For anyone joining us midstream, the Monday Mail is our weekly feature in which we help a reader to find a new fragrance. Chantelle, who is studying Semiotics and Communication Theory at a Canadian university, is our victim of the week. Here are a few more details about Chantelle:
She describes herself as "confident, reflective, and a Type B+ personality".
Her interests include music, literature, philosophy and travel.
Fashion is important to Chantelle, and she is "very picky about the cut and shape" of her clothing. She likes jewel-toned shirts and dark skinny jeans, and describes her style as "well-arranged but still lots of fun".
Chantelle is not a stranger to perfume. She started wearing Elizabeth Arden Green Tea in middle school, and currently owns between 20 and 30 bottles. Here is what we know about her current scent preferences:
Her rotation includes Chanel Coco Mademoiselle, Guerlain L'Heure Bleue, Guerlain Mitsouko, L'Artisan Mure et Musc Extreme, Penhaligons Lily & Spice, Prada Infusion d'Iris, Prada Amber pour Homme, Yves Saint Laurent Nu.
She does not like fragrances that are "too sweet or generic (fruity florals, gourmands)" or "velvety/heady (most white florals)", but other than that, she is not sure exactly what she does like.
She does not like Thierry Mugler Angel, Valentino Rock & Rose, Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile, or any of the celebrity fragrances other than Sarah Jessica Parker's.
Close-but-no-cigar fragrances: Thierry Mugler Miroir des Secrets ("a little too sweet"), Bond No. 9 Chinatown ("a bit too heady"), Frederic Malle L'Eau d'Hiver ("too light and no staying power"), and Hermes Kelly Caleche ("too pale").
Notes she is drawn to include iris, tuberose, lily of the valley, amber, saffron, and sandalwood.
She thinks she likes fragrances with a "cold vibe".
Chantelle is looking for a versatile fragrance that could be used day or night. She'd like something with personality, but doesn't want anything overpowering, and while she wants "interesting", she also wants to smell nice. She has access to both department store and niche scents, but has already tried many department store fragrances. She is willing to spend, but she's on a student budget — so Frederic Malle is a possibility, JAR is not.
What say you? My recommendations are all on the "cold iris" front, so I'm hoping the rest of you will cover the other bases:
I should have asked Chantelle if she had tried Hermès Hiris, one of my favorites. If she hasn't, she should, and if she's willing to buy samples online, she might also try Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, the coldest of the cold when it comes to iris. If she likes that one, she can join me in signing a petition to Serge Lutens begging for it to be the next limited edition export (at the moment, it cannot be purchased in North America). She might also like Apothia L Eau de Parfum (more iris, but a little less cold), and that one, happily, is not only available in North America, but it can also be purchased in a cute little 15 ml travel bottle for $30 (samples are available for $5).
Note: image old letterbox via gin_able at flickr, some rights reserved.
the new Hermes Jardin Apres la .Mousson. I just tried this over the weekend and they weren't kidding about that cold spice. She might like Voluspa Linden Blond Tabac as the tuberose isn't overwhelming or heady and is well-tempered by the green note in it.
Hmm… I'm going to go out on a limb, rounding out the iris suggestions, and recommend Dior Homme. I'll also suggest a test of L'Artisan's Safran Troublant, which is the only saffron fragrance I know; I quite like it, although it might come off a little too “warm” for Chantelle. If she likes tuberose, she must try Fracas if she hasn't already.
Saffron, allthough it's discontinued: Donna Karan Black Cashmere
Although it's not on the list, Vetiver has a very cool, sophisticated and slightly unusual (especially for a woman) vibe to me, therefore: Sel de Vetiver (The different Company) or Encre Noir (Lalique)
She perhaps might want to try one of the less churchy, more “clean” incence scents: Passage d'Enfer (Artisan Parfumeur), Ouarzazate (CdG)
Second the Iris Silver Mist.
Oh, I study semiotics in Germany
but anyway, I have quite the same taste, so I agree in “jardin mousson” – love it! best on men's skin, and I even more agree in Safrant Troublant, but also the normal Chasse aux Papillons, which is light and semi-bitter (and no white floral for me at all).
