This week, we're helping Asya, who lives in California. In her own words:
I'm currently a college student that loves to have some sort of scent on me from morning to night. I can't say I've been properly-versed in the wonderful world of perfumery; my knowledge basically includes years and years of walking up and down department store and Sephora perfume aisles going, "This I like," "This is yuck.".
Asya says her style is classic and feminine, "more Jackie than Marilyn", with a bit of tousled beach style thrown in. Asya wants to find a more interesting scent than what she has now. Her perfect perfume would be noticeable but not too strong, young but classic, and easy to find, preferably in Sephora or a department store. And, she'd like it to cost under $100.
Asya loves black tea, vanilla, musk, amber, coconut (so long as it's subtle; Estee Lauder Azuree Soleil was too much), smoke and ginger, but she doesn't like gourmands or fruity scents, and she isn't usually drawn to florals. She says her dream perfume would be "a smoky black tea, vanilla, amber, smoke, coconut scent, and then I would throw in a lemon peel for good measure".
Asya has been wearing Burberry Brit for the past year and a half, but the fruity lime top note is starting to annoy her. She often wears The Body Shop's Vanilla perfume oil, but she'd like something more interesting. Other scents she has worn in the past include Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb (she loves the far dry down, but everything before that is too sweet and strong), Ralph Lauren Ralph Hot (too foody), Prada Eau de Parfum (too mature), Marc Jacobs Eau de Parfum (too boring) and Gucci Envy Me (too flowery and light).
Here are some of the fragrances Asya has tried:
Juicy Couture Viva La Juicy and Aquolina Pink Sugar: both too candied.
Prada Infusion d'Iris: much too light.
Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau de Parfum (black bottle): Asya considered buying it, but it lacks "that special kick".
Burberry The Beat: "smelled like artificial grapes".
Estee Lauder Pure White Linen Light Breeze: too conventionally clean.
Marc Jacobs Basil: Asya bought this for summertime, but it bored her within a week.
Chanel Coco Mademoiselle: as with Flowerbomb, Asya likes the dry down but the early stages are too sickly sweet.
What say you?
It sounds like the perfect thing for Asya (other than her dream black tea scent) would be a mainstream fragrance that smells just like the dry down of Flowerbomb. I'm hoping one of you can say just what that would be; my mind is blank.
My recommendations:
Because Asya loves black tea, vanilla and smoky notes, Bvlgari Black was one of the first things that came to mind. But it isn't young or feminine, and I'm thinking it will probably be too weird for Asya. It's a unisex fragrance but often kept at the men's counter. Bvlgari Omnia might also be worth trying (although it might be too foody); Omnia will be on the women's side at Sephora.
Jo Malone's Dark Amber & Ginger Lily also came to mind right away. It was a limited edition and it's already sold out, but I'm mentioning it anyway because it sold out so quickly that I wonder if Jo Malone won't bring it back? Asya, if you ever see it, you might give it a shot.
Note: image is Mailbox by cindy47452 at Flickr; some rights reserved.
Asya, Try Salvatore Ferragamo Tuscan Soul.
What about Versace Crystal Noire? Alluring floral with a subtle but unmistable coconut accord. Also too, LaCoste Pour Femme, soft, sophisticated and definitely more “Jackie than Marilyn” Good luck!!
My first “tea” recommendation would be AG Mandragore . Next would be AG Duel, if she wants to up the tea a notch. (You can get both in edt for less than $100).
I think that the modern 2002 version of Givenchy L'Interdit is definitely a soft, warm vanilla-amber. Soft, lightly sexy, and very classy. Any woman could wear this and feel classy without anything too weird or overpowering. Also less than $100.
Asya, AG = Annick Goutal.
Hi Aysa- I am kind of shooting blind here but I will suggest:
L'artisan has some tea scents- Tea for Two, Pour une Ete
Black Pheonix Alchemy Lab has a collection called Mad Tea Party and one of those scents is White Rabbit (black tea, white pepper, milk, honey, linen)- haven't smelled but sounds promising and young
Guerlain L'heure Bleue and Lanvin Arpege- not young/smoky black tea- but both beautiful and very Jackie IMO
Helenviolette, I thought of Tea for Two also, but I think she wants to stick to what she can find in dept. stores & sephora. I guess depending on where she is in CA, she might be able to find L'Artisan (?) but presumably not the BPAL.
Asya, you can also find L'Artisan at some of the new CO Bigelow stores if you've got one in a local mall.
