Amy, who comments here as alltheprettythings, wants our help finding a new perfume. She's got lots of favorites already, but she gets bored easily and would like to find another. It should be something she can wear anywhere, in any season. She can spend up to $200, and she is in New York twice a week — not far from Aedes! — so her access to perfume stores is excellent.
Here is what Amy wants us to know about her:
My personality: raised to be a Lady (Brit Mum), so am very proper in manners and decorum but am a 38-year old small business owner secret-wild-child with a love for vintage clothing, dancing, laughter, all sorts of music, breaking rules, smashing glasses in joy and anger, impulsive, creative...
I am so not into Shalimar, but will happily wear Bvlgari Black and sniff at Angel but won't spray it. My most loved item in my closet is a dahlia-red military coat belted coat by Laundry, and my most coveted and searched for item is a Persian Lamb coat with mink collar. And I love tights and high, high heels. I love Valentino couture but can afford Goodwill and outlet shopping.
Amy likes notes of orange blossom, patchouli, amber, vanilla, musk, orchid, honey, leather, tobacco, gardenia and tuberose. Some of the perfumes she has in rotation at the moment include:
Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb: she wore it to her Art Deco wedding in Washington Square Park, so it has a special place in her heart.
Chanel Allure Sensuelle: she hates the top notes, but loves the "lovely smoky base with elements of elegance and refinery" and she gets lots of compliments when she wears it.
Gucci by Gucci Eau de Parfum: "I could drink it."
Fendi (with domed cap): "The crazy, smoky, leathery piece of work available for a song. The drydown is magnificent. Top notes? Not so much."
Lancome Magie Noir (vintage): "I feel hopeful when I wear it, and as if I'm riding towards the pyramids in Egypt under a moonlit sky."
Hanae Mori Magical Moon: She likes the dry down but not the top notes.
Hanae Mori for MEN: "yum and fun."
David Yurman Eau de Parfum: "Am embarrassed by how much I love it. I blew through a large 2.5 in record time."
Aquolina Pink Sugar: "I am sick, I know but I like it in secret."
Kenzo Amour: she likes the Shower Honey better than the perfume.
What say you?
Note: image is you've got mail. [cropped] by e³°°° at flickr; some rights reserved.
You should really try a sample of Back to Black by by Killian. I resisted for a long time because of the price (and the name), but I finally sampled it and it is the best honey note I’ve found and I just love the sweet tobacco drydown. A full bottle with the fancy box is $225, but you can get a set of travel refills for $70. It also lasts on my skin all day and all night.
If you like honey, orange blossom, tobacco, and patchouli, you really should try Field Notes From Paris. It also has beeswax and tobacco flower and is quite different from what I expected. My appreciation for it grows each time I wear it. I’m julia941 at yahoo and mua. Drop me a line and I will send you a sample.
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille is sort of hard to find now, but I love the honey/tobacco note in it as well. I guess I’ve been on a honey/tobacco kick lately. L’AP Havana Vanille is another good one with a boozy opening.
Another vote for the Ineke…that was my first thought too.
I third the Ineke….and the Back to Black . Both excellent suggestions.
I fourth the Back to Black – it’s the first thing that came to my mind both from reading the notes and the other frags that you like.
It is almost note for note what she listed! I have other perfumes that list similar notes, but Field Notes smells completely different from the other tobacco/honey fragrances I have been trying. I can’t really say that it reminds me of anything else I have or have sampled. It is certainly not something you will smell everywhere you go, and a FB is more reasonable than many and very pretty.
Thank you!
Great recs – I tried TF TB and it was all pipe tobacco on me, unfortunately. But if anyone else loves it, Ive seen it at CCO outlets.
I am intrigued that alltheprettythings is living life intensely and staying true to her lady-like roots. PdN’s Sacre Bleu is intensely beautiful – it inspired the most poetic description in the Luca Turin/Tania Sanchez guide.
Oh, don’t be so intrigued, nozknoz; it’s more a cultural quandary than anything else – trying to uphold old-world values living in a modern world is the classic good-girl/bad-girl complex, only more Catholic and repressed. 😉
Luckily I have sisters who help. 🙂
Perhaps Histroire des parfums is worth trying.
