Fabio wants our help to find his perfect fresh-but-not-too-fresh (possibly ozonic/marine) summer fragrance to round out his summer scent wardrobe. Musts: less than $150, good longevity and sillage. Here is what we know about Fabio:
He's in his late 30s and lives in Milan, where he works in an office.
Fabio is "a very classical guy, sometimes old-fashioned, sometimes preppy, but definitely an elegant Italian".
Fabio goes to the gym regularly, loves photography, squash and reading (Dickens and Tolstoy) and traveling when he can.
Fabio's would prefer that his new scent not be too widely used. He'd also like it to be classy and elegant, and more "melancholic" (like the sea in autumn, or like the sea on a gray rainy day) than sporty. He already has a number of summer favorites:
Creed Green Irish Tweed: elegant, perfect for dinner out.
Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta: perfect for a Sunday out with friends when the weather starts to be very warm.
Gucci Pour Homme II: nice subtle tea note and retro/70s feeling.
Fabio also has his winter fragrance needs covered: favorites include Guerlain Habit Rouge & Coriolan, Chanel Antaeus, Burberry Brit, Ralph Lauren Polo Green and Lorenzo Villoresi Spezie.
Fabio dislikes gourmand fragrances, coffee notes and vetiver.
Here is what Fabio has tried so far for his fresh summer fragrance:
Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio: good, but too widely worn.
Versace Pour Homme: not unique enough.
Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue: too fresh.
What say you?
Note: top image is Kildale Post Box by deargdoom57 at flickr; some rights reserved.
Fabio should try:
Puro Lino
Laura Tonatto Oltre
Mr. Hulot’s Holiday by CB I Hate Perfume might work for you.
That was one of my first thoughts as well.
I second that, worth a try for sure and one of my favorites from that line.
Well, I had a couple of really good ones until I got to the “dislikes vetiver” part 🙁 I was thinking Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel and/or TDC Sel de Vetiver. But never mind those. Then I thought Profumum Acqua di Sale, but it’s too expensive.
So I’m going to suggest CSP’s Aqua Motu. It’s not one of their better known scents, which means it’s also not one of their vanilla dreck things. It’s described as a relaxing and sunny marine scent which blends the invigorating ocean breeze with the discreet warmth of sand. Slghtly sweet but only very slightly, and available at a reasonable price.
I think he should try those anyway. 🙂 But glad you pointed out the vetiver… I missed it, and was going to suggest Guerlain Vetiver.
CSP Aqua Motu gets my vote too. You already have a great description of it, but I’d just add that to my nose it smells like a “real” beach. It doesn’t last as long as I’d like, but it does last longer than most oceanic/fresh frags I’ve tried….
I’d recommend Ferre’s Bergamotto Marino. It’s really beautifully done…some bergamot, orange blossom, a little jasmine and a slight ocean-y feel – perhaps it’s the ‘seaweed’ note. Anyway, it’s a fantastic alternative to the Acqua Di Gios of the world and can be found online on the cheap.
NST review: https://nstperfume.com/2006/03/16/bergamotto-marino-by-gianfranco-ferre-fragrance-review/
I second GF Bergamotto Marino, it was my first suggestion when I read “oceanic”
Maybe some of the L’Artisans: L’Eau de l’Artisan, Navegar, or Cote d’Amour? Fabio could also try Hermes Jardin Apres la Mousson. I also think he should look at Eau Sauvage, MPG’s Eau Pour le Jeune Homme, and maybe some of the PdN eaux.
IF you are going to check out Hermes, then don’t miss Eau des Merveilles – has notes of elemi, bitter orange, Italian lemon, Indonesian pepper, pink pepper, ambergris accord, oak, cedar, vetiver, balsam of Peru and tears of Siam. It immediately reminds me of the sea. Good luck!
Eau de Merveilles is really nice – I tried it just the other day and immediately thought it wonderful.
Oh…and coming back to add Neil Morris Mariner, just because it’s so interesting.