Asya,
Another good tea scent is Carthusia Mediteraneo; it's a citrusy tea cologne with a nice floral drydown, lovely for summer (I'm about ready to put mine away for the year). It is a bit pricey, but sometimes you can find it at Nordstrom Rack on sale ($25.00 for a 50ml size some months ago). It has more presence than Bulgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert, but it is certainly not agressive; I find it a more feminine scent than the Bulgari. Good luck!
Ahhh, well this makes for a tough nut to crack! (and I specifically didn't recommend Serge Noir since it was too spendy…)
Also, depending on where she is in CA, she might be able to juant over to Scentbar to sniff out the L'Artisans…
Why not Creed, “Love in Black”, created with Jackie in mind, or Creed Fleurissimo, worn by Jackie but created for Princess Grace?
Sound like Serge Lutens 5 O'clock au gingembre might work.
It really does make it tough — if you don't like sweet, foody, fruity or floral, you're at a real disadvantage at the mainstream women's counters.
Agree, but she's trying to stick to things she can find in her local dept. store.
Don't they have some of the Comme de Garcons at Sephora? If so, Oaazazate would be good to try (along with the rest of the line 😉
Sorry….How about Origins Ginger essence intesified?
Hi Asya,
What about Pacifica line? Specifically Tibetan Mountain Temple? Is that too foody for you?
As for coconut, what about Sage Machado's Onyx? Isn't it very mainstream in California? Right price, right notes…
Good luck!
The one that sprang to mind since Asya likes black tea is Bulgari Pour Homme Soir. I wear this, and its fab in the fall, Darjeeling tea, woods, a little musk. it might feel a little weird to try the mens selection, but lots of them are quite unisex, particularly this one.
More classically feminine, how about Lolita Lempicka L (bitter orange, vanilla, smokey woods; I think Sephora has this) or Belle En Rykiel – Nordstrom carries it so its easy to sample, its not pricey & its even cheaper online; vanilla, incense & some fruit but not a gourmand.
If she lives near an Anthropologie, try the Crazy Libellule and the Poppies solid fragrances – very inexpensive & the Incense one sounds right up Asya's street, & there are plenty of other fun things to try there.
I actually thought about Susanne Lang's fragrances, specifially Red Ginger and Vanilla Coconut. Both of them have ginger, and vanilla coconut has a delicate coconut note in it.
When thinking of a black tea scent, it's hard not to think Tea for Two. I would love to suggest L'eau Rare Matale, but it's a bit too pricy…
yosh ginger ciao for a really grownup coconut (but cha-ching!), demeter earl grey for good measure as a black tea, L de lolita lempicka for a slightly smokey vanilla and orange, and givenchy organza indecence, just cuz its so good!
Since she likes the dry down in Flowerbomb, I re-read NST's review of Flowerbomb: “It starts with lots of sugar candy and a bit of citrus, and dries down to a sweet, slightly vanillic dessert of amber and patchouli. It is very smooth and creamy, with no hard edges. There are some flowers along the way, but they are not assertive. I should not think you would have to like flowers to like Flowerbomb.
For that matter, you won't necessarily need to like patchouli. It apparently uses a “purified” patchouli that is exclusive to IFF, the company that developed the fragrance, and in fact it smells very clean, and largely devoid of the earthy notes that tend to conjure up 1960s head-shops. I am not a patchouli fan, but one of the lessons that Flowerbomb taught me is that I like it even less without the earthy part.”
Is there anything that smells like the dry down more thoroughly all the way through?
Smoky black tea makes me think Dzongkha. No lemon peel or vanilla in there, but she might like it.
For “tousled beach style” moments maybe Aqua Motu? Maybe others can recommend other options in the Comptoir Sud Pacifique line — I'm not that familiar, but these might be right up Aysa's alley.
Something also makes me want to recommend that she sample Anné Pliska.
Hi, Asya here. I guess if limiting myself to department stores makes recommendations too difficult, perfume companies that offer inexpensive samples online are fine. So long as the suggestions don't go too far over my budget, I really don't want to limit recommendations because I do frequent boutique-y / gift shops that carry various perfume lines, so as long as I have a handy list of all the perfumes everyone recommended, I'll keep my eyes peeled.
Origin's Ginger EDT is actually the reason why I mentioned that I like ginger scents. I've tried this perfume on my skin, and while I liked it at first, the same noxious ginger hour after hour made me sick by the end of the day. So while I would enjoy a ginger note, I think I'd prefer it to be more subtle. Also, while I do tend to like scents such as Origin's ginger line, Marc Jacobs EDP and splashes, and the Body Shop's perfume oils, I can't seem to enjoy having the exact same scent on my skin in the evening as I put on in the morning. I'd like a little bit of transformation with a scent throughout the day.