The Tuberose Trilogy and speciallly TUBEROSE 3-ANIMALE is really something. It’s more a kind of leather smokey tuberose very interesting and it suits the dahlia-red military coat for sure. It gives it an unexpected twist….
I also highly recommend sampling Tubereuse L’Animale.
Ack, I think I’m in love before I’ve even started!
I would recommend L’Artisan’s Passage D’Enfer – it is a light, bright, flowery incense that is wonderfully perky in the winter months, and easily wearable in summer ones too.
It seems you like leathery, tobacco scents – in which case, I would recommend Andy Tauer’s Lonestar Memories. That would go well in any season, I think. In general, the Tauer line is pretty spectacular and unique and well worth getting the sample selection. Reverie au Jardin is a lavender based scent, but not a polite english country garden lavender. There is something ‘vintage’ in its feel and works well in any season. And, of course, his Rose Chypree is vintage elegance in all its glory!!
Also Second the Andy Tauer’s Un Rose Chypree, wearing it today, and love, love, love it, Dark Roses, green leaves, hints of narcissus, spicy cinnamon, and vanilla.
Along slightly similar lines, you might try Eau D’Italie’s Paestum Rose. It’s an earthy, incensey rose. Very unusual.
Also, Knize Ten is a great leathery vintage scent.
And it occurred to me that Frapin 1270. It uses cognac as its main inspiration and has gourmand notes – coffee, cocoa, prunes, ornage, nuts – honey, vanilla, deep woods. Very nice!
Gosh, sorry – I keep thinking of things after I;ve posted……I should really write them down on a piece of papaer first, then post….
But Frapin have a scent called Terre de Sarment which is rather lovely, and the notes seem to fit with your scent-tastes. This si what Les Senteurs’ website says of it…..
“The scent of the warm wet earth: a beautiful arrangement of the smells of a spring morning in Champagne. Top notes of grapefruit, neroli and cumin reveal incense, orange flower, myrrh and muscat. The warm base is a mix of benzoin absolute, vanilla, & tobacco. Freshness and sensuality, innocence and pleasure.”
I love Passage d’Enfer!
Me too! I’ve become quite addicted to it this winter. It’s very bright and cheerful for the dark, cold months! I wish it was longer lasting, but as Robin says in her review, it would mean changing its composition which is perfect as it is.
And another to add to my list!
Le Labo Patchouli 24: smoky, leathery, vanilla with plenty of edge.
Les Neriedes Patchouli Antique: Another complex smoky patchouli with vanilla and amber notes.
Cuir de Lancome: A lovely floral leather. Hard to find but wonderful.
Parfume Generale Cuir Venenum: Orange blossom leather.
Cuir de Lancome is available right now at Amazon.com for something like $37. !!!! I’m deciding whether to pull the trigger or not…
OH! check out parfum1.com 1.7 oz, 30.75 and she’s got a 10% off running right now. or if you just want, say 10ml, I’ve got a bottle and I could share some.
New to NST, love your picks, I second the Le Lobo Patcholi 24 also she can try Incense Rose, it is citrusy, and spicy/orange mysteriously beautiful and classy.
In the Patch 24 vein, but for a whole lot less money, and I liked them better is SSS Fireside or Fireside Intense. Both beautiful.
In the leathery/smoky vein, I find le labo patchouli 24 utterly intoxicating. As is always noted it is similar in personality to bulgari black – same perfumer, same striking contrast between warmer/sweeter and odd industrial notes. But I find patchouli 24 more fun, wilder while still being subtle and totally wearable. Try it, you might like it.
ah, monkeytoe posted while I was writing this! 🙂
Seems I have similar taste in perfume, Amy. I would encourage you to try CHANEL 31 Rue Cambon – definitely something you can wear year ’round. Sophisticated. Not edgy, but gorgeous.
Hmmm . . . Amy and I are fragrance sisters. I also love honey, tobacco, smokiness. I just got a sample of Lutens Chergui. It is a beautiful fragrance. Also, I haven’t tried them myself but plan on making a trip to Neimas Marcus to: L’artisan Tea for Two and Havana Vanilla.
