Today we're helping Erin. She loves perfume, and says her "day doesn't even seem to happen" if there's no perfume involved. Her problem: her tastes run to warm weather fragrances, but she really wants to find an appropriate — and sophisticated — fragrance for cold weather. Bonus points if she can afford it on her graduate student budget.
Here is what we know about Erin:
She's just about to hit 30.
Erin works out strenuously most days of the week, and she reveres coffee, bourbon and great food.
She's writing her dissertation in literature (British Literature, 19th Century, to be exact), and says "while I span the Romantics and the Victorians, I find myself at home with neither aesthetic (sorry--nerd tangent)".
Erin says that when she finds a fragrance she loves, it's like "olfactory nirvana". The closest she has gotten to this feeling is with Hermès Un Jardin Sur le Nil, her current favorite. Prior loves have included Armani Aqua di Gio, Trish McEvoy Sexy 4, Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert and Fresh Violet Moss.
Most of the fragrances she has tried in her search have been too overwhelming, too sweet or too astringent. Orientals don't work well for Erin, she doesn't like vanilla fragrances, and she finds most of the classic Chanels to be Too Much. Davidoff Cool Water was nauseating. Anthropologie Belle du Soir was a bit too close to aftershave, but she liked the sparse aspect. Aftelier Cepes and Tuberose was too sweet and too heavy, Afterlier Candide was "too frothy and kind of seemed to lack precision", Aftelier Tango was a little too sweet.
What say you?
Note: image is Post Box by at Living in Monrovia at flickr; some rights reserved.
What about Malle’s Eud d’Hiver? I know there are sweet notes (honey, especially) mentioned in its description, but it is so sheer, well-balanced that I think you may well enjoy it nonetheless. The crisp opening would definitely play into your preferences, and the drydown is well-suited to colder months without being cloying.
Plus, despite its name (and the fact that it is quite wonderful in winter), you could easily wear EdH year around…which helps take away the sting of the price (that and getting the cheaper “refills” helps as well).
L’Artisan Timbuktu is a dry, sophisticated fragrance that easily could be worn in cold weather. It’s transparent, and the warmth of the darker notes are uplifted by a greenish (almost bitter) crisp note. This one has to be applied to skin to be appreciated!
What about Rive Gauche? Yes, it’s a reformulated classic, but the reformulation is still very good, and the scent is affordable (see the YSL website). Rive Gauche has aldehydes, but it’s not nearly as heavy as any of the Chanels. It’s more of a green scent to my nose.
Maybe L’Artisan Tea for Two? You can get the 50ml for a better price point. Some reviews compare it to Chai tea – I’m not so sure about that – but it’s spicy and warm and works well for fall/winter. I don’t find it to be sweet or overwhelming. If Erin is comfortable with Hermes she might want to try Elixir des Merveilles which is also nice in cooler weather. I once read a review saying it was like eating shortbread. Again, not sure about this association, but I like this one very much and it doesn’t get much love in the blog world.
Tea was my first thought as well. T42 is nice, but it does tend to veer sweet on me; still, well worth trying. If it’s too sweet, maybe Bvlgari Black.
I want to second Elixir de Merveilles — in fact, since 2 of Erin’s favorites are by perfumer Jean Claude Ellena, she might want to just do some sniffing over at Hermes, maybe try Elixir des Merveilles, Kelly Caleche, Eau Claire de Merveilles, Terre d’Hermes (for men but works quite well on women), etc. They don’t all sound like perfect fits, but who knows.
Translucent though substantial:
31, Rue Cambon + Chanel 18 Chanel Les Exclusifs (smaller bottle hopefully available soon)
Vanille Galante, Hermessence (not like Vanilla, slightly aquatic)
Lovely, Sarah Jessica Parker
Hi Erin,
you were not really specific about what notes you actually like, still based on what you described, and knowing you like Jardin Sur le Nil, you might try Cuir de Lancome if you like leather scents.