Because I see a number of people are mentioning it, I think I suppressed Lolita Lempicka from my mind when I was asked what perfumes I've sampled but didn't like. While I thought I would like both of the scents available at department stores, both had a caramel-candied-fruit-and-wildfire scent that immediately turned me off.
I think you should go for the Bulgari Black. That's what my mind kept screaming as I read the description. I'm young and feminine enough, and I adore it–it's more snuggly than weird to my nose.
Hi, I'm a total noob perfumista, but for what it's worth, I thought right away of the non-foody vanilla of Kenzo Amour. The new Amour Parfum sounds like it might be even better, but I haven't smelled it yet, so I can't really recommend it.
I also think the Omnia is a good rec.
Shame about the LL, but do try the Belle En Rykiel, particularly since you liked the Flowerbomb dry down. Belle has a lovely dry vanilla/lavender/incense drydown & none of the caramel-fruitiness of LL.
Since I read above that you are willing to get samples, I suggest a sample of CB: I Hate Perfume Burning Leaves. The 2ml sample will last a while, too. Try layering with your Body Shop Vanilla. You should also give the Queen of all smoky vanillas a shot: Shalimar.
Agreed Joe805! Please let's keep politics off this blog, especially such a personal issue.
I wanted to say 5 o'clock au gingembre and Tea for Two, but fully understand the niche constraints. Then I thought of Creed Virgin Island Water for the coconut, but it is also niche really.
I smelled Bvlgari Eau Parfumee Extreme the other day and thought it v nice. It has green tea and smoked wood. Today I bought a little bottle of YSL Nu (the EDT) for buttons in TK Maxx and thought it a rather nice floral / incense hybrid, apparently with a bit of vanilla in the drydown! I personally love EL Intuition (vanilla, amber) but don't know many other fans out there!
I was thinking of the new Bylgari Jasmine Noir, nice drydown .
Also the L by Lolita is soooo nice and vanilla, and Casmir by chopard only avail on line very affordable vanilla and coconut… yummy!!!!!
Something easy-ish to find that's right down the middle — not too sweet, not too weird, not too expensive — is Gucci by Gucci, the 2007 release with the brown packaging. It's smooth, elegant, a little tailored, with a good little smolder to it. Good luck, Asya!
Try Tommy Girl! It is easy to find, easy to wear, very inexpensive, got 5 stars from LT&TS, AND has a beautiful tea accord!
Hi Asya! I think I have a lot in common with you when it comes to favorite notes 🙂
In keeping with sephora/mall availability theme –
Tocca Brigitte – I can't even quite describe this one, but it's got some nice understated vanilla as well as ginger and rhubarb. Definitely NOT foody, to my nose. I quite like it. Sephora.
Bvlgari Omnia – I think will be too sweet for you, it's a bit too sweet for me, but it's worth a try. Sephora, Macy's, etc.
Tom Ford White Patchouli – really gets at that understated, clean patchouli niche. Has some spice but is not overpowering at all. Nordie's, etc.
CK Secret Obsession – May be too sweet again, but certainly has its woodsy/spices. Macy's, etc.
Dior Hypnotic Poison – Vanilla & spice, dry rather than sweet. Sephora, etc.
Bvlgari Jasmin Noir – I very much second this one – has some very nice creamy musk & spice to it, but not overpowering. I found it to be very reminiscent of Estee Lauder Sensuous minus the supersweetness. My new fave. Sephora, etc.
Good luck & happy shopping! 🙂
I'm guessing those are an automatic feed from Google or some other such server — don't blame NST!
Joe, as someone else suggested, that is an open block for Google Adsense. I can block ads, but didn't know those were running — they're undoubtedly only running for people who have ISPs in California.
If you can tell me what website the ad links to, I can try to block the ads — but it takes so long for the blocks to take effect that it might not work. At any rate, I apologize — I don't want to see any political ads here either (and so far, never have).
OK, this recommendation is definitely niche, and I have no idea how much a full bottle costs, but I tried a sample of Memoire Liquide Black Tea recently, and I think it would be right up your alley. It's a black tea scent that's gently spicy, relatively light, and not too sweet (Tea for Two is way too sweet for me). Good luck, and have fun!
Asya, I think it's hard because sweet/foody/fruity/floral are all “in” right now in women's scents. You might be happier with something niche, but maybe not. If you're willing to try men's things, even mainstream men's tend to be drier & less fruity.
Good call on the Pacificas, and wish I remembered their Spanish Amber better — that might suit too. Asya, those are at the Anthropologie chain if you have one nearby, and they're very reasonably priced.
