I had originally meant to include White Aoud in yesterday's review of Black Aoud, but ran out of time. Today's post is thus something of a postscript, and if you aren't already familiar with Montale's oudh line, you might want to start by reading the Black Aoud review. White Aoud features notes of rose, saffron, oudh, cardamom, jasmine, patchouli, sandalwood, precious wood, amber, vetiver, vanilla and labdanum.
White Aoud starts out sweet. It probably only counts as very sweet in comparison to the bone-dry Black Aoud, but still, the sweetness masks most of the medicinal notes in the opening: White Aoud doesn't scream "agarwood!" to the same degree as Black Aoud. There is the same rose and wood, and a touch of Black Aoud's leather, but in White Aoud the result is creamier and paler, and muted by a light dusting of powder. It feels like a spicy floral underscored by dark woods rather than the other way around, and the vanilla in the dry down gives it something of a comfort scent feel. Between Black Aoud, White Aoud and Aoud Roses Petals, White Aoud is the one I would wear to tea — it has none of Black Aoud's raw edge, and while all the Aoud scents feel unisex, White Aoud is a bit more feminine.
Kevin noted in yesterday's comments that White Aoud is "VERY similar to Black Aoud, but a bit lighter. I can't imagine someone needing both of them", and I was rather suprised since I found them to be very nearly polar opposites. Still, as other commenters noted, these are all variations on a theme, and I would also note that these fragrances have extraordinary lasting power. Four or five hours in, after many of the other notes have burned off, they are mostly woods and their similarities are then more obvious than their differences. Here are a few brief notes on the other Montale oudhs I've tried:
If you want something even sweeter and more feminine than White Aoud, try Aoud Velvet, which throws in tropical flowers and an extra dollop of vanilla. It smells fruity and beachy, and is lighter on the woods than most of the others.
If Black Aoud just wasn't raw enough for you, try Oud Cuir d’Arabie, which adds birch tar and tobacco to the oudh-leather mix. It is richer, spicier and more animalic than anything else in the line.
I have mentioned Aoud Lime before. It is a spicy oudh with only a touch of lime (don't go looking for lots of sparkling citrus). There is rose as well, but this is one of the more masculine scents in the range, very dry and woody.
Oud Queen Rose and Aoud Damascus are both variations on the same theme as Aoud Roses Petals: heavier on the rose than the wood, not as dark or gothic as Black Aoud. Of the three, I liked Aoud Roses Petals the best, but it is all a matter of personal taste. Marina has a review of Oud Queen Rose today on Perfume Smellin' Things, and it sounds like she liked it better than I did.
There are quite a few more in the oudh line that I haven't tried. I'm not even sure how many, since the Montale website is out of date (and not particularly informative). If you have a favorite I've missed, do comment!
For buying information, see the listing for Montale under Perfume Houses.
Ah…I can't “defend” my comments of yesterday; I plead “A COLD!” (can't smell a thing today so can't do a side-by-side test — AAAAH-CHOO!) On me, Black/White aouds both go thru their early stages rather speedily and since they last on me 16 hours or more what I smell most, and longest, are the base notes, which are so similar. I just found an UNOPENED! Oud Cuir d'Arabie sample so will try that when the COLD-EZE kicks in. K
I haven't tried any of the Montale oudhs – the thought scares me! I think it's down to the much-vaunted oudh in 10 CC; I got such a distinct, gassy (read: fart) note from that, I concluded that was the oudh and have avoided it ever since. If I'm wrong, I may be missing out on a world of delights!
LOL — wasn't meaning to force you to defend your comment, really! But will be curious to hear what you think of Cuir d'Arabie. Black Aoud smells like finished leather to me, Cuir d'Arabie like raw animal hides. Great scent, but doubt I could wear it (and dh would not be happy if I did).
That note is pretty much what you'll find in the Montales, but stronger. It does grow on you though 🙂
It's Montale's lucky week 🙂
On the one hand, I found White and Black Ouds to be very similar, on the other, as you noted, they are nearly polar opposites…and I know what I said doesn't make sense, but…they are like, say, two sisters, who look obviously related but are not identical..or something like that 😀 White Oud was sweeter and softer on me, and I'd like to own both that and Black, but if I could only have one, I'd probably, after much hesitation, choose Black, because it has more oomph and an “attitude”. 🙂
And very weird that it is Montale week in JUNE, isn't it? But we're having very cool weather here so they fit.
Will go for the “two sisters” idea, that works! But I've no desire to own White Aoud at all. My preference, if somebody else was buying, might be a bottle of Aoud Roses Petals, decants of Black Aoud and Lime Aoud. Also happy to have my sample of Cuir d'Arabie, and it will last me the rest of my life 🙂
The above comments reminded me of two sisters whom I know, who look nothing alike, but when they speak, you see they have the same mannerisms, gestures, tones of voice. Feel free to steal the analogy if you like it.
Does White Aoud carry the same wallop of patchouli on the drydown that Black Aoud does? I really like Black Aoud, but after a few hours I figure I might as well be wearing Voleur de Roses.
Not to my nose, but then, I like the earthiness in Black Aoud and don't like it at all in Voleur de Roses, where it smells mustier and sticks to the back of my throat.
For that matter, Montale's Patchouli Leaves is one of the few really patch-heavy scents I like. But I'd guess almost all the Montale Oudhs have at least a hint of patch.
And will add that after 5 hours, the main difference between Black & White to my nose is that the White is a just a wee bit paler, more powdery, more vanillic. But they are awfully close by then, so perhaps if Black had too much patch, so does White?