It is not heavy on the leather, a tiny bit smoky at the beginning, then it is greenish-floral, no overwhelming notes at all, good for any occasions.
this is my favorite this winter : )
Hi, thanks so much! And you are right, it’s hard to be very specific when I’m not exactly adept with knowing which are the notes that I find so elevating. I know that I like dry woods, tea, smokiness, green citrus and grapefruit (not so much orange and lemon), iris, violet, and, unlike the rest of these, gardenia. I also like tuberose, but the Aftelier was a bit too much on me, although I really enjoyed it as an experience. I almost loved the Prada Iris, but it was just slightly too pale, if that makes any sense… I think I like the linear nature of Ellena’s fragrances, and will most certainly check some of those out (good call, Robin!).
oh yes, iris
my fav scent for a long time
if you enjoy Ellena’s compositons you should not only try the hermes line but also their on company together with his daughter, Celine, The Different Company. Their iris scent is truly unique and peaceful, Bois d’ Iris: iris, woods, bergamot
but if you prefer a more feminine, powdery iris, try Annick Goutal’s Heure Exquise – iris-rose-sandalwood heaven
enjoy the quest : D
Hi Erin,
My suggestion is Diorella. It has the citrus notes that you seem to like but also depth and warmth. It’s certainly neither sweet nor astringent – for me it is Just Right. Like Un Jardin Sur le Nil it is defintely unisex and I think it has brains 🙂
Excellent suggestion!
Kind of difficult since the only clues I am getting is that she works out strenuously,reveres coffee, bourbon and great food. Since she didn’t provide any information on the type of notes she prefers, I’ll suggest something from Amouage since it seems to me from her bio that she has a somewhat refined taste.
Hi Dolly2, I responded in more depth to Ami, above. Thanks for your help!
Eau de Sisely no. 3, or Bois 1920 Vetiver Ambrato…unfortunately not great on the budget.
Her tastes to me seem to run in the direction of “fresh.” I recommend the Prada line, both Infusion d’Iris and L’eau Ambree. Also, she should give Diptyque L’Ombre dans L’Eau and Philosykos a try.
I second the L’eau Ambree! It’s nice and easy to wear. 🙂
I would suggest OJ Woman (or just getting the Ormonde Jayne Discover Set)…if you like Sur le Nil, I’ll bet an OJ will make you happy! (it did for me anyways! 🙂 )
I second OJ Woman-just stunning!
I third this one, but it might be out of her price range…
Ormande Jayne was the first one that popped into my mind…it is not linear though! Gorgeous, gorgeous scent
1. Terre d’Hermes
It’s got Ellena behind it, it’s earthy salty interesting, it has interest without cloying heft. Plus, I’ve also enjoyed some of Erin’s previous loves (hello, au the Vert), and gone down the lit path. 😉
2. Havane Vanille
Sure, it *says* vanilla, but I suspect it’s not the vanilla Erin does not like. On a similar “yes, but” note, it’s rum not bourbon, but I’d argue a kinship. On the personal connection front, I once toyed with Fresh Violet Moss, an interesting but ultimately unrewarding diversion.
3. Wondering about Chanels being too much…has Erin tried Bel Respiro? (Now available in smaller bottles, grad student. 🙂 )
4. Speaking of fresh…the new Dior, Granville? It’s a different garden. Maybe that one would bring Erin to a happy place…though the graduate budget, not so much.
😀 My “yes, but” is Lubin Idole, also rum. Sheer spicy goodness. And I also thought of Bel Respiro, but then remembered she’s looking for a cool weather frag.
Love the Lubin and the price is pretty good (especially if you catch a sale on Beauty Habit)…it is a little strong though. Erin seems to like more transparent scents. On the other hand, Lubin IS linear (which she said she likes).
i’m a HUGE fan of Bel Respiro, but for me it is more like spring, not winter
What about FM Bigarade Concentree, a more robust citrus that would be lively and warming in the winter. Also, since you don’t like orientals in the winter, how about a woody fragrance for warmth? I’m going to suggest Hermes Terre de Hermes because you seem to like perfumes by Jean Claude Ellena, who has a “transparent” style.
Tussah may be on the right trail. The vetivers may form a bridge between the warm- and cool-weather scents: Sel de Vetiver, Vetiver Tonka, and (for the coffee lover) Vetyver Cafe.
Erin – i bet you would love Atelier’s Oolong Infini – it has the green, leather, and tea notes you seem to like, and it’s a wonderful all-season scent.
I would try some of the Heeleys – they are lightweight but some, like Cardinale (light resinous incense) and Cuir Pleine Fleur (one of my favorite leathers), have cool weather potential.
