Over the years, I’ve been told I smell like 1.) a Christmas tree, 2.) an ashtray, 3.) a sacristy, and 4.) an “ethnic” gift shop. On each of those “occasions” I was wearing an incense fragrance.
I’ve never reached the saturation point with incense-centered colognes. I love incense (and incense perfume) in all seasons. The aromas of frankincense, sandalwood, halmaddi, agarwood, kyphi, and copal can take me on a sensory journey from chilly European cathedrals to steamy Southeast Asian temples, from ancient North African and Mesoamerican pyramids to the high and dry deserts of the American Southwest. For me, incense evokes rites, festivals and magical landscapes.
Montale Full Incense includes notes of cedar, labdanum, patchouli, elemi, and frankincense. I don’t know if this fragrance is “casting a spell” on me, but I can smell each of those notes, though frankincense and cedar predominate. Full Incense does not smooth out its incense notes with citrus or sweeten them with lots of vanilla: Full Incense is incense pure (resinous with a hint of “cold” ash and residual sweetness — benzoin? — in the extreme dry-down.)
Full Incense reminds me of Cire Trudon’s Spiritus Sancti room spray, which I also enjoy. I layered Full Incense with Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensée and it worked beautifully, and I’m betting the woody incense of Full Incense would layer nicely with tobacco, vanilla, rose, musk and spicy fragrances. If you’re familiar with incense blends from Asia, Europe, and the Americas, Full Incense falls into the European, ‘Catholic/Greek Orthodox’ category scent-wise. Full Incense has good lasting power and sillage; it is not, as we say, “wildly original” but it’s not “basic” either — it’s a bold and classic incense fragrance.
I know many people who think incense aromas are best reserved for “ambiance” products (room sprays, candles or actual incense sticks and cones). These folks don’t like incense on skin; they chant: “I don’t want to smell like church (or hippies…or monks…or New Age-y meditation classes”…etc.) Though it often incenses them, I feel it’s my job to point out that many of these same people don’t mind smelling like department stores, florist shops or Laundromats. So, there!
Montale Full Incense is available in 50 or 100 ml Eau de Parfum, $125/$185; for buying information see the listing for Montale under Perfume Houses.
Note: top image via Wikimedia Commons.
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This scent reminded me of the cedar chests my mom keeps all of our childhood clothing and mementos in. After years on sitting inside, everything has a sharp, resinous smell that lingers through multiple airings and washings- I found that out the hard way when I reclaimed one of my father’s old high school track t-shirts.
Anyway, while Full Incense does kindle fond memories for me, I did not really enjoy wearing the scent too much. It was incredibly cedar-dominant; the ‘incense’ notes faded within 1/2 hour, leaving to the cedar to sour and linger on my skin for hours, even surviving a shower (just like that track shirt!)
I’d be very interested in hearing others suggestions for a more well-balanced cedar fragrance- or even a room spray or candle.
Halimeade: do check out the comme des garcons incense series…lots to choose from in many styles/strengths.
I will add it to my list, thanks : )
Kevin, thanks for your review. I am going to Vancouver on Saturday and Full Incense is on my list. I decided to buy a FB after sampling it there a few months ago. I know, I know , it is wrong time of the year and am a female, but I really love Full Incense. Will try to layer it , too.
By the way, today’s weather in Seattle is not a typical summer heat..
Behemot: no, today is rather drab/drizzly! Sometimes I wear incense fragrances on really hot days and love the sensation.
I will certeinly try FI on a hot day, if we ever get one!
Incense fragrances are my favourite & one of the main reasons I love them is because they are so evocative. I don’t mind smelling like High Mass or Marrakech. Many of my incense perfumes fondly remind my fiance’ of his days living in China & the temples. Fortunately, I’ve never experienced any disdainful remarks from others when wearing it. I’d rather smell like an old European cathedral than freshly washed laundry. If someone were to mention that Avignon smelled vaguely crypt-like, I’d agree wholeheartedly, that’s part of the appeal.
I adore incense type fragrances as well- Pacifica Tibetan Mountain Temple is my ‘signature scent’ in a way. I always get positive comments about it from others. I think patchouli is really the only note that makes other wary, for the hippie connection, but even then, I’ve never had a complaint myself.
Yeah, I don’t wear patchouli — in fact, I think the only fragrance I have that has patchouli is Midnight Poison & I have a real love/hate relationship with that perfume.
I have yet to try Pacifica Tibetan Mountain Temple but I am intrigued now.
I love it, its both sharp and sweet on me all at once. The lasting power is not that great, but at only $20-25 a bottle I love that I can drench myself in it and not feel guilty.
klytaemnestra: I second all your statements! HA!