How about Armani Pour Homme (the original)? Because it’s original it is not that widely worn (introduced in early 80’s). I think it’s a good one.
I second the Bergamotto by Ferre ,another two worth trying are Sel Marin by Heeley and Bois Naufrage by P.Generale.
Good luck.
Heely Sel Marin was my first thought, so I’ll second that.
Or what about Eau Sauvage?
Sel Marin was my first thought too, so thirding that.
Maybe Olivier Durbano Turquoise? That has an interesting marine note and I generally don’t like those. Over the price limit, though, I think.
One of my favorites marine frags is Bvlgari Aqva, but it might be too common for you. Instead maybe try Kenzo pour homme, or something from the Dsquared2 line. i also think something like Thierry Mugler Ice Men, or Lanvin L’Homme Sport would be a good addition to a summer wardrobe, and set themselves apart from the bland unoriginal stuff you’ve listed.
Ricktor, you beat me to the punch. Bulgari aqua is IMHO the Absolute BEST of the latest crop of aquatic perfumes, as much maligned as they are nowadays, it is also original and melancholic, and as such I believe it is not selling so well… Therefore making it ‘exclusive’ in a way.
My personal theory is that bulgari aqua was ‘too sad/melancholy’ for an aquatic frag… It turned out to remind people of dark green seas (the posidonia? I love it!) instead of happy beachy scenes. Basically it was a Debbie-downer.
So bulgari quickly whipped up ‘aqua marine’ which is calculatedly as bad as EVERY OTHER acuatic marine out there. But surely, it does not evoke stormy cliffs 😉
Please give the Divine line a try. Their L’Homme de Couer is a wonderfully elegant iris and you will smell like no one else.
Second taking a look at the L’Artisan’s recommended above.
How about sampling the Carthusia line? They’re well done, in the $75 range for the EDT’s, and there are several that might work for you! VIa Camerelle comes to mind first 🙂
Love Carthusias! Great suggestion!
For “classy, elegant and melancholic” there’s only one scent: Guerlain’s Vol de Nuit, preferrably vintage. And you won’t smell it on anyone else either!
Timbuktu, L’Artisan
L’Eau Neuve, Lubin
Declaration, Cartier
I was also going to suggest Timbuktu. How about Beth Terry Mare? Very marine! IndieScents is now carrying a new line called Slumberhouse (also on etsy) and they have a couple of marine fumes…Mare and Ness…
A couple more wonderful marine fragrances that haven’t yet been mentioned:
Brezza di Mare, by i Profumi di Firenze — A beautiful, refreshing combo of citrus, sea salt, and a touch of watermelon.
Li Altarelli, by Stephanie de Saint-Aignan — This was inspired by the smells of Corsica. Gorgeous lemon, herbs, and florals with the sea in the background.
These aren’t melancholic, though. For some reason, I think Fabio might like Serge Lutens Gris Clair. While it isn’t a marine fragrance, it is classy, grey, and unique.
Oh, so glad you suggested Gris Clare! That was my impulse, but I thought my newbie status might be swaying me the wrong direction. I think it accomplishes that melancholic freshness nicely.
your description made me think of the editions de parfums line by Frédéric Malle, you should find them at least in 2 places in Milano (the perfume shop in Brera and 10CC), the smaller bottles could be in your budget. First recs, even if a bit off your brief: angéliques sous la pluie , geranium pour lui
ops, geranium pour monsieur..
Profvmvm di Roma – Acqua Salata, it really is sea water, melancholic and elegant. As well Bond n.9 Eau de New York may work for you, it’s more citrusy, vibrant and edgy. I know, you said no vetiver, but Chanel Sycomore just seems so right… Give it a try, it’s very unusual vetiver there.
Stephanie de St. Aignans Embruns d’Ambre-an oceanic amber. I don’t know how she does it, but it’s fantastic!
Dixie! I should have mentioned this one, too. One of my favorites!
Like with a few others Eau Sauvage came to mind.