Asya, in case the L'Eau Rare Matale interests you, it's by Parfumerie Generale.
There are so many with that clean but darkish base — but can't think of one that doesn't start out w/ lots of sugar. Maybe Tom Ford White Patchouli, but that's kind of pricey and worried that if Prada was too mature, the TF might be also. Hope someone else will think of something!
~~”This I like,” “This is yuck.”~~
Seems like sound scientific perfumista technique to me, Asya! '~)
My picks are Bulgari Black, L'Artisan Tea for Two and Dzongkha. I haven't tried it myself yet (though I will now that I have thought os it), has anyone tried layering Tea for Two with L'A Premier Figuier, or am I crazy! The Premier Figuier would add the touch of coconut. And if that wasn't enough, you caould always add a touch of L'A L'Eau d'Ambre. :~)
I love my florals, so I am not much help here today. Good luck Asya!
Reposted for divinemama:
Yes, I am in California. Thank you for clarifying. Robin! Since you cannot do anything about, in the spirit of fairness (and also because this is how I am voting)… [sentence removed] (Feel free to delete if you must, Robin)
And my response: Divinemama — I did delete it although I guess people can figure it out. I have strong feelings on Prop 8 myself but don't want a debate here. As I've said, this is my one happy place with no politics, and again, I do apologize for the ad. I'm sort of surprised Google would even run such a thing with no advance warning to publishers 🙁
Hey, that Amour Le Parfum might well turn out to be just the thing. Good call, although I haven't smelled it yet either.
Gosh, thanks for the explanation — I'll email you the site address that the ads link to. It was just jarring because I've never seen anything here but fragrance ads and very general “nonpartisan” public-service type announcements.
Interesting that it's only appearing for California viewers. It has gotten so so so ugly out here — it's depressing and I will be happy (hopefully) once all this election nonsense is over with.
One of the drawbacks of the system is you don't have any idea what ads are appearing for other people. I've blocked it and it should take effect in a few hours — again, thanks for letting me know.
No problem, Robin! :~)
Yes, let's not let politics ruin our mutual love of perfume.
My local Sephora didn't have it yet as of today.
Yes, I'm very precise like that.
So far I've put Bulgari Black on the top of my “To Sniff” list, as I'm sure I've passed it many times but didn't bother to test anything in the men's fragrance section. Besides getting a massive list of fragrances to sample all weekend, I also learned that I need to look outside of the women's perfume aisles if I want a scent that's less gourmand and fruity and floral.
I've also ordered samples of Tea for Two and Dzongkha, as well as 3 other scents that seemed up my alley from L'Artisan (because you get 5 samples).
Thanks so much for the description! I must go find some this week, it sounds like I might just love it — I really like the regular Amour already.
Hi, how about EL bronze Goddess? I didn't find it too sweet but it definitely has some coconut in there!
Bulgari Black is a good one
it seems like its recommended every week. It's versatile!
CB's Burning Leaves has been mentioned, and they really excel at smoke/tea/musk frags, IMO. Cedarwood Tea, Fire From Heaven, CB Musk, Lavender Tea, Russian Caravan Tea, Tea Rose… You could layer them over your Body Shop vanilla or some cheap coconut scent and voila!
Also wanted to suggest Le Labo Vanilla, but it blows your budget (and mine) to hell. I think you'll like Bulgari Black and Dzongkha, too. :o)
I know the preference here is for mainstream scents…I'd just like to say that one niche line which uses quite a bit of tea is Parfum d'Empire. One that I think she might like is Osmanthus Interdite. OI is a gorgeous floral tea scent with hints of fruit and leather. In many ways it is similar to Bulgari Eau Parfumee au The Vert, but is more feminine, more refined, and has better longevity. The price isn't bad, really–$125 for 100 ml.
Another more expensive niche is Divine L'Homme Sage. It is a very interesting fougere with what I smell to be licorice, desert spices and amber. In some stages of this one, I am reminded of Bulgari Eau Parfumee au The Rouge, but L'Homme Sage is more refined, more interesting in some stages, and seems to have higher quality ingredients. It is quite expensive, though.
ok, it's completely niche, has no tea or coconut, and thus may be very inappropriate, but I have a decant from the Perfumed court and love it for the smoky vanilla bits… Le Labo Patchouli 24. It's unusual, but somehow young and sophisticated for the same time.
I'm wearing Kenzo Amour right now, as an Election Night comfort scent to help keep me calm. I might be crazy, but I get just a hint of Play-Doh with it as well, which I also get from the new Bulgari Jasmine Noir. Not sure if this is just a weird nasal tic?