Thanks 🙂
Once again, am amazed at skin chemistry. On me, Black Aoud and White Aoud are extremely different. My skin seems to amplify the creamy vanilla and amber notes in White Aoud – and, for me, that's not exactly a positive thing (I adore Cuir d'Arabie). However, after reading Kevin's comment yesterday, I put them both on DH and a visiting neighbor (kind, tolerant and appears to actually enjoy being a scent guinea pig) last night. Black Aoud and White Aoud are not identical on them, but I could really see the similarities – more so on DH than on our neighbor. DH's skin just ate up the vanilla and amber. I'm chartreuse w/ envy.
Just wanted to say that I called up Montale's boutique in Paris this morning and they have to be one of the nicest places I've ever ordered from. There's never a problem w/ my lack of decent French and they're always just incredibly kind and helpful.
My reactions are similar to Elle's: White and Black are very different on me, and white, if I remember correctly, seems too sweet. Another good one–which I believe she mentioned on M's blog–is Oud Flowers: yum!
Your impression of Cuir d'Arabie (raw animal hides) is interesting; for me, it always evokes a very luxurious–but very black–leather jacket. I find it very sexy on DH.
Wow, a tolerant dh AND a tolerant neighbor, you are lucky! I would like White better if my skin ate up all the sweet notes too. As it is, I'll take Black over White 🙂
Cuir d'Arabie is very sexy, but smelled way edgier to me, more raw. I like it though! Will have to try Oud Flowers, and still wanting to try Steam Oud, which Victoria reviewed on Bois de Jasmin ages ago.
I haven't tried this one of theirs. I haven't tried many other than owning Black Aoud and smelling I think it's called “Jamine Oudh” I think that's what it's called. It's very interesting but not really “WOW” to me. Agarwood is a difficult note to work with and needs to be handled with a light touch to really work well with other fragrance notes I've learned from experience. Too much and then it just ruins a scent, IMO. But that's just my experience with it. I do love it though. I wished I loved M7 YSL but it's just so not my kind of agarwood type of scent at all. I sort of makes my stomach queesy! Too bad, it had promise to me in the beginning till I dropped a decant in the master bedroom closet and it lingered on forever and ever. It just got me sick! LOL
I agree, Black Aoud has that smooth attitude that defines elegance. I simply adore this scent and for all it's strength, it still is extremely wearable for a migraine sufferer like me…thank goodness! White Aoud is much more feminine and reminds me so much of my mom that it's somewhat hard for me to pull it off. One combination of Montales that I reserve for 'special occasions' is Crystal Flowers layered with a small dab of Black Aoud. For me, it's magical.
That sounds lovely, will have to try some layering!
I love M7 but not sure I'd want a whole decant perfuming my closet either, LOL!
Robin, I am waiting for two Montale Aoud samples, the White and the Gold Aoud and I don't know what to expect..?
I think I never smelled a fragrance with aoud.
Maybe their other line will be more to my liking. I love Montale Roses Musk.
I have not smelled the Gold Aoud, let me know how it is!
Will let you know!
Robin to me White Aoud smells like insect repellent…phew!
Tried Golden Aoud and that must be for men. Better than White Aoud, too masculine for women, I don't smell anything unisex in it, not a bit of sweetness…just aoudy.
I think there are more Aouds at Montale than I even need to try — pretty happy with the few I already like! Will skip Golden Aoud I think, thanks.
This is, quite simply exquisite. Finding the Montale line has been mind boggling. The blending of their fragrances is unparalleled and White Aoud is one of my favorites. The aoud announces itself loudly at first and then steps back to anchor the other soft, sweet notes that cling for hours. These perfumes LAST. They are expensive, but worth every penny. I have been lucky to locate a retailer that has the best prices I have ever seen on these fragrances. Anyone interested should check out The Perfume Shoppe (www.theperfumeshop.com) for their large selection, terrific service. They also have a wonderful and very reasonable sample program, so no more buying before trying. I'm hooked!
They do have good prices, although ordering from Canada can sometimes be slow. The address is theperfumeshoppe.com though…theperfumeshop.com doesn't carry Montale 🙂
Yes, my mistake, it should be http://www.theperfumeshoppe.com, the lady who owns it is very helpful and extremely knowledgeable, her name is Naz and she welcomes all requests and questions. Happy Sniffing!
I have sampled several of the Montale line, mostly the aouds, and my favorite so far is the Aoud Queen Roses. In fact, it is the closest thing to a holy grail for me. I swoon everytime I wear it. My idea of perfection. I am a rose lover, own/blended many quality rose oils and sampled many lovely rose based scents. Many of which I love to wear also. The Aoud Queen Roses tops them all for me.
There are so many aoud/rose blends from Montale that I can't keep them straight — I know the Aoud Roses Petals is the one I liked best, but at the moment, can't even remember which was the Queen Roses.
I think that Aoud Queen Roses is also my favorite so far. Second Montale Rose that I would consider purchasing is Attar. But Queen Roses is mind boggling. As I have stated earlier I have several of their offerings and rotate frequently, but yesterday I put on a jacket with Queen Roses on it and drove my poor husband nearly crazy with commenting on how amazing I smelled!!! I definitely need to get over myself!!!! Anyway, I suggest revisiting this beauty if you can't remember it. I think it is one of their best and one that I will probably repurchase forever. Conversely I found Rose Petals and Damascus rather nonedescript for Montales, and while pleasant, I will save my pennies for Queen Roses or Attar. I think what has wowed me most about Montales is that they smell gorgeous first spritz, there's no waiting for a lovely but shortlived drydown. They really deliver. Also, I usually only wear one fragrance at a time and can't abide any other until I am sick of it. But with Montale's I find myself reaching for any one of them depending upon my mood. They never repulse me. Love your blog. It's good to know I have “fellow addicts”.
Well, the one thing I'm certain of is that I liked Roses Petals the best — just can't remember why! Pretty sure Damascus was not even in the running.
Thanks for the kind words about the blog 🙂