Also worth checking out might be one of Parfum de Nicolai’s fresh fragrances — they are very classical and classy. The one that comes to mind is Vie de Château, which has no marine note, but is fresh but a bit whistful at the same time.
and 3 more
Préparation Parfumée, Andree Putman
S-ex, S-Perfume
CDG 3
Lostmarc’h Ael-Mat
Frederic Malle EdP Bigarade Concentree
I think Fabio should try Roadster, Eau Sauvage, He Wood, Un Jardin en Mediterranee and L’Eau d’Issey.
I would suggest Fabio to try Ca Luna by Aqua di Biella and from the Nobile 1942 Pontevechio Cologna Maxima and Estroverso. The first one is a melancholic, bitter skin scent that manages to be refreshing at the same time because it smells so pure. Pontevechio is a very modern take on the Cologna theme, full of woods and with a very unique smokey note. Estroverso starts very citrusy but soons develops into an exquisite, tasteful, aristocratic cologna.
Late to the party but adding L’Artisan Dzongkha, which is “fresh” in an unusual way and quite melancholy at times, and Thierry Mugler Cologne (don’t know how common that is in Italy though).
Dear all,
I am very happy for all these suggestions.
I am also glad for the high range of tips You shared with me, which allows me to test several fragrances, prices, houses.
I will have my “sniffing-tour” this saturday morning, so, please, come back on Sunday to see my feelings and maybe share more thoughts.
Once again thanks (grazie!),
Fab
Fabio, sorry I’m late, but I’ve been pondering your likes and dislikes since yesterday: I was totally hooked by your description of melancholic scents (” the sea in autumn”) as this is one of my very fave genres, too! I have a few suggestions.
For oceanic/salty, how about the new Dior La Collection Granville? It’s a riff on Eau Savauge, a very classic, classy manly scent, with a lemon-and-black-pepper note that reads as “brisk salt breeze” and grey seas to me.
Not oceanic, but more along the fresh, elegant and melancholy line, I will suggest two of my all-time favorites men’s scents: the re-issued Donna Karan Fuel For Men and Parfums de Nicolai Nicolai Pour Homme (apparently being discontinued, so sniff it while you can.) The new unisex Nicolai fragrance, L’Eau Mixte, is wonderful, too. Nicolai’s Odalisque, at least in the older formulation when it came in 50 ml bottles, is very salty/fresh and a true underappreciated classic, but is also very sweet (and sweeter recently) and perhaps not “manly” enough.
Four votes for Heeley’s Sel Marin now and also suggesting Cartier’s Must Pour Homme: not sure how common the later is in Milan, and it’s not overly fresh, but you might like it as a fan of Anateus and Habit Rouge.
Erin, no one’s late until Saturday!
🙂
Thanks for your help
Hmm,… interesting requirement.. may I suggest Chanel Egoiste.. its one scent I personally love during summer..
Though you mention not liking gourmand.. i still venture to stick my neck out and recommend Ralph Lauren Polo Double Black.. the mango note in it makes it just a little bit more zany than your run of the mill department store mens cologne..
And last but not the least, Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight In Paris.
I should also add that anything from the Heeley line would be excellent. Especially Sel Marin, Menthe Fraiche, Iris de Nuit… All of them are beautifully crafted, transparent and long lasting at the same time.
Fabio — try the Eau d’Italie line. The ones most evocative of melancholy are Paestum Rose and Sienne l’Hiver.
Here are some great reviews by Chandler Burr:
http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/01/24/scent-notes-paestum-rose-by-leau-ditalie/?scp=1&sq=paestum%20rose&st=cse
http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/07/10/scent-notes-sienne-lhiver-by-leau-ditalie/?scp=1&sq=sienne%20l'hiver&st=cse
Another suggestion I have for you is L’Artisan’s Voleur des Roses.
It is the rose scent which I find gives the scent of melancholy…
As far as a “marine” scent, I would steer you towards Profumum’s Acqua di Sale, and perhaps Ichnusa.
