Today we're helping Ravyn, a former 80s goth chick who still loves the scents of her glory days. Her all-time favorite is Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs, and she says she spent the 80s and 90s in a cloud of Halston, Calvin Klein Obsession, Avon Mesmerize & Rare Ruby, Coty Wild Musk, Jean Paul Gaultier Classique, Boucheron and Guerlain Samsara.
Now she wants to find an updated signature fragrance, preferably something long-lasting that can go from day into night with just a refresher spritz. Her perfect perfume will be complex, elegant and mysterious, with an earthy element. She'd rather not spend more than $150, and while she isn't opposed to a classic, she'd really like something she can find without a treasure hunt.
Ravyn is in her early 50s, and describes her look as...
Black eyeliner and red lipstick but now sans the combat boots and black fingernails...think more of the classic "Interview with the Vampire" rather than "Twilight".
Ravyn loves soft florientals, spicy but not too spicy, woody and complex. Favorite notes include coriander, incense, myrrh, sandalwood, patchouli (in small doses), jasmine, mimosa, orange blossom, gardenia, dirty musk and amber. She doesn't mind vanilla, tonka bean or chocolate so long as they don't dominate. She adores chypres, woody/balmy ouds and even some straight up "springtime" florals (she loved Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds Brilliant, but not the original White Diamonds.) She also currently wears Givenchy Pi, Lagerfeld Sun Moon Stars, and at the moment her thoughts are turning toward springtime (Coty Muguet Du Bois, Emeraude and Yardley Olde English Lavender). She says she would die for one more bottle of the circa 1975 original green Clairol's Herbal Essence Shampoo.
She doesn't love overly fruity scents, but she's not opposed to fruity citrus (she buys a huge bottle of Jean Nate splash every Christmas).
What say you?
Note: top image is pink post [cropped] by jenny downing at flickr; some rights reserved.
I wrote along long reply & it’s gon
anyway I suggest lalique encre noir pour elle, sensous nude & the new dior hypnotic poison. Good luck
“Her perfect perfume will be complex, elegant and mysterious, with an earthy element.” This made me think of Chanel 31 Rue Cambon, which at last is available in a smaller size. It’s a modern chypre, beautiful and intriguing, but really very hard to classify. I could very much imagine it as a signature scent. A completely different concept would be what I feel is an amazing spring floral Annick Goutal Heure Exquise, a stunning galbanum, rose, and iris scent, that might have some echoes to the shampoo she remembers (I remember it, too).
For a former goth looking for statement elegance I would second 31 Rue Cambon.
I think you should check out the Donna Karans that come in the sleek black bottles at places like Bergdorf’s/Neiman Marcus/Nordstrom. DK Signature and Chaos are both in your price range, long-lasting, elegant, complex, and good for day to night wear.
For a spring floral/chypre, maybe Estee Lauder Private Collection, YSL Y, or Parfums di Nicolai Weekend a Deauville?
The new DKs did not spring to mind immediately but it is a brilliant suggestion that I second. I have decants of Iris, Labdanum and Wenge and enjoy layering them. I’m a bit of a reformed Goth myself. Now, instead of wardrobe of black with smatterings of reds, purples and greens, my wardrobe is now mostly greys and beiges. lol
Love the Wenge and Labdanum!
Ha ha, great! Black Cashmere is also really good (and perfect for a reformed goth!) but I think harder to find. And I’m a huge fan of the discontinued DK Gold.
I have a feeling Ravyn should try Juliette Has a Gun “Lady Vengeance”. This fragrance is not similar to other perfumes she lists here, but to me, LV somehow matches Ravyn’s “reformed goth” style.;)
You can still get Herbal Essence in the Yankee catalog/online. it is sort of expensive for shampoo but if you’re dying for it LOL
They have Lemon Up too, another 70’s shampoo classic.
Sorry, I meant the Vermont Country Store catalog/online.
A couple of citrus-y chypres: Delrae Debut and Nicolai Vie en Chateau and for an oriental I would suggest either Nicolai Sacrebleu or maybe SL Daim Blond. You should also sample Andy Tauer’s line–they are pretty mysterious and have incredible lasting power.
I second Sacrebleu!
Black Cashmere! Or Chaos. Or Bulgari Black.
