I'm still happily working my way through a handful of sample vials from the independent perfumery 4160Tuesdays, and my latest crush from this house is Tart's Knicker Drawer, a "floriental amber" with top notes of bergamot, orange, grapefruit and pink peppercorn; heart notes of raspberry, rose, jasmine, sandalwood, cedarwood, violet, tuberose and guiacwood; and basenotes of amber, musk, vanilla, benzoin and tobacco.
"Tart's knicker drawer" is the phrase that 4160Tuesdays founder and perfumer Sarah McCartney's grandmother used to describe women who wore too much perfume (and whose behavior was therefore questionable); McCartney created this fragrance after she'd spent a long day in her lab and was scented with the traces of six different perfumes-in-progress. When she tweeted, “I'm about to get in the E3 bus smelling like a tart's boudoir,” she got so many enthusiastic responses ("Can I buy some?!") that she decided to concoct a proper perfume inspired by the experience.
Fortunately, Tart's Knicker Drawer doesn't actually smell like a haphazard mélange of six perfumes, yet it does harken back to an era when an excess of perfume (or bold makeup, or short skirts) connoted loose morals. It feels "retro," and it's not brash but it's not shy, either. Despite all that variety in the list of notes, Tart's Knicker Drawer is primarily a smooth blend of powdery violet over silky resins. I also notice hints of something iris-like that works nicely with the cedar, and a slightly sharp musk that evokes the animalic basenotes of many vintage fragrances. (Am I also smelling some ambergris, perhaps?) I've read some online reviews complaining about Tart's longevity, but on my skin it has excellent staying power. During one wearing, it even outlasted a quick shower.
As you may already guess, I'd recommend Tart's Knicker Drawer to anyone who loves contemporary face powder/lipstick accord perfumes like Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose, Chanel Misia, or even Love, Chloé and is ready to try something just a little quirkier and more vintage-feeling. Conversely, if you like the idea of violet-y vintage florals like Balenciaga Le Dix but you don't feel you can quite carry them off, this lighter-hearted variation on that theme may be what you're looking for. I'll be finishing my sample and possibly plotting a purchase of a small bottle of Tart's Knicker Drawer, and in the meantime, I'm really going to hope that someone asks me what I'm wearing, on the bus or anywhere else. No judgements, please.
4160Tuesdays Tart's Knicker Drawer is available as 50 ml ($90) and 100 ml ($130) Eau de Parfum. For purchasing information, see the listing for 4160Tuesdays under Perfume Houses.
Note: top image is Model with Flapper Pillow and Pointy Shoes [cropped] via Wikimedia Commons.
Yes indeed, I do feel I cannot quite pull off a wearing of Le Dix. I feel like I’m in a vintage clothing piece which, although lovely, just doesn’t quite work. So I will look out for TKD. Great review, thanks!
I feel that way about many vintage fragrances…they wear *me*, instead of the other way around. But I do love a good vintage-*inspired* fragrance!
I love Le Dix and wore it many years ago…but the ambergris note of this one scares me a bit…..
If it is indeed ambergris, it’s definitely in the background, behind the violet and powder and resins and wood! So don’t let that scare you too much.
Jessica, this sounds like something I would love as I enjoy all the scents you mentioned.
I’ll have to seek this one out so thanks for the nose up!
My beautiful stepdaughter, Gillian fell for two perfumes I introduced her to that are now, unfortunately discontinued- Love,Chloe Eau Intense and SSS Lieu de Reves.
She loves rose/violet combos as well.
I feel so bad that she wants more of these but it is getting harder to find. ( I’m going to ask Laurie if she could perhaps make her some more Ld’R- she even chose it as her wedding scent last year. Aw )
But maybe this is one that could fill the void somehow? lol As a perfumista I know how hard that is to do though. *Sigh.*
Have a great weekend!
Hi, Forestmama! Glad to know we’re “scent twins.”
I love Lieu de Reves, too — I have a bit left, and I’ll miss it when it’s gone. I’ve never smelled anything similar — Laurie’s style is so individual. Maybe we can ask her to make a small batch, if the ingredients are still available to her?
Well drat. Sounds like I should’a ordered a sample of this with my recent purchase from IndieScents!
Oh no! Well, next time around, right?
“You smell fabulous! What’s that perfume you’re wearing?”
Exactly!! Pleeeease ask me, someone! anyone!
I realized not so long ago, that the number of bottles from 4160Tuesdays that I own is second only to my Guerlain collection! I love Sarah’s perfumes that much.
I highly recommend trying the extrait strength that’s available only on the website, they are stunning, and come in 30 ml. bottles which apparently CAN be shipped to the states. But email Sarah first to set that up. So glad you wrote these up!
I was eyeing that extrait on the website and wondering about it! Maybe I’ll purchase one for the New Year…thanks!
Her Centrepiece Extrait is in my all time top 10. It’s like being dipped in golden honey. Gorgeous!
I SO love the names of the 4160 Tuesdays line that I have been pulled to test a handful. I have, however, been disappointed in most of them, with the exception of Lady Rose Lion (Monkey Unicorn). I was disappointed that Tart’s Knicker Drawer – such a terrific name!! – was so ladylike and un-tarty. It’s very verrrry powdery on me, and while I thought it was nice, I think I was so disappointed at the disconnect between name and smell that I gave it to a friend.
I know what you mean — Lion Cupboard isn’t something I’d wear, but I adore its story. And yes, Tart’s Knicker Drawer does not actually smell tart-y — which was a plus, for me.