I love the suggestion of Eau Sauvage, which I see as a classic. Try to find a vintage bottle; I have heard the reformulation is not as good as the original. Personally, I am helpless in its presence, and have been known to swoon in its wake, and follow the scent trail off buses and down streets…
I would suggest Francis Kurkdjian Cologne pour Le Matin or Acqua Universalis – great day/summer scents, bright and fresh and light without being too intense. As a man I find florals great summer wear, especially in the evenings and have loved Kurkdjian Lumiere Noire Pour Homme, Serge Lutens Sarassins and L’Artisan Voleur de Roses on hot summer nights. If you like Habit Rouge have you considered Habit Rouge Sport? Also if you like Chanel, Pour Monsieur is a winner.
A couple more thoughts in the Annick Goutal line which are all class and summery for me.. Eau d’Hadrien (or the more intense Hadrien Absolu), and slightly more subuded and melancholic are Les Nuits d’Hadrien (wonderful evocation of blossoms and citrus fruit in a night orchard), Mandragore (or better still Mandragore Poupre, both variants of a spicy bergamot scent) and Duel (citrus, iris and tea). Others here have also raved about this line’s Ninfeo Meo.
All,
I’ve started my tour: one perfumery shop and two niche.
I trully want to thank everybody for all the beautiful feedback and for guiding me in this amazing sniffing-trip
So far:
* I have my citrus perfume needs already satisfied by Colonia Assoluta,
so I have to exclude “Eau de Merveilles” (which reminds me a less mineral TdH), “Eau Sauvage”, “Bergamotto Marino”, “Armani pour homme” and “Carthusia”.
* I have found out I dislike strong Mint notes (I can’t help but thinking to toothpaste).
so I have to exclude “Geranium pour Monsieur” and “Roadster”.
* I had two good surprises on
AQVA (definetely has a sad note, which I like, and I can imagine wear it in 5 years or so, as it’s too common nowadays) and KenzoHomme (never test it before, it’s very good and -as 20 years old- almost unused).
* I also found out I do not dislike Vetiver! Actually, on me, I couldn’t stand Guerlain Vetiver, Etro Vetiver, TF Grey Vetiver, Lanvin Vetiver…. but
I liked a lot “Fleurs de Sel” and “Sel de Vetiver”! I like the salty notes, but I have to think if I feel the a bit feminine: your opinions?
* Due to my skin, which definetely drinks in 15 minutes L’Artisan Parfumeur,
I have to exclude all the suggestions. The S-A told me that AP uses biological and not chemical ingredients, so I can’t expect the same longevity. He let me also test “Cote d’Amour” which is good, but vanishes on me.
*It was too sunny for my needs,
so I have to exclude “Aqua Motu”. They also let me test “Eau de Lagons” but these do not have the melanchonic note I was looking for.
* “Sel Marin” is very good. Top notes recalls me too strongly the sea, but after 10 minutes was correctly balanced.
* I found too feminine,
so I have to exclude all the “Stephanie de Saint-Aignan” line , “Paestum Rose” and l'”eau d’Hadrien” (which remainds me my g/friend DG Light Blue).
* The “Profumum” line is too price, so out of my budget.
* I feel “Declaration” and “Egoiste” too heavy for a summer fragrances, but I can imagine myself wear them -every now and then- in fall.
* Last but note least, ”
Gris clair” I like it a lot. It’s not the marine I was looking for, but -as You said- it’s classy and melanchonic…
PS: I also have Habit Rouge Eau de Toilette légère, but as it was a limited edition, I now it can be added to my wardrobe.
As You see, I have just test a part of my list, but I am already enthusiastic!
I’ll keep you updated (if you wish) on my tour and final decision
I don’t think the Sels are too feminine at all! Glad you’re having fun exploring, finding some things to try, and reporting back. (That’s our favorite part, by the way.)
wow, you did some work there! Since you’re in Milano you might be interested in visting the “esxence” show in 2 weeks time, if I’m correctly informed it’s open to the public on the 2-3 May. It’s probably going to draw in all European perfumistas who can manage it 🙂
sorry, April