She sould also go for ETRO musk or other ETRO scents.
…btw: I always wonder what it is all about this Musc et Mure: it's the best sold perfume by L'Artisan Parfumeur, which is my favourite brand, but I just do not! think it is the best.
3rd the Iris Silver Mist, she could also try TDC Bois D'Iris, Le Labo Iris PG Iris Taizo and for other floral/tuberose Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia, By Killian Beyond Love, L'Artisan La Chasse Aux Papillons, Fracas, SL Tuberose Criminelle, FM Carnal Flower, Le Labo Tuberose.
I doubt ISM will be part of the Export range any time soon: it is an acquired taste (which I have yet to acquire unfortunately) and it's worn by certain French celebrities. They wouldn't take it very kindly if any Tom, Dick or Harry (or rather their female equivalents) was wearing their favourite exclusive fragrance.
I'm afraid I have to admit I was rather put out when Fleurs d'Oranger became available everywhere after I had to wait two years before being able to go and get a bottle of it in Paris.
What is a jewel-toned shirt?
My tips: Diorella or Dioressence
oh, I forgot FM Iris Poudre, this one blends iris, lily of the valley, amber & sandalwood.
Also SL Clair de Musc might be worth a shot.
Jewel-toned usually means a rich color saturation in a darker shade of a color. It's usually also in a satin-y fabric, but that's not an always.
Well, as per the issue at hand, I'm still looking at perfumes; my “database” isn't nearly big enough to start recommending much. I loved the cold violets in Daisy by Marc Jacobs but then it warmed into a sweet, woody base, which is one of the reasons I stopped wearing it. I'll be stalking this thread to scope out the recommendations. ;D
I'll suggest Chanel No. 18 in the Les Exclusifs lineup. It defnintely falls in the cool category and I also find it to be offbeat.
In keeping with the L'Artisan Safran Troublant recs, another one in that category is Sienna Musk by Sonoma Scent Studio.
That's all I have.
Have fun sampling from all the great recs you've recv'd.
Dawn
Chantelle, the Voluspa you might have to buy online — check Perfume Houses V (on bottom menu) for a list of stores.
Chanel Bois d'Iles (sandalwood and No. 18 and 19 (iris), Le Labo Iris, Dior Diorissimo (lily of the valley), Bond No. 9 Fire Island (tuberose), Etat Libre d’Orange Jasmin et Cigarette (just because it smell great and I doubt anyone else will be wearing it), and Lutens Arabie (amber–which may be too sweet).
MeM is not my favorite either, but many people love it!
Chantelle, CdG = Comme des Garcons. They also make a unisex saffron scent, 8 88.
Hey, one can dream, right
Chantelle, that's sonomascentstudio.com (online only)
Hi!
From a student's point of view – money is an issue .. – I second the recommendation of dior homme, especially if you can get it at a discount – if you are in montreal, I could recommend a few good discounters. (As far as iris goes, I prefer ISM, but the price tag and the availability in north america makes DH a killer alternative.)
For an odd, but still eminently wearable, Iris, l'artisan dzongkha is worth a try – while you're at it, also try timbuktu! Both feel beautifully cold to me. I haven't worn either over an extended period , but I also guess they could both be very addictive.
Finally, my two favorite sandalwood fragrances. First, Parfums de Nicolai Maharanih: dominated by a completely intoxicating spices and orange accord, made airy and swirling by a subtle and discreet rose note, over lethal amber and sandalwood base. A stunner.. If you're willing to spend a little more money, FM's stunning noir épices is worth a try: starts out with a rush of somewhat cold spices, twisted by a stunning orange note (which to me – I can't quite explain why – gives a somewhat alcoholic feel to the opening), against a most beautiful sandalwood/patchouli background. As it evolves on skin, the spices become progressively quieter, and the woody background louder. To me, the whole strikes a wonderfully perplexing balance between cold/sharp and warm/smooth which I find very appealing. I like it on my male skin, but I'm convinced it would be at least as stunning on a woman.