I agree with the Chanel Exclusif suggestions – that whole line is great, and the small bottles are very affordable. And the Hermes, too.
I suggest trying Blanc from Paul & Joe. Similar to L’eau d’Hiver but great for a gal on a budget. Other budget-conscious suggestions: Amber & Honeysuckle from Lucy B, Ex Libris and Contemplation from Tokyomilk. In the more costly category: L’Artisan Dzing! and the new Traversee du Bosphore. Also, I absolutely love Miller et Bertaux #1 Parfum Trouve.
I agree wth the PJ Blanc! I bought this unsniffed and it was really worth it! Lovely, easy go-to scent!
Glad you mentioned Traversee du Bosphore – I’ve been wearing it for the last two days and thinking how perfect it is for this time of year. Great for any situation, too, I would think.
Hmm, something fresh, but for cold weather. My recommendation is for Comme des Garcons: Zagorsk. Also, im partial to bourbon myself. Whats your favorite, Erin? I still have quite a few on my list to try, but im liking Knob Creek these days.
Knob Creek is a favorite of mine too! It kind of depends on the season for me–in winter I like the warmth and smoothness of Woodford Reserve, in the summer I like the spicier bourbons, like Bookers. They’re just so good… 🙂
“Clean” but still intelligent, and with mineral depth: Voyage d’Hermes. I just bought the smallest bottle (the 30ml), and discovered that the enormous refill is much better value – so when it runs out I’ll fill it using that. Plus – who can resist that rotating buckle-shaped little sculpture? I’m not sure it’s great for winter if what you’re looking for is warmth, but it’s working really well against the wet, cold landscape by adding a complementary facet to it, and I can’t wait to try it out in early spring.
I second Voyage! A bit tart at the beginning but smooths out and wears well for sure in late winter/spring. I have too many heavy winter favorites inappropriate for summer so haven’t tried this when it’s cold.
I think you would enjoy Hermès Voyage d’Hermès, Hampton Sun Privet Bloom or Annick Goutal’s Ninfeo Mio. I am pretty sure that you would like Chanel Eau de Cologne which isn’t too pricey if you buy a small bottle.
Ninfeo Mio is great for summer – cuts right through the heat…
Both from your previous loves and the few impressions of your general tastes, it seems Ellena really is your man. Even if you don’t end up buying it (as I didn’t, for price reasons), you’ve got to try Eau d’Hiver. Ellena on top form and a beautiful year-round scent. Just don’t expect it to warm you, this one echoes the chilliness of its namesake. And yeah, have a sniff around the rest of the Hermes line – as a number of people have already mentioned, Voyage might be a good one, as long as you like coriander seed and cardamom!
Also, call me crazy, but what about Dune (Dior)?
Hi Erin! This is my first time suggesting ‘fumes for Monday Mail, so I’m sorry these are total shots in the dark.
How about DK Black Cashmere? To me, it’s more of a woody-incense scent rather than an oriental.
Prada Infusion d’Iris might be good too! It’s definitely not overwhelming, and perfect for cooler weather.
Also, I know you said the classic Chanels are too much, but how about Bois des Iles? It’s not as powdery as the other Chanels and I bet it’s beautiful in cold weather.
Good luck!
These are great suggestions Plumeria! Bois des Iles is never wrong, and I think the others are spot on, especially for cooler weather scents.
It’s rather nice not to try to follow notes for a change. Sounds like maybe Erin wants a neat, new perfume experience. Just going to throw out a nice smoky tea scent: perfumerie generale eau rare matale.
Also, um, I find biehl parfumkunstwerke’s pc01 doesn’t clash with sweat — oh, guess that would be summer…
I also highly recommend the Ormonde Jayne discovery set. There are several that I think would catch her fancy based on her likes. (And if she does find a dear one to buy- the travel set is a great cost effective option- which can be split or she can sell off one or two on Eb*y)…
Seconding Black Cashmere, Ninfeo Mio, and Timbuktu, and wondering if Erin might like Yatagan.
Agraria Bitter Orange or the Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan?
Bond No. 9 New Haarlem
I’ll join the chorus recommending Terre d’Hermes and Voyage. What about Dior Eau Sauvage or Guerlain’s Vetiver? Both are targeted at men, but excellent on a woman. Vetiver pour Elle would be great, but too dear to the wallet. SMN’s Eva would also be a good thought in this fresh, vetiver theme.