Also, Liz Zorn Underworld or Hove Creole Days.
And Kerosene Whips & Roses – not at all as aggressive as it sounds but melancholically mysterious.
Perfumes Ravyn should try:
Thierry Mugler Alien
Estee Lauder Sensuous Noir
Elie Saab Le Parfum
Narciso Rodriguez For Her EDP
Bvlgari Jasmin Noir
Chanel Coco
Hanae Mori Magical Moon
Hello Ravyn,
Dior Diorella – bohemian chic. It’s dirty but in the best way possible – hence bohemian chic.
Also, Guerlain Sous le Vent for an herbal fix.
You have gotten great suggestions thus far. Have a great time sampling and I hope you find what you are looking for.
Dawn
For the spicy and slightly woody, I thought of Lubin Idole – I’ve only tried the EdT and think it might be great as the EdP might be too heavy. Also think EL Sensuous or Sensuous Noir would be great to try (and very inexpensive!).
I like Balenciaga Paris for a pretty floral
Daphne by Comme des Garcons
Boudoir
John Galliano Parfum No 1.
Former goth girl? Now that’s right up my alley! For resin-y/patch-inspired scents, I love L’ Artisan’s Voleur de Rose, Chanel’s Coromandel and Dyptique’s Eau Trois.
For a dirty Musk, Kiehl’s original Musk oil or MKK are fabulous.
My chypre recs are Sonoma Scent Studio’s Jour Ensoleille is a beautiful golden chypre, with Tuberose and Orange blossom at the heart, with a mossy base. My other is Le Labo’s Rose 31 with rose, cumin, clove, nutmeg, olibanum, cedar, amber, gaiac wood, oud, cistus, vetiver and animalic notes
To fill her green fix, I like MMM Untitled and Le Labo’s Bergamotte 22.
The reformed Goth in you must at least sample Immortal Mine and also Frankincense, Myrrh Rose Maroc. Both are oils and a bit above the price range, but really gorgeous.
I’d also suggest the original Agent Provocateur and Fifi Chachnil for the coriander and amber combos. (Kind of the antithesis of goth, but nice frags!)
The earlier Vivienne Westwoods would be great, and I am also going to recommend Nuit de Noel as a long shot, but only in extrait. The edt is awdul, IMHO.
I used to love the old Herbal Essence shampoo! For a while, it also came in a body lotion and even – I think – in a cologne. Sigh.
But moving on – I’d suggest Bulgari Jasmin Noir or Jasmin Noir L’Essence – a touch of floral, with the foundation of an oriental. The drydown of both is gorgeous and the sillage is about perfect. Either lasts well too.
You might want to try Cadjmere by Parfumerie General, a spicy, woody oriental that would make a good signature scent and go easily from day to night. It also fits nicely within your budget. Good luck, and enjoy the process!
Comme des Garcons Incense Series Avignon is, to me, the perfect goth frankincense. Ouarzazate, from the same series, is warmer, spicier and woodier (cedar, specifically) than Avignon, but still very incensey – they’re both gorgeous, and I wear them both regularly.
Anyone who loves a good spring floral needs to try Jour d’Hermes ASAP. I wouldn’t say I’m generally the spring floral type, and I still think it’s absolutely gorgeous. It’s probably the next full bottle I buy.
Also, this: “soft florientals, spicy but not too spicy, woody and complex” makes me think of Chanel Coco – it’s well worth a try.
When you say day into night I immediately think of Coco Mademoiselle, which in spite of the name is easily carried by the older woman. Also Balenciaga Paris transitions well from day to night.
Yes Balenciaga Paris! I like that idea. A little spicy, a little earthy, softly floral but a little mysterious–def elegant with some complexity… It’s not goth but it could be goth-compatible, I would say? That could work nicely…
Musc Ravangeur Frederick Malle,
Bottega Veneta,
Prada Infusion Iris Amber Absolue
I second Musk Ravageur!
Alien by Thierry Muglet also came to my mind. The amber, wood and jasmine night appell to you, Ravyn?
its called Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue
wow–lots to try! thanks! I will get started. I am intrigued by the new Marni after Robin’s review on 1/29, but it may be too spicy. Gotta make my way into the city to Saks to take a sniff. I will make a list, but this might need a weekend vacation with all your suggestions!