best!
borhane
I think Saffron Troublant and Dior Homme are terrific suggestions. I would add these: Bond #9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory, Tom Ford Japan Noir, Shiseido Koto (only on ebay AFAIK), Paestum Rose, and CdG Zagorsk. Cheers, Sara
Third the apres Mousson. also:
Laila by Geir Ness – been a while since I smelled this but I remember it being very cold- looked at notes (norweigian lily and snowflower- brrrr)
L'artisan Voleur de Roses – smells like a delicious cool/dry champagne
Guerlain Vetiver
If you try out anything from les exculsifs, be sure not to miss cuir the russie! Leather given wings by what feels to me like an understated, indistinct but healthy dose of flowers…
Some suggestions are: Chanel No. 19 (for a cool iris), Diorissimo (for lily of the valley), Comme de Garcons 8 88 (for saffron) and Ormonde Jayne Champaca (for luck!…No not really, for the green tea note, in case you want something a bit more grown up than the Elizabth Arden Green Tea).
Good luck with it all, as you seem to have a huge range of different genres to try! Farah
My suggestions…Ormonde woman, and also I vote for Iris silver mist.
Chantelle, Paestum Rose is by Eau d'Italie.
Chantellle, Ormonde Woman is also by Ormonde Jayne, out of London http://www.ormondejayne.com
Has anyone mentioned Apres l'Ondee or Samsara? (I'm in a hurry and just skimmed the comments.) The former is cold and has iris, the latter speaks sandalwood to me, and is frankly, warm….
Un Jardin Apres La Mousson… the cold rain, exotic ginger and vetiver closed in a beautifue Hermes bottle. I have fallen in love with it like OMG! If I were Chantelle I'd definitely give it a try, oh yeah. She might NOT fall in love with it though… it is cold and spicy, vegetal and so exotic at the same time, but Chantelle seems more like… Hiris to me. Reading about her tastes I think she DOES need some floral notes in her perfume, something to keep it a little more elegant? feminine? Yeah, I am with everyone who thinks Hiris or any Iris cold scent is good for her. Hiris even has a jewel-toned bottle! the DEEP Iris blue color will definitely catch her attention! Best regards!
* too bad she doesn't like my iris nobile, I love that fragrance, I think it has a lot of colder notes, but at the same time it might feature too much of the orange blossom accord – that would make it warmer.
I adore Iris Nobile too, but was wondering if it was too sharp, maybe, for Chantelle? I don't know. And also not sure if she tried the EdT or EdP, which as you know are quite different.
Chantelle, both of those are Guerlain.
Hi everybody,
This is Chantelle
I just wanted to say a general thanks for all the amazing recommendations here and I'm feeling very excited about them all. I'll try to reply to the messages individually, but I wanted to just express my gratitude here, first.
Thanks for the rec! I've seen the new Hermes around but have yet to really try it (“cold spice” sounds v. intriguing)
I'll try to somehow grab a sample of the Volupsa somehow, too.
I didn't think I'd like MeM as much as I do, but there's something rather sweet (and cold) about it that comforts me on a hot summer day. It's refreshing without being overwhelming, I guess
I don't like the regular, but the Extreme is divine!
I will try Dior Homme as well as the ETROs
I actually own a bottle of CaP; I probably should have mentioned that! It used to be a favorite, but somewhere along the line it started reminding me more and more of laundry. I own a sample of ST as well and really enjoy it, but not enough to buy in full bottle form, though it works excellently during the Fall season.
Oh! And I've tried Fracas too; it's great and v sexy, but not for me (a little heady).
mybeautyblog, how are you enjoying the Semiotics program? I've yet to officially start, but it sounded interesting so I picked it over the summer.
Thanks for the recs! The only one I've tried so far is the Passage d'Enfer, which I liked, but maybe more on somebody else than me (probably somebody hipper). I'll look forward to sampling the rest of the list, especially the CdGs as I haven't sampled any yet!