A completely different direction, more toward the coffee/leather notes would be L’Artisan’s Eau du Navigateur. (not Navegar, very different!) Best wishes on your search.
If you like Jardin Sur le Nil, I’d recommend Frederic Malle’s En Passant – it works well in cold weather. Also, for some reason, on cold, dry days I enjoy cold, dry florals like SL’s Bois de Violette and Guerlain’s Apres L’Ondee (might have to do bottle splits or decants on those).
Wow–I really appreciate all your suggestions! Since I now know I can try fragrances not easily found outside of a big city in smaller doses, I can see I have my (super-exciting) work cut out for me! It’s great to have a group of experts to help me, perhaps it won’t take another 3 years to find a perfume I love.
Thanks :).
Apres L’Ondee came to mind for you. It just seems to match with what you study. It’s a light, breathtaking floral.
Bulgari Omnia-mainstream but unusual, and not sweet(this is the original in the brown bottle).
VC&A First-this smells more like a classic chypre but it is by Jean Claude Ellena. It can also be found online for a good price.
The Different Company-Bois d’Iris by Jean Claude Ellena and Sublime Balkiss by his daughter Celine. Bothe of these are just wonderful and I think you will like them.
Bulgari Omnia is great
I third Omnia! It’s winter-ready without being the least bit heavy…a sheer saffron, almond scent with a hint of spice.
Also, through discounters, your can get this one pretty darn cheap (I got my full bottle for about $28.00) so you could still have money left over for others, too!
Another idea that is budget friendly: go to the Sonoma Scent Studio website and order a couple of samples. These are great scents, you won’t smell like everyone else, and they are very well priced!
I agree with the commenters above- Ellena is your man. I second the opinion to try Malle’s Eau d’Hiver & DC’s Bois d’Iris, both by him.
I agree with Ormande Woman, Omnia(original brown bottle) and Sonoma Scent Studio . i have Champagne de bois …it is amazing..as is femme jolie . You might want to give ambers a try too! Amber fetich, ambre sultan and if you can get out of your budget and find it…attrape coeur
Oh and fumerie turque, serge lutens is dry, smokey and a little sweet
if you like woods and violets try and enjoy a sample of Bois de Violette, Serge Lutens!
Hi Erin,
what about A.Goutal’s Les nuits de Hadrien and L’Artisan’s Passage d’enfer?.
Good luck.
Hello Erin, all of the above sound great, have you tried Mugler cologne, great after work outs, clean washed smell! Also for the colder weather, I would reccomend Marc Jacobs l
sorry got cut off I mean the Marc Jacobs biscotti cologne (i’m afraid it comes in 300 ml only) however wonderful for cold weather dry but with a kick of italain almond biscuit goes with the bourbon!
You and I sound like kindred spirits, my best friends in grad school were my espresso maker and Old Crow. I second Après l’Ondee, Hermes Voyage, and Bel Respiro. You might also like Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmin White Moss, it’s very cozy and green. And if you’re really looking for something that won’t break the bank, Pacifica Avalon Juniper is a nice wintry crisp grapefruit and juniper.
Give a try to Barney’s Route du Thé.
Cheers!
P
My recommends are Bulgari Omnia , a great chai tea scent,very affordable and my current favorite JCE , Un jardin en Mediterranee.
A lovely scent with cedar and green notes.Good luck in your search.
P.S, for a lovely smokey note, try some vintage Habanita. It goes great with bourbon and a wood fire.
Just out of curiosity, which authors are you focusing on as you’re writing your dissertation? I have a BA in English from UCLA and am still to this day a total book nerd, so this topic interests me greatly! 🙂
Perfume-wise, I agree with the recommendations for Frederic Malle L’Eau d’Hiver. I love it and wear it, myself.
Hi there! My main focus is on Coleridge and George Eliot, but there are (many) others thrown in…
I just ordered a sample of the Hiver, and a few others. So excited!
Book nerds, forever!
Coleridge, interesting! I really like The Eolian Harp (I wrote a paper on it in college). To this day, I can’t think of him without thinking of opium dens. I suppose a douse of YSL Opium would be especially fitting as you work on your dissertation, no?
Book nerds unite! 🙂 And best of luck to you!