Love all 3, and was also going to suggest Chergui but had to get on a conference call. 🙂
I think she should give Chergui a try as well. It is such an unusual, lovable fragrance. And the honey and tobacco, yum!
I actually personally find it a bit dry to be “me,” so while I will enjoy my sample I won’t be buying a bottle. Nonetheless, I really appreciate it as a fragrance. I am super excited to try some of the L’artisans though. I almost made it to Neimas Marcus today but stayed late at work so it didn’t happen.
Chergui is one of the few SL’s I’ve tried and the name is on my list… I should make this one a priority.
I would have said Malle’s Le Parfum de Therese, Montale Sweet Oriental Dream/Patchouli Leaves, Chanel Coromandel (not sure how much this is), or hunt around for some vintage Schiaparelli Shocking.
Coromandel I have tried, as well as the other Exclusifs and sadly nothing had hit me as exciting. I had the entire mini collection and passed it on to a friend…. probably a mistake, but none stood out for me at the time.
I suggest Mona di Orio line. Somewhat classical, somehow bohemian and spicy soft, make me think of a parisian night out in the 20s… This said based on a few samples. I do not own a bottle of any of these.
I thought of this, too, as I tried Jabu just yesterday. It’s gorgeous! But is it available in the US? Anyone?
Jabu is a beautiful honeyed orange blossom with depth and warmth. I was thinking of it before I saw these particular comments. H, I’m glad you got to try it; I recently bought a decant and love it. Not sure of US availability.
Ooh, now that I like!
Tabac Blond extrait is great for smoky, leathery sweetness. I know the reformulation has been much maligned but what I’ve sniffed both from the urn at Bergdorf’s and from my decant from TPC, it smells pretty great, although I would probably be weeping along with everyone else if I had ever smelled the original…
I second Tabac Blond, and also recommend trying my new love, Narcisse Noir. Listed notes are orange blossom, bergamot, petitgrain, lemon, rose, jasmine, jonquil, Persian black narcissus, musk, vetiver, civet, and sandalwood.
I also have a hunch, Amy, that you would like Parfums DelRae Amoureuse, a very original pollen-y honeyed beauty. Listed notes for that one are tangerine, cardamom, tuberose, French jasmine, Tahitian ginger lily, cedar moss, sandalwood, and honey.
oof, Tabac Blond parfum is a gorgeous scent. It brings to mind Cuir Mauresque by Serge Lutens. It’s spicier and skankier than TB, and I love it!
Agreeing with the Tabac Blond suggestion. It’s smoky, sexy and avant garde. Also, I’m of the opinion that you can’t go wrong with a really great Caron. Expect lots of compliments on this one.
Comme des Garcons Daphne.
Daphne Notes-
bitter orange, incense, saffron, rose centifolia, Tunisian jasmine, tuberose, iris, patchouli, oud, amber, vanilla
I was just going to mention that! Daphne basically encompasses *all* of her favorite notes, and has that sort of dirty, loud, party-crasher side that reminds me of Tara Reid before her liposuction.
Daphne immediately jumped into my mind while reading this post.
I hope she is able to sample it.
I agree that Amy ought to try Histoires de Parfums. It’s the first thing that popped into my head when I read her likes and dislikes. I would direct her to the ones labeled with years from the 19th Century (1804, 1826, 1873, 1876; aka George Sand, Eugénie de Montijo, Colette, Mata Hari). No idea where they can be found in NYC, but I know a sample pack is available at beautycafe for $15. At any rate, even if they don’t contain her HG, they won’t be boring.
http://www.beautycafe.com/histoires_des_parfums.htm
I believe HdP is available at Miomia in Williamsburg (Brooklyn). I have not been there yet, but am planning a trip.
Second the recommendations for Chergui!
Takashimaya has them too. I tried the 3 Tubereuses there over the weekend. I like that HdP has a mix and match discovery set–you can choose 3 different scents (or the same for that matter but the point is you can choose).
I second nozknoz’s nomination of Sacrebleu. I just participated in my very first split in order to acquire some of this odd little gem.
