotique;
– Serge Lutens 5 o’clock au Gingembre; Fumerie Turque; maybe Fille en Aiguiles and Serge Noire though these could be too heavy;
– Etro Palais Jamais and Gomma (weird, rubbery, smoky things);
– Guerlain L’Instant pour Homme;
– Balmain Carbone (incense, pepper, smoke – unusual);
– Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Ambre Precieux
Some great suggestions in there Tommasina! Some I’ve tried, some I have and some sound exactly what I’m looking for đ And yes, I don’t mind patchouli at all, on the contrary, so I’ll give those two a try as well. I’m particularly interested in Nez-a-Nez Atelier dâArtiste. I’ve tested Ambre a Sade from them which I really like and has great longevity but find it a bit sweet, so AdA sounds very promising!
mmm… I seem to like a lot of what Fani likes.
My last purchase was Jeux de Peau by Serge Lutens. It’s odd and nobody likes it, but it’s definitely warm. I also own the brilliant Dzing! and it’s far quieter, but not less spectacular. And, completely different, I also like Eau des Marveilles by HermĂšs. It’s salty but still warm… although a bit orangey (the saltiness makes it less fruity, though).
I meant “not everybody likes it”, oops! I really like it and so does my fiancĂ©!