Hi Ravyn,
I got the purse sized Marni this weekend.
On my skin and to my nose, it smelled like a combo of Penhaligons Elixir and 10 Corso Como. It’s a bit spicy, woody, some incense with a hint of citrus.
Curious to hear what you will get from it.
Dawn
Too funny that you say that–initially I didn’t have much to offer as regrettably I haven’t sniffed a lot of your favorites (will have to work on that!), but I just tried the Marni this afternoon and circled back to toss its name in the ring. Day into night; complex, elegant and mysterious, with an earthy element; incense, woods, spicy but not too spicy…it’s almost everything you mention! As for the spice specifically, it def has some spice, but I find it very balanced: the rose is also very present, and the incense, and the woods, so I think there’s a good chance that the spice won’t overwhelm.
Even the hope to need just a minor touch-up to go into evening is probably satisfied with Marni–I’ve had it on for nearly eight hours now, and it’s never overwhelmed me (and I’m kind of a lightweight on that front), but it’s def still going. It’s pretty great!
I do like it but I find it somewhat restrained
Agree! I like it for being not too strong but def believe some might prefer it stronger.
Heeley Cardinal is a nice incense which has a bit of brightness to it. For gardenia you might like Hothouse Flower by Ineke. It’s got a lot of green in it. You might also like Pomegranate Noir by Jo Malone. It’s not as fruity as the name implies.
So true about the not-too-fruity-ness of Pom Noir!
Il Profumo Patchouli Osmo-absolu base, topped with Histoire de Parfum 1969. :)) Perhaps??
If you are longing for the scent of the old Clairol Herbal Essences shampoo, you should try Huitieme Art Aube Pashmina!!
Has anyone said Ormonde Jayne Woman yet? The discovery set is worth the price and very fun!
Second PdN Vie de Chateau!! Have you ever tried Parfumerie Generale Bois Blond?
Totally–both for Woman and for some of the soft springtime florals! Osmanthus comes to mind especially, but numerous good options!
It must be your lucky day. I just received an email from proctor and gamble with a link to this at the bottom:
http://us.herbalessences.com/en-US/hair-products/smoothandshine
Also, I am submitting another vote for Chanel Coco. It is perfect this time of year. Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir and Nutmeg & Ginger are also nice, though not terribly complex. They may be easier to wear in the summer though.
For a more springtime floral, I recently discovered Diptyque’s Olene and think it’s gorgeous. Good luck!
Another one worth trying from Diptyque is Tam Dao
Yeah, Tam Dao, good idea!
Mm Pom Noir, I do like that. Def spicy but not too spicy, I think, and day/night compatible.
I don’t know how I overlooked this before, but Atelier Rose Anonyme seems perfect for you. It’s spicy and more oriental than floral.
they lie!
not even close. every formula they make is various degrees of apple-combo.
Here’s another vote for Chanel Coromandel. One of the Poisons could work, that’s what I wore when I was a little goth boy in the 90s. I’d also try MDCI Chypre Palatin, though it’s $$$, or even Balenciaga L’Essence
Also, Coco is a good choice as well. I like the eau de parfum concentration.
gothic-y: réglisse noire (1000 flowers). Otherwise I think you could try out some ouds and/or rose-patchouli combos (e.g. Lumière noire). I agree with Ormonde Jayne woman (always worth a test), all might be more cold-weather suggestions. Gothic and summery: that’s an interesting question, I have to think about it.
As many others, I thought about Black casmere , but I would Also suggest Carons Parfum sacre, for myrrh , spices and Woods with a hint of flowers, great pricing too. But the part about lasting through the day isnt spot on, I guess.. Youll need to really twice with the current formula at least
I think you might enjoy Voleur de Roses. I like it because it’s earthy and seductive.
I second Voleur de Roses and add Wazamba and Paestum Rose.
Comme des Garçons 2 Woman could be perfect for you, Ravyn.
Maybe coming out of left field: ELdO’s Nombril Immense — it’s a serene yet somewhat mysterious patchouli.
I liked Bottega Veneta Eau Legere–but it ended on a weak note. I kept wanting to reapply to get that rush of top notes refreshed.