I also suggest Divine by Divine for the pretty floral lover in you, Chanel Cuir de Russie for the leather (and floral) and last but certainly note least I’d say Une Histoire de Chypre which was made for Aedes by Molinard using an old 1920’s “recipe”. To me has a Magie Noire vibe – in fact I think I like it even better than MN.
Seconding the Chanel Cuir de Russie. Gorgeous.
For smokiness-Bois Farine.
For edginess-Serge Noire.
The Ormond Jayne line is worth exploring.
These are all fantastic high-end suggestions, but since Amy mentioned that her budget is “Goodwill and outlet shopping”, I recommend L de Lolita Lempicka (not exactly cheap either, but much more reasonably priced than a Lutens or Malle). It has the sweetness of some of her favorites (Pink Sugar, Flowerbomb) and the touch of smokiness gives it a little more complexity.
How about some Chinatown, sweet, and spicy and long lasting:) or Keiko Mercheri Loukhoum…sugary, sweet, milky @ calming,
Ooh, good call on the Chinatown. I own about an ounce and love it to pieces, although I wear it extremely rarely. I haven’t tried the Loukhoum, Perfume Smellin’ Things just had a post on it that made it sound delicious.
I totally know the urge to be wrapped in pelts (vintage of course!) this time of year! Channeling my alter ego, the Pelt Shaman, here are some scents for mink swaddling:
Carnal Flower: Available at Barneys. Makes me think of a film noir starlet – seductive and opaque.
Lubin Idole: Aedes perhaps? Dark rum spice party, perfect for the pirate king draped in sable.
Annick Goutal Neroli & Chevrefleur (sp?): Saks? Neroli to freshen up delicate lace dresses which have started to crumble in storage. green enough to scare away any lingering Miss Havisham.
And some cheap thrills:
ChocoLovers (Shh… I like Pink Sugar too, and this is a replacement for my beloved Fresh Fleurs de Chocolate and Lucia. The chocolate/orange is very well done.) Demeter Gingerale. Joy (I found the EdT at Walgreens for $20). Angel Rose (Minis for dabbing turn up on ebay.) Caleche.
Hi Amy
I’m way late to this party but I have some recs. And btw, I’m amazed to see how similar our profiles would be.
First-Sikkim, for it’s lovely exotic dry spicy & woods notes. Much akin to Fendi and vintage Magie Noire. I can send some to you if you’d like-I’ve got a stash…….
I’d also recommend Feminite du Bois by Uncle Serge, it has lovely honey and dry woods notes with fruity plum and peach with spices (clove & cinnamon). If you can get the original by Shiseido, it’s worth it. I think the re-release is slightly different. I just checked E-bay and they have a few bottles for under 60 us.
Third-and this is a discontinue frag, but do try Gucci III if you can. Woods moss and spices, with rose throuout.
You are very sweet! They sound amazing!
Let me know if you would like a sample. You can reach me at SFLizbeth on Makeup Alley.
Oh, Amy! I think Gianfranco Ferre’s Ferre by Ferre in the black, net-covered boule would suit you perfectly. I say this because you wear all of the following: Fendi, Flowerbomb, vintage Magie Noir AND Pink Sugar. It’s not terribly expensive but is IS hard to find — about like your domed-cap Fendi. Ferre is dark, light, delicious & as retro as your Persian lamb coat with the mink collar. Give it a sniff.
Etat Libre d’Orange Divin’ Enfant. Sample can be purched at The Perfume Court.
That is purchased at The Perfume Court
I forgot to mention that the nose behind Ferre by Ferre is the great Pierre Bourdon & that it’s a very oriental-feeling floral aldehyde.
Amy as you’re a vanilla fan i highly recommend Indult Tihota. It’s a deliciously creamy, sexy vanilla with honey & musk notes. It has become my vanilla HG. It’s a bit over the $200 mark but definitely worth every drop.
ooo! an orange blossom person…I share my LOVE – mdci le rivage des syrtes! but also like Laura Mercier Neroli, second the vote for Field notes from Paris, am strangely drawn to Bond 9 Silver Factory this week and you might enjoy once it dries down,
flower bomb was also a first love for me…so you might like MKors very hollywood…I get strong gardenia from it but reminds me o flowerbomb…
Just for fun, Unicorn Spell…les nes…
what about the profumum range, roman house make real perfume i love the dulcis in fundum but this maybe too sweet for you, they have a great amber, which i dont know the name but you can check their website. Also great is aqua e zuchero of the same house. try also Le Mome by balmain intersting vague hints of magie noire more modern, not run of the mill!