Kevin, thanks for a great review!! I too love incense on skin (or anywhere else for that matter)! I’m surprised you didn’t include people who want to smell like a fruit bowl in your list of what people don’t mind smelling like!
Basia: I guess I don’t know many fruit bowl types?
I share your love of incense frags; in fact, I purchased Parfums d’Empire Wazamba based on your review and have really enjoyed it. This Montale sounds like a good one. I’ve been looking for a *basic* incense to layer with (like Keihl’s is my basic musk and Coty Wild Woods is my basic woods, and I love to layer with both of them.) Thanks for the review!
Rosarita: you’re welcome
I found this to be a Heeley Cardinal, but stronger. I do like this and other incense fragrances. My latest love is By Kilian Incense Oud.
C: I need to find my sample of that By Kilian…it got lost in the shuffle!
Lol at ‘incensing people’- too right that you reply that many don’t mind smelling like a Laundromat etc! I’d rather smell like an old stone church any day.
FragrantWitch: see, even witches would prefer smelling like church to a Laundromat!
Thanks for this review, Kevin. I adore incense perfumes and look forward to trying this one. (Like FragrantWitch, I laughed at you “incensing” people. 🙂 )
Jill: hope you enjoy this one…that is if you’re not already overstocked with incense perfume.
Kevin, i suspect you are responsible for me owning 3 of the CdG series (which I do enjoy!) So here, in defense of my wallet, I hold up my rosary, say psalms, hold up my amulet, and would light a candle, but I’m afraid that may lead to fragrant trouble…
Merlin: run to a niche nd pray to a saint (one that loves frugality): QUICK!
Great review and thanks for putting this back on my radar screen. I think that I can cadge a sample from a friend who went wild for it. I share her tastes, so it may be just a matter of time before I’m reaching for my wallet!
Fruit, detergent, strawberry lollipops… yup, I’d much rather waft the scents of an ancient temple.
melisand: these Montales come fast and furious…hard to keep track
Good review Kevin. I like incense too, so i will have to seek this out.
R07: Thanks…and I hope it pleases.
I’ve shied away from Montale largely because there were so many similar-sounding scents. It was just SO much easier to test the small number of ouds in lines such as Amouage and By Kilian, which led straight to the fabulous Homage Attar, Pure Oud and Rose Oud.
Nevertheless, loving your delightful review and image as always, I’m planning to try this Montale in solidarity with all who refuse to smell like a laundromat! We shall overcome!
Noz: we will overcome!!!!!!
Great review, thanks! I love incense fragrances, especially unisex or those marketed to men because they seem to have more oomph. I wear my husband’s Gucci Pour Homme a lot in the winter and will look for this one to sample.
RuthW: I keep hoping someone in Seattle will carry Monales but can you imagine the shelf space or the perils of curating a selection? I always have to order samples.
Incense has really grown on me – the first one I really smelled was Tauer Incense Extreme, which put me off the whole genre for a while. His Incense Rose started bringing me around. Since then I have picked up a few. Actually my favorites right now are Smell Bent Incensed and Tibet ur Bottom $ – the Tibet is resinous and the Incensed is churchy – combined they are wonderful, and I liek them individually as well.
I do want to try Kilian Incense Oud on skin soon – it is quite swoony. I also like Cardinal quite a bit.
I like that you “incense” people, too. I don’t know why the smell of worship is so off-putting to people – maybe because I didn’t grow up having it forced on me.
Tama: where I grew up in the US one never smelled incense! It’s just not used as it is in other cultures around the world.
my fav incense is the Christian Lacroix tumulte (pour homme?) and especially in the summer!!!
HKM: I love Tumulte too (the men’s)
I am trying to avoid incense perfumes but as curious as I am I try them very often and they most of the times give me a pleasant surprise. Like CdG Kyoto. Even though my hausband said I smelled like church. Well actually like temple. But what he knows ;-)).
christmas tree, ashtray & sacristy?? you must be perfect as an ornament kevin 🙂
just so happens im wanting to retry the other incense fragrance available in my area here in asia
unfortunately i dont think montale is available here.. how does this compare to CDG incense series (that one is available here)?
i love smoky/incense scents too.. some of my faves: CDG 2 Man, encre noire, m7, dzongkha, l ‘eau trois & even acqua de parma cipreso di toscana.. currently topped by CDG kyoto which for me personally evokes peaceful as peaceful can be
im wanting to revisit CDG jaisalmer and avignon.. though my only complain about the CDGs is that they seem to vanish quite quickly from my skin.. but anyways, they are good while they last 🙂
i owned tumulte but ironically and unfortunately it made me nauseous mid-bottle 🙁
and while we’re at the topic of smoky and incense, i re-do a shout out to diptyque.. feu de bois candle in perfume form s’il vous plait!! 😛