I really want to try the ISM; I'll try to search around online for it. It's so frustrating when scents are region-limited…
And that's a long list! *rubs hands with anticipatory glee* I absolutely can't wait. I've tried the EL Private Collection and I love it in the bottle, but it turns rather yucky on my skin, own the La Chasse aux Papillons, and have also sampled Beyond Love (lovely but just not quite there somehow), Fracas (a little heady), and Carnal Flower (same as Fracas). SL Clair de Musc was very pretty too, but I think it may be slightly powdery for me, though I remember liking it a great deal. I'll work on the rest of the list from now on!
Eric describes them perfectly
I actually quite like Daisy, but half the people I know own/wear it, so it's off the table for me, I guess.
I'll take a closer look at the Diors; I sometimes sniff them when I'm at the department store, but since they don't give out samples, it's sometimes hard to try them properly. Which is a shame, because I know they deserve more of my attention.
Thanks for the Chanel recs! I'll try to drop by my local boutique (though the SAs are rather unfriendly) and sample the Les Exclusifs. I've tried some before, but I felt rather silly there with the stone-faced SAs all glaring snottily at me, so I didn't spend as much time as I wanted. Now I have something to focus on!
I'll try to get my hands on the Sonoma, too
“Sienna Musk” is a pretty name.
Thanks for the recs! Actually, I own Diorissimo, and it's one of my favorite scents, but it's been a while since I've worn it. I've also tried out both Bond No.9's; the Fire Island is a bit sweet/heady for my tastes, and the Silver Factory, while very cool and interesting, doesn't suit me on a regular day, either (I love its crisp metallic sting, though). I think I've tried the Japan Noir too, but can't really remember it too well. I'm especially looking forward to trying the Etat Libre d’Orange Jasmin et Cigarette – just the name sounds fabulous!
Hi Borhane,
Yes, it's definitely easier to be stingy with money when you're a poor student =/ I'm not in Montreal, but thanks for the offer; I'm trying Dior Homme for sure the next time I hit the stores. I've always wanted to try Dzongkha and Timbuktu, so I will get on those immediately as well, and you make the Parfums de Nicolai sound like a real dream (mmm… swirling and intoxicating…)
I'm certainly willing to shell out for a FM if it is so stunning, and since I like slightly boozy openings, I think Noir Epices may be a winner.
Thank you for your wonderful descriptions! I think I'm feeling rather inspired now… I can almost smell these from my laptop and now cannot wait to smell them in person!
Thanks for the recs! Seems like the Apres Mousson would suit me, so Hermes will be one of my first stops
And I've tried Voleur de Roses – oh-so-lovely, and I thought I would adore it, but after awhile it tends to get… medicinal on me as colder roses always do (I have the same problem with FM Une Rose).
Thanks Farah! I'd love to try a more grown-up green tea note (I like Bvlgari, but it's a little pale).
Nope, nobody mentioned them before you! I haven't tried the former, but own a sample of the latter. It's great for Fall nights, but I don't quite love it enough to get a full bottle, though it is very good.
The Apres la Mousson sounds like it'd be right up my alley – I think you're the fourth to suggest it, so it's number one on my must-try list. I think it sounds like it would be a perfect everyday summer scent, even without the florals (which admittedly I like, but don't need need). I looked at the Hiris bottle and it is absolutely divine, so that's another one I'm now salivating to try over. Thanks for the recs!
As for Iris Nobile – this one sounds so perfect on paper for me, because I like orange blossom, too! Yet somehow… my nose reacts badly to it. I don't think it's too 'sharp', but it reminds me a little of, well, urine (to simply be blunt) and I have no idea why, as I'm probably the only one. I had a sample of it and wore it out a few times and was complimented on it, but just can't reconcile my taste to it, I guess.
From a man's pov….
stay with Coco Mademoiselle (if you feel comfortable with it) !!!
Otherwise….maybe Miss Dior ?!?
Valentino Gold
Etro Sandalo
Shiseido Zen (2007 edition)
Isabel Derroisne Ame Toscane (perfume)
Bandit
Have you tried Calandre?
I'm always happy to plug Bois d'Iris yet again, so another vote for that.