If it’s tuberose, it must be Fracas.
I have it, love it, it was my first real perfume. (Fracas)
Just catching up to everybody, Amy, and hope you’re still reading.
I am pretty sure I “get” your nose, because I am nuts about rich fruity woody florientals too. I’m zeroing in on those, because you adore David Yurman and Gucci by Gucci and I know exactly what you mean about Magie Noire and Allure Sensuelle.
Some of these have been mentioned already, and you have a huge list of recommendations, so good luck in New York. Here is my short list:
DelRae Bois de Paradis (especially) and Amoureuse
Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois
Donna Karan NY Signature
Mono di Orio Nuit Noire
l’Artisan Aedes de Venustas,
MFK Lumiere Noir pour Femme
By Killian Back to Black (def. in Flowerbomb territory)
MPG Bois de Turque (especially; right up your alley, A)
Badgley Mischka
Costume National 21
Lolita Lempicka Minuit
Van Cleef & Arpels Feerie
Annayake Tsukimi
Parfumerie Generale l’Oiseau de Nuit
Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu
Robert Piguet Visa
biehl pc02, eo01
Bois 1920 Real Patchouly
Bond No. 9 Chinatown
Tom Ford Purple Patchouli, Black Violet, Japan Noir
and for inexpensive, easy-to-find department store hits if money’s tight, although you might have tried these: CK Secret Obsession, Ralph Lauren Notorious, D&G The One, Estee Lauder Sensuous and Escada Magnetism (much like Flowerbomb and I bet you can find it cheap at the discounters!).
I think I need a new spread sheet for sampling! Fab recs and yes, you totally get my nose.
Pre-FlowerBomb and perfumerie in general, I was a closet Magnetism fan and had Sensuous for almost a week before I passed it on. Classic Obsession is great in certain pulse points; the review on Secret Obsession scared me away, but your primary list gives me a great starting point and my rainy day fund is now going towards knocking off the ones I haven’t tried. Thank you for your time!
Eeek!!!! I’ve got an ear-to-ear grin, Amy. I am delighted that we’ve been able to be of service. It’s so much fun to share ideas: makes all the endless buying and swapping and testing and begging for samples from stingy department store SAs worthwhile. 😉
PS – I also love Badgley Mischka; the classic.
Thank you everyone for the recs… I have an amazing list to try out and will get cracking on it straightaway. I will update!
And thank you Robin for agreeing to put my request out.
And damn you Christopher St. for having 2 of my greatest weaknesses – Perfume and Puppies.
I either lick or scorn the windows of Aedes and have already brought home a puppy (mini schnauzer) from Le Petit Puppy across the street. What’s worse is when I sleep over in NYC, my hotel is right down the street and I spend more money than I make!
Dearest Amy, do you have room for just ONE more?? It just came to me: M. Micallef Automne. It’s got a whole whack of stuff you like and it is a total must-try!!! It’s got that larger-than-life Flowerbomb intensity, and let’s see now, do I have the notes? Yep, just found them:
Bergamot, mandarine, strawberry, raspberry, gooseberry, blackcurrant, lily of the valley, nutmeg, vanilla, sandalwood and white musk.
The more I think about it, though, looking at the first list, the more I’d put my money on DelRae Bois de Paradis as the next big thing for you. Between that and the Micallef, you might strike it rich. 😉
From reading your description, the first potion that popped into my head was Frederic Malle’s Lipstick Rose. I could soooo see you wearing your red military coat with it, and of course, the very proper Persian lamb coat.
Also, try Kiki by Vero Profumo. Apparently, she has just come out with an EDP version. It is a fun scent — laughs and sunshine — with a very Parisian core.
Oops! Just remembered another one — Dzing! by L’Artisan! Cotton candy and burnt leather.