Indie natural line Aftelier has launched Cuir de Gardenia, a new fragrance:
Cuir de Gardenia retains the unique beauty of the tiare flower, not allowing it to morph into the hundreds of petals of a floral bouquet. One trembles in awe, metaphorically, when blending with the incomparably sumptuous tiare (gardenia) absolute. I had been incredibly fortunate to find an artisanal grower and distiller of the ultra-rare, costly, precious gardenia. In Cuir de Gardenia, I wanted to retain the pure loveliness of the creamy sweet and singular gardenia fragrance, and knew that the rounded warmth of an oil-based perfume (solid and extrait) would be the perfect format.
There was no doubt that the sexy, rich aroma of castoreum was the perfect counterpoint for the gardenia; a yang for its yin. The ideal leather aroma is a marriage between some antique castoreum absolute I had gotten from an old perfumer’s estate with a tincture that I made from sustainably sourced castor pods. These two scents are quite distinct -- the antique aroma is more leather & intense, while the freshly made is sweet, powdery & musky. Cuir de Gardenia is unusual in that it has no top notes; I created it in such a way that the gardenia appears immediately, unimpeded from the opening of the perfume onward, merging seamlessly with the leather. The natural isolates ethyl phenyl acetate (reminiscent of a bunch of sweet peas) and the candy-like maltol contribute sweet and floral notes to the animalic base of the perfume.
Additional notes include jasmine grandiflorum.
Aftelier Cuir de Gardenia is available in 1/4 oz solid perfume ($240, sterling refillable compact) and as a limited edition 2 ml perfume mini ($55).
(via press release)
Update: see a review of Aftelier Cuir de Gardenia.
This sounds intriguing. Tried Aftelier’s solid jasmine, which was nice but barely detectable. Think I prefer the edps and extraits, though I’ve only purchased samples so far.
I usually like liquid better too, but her solid compacts are gorgeous.
This sounds interesting. I don’t know if I’ve ever smelled natural tiare absolute before. Might have to see if she’s offering samples.
There are samples of the liquid…
Oops…see below, there are samples of the solid too!
Thank you very much for posting this Robin! Yes, I do have samples available for both the solid and the extrait liquid…
Mandy