I also think Lutens Cèdre is an interesting tuberose fragrance.
My favorite “cold vibe” comes from CdG Incense Zagorsk, which is also said to have an iris note (although one that I don't — or barely — detect).
I would recommend:
Tuberose Criminelle (As a fellow tuberose lover who didnt love Fracas, Beyond love, or Carnal Flower- the latter two remind me of the tuberose absolute/concrete rather than the flower itself..TC on the other hand seems to capture the coldness and lushness of tuberoses..ok..I will stop gushing..:))
Iris Poudre- It was a little sweet but very likeable..quite classically beautiful
Serge Lutens Un Lys – gorgeous warm lillies
Ellie- just sampled it and it is lovely- not as heady as Un Lys but also with much lesser lasting power and sillage
Montale Red Aoud- if you like saffron you should try this- if you haven't aleady (as well as saffron troublant)..this is also a little on the sweeter side, but quite pretty and not as foody as the ST
CdG Champaca- very true to the flower (but also a little too expensive)
Caron Aimez Moi- If you can like/can tolerate anise…
for me- most of the time this scent does have a 'cold vibe' (because of the anise, I think)but it sometimes smells warm on my skin..the trick may lie in how much is sprayed..
Serge Lutens – Fleurs D'oranger..I really like this one too- the drydown on my skin is gorgeous…very cool, breezy but with depth- if that makes sense..:)
phew! that was long- hope it is helpful..
Also, you have to try POTL Amaze- I am loving it..the EDT is a jammy, yummy,slightly dark rose on my skin- I feel like drinking it..lol (the parfum is slightly boozier)
I have been feeling somewhat down tonight and your enthusiasm makes me smile! big thanks to you too!
Why not L'Artisan Dzongkha, which has iris and (to me) a really cold vibe?
Yeah, that was another reason I gave up Daisy; it's not nearly as interesting when everyone you know has a bottle.
@chantelle: semiotics: I study culture science (not cultural studies) and I did art semiotic and computer semiotic. beeing a blogger myself, the structure and the sphere themes are evry interesting. peirce is the first one to start with and all the other classics like cassirer and juri lotmann. it is a fascinating mind-blowing stuff, very logical and transcendental though.
imho the scent you are looking for evokes this kind of mixture that sigh theory brings – not dualism, but triadic structure.
I have to stress out once again that the jardin mousson (the new hermès) would fit gorgious somehow. do you wear clear, bright colors (winter type we call it)? then hiris fits also well. and hemrès is nearly affordable, so you can get two;-)
Her tastes seem a bit similar to me (although I absolutely loved L'Eau d'hiver) I 2nd Hiris and the above mentioned Passage D'Enfer, Chanel No 19 and Black Cashmere. I actually find Timbuktu a cold fragrance but I know others dont. On saffron, since other's have already mentioned Safran Troublant, I'm thinking Idole might be worth a try. And what about TM's Alien for another one with a cold vibe?
just to add, I know she doesn't like fruity florals and so do I but I liked Guerlain Insolence so that's another suggestion..
Adam, ad saffron in perfume, try Black tie by Washington Tremlet. It is delicious on the skin! female or male (my 13 year old above average scent-sesitive son thinkt it smells fantastic)
and black tie is not necessary.. 
Apres L'Ondee or Chanel La Pausa would be my iris recs. I find Iris Silver Mist too cruel/metallic for some reason. Apres L'Ondee isn't even that horribly expensive for a Guerlain as I recall – around the 90 euro mark over here.
No wonder you love it – you ARE it! : )
That fits the cold/medicinal/austere vibe – I was wearing that yesterday and there is a dark, herbally undertone to it. I didn't love it, but I certainly admired it.
Thank you!
If you liked Elizabeth Arden there is 5th avenue After Dark that has all the notes you love, and it's not expensive. Dzing! by L'Artisan also has a lot of notes you like..but the rest of it's notes scares the zing out of me. Hope you find it. I still can't find the one that makes me want to keep smelling myself all day…off and on of course.
-joy,
Becca