Eloïse is a young 20-something living in Montreal, and she'd like to find a new perfume, something "feminine, sensual but with a beautiful, charming twist". She'd prefer niche to mainstream, but she'd like to keep the cost under $175.
Eloïse has brown hair and green eyes, and describes herself as quick, sentimental, and sensual but in a subtle way. She prefers a classic look, and loves high heels. In general, she likes old things over new things, and she'd love to work in a museum. She thinks of perfumes as "atmospheres", and her perfect perfume would reflect a mix of...
Buster Keaton movies, a Native American mystic, perfectly cut dresses, the feeling you get when you are in the natural history museum, 1940's film noir decor, glitters and fireworks, Louis XVI royal receptions, a day spent at making yourself beautiful with overpriced stuff, an edgy and wonderful fashion show, Victorian houses and gardens, the way you feel when you flirt with a guy you like.
She does like powdery fragrances, but says they're "never edgy enough". She also likes citrus, flowers, and prefers synthetic aromas to natural ones. She does like Narciso Rodriguez for Her.
She does not like patchouli, or clean, fresh scents. She found Prada's Infusion d'Iris and L'Artisan Iris Pallida boring, and she did not like Donna Karan Black Cashmere or Annick Goutal Heure Exquise.
What say you?
Note: image is ei, seu carteiro! by .mands. at flickr; some rights reserved.
Ok I guess I have to give 2 options:
1: Very Very inexpensive. This is a fragrance that was once all the things you describe before. Now, as it has gone out of fashion, it is available at incredibly (and I really mean it) low prices: The fragrance is Quartz, by Molyneux.
2: Very Very Expensive: Estee Lauder Tuberose Gardenia. This is, IMHO also all the things you describe before.
I hope this helps! the quartz is still very sexy, and as you are very young, you wont be biased with “but I've already worn it in the 70's!!!” 🙂
I think she should order the wonderful Ormonde Jayne sampler and then chose a perfume from the vast selection. At first, I thought of Ormonde Woman or Orris Noir sounded like her, but also Ta'if and perhaps Frangipani. So…the sampler might be perfect for her and then she can pick her favorite.
Hi Eloise!
I loved your “atmosphere”-based perfume description! I'll make my suggestions accordingly:
-“cuir ottoman” from parfums d'empire (the edge being the leather, and the 1940 glamour being the rest! I love this one so much – I think everyone should 😉 )
– “oud wood” from Tom Ford (1940's film noir decor – as most of Tom Ford's exclusive line. To wear with red lipstick)
– Paestum Rose from eau d'Italie (a peculiar rose+citrus+wood scent. Buster Keaton movies)
– Borneo 1834 from Serge Lutens (“very edgy fashion show”, you said. The Gareth Pugh of scents. I have problems with the smoky opening, but the drydown is gorgeous. If you find it harsh, Fumerie Turque is a much tamer take on the subject)
– Jicky, Guerlain (in extrait or EDP, it's Versailles in its glory. Fêtes et intrigues à la cour du Roi!).
Hope you find your HG!
1000 de Jean Patou (never fails), Anthracite de Jacomo…
Yes.
You could try another Guerlain while you're sampling Jicky – it's called L'Heure Bleue. I've waxed rhapsodic about it on this website already, so won't do so again! But you should read the excellent review by Kevin.
I reckon it captures all of the things you like. It's classic, old and hugely atmopsheric. It's definitely not clean or fresh. L'heure Bleue is quite melancholy and dark. But as far as attending fashion shows and then walking in a victorian garden after a thunder storm, this ticks both boxes and it's one of Kate Moss's favourite scents!!!
Wow, what an evocative description. My first thought is not niche, but it sprang to mind instantly – Blvgari Blv Notte, which is a wonderfully sensual scent where the powder just sort of smooths out an interesting combination of ginger and iris, but somehow the whole thing feels dark and musky-sexy, not bright like the notes might make you think.
And another thought – FM's Parfum de Therese seems to me to be just the mix of femininity and personality you are looking for.
Finally, second the Ormonde Jayne sample set idea.
Good luck!
Hi Éloïse! Have you tried the état libre d'Oranges line? They were on sale last friday at Holt Renfrew montreal (around 50$ for the 50 ml), and you might like a few of their perfumes. The description of your tastes makes me think you might love their “Vraie Blonde” or their jasmin et cigarette/tabac. To my nose their most fascinating scent is sécrétions magnifiques, which also fits your description quite nicely: it's as edgy and weird as soft, polite and elegant can get. A milky metallic, dry wet, chilly warm, animalic floral to make you and whoever smells you drool from morning to night.. Good luck!
Maybe Hermes Kelly Caleche, or Frederic Malle's Une Fleur de Cassie? The slightly leathery aspects of those perfumes might supply the edge – and whilst I'm at it – Serge Lutens Daim Blond or Lancome's reissued Cuir de Lancome.
I second the Bulgari Blu Notte, ELdO Jasmin et Cigarette (I feel very “film noir” whenever I wear this), Kelly Caleche, SL Daim Blon (also very noir) and Lancome's Cuir de Lancome (see recent review as it is spot-on!). May I also suggest my latest obsession (yes, I know I'm late to the game) Molinard's Habanita. If you want more powder, go for the edt. Less powder, the edp. The edt can be found *very* inexpensive online. The edp is a bit more but still moderate. Bonne Chance!
Darkly elegant/leather scents come to mind for Eloise: Ava Luxe Madame X, Film Noir or Midnight Violet.
For a more summery, bright take, try Carthusia Ligea: powdery opoponax and citrus, sensual and refined like an Italian movie star. I personally like this one VERY much indeed.
Or perhaps the metallic powdery zing of iris will do it for you: Hiris, Vol de Nuit, Dior Homme, Bois d'Iris…
I like the idea of the Ormonde Jayne sampler, too – although there's no powder in any of them, as I recall.
Greetings, Eloise!
Your wonderful evocation of times gone by makes my think that vintage may be where you want to go. I second LeMaroc's suggestion of Habanita, and you might like other classics such as Fracas, Cabochard (elegant with smoke), or Le Dix. There were several great articles on dame perfumes this January, here on NST, on Perfume Posse, and Perfume Smellin' Things, and my impression is that you might like a lot of the perfumes listed.
Hmm – sensuous niche: Guerlain Plus que Jamais (if you can find a decant, as it is pricy) and I second Balenciaga Le Dix, which does require a higher tolerance for powder than PQJ. Bois des Iles is lovely too.
Sensuous designer: Bvlgari Jasmin Noir, Versace Crystal Noir, Ralph Lauren Notorious (at a pinch), Jo Malone Dark Amber and Ginger Lily (try Ebay as discontinued).
hmm, what about Incense rosé (Andy Tauer) , Orris noir (Ormonde Jayne, seems to be one of the big pointers on this thread) or one of the big ones (but aquired taste) Mitsouko?
Second the l'Heure Bleue – wore it yesterday, in fact. I have the edp – although edt is less expensive I think it is a bit different.
The EL is only expensive in extrait. The edp is only about $65 for an ounce. It's lovely, especially for warmer outdoor days.
Bulgari Blu Notte! Perfect. What a gorgeous and often overlooked scent. Second thought – something in the Comme des Garcons line, like CdG 2 or White.
How about Montale's Powder Flowers? It's got rose, jasmine and osmanthus flowers, drydown is Atlas cedar and tonka bean?
Or Parfums de Nicolai's Odalisque? It's got lily of the valley combined with orris notes for that powdery soft effect?? And it's about 88 dollars u.s. so it's in range…..
Another idea would be Sonoma Scent Studio's Wood Violet or Voile de Violette, absolutely lovely scents….
CdG 2 came to my mind too, perhaps because it's as hard to pin down as Eloise! I find it defies categorization… could be day or night, formal or casual, playful or mysterious, modern or timeless, floral or some strange otherworldly substance. Eloise seems like an interesting, complex person, and I think CdG 2 would be able to keep up with her many facets.
Frederick Malle Noir Espices came to mind as I read about you. I think it is classy and sexy without being overbearing.
As for prefering “old” things, don't rule out Shalimar. It took me a while to like it, but now I'm hooked. Vintage Shalimar smells great!
Felanila by Parfumerie Generale is a great vanilla without being foodie. Check out Robin's review-it is right on. Good luck!
Quite a selection of different niche fragrances came to mind reading the above selection criteria …
Comme des Garcons Stephen Jones or CdeG 2 – for playful, edgy and synthetic
Editions de Parfums Lipstick Rose or Ormonde Jayne Ta'if or Bond No. 5 Chinatown, because they seem to me to be big, cinematic fragrances
L'Artisan Timbuktu or Dinzg – both are like the Natural History Museum in a bottle…
Now if I could pin down that native American mystic… Be Never Busy To be Beautiful's Breath of God?
You are a tricky one to pin down! I agee that an old school scent may be what you need. You will never smell like all the other twenty somthings out there! Try Diorissimo or the already recommended Jicky or Le Heure Bleu. These are all fabulous and so very grown up.
I'm seconding the Lipstick Rose: it has the edgy, flirty, high fashion, 40s film noir and even synthetic feel that I think you might like. There is even a touch of powderiness, but it could never be called boring. Of course you have to like rose and there is no citrus in sight (smell) I'm afraid 🙂
Good old Chanel No. 5. Got it. Love it. Classy, classic and really, really pretty.
Yes, 1000 by Jean Patou.
Coco by Chanel.
I'd like to suggest a local niche perfumer, Claude-Andre Hebert. He has a wonderful collection of scents. I wear the Helene de Champlain, Buddha, Bali, Lumieres de Paris, Geisha and Queen of Africa scents from that line.
Here is the link: http://www.claudeandrehebert.com/